I put some Mach Dash Pros in my Stryfe. I like these a lot better. Only 3 bucks, too!
Almost no heat generated in the bushings. I can't feel any, TBH.
Current draw is a bit greater, haven't measured yet.
Range is at least 10 feet greater than before.

Mach Dash Pros are double axle motors, so you'll have to cut one side down. The RPM is higher, and I'd like to think torque is higher since it was designed to be a double axle motor haha.

Sorry for the necro, but I would like to know if 3 AA nimh batteries would provide enough current to run the motors. I'm planning on putting these in my rapidstrike.

No idea, It's very hard to find discharge rates on NiMH batteries. The mod on the nerf reddit has done it using eneloops, and the spin up time isn't great. Try using 6 - 3 in series paralleled with another 3 in series.

Lithium batteries from a laptop are not high discharge, though. Just FYI.

Yes, and as we know, sound = performance.

I haven't tried it myself, but it sounds like an awful idea. Please let me know how spin up time is, or how long the batteries last.

Running 180s at lower voltages and lower currents will likely result in a blaster that will work only well as stock or so, I would think. Spin up times might even be slower.

Very nice. Nerf made some good improvements to the Maverick design, like the improved seal.

What kind of spring looks like a good replacement for the stock one?

Short darts require less FBR to make, are easier to handle, are easier to load, and you can fit more of them into a tube magazine. Homemade darts were originally the same length as stock darts, but over the years people have made them shorter and shorter as it has become clear that the extra length was not really contributing all that much to accuracy.

Ah yes, capacity is another point, of course.

I think there's a reason why drag has become less of an issue, in that a dart head now is significantly a greater amount of mass compared to the dart itself, especially since it's shorter, so the forward vector is much more dominant than any other direction.

I was thinking, dart length is one of the reasons streamlines/elites fishtail at long ranges, right? So would cutting off the bottom half of the dart and just using the half with the head on it increase performance in non-clipped blasters such as the crossfire, strongarm, or triad? If this is completely wrong, well, shows how little I know about how darts work. Thanks,

The Dart Blaster

I'm pretty sure I'm still drunk but actually the main reason for unstable dart flight is that there isn't enough forward focused weight in elite dart. Dart length only contributes to drag, but if you have a dart with stock length, but with more weight in the tip, I'm pretty sure flight will be stable.

It's not about making stefans, I'm saying that dart length is not the sole reason why a projectile gets increased performance. We use shorter darts because they have less drag, but they won't be more accurate. They may fly a bit further, though. It's a tradeoff, I would think, because darts are drag stabilized.

You could always make your own.
http://modworks.blog...t-clip-mod.html

Here's a useful thread for you:
http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=21429
The second post is what I think you'd find interesting.

You'll want to bypass the thermistor and remove the protected PCB from the trustfires. It's quite easy. Carefully cut the label off, and peel away that plastic cover. You'll see a PCB pad on the flat side. Just rip it off.
I order the wrong kind of Trustfire for testing, and had to do that.


The reason being that at stall, for heavy spring loads, the Stampede will ask for a lot of current. Protection circuits severely limit the burst current a battery can provide. Just don't over discharge your battery (installing a voltmeter can help with this. I'll be posting a guide at some point with some electronic blaster accessories like that.) and it will be safe.
Thermistors also limit the current flow, increasing their resistance as greater and greater currents travel through them, as heat dissipation of power causes them to increase in resistance. This chokes your current flow.

Motors pull a lot of current when working to the max of their torque, like when you start one up. This is called stall current.


Your blaster sounds like it's working, but then the thermistor kicks in and limits the current flow to the motors.

Ya, that was the final straw for mine to work on 16.8V.

Keola, you don't need to reduce the spring load. Should be fine once the current is flowing properly.

And when I mentioned the voltmeter, I meant a simple LED one from eBay. Costs like 5 bucks, and is powered by the device it is measuring.

Unprotected trustfires, right? Did you remove the thermistor? I forget where it's located though.

I'm running my Stampede with a 16.8v LiPo battery, using an 9kg SGNerf spring and a stock retaliator spring. Used a stronger catch spring, too. Catch return spring or whatever was fine. Make sure all your springs are aligned correctly.
I still ended up getting bump fire or runaway stampede syndrome or whatever.
I ended up shaving a mm or two off the top of the white piece that moves. This prevented it from bouncing onto the trigger switch. Just keep shaving off tiny amounts, you want to take off the minimum amount necessary. Sand, then test. Rinse, repeat.

Did you cut down that spring? How is the compressed size of that thing even catching haha.

Your white pin spring replacement is the a different solution to the same problem I had. The white think needs to catch on the bolt as late as possible. With the weak spring, or with how tall it is, it catches on the bolt far too easily.

I run 7.2v 3300 mA with a full rewire. It already stings ad has great range, and the motors smell of ozone after 20 seconds of revving. Although there was a factory-blown capacitor and a broken lead, so my motors might be shit as well. I would say that 9.6v would burn out your motors fairly quickly. Are you rewiring, removing thermistors, improving switches, etc?
Also, NiMH > NiCD.
EDIT: Amps don't matter. Motors will only 'ask' for as much as they can handle. Voltage is force-fed.
Edit 2: Are you wiring to supply 9.6v and 1000 mA to each motor, or 4.8v and 2000 mA to each?

Well, mAH matter for figuring out max discharge current.
And motors only ask for what they need, but as you increase voltage, they ask for more.

I know that people have run their Rapidstrikes at 3s, but the push motor is can move fast at that speed. Using diodes to drop it down is a nice idea.

Does anyone know where to buy this? I used to get it from FunkyMotherFacko, but he's no longer active.
I like it, as it has a slightly looser ID than normal CPVC, and seems more consistent in terms of QC.

I believe it has the same dimensions as "clear cpvc" on mcmaster.

I keep on forgetting about that. I remember I experimented with the polyester one, I'll measure the ID to see if it compares. I have been meaning to order the butyrate to try it out.

Oh yeah, I forgot to follow up on this. I bought the butyrate a little while ago, and I'm pretty happy with it. I think it'll do, in place of the redline.

Do you think you could show us what the final product looks like? I know these are just files, but I'm sure you had to test them out and make them.

Do a search for his threads, he used to sell them.

These look really cool, hope to use one soon.

Discussing the technique is discussing the mod. His details reveal a lot about what was done here. So for this application, the torch was overkill. Anyone who wants to try your technique and verify it can use a soldering iron, if they use the same materials.

I don't know how well that solder will work, it's hard to say what that tensile strength really refers to. I've used solder of similar composition for electronics, and I can't say I would trust if it didn't have more of a mechanical bond. Like a slot that a rod would fit into, if that makes sense. That's a joint I would trust mechanically, especially to hold up under stress from a different direction.

Hopefully it holds up, but you said it yourself, it's a soft solder.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing

Which isn't soldering.
Look at all the filler metals listed, and then look at solder. It's made of lead/tin, usually. He says he's using silver solder, which usually contains maybe 3% silver.

Solder requires more of a mechanical connection/joint for it to be anything close to trustworthy for putting pressure on.

Solder is not an adhesive. Let me know how well that works out in the long term.

What's the composition? I don't deny that there are legit hard solders out there, but it's important note exactly what you used if others are to use this as a guide.

Depends on what kind of iron, and if you have the right tip. I'm pretty sure mine could. Just turn it up all the way to 900 degrees Fahrenheit. I use a Hakko FX-888.

I use a pair of pliers as a lever. Try to only ever disassemble it once, repeated times will fuck the whole dealie up.

The eraser head darts I made worked pretty well at Armageddon, very soft tips compared to hot glue. I felt some silicon domes, the non cornstarch ones that mysterio made were pretty soft, I didn't mind them at all. The ones that hurt were some old poorly made hot glue domes, and some old slugs made with #8 washers, that were in the community dart bin.

I couldn't get AMIORs to work well in my PETG BBBB, but I'm told that's normal?

The durometer of them is way too hard for our use. Ryan did some testing with these a while back. There are just too many things wrong with them.

What do you think is an optimal durometer? I have seen stuff like this on McMaster, was thinking about checking it out.

With one of roboman's turrets, it's not bad at all.

The reason I wouldn't use short barrels is that it won't be accurate, there'll be a lot of excess muzzle blast. The "unused" air will just throw the dart off course. I say unused because larger barrels are used so that way all the pumped air is used to accelerate a dart.

Not plugging the OPRV, even simply plugging it, but not pumping that much is an easy way to keep ranges normal.

I'm going to throw my hat in the ring on this one, because this is a topic worthy of discussion.

I've been playing HvZ for 5 years now in the midwest. I've played multiple times at Penn State, Bowling Green, Ball State, Purdue, Western Michigan, Ohio University (Athens), and in my hometown at Ohio State.

The rules of each of these regions varies wildly; from simple regulations of "Don't be an idiot" to heavy regulation such as socks and completely stock blasters only.

From all of these years of play, there has never been an issue with the power or "danger" of a blaster used during the game. Singled Titans, +Bows, etc. The only issues I have ever run across are those involving the appearance of a blaster, in which case those blasters were either a.) banned or b.) covered in bright tape to mark them as a toy.

Most of the HvZ community is comprised of college-aged players. These players know how to follow rules and act responsibly.

My point in saying all of this? You don't play HvZ and you don't understand how these rules are quite sound in that niche of the nerfing community. I urge you to consider that next time you deem it necessary to flame a user who is simply informing you of his ruleset.

I understand what you're saying, but Kane brings up a reasonable point, whereas the OP has openly said they don't ban blasters like that. So while you are making a general statement, I believe that in this case, Kane's concerns are not something to be dismissed.

He's not flaming, Kane just always pushes for safety within our hobby and related hobbies. Since when did expressing an opinion becoming flaming?

I think I'll be there, +3.

Nice!

Any chance of a firing video?

This is an idea that someone should really do on a 3D printer.[/img]

It has been done, I suggested it to the AFoN (I believe) store at randomhat.
http://shop.randomhat.net/index.php
I made a post about it on reddit, and they made one. I have two, actually. Bought one, and they sent me a free one to thank me for the idea. :0

By "muzzle blast" i'm assuming you're talking about springers and air-powered blasters...

While firing overvolted Stryfes across an open basketball court I noticed that most of my (almost mint) N-Strike Elite darts would travel straight for about 30 ft. and then abruptly curve off in one direction, almost like a kicked or thrown ball that had some spin on it. Although the inside of the Stryfe barrel is rifled i'm skeptical that this leads to any spin of the dart and the initially straight trajectory tells me that whatever's going on happens to the dart in-flight.

While I have a limited number of Elites at the moment I plan on somehow sealing the holes in a few and testing them. Hell, I might even do a write-up. Unless someone has done it before and I haven't found that post.

EDIT: for completeness

You know, a lot of people complain about Stryfe accuracy, but mine works really well in an area with no wind.

The barrel should never cause spin unless the dart hits it, which, ideally, it should never do.

I'm wondering if with these you could cut off the suction tip and have a solid tip elite. Without an air hole thy might be much more accurate.

EDIT: I think if they are good quality and in fact are more accurate they will be well worth Hasbros time. I know i'll be cleaning out shelves of them.

a test was recently conducted which seemed to suggest that inaccuracy was not greatly influenced by the hole in the dart, and suggested that excess muzzle blast was actually the isue.

I like it, I might do something similar today. Thanks for the inspiration!

To give a different idea to anyone checking out this topic, I replaced one of the supports with an aluminum rod I found lying around.

Very cool, I would be down. for two probably.

We believe it is a combination of dead space and low spring power. The plunger rods are odd and only let a very small tolerance for the width of the spring. So we are experimenting with that.

I think I've using a 5-6kg Swarmfire spring. Anymore is too much for the gearing system, IMO.