yep also dont get used to a 7kg spring those springers can make stock darts hit hard with the ar bored out.a heavier dart will fly straighter and wont be blown around by wind as much as a lighter/smaller one, but see how long you can shoot massively heavy darts at people until they get real upset
we dont use slurs here, we're PC as fuck
- NerfHaven
- → Lunas's Content
Lunas's Content
There have been 138 items by Lunas (Search limited from 27-December 96)
#346938 Accuracy mods
Posted by Lunas on 26 May 2015 - 01:14 AM in Modifications
#346919 Accuracy mods
Posted by Lunas on 24 May 2015 - 04:29 PM in Modifications
Darts you run into allowable vs not allowable and you have to worry about getting yours back at the end. So that leaves the barrel you can brass them and it helps but can decrease ranges...
i believe koush darts are allowed and also fix most of what causes the issues with nerf but you will probably loose alot of them.
modding the darts you can make nerf darts better by filling the tips with hot glue but this may not be allowed also reduces the range on them.
#346786 Rapidstrike Flywheel bogs
Posted by Lunas on 16 May 2015 - 03:37 AM in Modifications
another thing to do is to remove that white rubber flappy thing over the dart entrance i was getting jams with mine until i ripped that shit out.Alright I just swapped the yellow wire over and double checked my motors, they are running super fast now. My original intention was to make the gun quieter, but seeing how powerful it is now... I kinda like the roar
and as for quiet the only quiet flywheel is a stopped flywheel look into motor breaking to make them stop faster then work on spin up time it should already be super short with what you have already done.
also since you got rm2 did you C-Mod them as in did you replace the stock low voltage brushes with the upgraded silver carbon brushes.
#346776 Rapidstrike Flywheel bogs
Posted by Lunas on 15 May 2015 - 05:28 PM in Modifications
yes it just bypasses the circuit. That alone might fix the issue you are having. While in there i would also remove both thermal fuses as they bleed off some juice too. You also may want to switch to NiMHI found this on another modding website "De-solder the left end of the yellow wire from where it is and solder it back on top of the red wire that comes in from the positive battery. This will disable the mechanism that causes the flywheels to be slow at first." -Rexar5 humanvszombies.org
is that basically a way of bypassing those diodes?
#346759 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement
Posted by Lunas on 14 May 2015 - 11:18 PM in Modifications
Umm no alkaline can not provide more current than imr.Did you even see what he said? Imr's cost 14 euro's where he lives for just a pack of 2. Then you also have to add a special charger to that.
I recommended 8 AA's because they are cheap and accessible. In Addition, the current from 8 AA"s is greater than 2 Imr's, which will lead to greater performance and less damage to the motors.
Alkaline can at most do 3 amps but most can only do 2.5A and they last 40 minutes tops so piss through those batteries like water and how long does it take to burn 14 euro in alkaline.
NiMh can do 5 amp discharges and last for 2.1 Ah so at 2 amp discharge you get maybe an hour.
IMR 10-60A depends on grade and size of cell most 14500 do 10A.
Now 8 AA in series is 12v the stock motors were rated for 6v we over volt them at a cost to life at a given voltage the stall current increases. It does not matter if it is an imr or if it is alkaline 12v will kill those motors just as well from either source.
http://www.amazon.de...rds=efest 14500
9.90 eur
http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore d4
charger does li-mn, NiMh, LiFE, li-ion, NiCD
or
http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore i2
#346809 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement
Posted by Lunas on 17 May 2015 - 04:21 PM in Modifications
the links i gave were for amazon in germany... 9.90 euro for a pair of imr you only really need 2 and a bypass for the other 2 cells you can run 3 safely 4 will burn out the motors.Thanks for your very detailed feedback. Luckily I had a soldering iron and already took out all the junk from the inside of the blaster. Unfortunately your ebay seller doesn't ship to Germany I,ll try to solder the battery holder in place and feed the wires through the back of the stock mount, so that I'm able to close the original battery holder again. I will also mount the new battery holder with something more durable. I don't play that often (2-4 hours a week) so the alkalines should last relatively long. In fact 4 of the 6 batteries that I'm currently using are still the ones that I put in when I bought the blaster about 4 months ago, so they should still be cheaper and if I really need to I can still swap them for IMRs.
Have a good day!
and the same charger for li-ions works with imr.
#348546 OMW problems
Posted by Lunas on 27 August 2015 - 07:34 PM in Modifications
I have the #1 and #2 kit on my retaliator did you use the supplied spring for the catch or the old spring. The supplied spring is of a higher strength than the old spring. I also suggest going with the 5kg spring vs the 7kg spring that comes with the 3rd stage kit. The 7kg does not improve it that much over the 5kg just makes it much much harder to prime.Can the Catch move freely? Also, Is the prime-length correct and and is is pushing the plunger all the way back to meet the catch?
#348569 OMW problems
Posted by Lunas on 28 August 2015 - 07:23 PM in Modifications
yes but it also makes the blaster alot harder to prime.IIRC from a Drac video, the 7kg spring is required to drive the stage 3 extended barrel (it induces too much barrel drag otherwise).
Also about that extended barrel it sucks the attachment point it has is a slight upgrade but the barrel itself sucks if memory serves omw went back and tweaked it to be bigger around so it caused less drag... I felt this was a shame as i liked the look of the stage 3 kit but when i found out the drawbacks and that the 7kg spring + the barrel ended up with worse ranges and speeds than stage 1 and 2 i decided not to bother with stage 3... And guess what i don't have any issues with my retaliator lockup all locks removed and it works perfectly it is gathering dust as i have moved onto a stryfe and rapid strike but my advise to solve the lock up issues is unscrew the barrel and use the 5kg spring after making sure the trigger and catch springs are the upgraded ones and did not slip out of place...
If you absolutely need to use the extended barrel i suggest brassing it make sure you get big enough brass. To widen the barrel a dowel with a piece of sand paper wrapped around it then chucked in a drill will make short work of opening it up then push a brass 7/16 size tube down it if it ends up too loose you can glue it but it should fit so snugly it wont need anything. It will be wider and it should solve the issue with the barrel reducing the distance and speed.
#363003 Cheap Mods?
Posted by Lunas on 14 May 2018 - 02:34 PM in Modifications
A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.
Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.
It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.
If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.
I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.
My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.
#364616 Cheap Mods?
Posted by Lunas on 10 December 2020 - 05:01 PM in Modifications
14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.
A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.
Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.
im a bit late on my reply but...
when I rewired to remove locks i had enough wire in the stock wiring to double up and omit the locks bigger NEW wire is better but worked in a pinch. As for how much power li-mn can provide... 6.5 A and 9.8amp in a burst vs the 3A burst the stock motors pull...you need 2 that is 14 dollars it used to be A LOT easier at the time of my post to buy these batteries. But still 26650 which fit in a rapidstrike tray with modification and a spacer will deliver 30A constant... Now as for the mod to use 26650 in a rapidstrike two balls of aluminum foil on the springs to space forward the 26650 and you are good. 7.4v is not enough of a over volt from the 6v it is stock that the gun is not very functional. From there you can get into more in depth mods but 10$ for a pair of IMR batteries and .20 cents of foil get you started.
#349295 Has anyone seen this yet?
Posted by Lunas on 24 October 2015 - 04:34 PM in Modifications
To do this mod from what i see the most difficult part is to rewire the blaster your going to gut the stock wire and put a connector up in the battery area or mod the battery area to use IMR batteries but since there is more to it we will go with a 3s lipo for about 12v stock motors should work fine after you clean up the wires.
First cut all the old wires out they wont be needed you will need a spool of 18 or 16 AWG i recommend stranded and in a soft silicon insulation rather than harder pvc they are about 6-10 Bucks for 6ft of black and red wire.
The wiring will go as follows:
red from battery to switch rev switch likely the center post the other posts one is for open position being closed the other likely the used one is for push to close at least most of the nerf switches are like this.
then red from other side of rev switch to the motors and fan
black from battery to motors and fan
The blower on the top of the hopper is to push the balls through the system it needs to be able to push air out the barrel hopper needs a close to air tight cap to build positive pressure behind the balls. To do a full auto mod a part needs to be removed and a small bit needs to be cut this can be done with a pair of wire clippers or even a sharp hobby knife or the dremel.
#349288 Has anyone seen this yet?
Posted by Lunas on 24 October 2015 - 02:55 AM in Modifications
zeus blaster @ $50 each
the clear tube is gonna be more expensive and not available to me it is about 24 per 6 ft section it would take about 4.5ft per blaster
4 90* elbows per blaster 4 dollars
1 t section 1 dollar
1 cap for t section 1 dollar
$5 the fan https://www.sparkfun.../products/11270
from there the full auto mod is free
the rewire and lipo 15 dollars in materials
So each blaster is about 102 in materials
the labor is not that hard but... time consuming i would say about an hour per kinda unfair to ask this to be done at cost.
tools needed:
screwdriver
soldering iron
needle nose pliers
saw or dremmel
glue
#349020 Need advice on a Rapidstrike mod
Posted by Lunas on 10 October 2015 - 04:10 PM in Modifications
he may wish to go with a 6 battery tray 12v will probably trip the thermistor... 9v will give it some punch not burn the motors as fast but using alkaline or NiMH will have a shorter run time than Lipo or li-mnYea, just put an 8 AA battery tray in the normal battery slot. It ups voltage a bit, but it gives so much more current than trustfires.
i run with 2 IMR 18650 if i was doing it over i would probably still go that route. But 26650 would fit in the tray too you just need to put a 1 inch spacer on the batteries. The charger is not that special a nitecore d4 and it will charge any li-ion and NiMH and NiCd and LiFePSO4
#349162 Need advice on a Rapidstrike mod
Posted by Lunas on 17 October 2015 - 08:11 PM in Modifications
hypothetically if it was only the pusher it would be fine but yes drop any notion of using a 9v. If you put a 6AA snap box in though you can toss 6 NiMH in and those are good for around 5 Amps unless you pick up a pack those can be good for much much more. A single 9 volt will make the motors sound unruly but they will bog and jam easier if you stick 2 26650 in the stock tray and put some sort of spacer in it should only need 1 inch mod done.Do not use a 9V battery. It cannot supply as much amperage or last long enough to be efficient. Use instead the AA battery tray as previously suggested.
This is what you find in most 9v batteries, not good. A 9v is perfectly adequate for purposes such as running LEDs, but NOT for providing the power that blaster motors need to function.
http://www.amazon.co...p_prd_ttl_sol_7
just need something just wide enough to fill in on either end it would be about 1 inch the gun itself can be left unmodded...
charge it
#346199 Super loud flywheels
Posted by Lunas on 15 April 2015 - 11:47 PM in Modifications
#346720 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement
Posted by Lunas on 13 May 2015 - 09:55 PM in Modifications
My stryfe shoots 50-70ft flat with 2 imr and full rewire. With that many AA you might as well jump to imr you will go through that many AA while playing.If I were you, I would boost the number of AA's to 8. This will lead to 12 volts, and a fair amount of current. From my experience, stryfe motors can handle a pretty decent amount of current, but totally fry if you get higher than 16 volts running through them.
Also, I would coat the flywheels in something. What I do is wrap them tightly in electrical tape in direction that the flywheels spin. After the wrap, I use a hair dryer on the highest setting to warm up the electrical tape. It is crucial that the tape is wrapped in a way that when the flywheels spin, the seam that the tape makes is not able to be peeled back.
#346171 Super loud flywheels
Posted by Lunas on 14 April 2015 - 07:19 PM in Modifications
#344115 Questions on the Nerf N-Strike Elite Stryfe
Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 09:42 PM in Modifications
#344103 Questions on the Nerf N-Strike Elite Stryfe
Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 03:34 PM in Modifications
#344092 Absolved Demolisher
Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 10:54 AM in Modifications
i saw a mod where they teflon wrapped the piston 4 times and put a thicker o ring in his demo and got his missiles to go 45 ft his he also showed all of the compression was in the last inch of the launcher.I've got no idea how far the single goes. The quad shells are much more useful.
And I only lubed up the launcher piston. Nothing else.
#344074 Absolved Demolisher
Posted by Lunas on 08 January 2015 - 08:56 PM in Modifications
how far does the single go and did you do anything to the launcher pistonVideos I can not make. With a quad shot it is easy to get 30 feet of distance...with about as much spread as a standard width door.
The spread is going to be pretty dependent on how you make your shells. Where you point the barrels determines where they go. I made all mine as straight as possible.
EDIT: I am also bumping as I have added a list of all the mods I've done to this baby.
#349221 Rapidstrike Dart Issues
Posted by Lunas on 21 October 2015 - 03:43 AM in Modifications
#343145 Rapidstrike motors and rough cut gears
Posted by Lunas on 27 November 2014 - 01:45 AM in Off Topic
yes but not as well as a lipo pack the 180s tend to pull a bit more stall amps than IMR provide the stock motors are not so bad with 2 IMR i tossed 2 IMR 18650 in my battery tray the gun is a whole new beast and the balance it toward the center rather than forward. Mind you mine is stock.So would those motors work with IMRs or trust fires?
There are a lot of threads on motors it uses the same motors as the stryfe ANY 130 size will fit in the stock spot the pusher motor can be replaced with out modding the shell with a 180 you need to mod the pusher tray. Honestly i want to put a brushless set in mine Mainly due to liking the start up sound some make just think you are getting ready and it is time to start so you flip the master on deet deet doo deet then those motor sounds...
#349246 Rapidstrike Dart Issues
Posted by Lunas on 22 October 2015 - 10:17 PM in Modifications
Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...
My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.
Or replace both flywheel motors.
#343918 Strongarm Malfunction
Posted by Lunas on 04 January 2015 - 09:49 PM in General Nerf
sounds like dart wear you might want to check the foam pad on the plunger if it is damaged or worn that is the seal that hits the cylinder and makes the seal to fire the dart. that spring might be weak or broken.Update:
I found out that its never the same barrel that doesnt shoot as far. Sometimes the gun fired 6/6 nicely, other times its a 5/6, and other times its a low 3/6 or 2/6. Any way i can avoid this?
#348545 How To Choose The Best Nerf Gun For A Small Child. ?
Posted by Lunas on 27 August 2015 - 07:29 PM in General Nerf
Younger than that i would say a jolt small enough for them easy enough to prime it front loads. The fire strike might be a bit difficult for some younger kids and prone to breaking the priming handle...
#344118 Mod/integration Concept: "Longstryfe"
Posted by Lunas on 09 January 2015 - 10:38 PM in Modifications
#346455 Question on batteries for my stryfe
Posted by Lunas on 28 April 2015 - 12:46 PM in Modifications
but that simply is not true it will reduce the number of rechargeable for other devices that are used in your household that would make better use of the low amperage low voltage batteries... Also NiMH go bad just like every other chemistry you will burn them out quicker than the devices currently using them.I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.
there is no getting around the fact that NiMH AA batteries are not the optimal cell for this application Li-MN lasts longer preforms better and is over all better served in this case and lipo is even better...
if you absolutely must use the 1.2v NiMH batteries then i recommend a motor swap rather than strapping more cells onto your rig...
plasma dash or mach dash they are meant to run off 3-4.5v that would be the better option vs strapping a battery holder and cutting the end plate in half in the gun and connecting the extra holder to extend the battery bay by 2
#341413 Retaliator Hard Prime Issue
Posted by Lunas on 21 August 2014 - 07:17 AM in Modifications
What i would do is grease it up to see if it helps if it solves the issue great if not i would say that you removed too much dead space you could trim down the hot glue slowly until the issue gets fixed.
Just remember that without the AR dry fires are not recommended they will break parts.
#343030 retaliator problems
Posted by Lunas on 23 November 2014 - 07:37 PM in Modifications
Well there are two locks involved one in-front of the trigger next to the mag lock and one on the bolt sled itself i removed both from mine and i have no issues you can tell if you are primed by the feel of the trigger too it will feel heavier than non primed with no locks...alright thanks for that.
the plunger tube may be in upside down that is really the only way the lock on the bolt sled can malfunction
#342901 moding help
Posted by Lunas on 18 November 2014 - 09:57 PM in Modifications
yes it is somewhat common Self sticking craft foam is typical it does help plunger life and makes it a bit quieter... If you filled the plunger head with hot glue first some dead space would be removed too.I have recently modified some of my blasters, the mods include AR and lock removal and I was wondering if it is a good idea to put felt pads on the plunger head in order to make the blaster a bit quieter and safer to dry fire. if any one has any info on this topic what so ever please reply. thank you.
#346444 Question on batteries for my stryfe
Posted by Lunas on 27 April 2015 - 12:43 PM in Modifications
if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...
#345388 Stryfe Batteries Heating Up!?
Posted by Lunas on 07 March 2015 - 03:10 AM in Modifications
When higher than normal current is drawn the protection shuts down the cell that cell that is not taking a charge either got discharged below or tripped the circuit. If you must go up to at least imr batteries they will be better off than the ultrafires which i would dispose of at this point or store them in a fire proof box. It sounds like the op over discharged them.The protection PCB should keep them safe. That's kind of the entire reason it's there.
That said, ultrafires are very unfit for this purpose. A brief google search fails to find their official safe discharge rate. Similar li-ion cells are rated to about 1-2C, which means these can really only deliver about 1A continuous. Those motors ask for 2.8-3.8A at 2.4-3.0V. You're feeding them 11.1V, so they're actually probably drawing somewhere in the ballpark of 10A or more at times. This is for one motor, you're driving two, so double that. 20A is something that even unprotected ultrafire 14500s will never, ever be able to do unless you run something like 10 or 15 of them in parallel.
Ultrafires and their cousin trustfires have their place, but driving motors is not it. Feeding 11.1V to motors rated for 3 is not a good place to be either. Sure, the Tamiyas might be able to handle it, but I'd be very careful. What you really should do is get a 1S (lithium) or 3cell (nickel) battery pack that can deliver enough current.
So back to the beginning question. Are your batteries safe? I'd say probably, but you're abusing the hell out of them, and I'm really not sure how the protection PCB will react.
The best option would be a lipo 1s with the highest amperage he could find. Next a single purple efest 18650 30A. after that efest v2 14500 if possible 2 in parallel i have been toying with the idea of reworking my stryfe's battery box to have 2p2s efest 14500 v2 also i would recommend a voltage monitor addition to prevent over discharge in the future.
#343796 Trustfire IMR Batteries?!?!
Posted by Lunas on 31 December 2014 - 06:55 PM in Modifications
Buy the purple efest and mod for 18650 size or the 14500 red v2 they do about 10A the purple do 30A-60A though finding them in 14500 has been not fun. Also the eBay auction listed those at aaa size or 10440. Either the lister has a typo or he knows nothing about batteries.
#345379 Best Efest IMR Battery?
Posted by Lunas on 06 March 2015 - 07:54 PM in Modifications
the v1 red efests do around 2 amps so make sure you get v2.
I made my own dummies out of paper and wire and wood glue...
#348810 18 Dart Magazine Spring
Posted by Lunas on 22 September 2015 - 06:26 PM in General Nerf
as far as i know there is no replacements or alternates for standard darts only stefans. you can try using some talc on the mag as the issue is the rubber part catching on the smooth plastic.Hello! I'm brand new to this wonderful world of Nerf and I just finished modding my first Stryfe to take out all of he locks and upgrade the junk wire. At first, all was well, but I noticed after a short time that my gun was jamming... a lot. It seems that the springs in the 18 dart N-Strike Elite magazines are a known issue and I seem to have some really bad ones. Even just a few hours loaded and they're not springing back to lift the next dart into place. I was using fresh darts and they had been loaded maybe an hour or two in advance of the game. Most of my jamming started in the early afternoon/evening when they had been loaded for about 6-8 hours.
My question is in two parts:
1. Is there a way to modify this spring to be more "springy" to stop this from happening again?
or
2. Is there a better brand of knock-off magazines that doesn't have this issue? I've been looking at the Taobao or Blasterparts banana magazines. Is one of these more reliable? I don't really want to run stock Nerf 12's, but if that's the best answer - let me know.
Thank you!
#348812 18 Dart Magazine Spring
Posted by Lunas on 22 September 2015 - 10:21 PM in General Nerf
that is what causes the issue if you stick only 17 or 15 in the clips have less issue. Also make sure you get them loaded in the middle so they don't touch the front or back of the clip banging the back side of the clip to keep the tacky rubber from touching the front has helped prevent jams in mine. The only other way to fix this that I can think of is to lightly sand inside the front and back of the clip so it is textured rather than smooth so the darts don't get traction on the plastic.Since you can typically squeeze 19-20 darts in an 18 round mag, try moving the bottom of the spring up with a small spacer to add some pre-compression.
http://black-tactica...azine-v2-p-3343 these are the only alternative i know of.
#343874 Usable Dimensions for Rapidstrike tray
Posted by Lunas on 03 January 2015 - 07:49 PM in Off Topic
Ill redo my measurements later tonight and repost but those are the numbers i remember from when i measured mine. you do get a bit more room by dropping the tray and just using the front. But I like to keep my nerf guns semi stock and would like to if i have to drop back to stock.
#348109 Rapidstrike Batteries
Posted by Lunas on 28 July 2015 - 07:09 PM in Modifications
alternately the lipo pack would also fit all you do is remove 2 screws from the stock tray the front plate comes off and you then shove the lipo in the stock area and put the plate back...
- NerfHaven
- → Lunas's Content
- Terms of Service and Privacy Policy
- Code of Conduct ·