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Roughcut - 2x4 to 4x2 Mod + Bottle Cap Slamfire + Speed Loaders, For R


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#1 Ericshelpdesk

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:47 PM

I was inspired by the few stryfe/master keys I've seen to do my first integration, as well as come up with a few mods of my own. Hope this makes for a good first time post.

The Master Key Itself:
My objective was the leave the stryfe completely untouched by the mod and maintain the ability to remove the master key portion without needing to disassemble anything.

Materials Needed: Your favorite nerf glue (I used epoxy).
Tools: A cheap dremel with a cutoff saw and some rough sandpaper to make the final fit perfect.

I took the barrel from my old recon because I haven't purchased a retaliator yet. The barrel itself is completely unmodified aside from being glued to the roughcut and a duct tape spacer added to the back of the barrel shroud to make the connection to the gun super tight and eliminate wobbles. It was attached to the roughcut by filling up the tac rails with epoxy and lining them up. Joining the rails like this made it easy to line it up perfectly straight and square.

Part of my design consideration was that the first finger curve on the roughcut would just kiss the magazine on the stryfe to avoid pinches and making the hand position to pull the trigger feel more natural. If you intend to use this with a drum magazine you will need to remove about another quarter inch of material from the rough cut's handle to accommodate it.


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The cuts made to the top of the shell are larger on the left side of the gun to allow the tactical rail on the bottom of the stryfe just enough room to rotate past and sit snugly against the left side once it's seated. The stryfe's tac rail sits perfectly between the two plungers in the rough cut and doesn't impede firing at all. While you've got it this far, I suggest applying lube to the front of the plate that holds the plungers back (lightly highlighted on the picture). I had issues with the gun refusing to fire the second plunger and it's due to friction here.
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You can see here where the master key is rotating into the stryfe and how little clearance it has.
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The 2X4 to 4X2 mod:
My objective with this mod was to be able to dump foam downrange with a minimum of effort and sound. The gun can now empty all 8 chambers in under a second without compromising range or the integrity of the intelligent AR system.

I'll refer to the chambers as such from this point forward:
(1)(2)
(3)(4)
(5)(6)
(7)(8)

I succeeded in taking the 8 separate chambers in the AR and creating some port holes between 1/3, 2/4, 5/7, and 6/8 to make 4 separate 2 dart chambers. This means that each pull of the trigger/slamfire will fire 2 sets of 2 darts turning the roughcut into a true scatter gun.

Tools: A flat blade screwdriver to pry it apart, a dremel with a barrel shaped grinding head, and an exacto knife for the final detailing.

AR disassembly instructions can be found here: Rough Cut AR/peg removal
While you're in there, you might as well pull the pegs out as well and tape up the holes in chambers 1-4

I found it useful to push here with a screwdriver to get the parts to separate. They are not held together with glue, but are very tightly bound with an airtight tongue and groove system.
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Once you get the AR apart, remove the material down to the yellow lines I've highlighted below. Be very careful with these cuts since making new holes anywhere else here is just going to mess up the AR system. When you're done, use the exacto knife to clean the bottom edges of the AR chambers. Put one of the AR plungers into its slot and move it around to make sure it has perfectly free movement in and out. Failure to do this will result in the ARs getting stuck down and leaving the barrel open without a dart inside it.
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Some of the interesting things about the ranges with this mod:
Make sure to leave darts in chambers 3 and 4, since those are now the gate keepers of chambers 5-8.

Full of darts: Top 4 darts get 45 feet flat, bottom 4 darts get 40 feet flat.
Darts removed from chambers 3 and 4: 6 darts go a variety of short ranges. Not recommended.
Darts only in chambers 3-6: It goes back to the stock ranges of ~55 feet flat firing 2 darts per trigger pull/slamfire.

This means you can even mix and match what you want the gun to do. If you want 3 darts firing at a variety of ranges, you could leave darts out of 1 and 8 to drive those chambers back up to stock range, but still fire 2 more darts at medium range to back up the shot. The entire point of this mod is that the AR remains largely unharmed so that it behaves correctly and predictably, while allowing you to lob lots of foam in a very short period of time.

Bottle Cap Slamfire:
The objective of this mod was to allow me to either use the master key one handed with slamfire, or 2 handed with the trigger and be able to choose on the fly.

Materials needed: A 20 oz or 2 Liter bottle cap, and a twist tie or a zip tie to hold it to the trigger guard.
Tools: Something to punch a hole in the bottle cap.

As you can see below, the bottle cap takes up the whole trigger area and keeps the trigger pulled constantly. Bumping the bottle cap out of the way with your finger allows you to quickly go back to using the trigger. Every master key should have this.
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Roughcut Speed Loaders:
My objective was to be able to reload my roughcut quickly since it now takes less than a second to empty it.

Materials: Foam, cardboard, something that's thin and smashable
Tools: Exacto knife.

I took the barrels of the roughcut and made a template where each barrel is and cut out holes slightly smaller than the streamlines, but slightly bigger than the dart tips. I now have an improved version that uses 2 thin layers of foam that lines up with the barrels much faster. The way this works is you line up the darts and smash the whole thing down. The foam falls away since the holes are bigger than the dart tips.

This is an idea that someone should really do on a 3D printer.

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Edited by Ericshelpdesk, 18 April 2013 - 03:23 PM.

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#2 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 01:18 PM

Great post! Very well written and informative.
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#3 HasreadCoC

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 01:32 PM

Yes, very nice first post. I particularly like the simplicity and optionality or the bottle cap slamfire.
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#4 Exo

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 02:10 PM

Ghetto. Ghetto as fuck. What I don't understand is this whole obsession with using RCs as masterkeys. A rebarreled 4xshot would work much better. Why? Better potential range, shoots 3 at a time, has a much nicer handle, and costs the same as an RC.

Now I'm done bitching opinionatedly. But it's got a lot of new ideas, so I'm glad that you posted this. The bottle cap is ingenious, but it seems very susceptible to Moore's law. Using workout mat foam as a speedloader is also a neat idea. Stupid simple, and you could make a bunch with a mat. I don't think that it should be done on a 3D printer as you suggest, I think the maleability of the foam ensures a good grip on the darts, while also being able to release them easily. All in all, a superb first post.
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#5 DartSlinger

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 03:50 PM

What I don't understand is this whole obsession with using RCs as masterkeys. A rebarreled 4xshot would work much better.

What is this "4xshot" that you speak of?

The bottle cap is ingenious, but it seems very susceptible to Moore's law.

I agree that the bottle cap is ingenious, but how does Moore's Law apply here? Moore's Law states that the number of transistors on integrated circuits doubles every two years. I see no correlation between Nerf and integrated circuits.

This is a really good mod! I really like the way that you can instantly take off the integration. It's great for storage.

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

Stop trying to derail/ruin good threads.

Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 19 April 2013 - 12:55 AM.

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#6 ShaNayNay

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 04:41 PM

What is this "4xshot" that you speak of?


He's referring to the Lanard tripleshot. It shoots three shots per prime and uses a turret. Most people remove the shotgun barrels and turn it into either a four shot or eight shot primary hence the "4x". Its usually referred to as a quadshot instead.


Ghetto. Ghetto as fuck. What I don't understand is this whole obsession with using RCs as masterkeys. A rebarreled 4xshot would work much better. Why? Better potential range, shoots 3 at a time, has a much nicer handle, and costs the same as an RC.


The reason is that they are no longer sold in stores and would look downright ugly and clumsy mounted underneath one, in my opinion of course. If you want people to start using them as masterkeys then make a writeup on it to create awareness.
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#7 Jaynerf176

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 05:08 PM

I find the bottle cap method interesting, but seems like it could fail quite easily. You'd be better off using a zip-tie to hold the trigger back. Or, if you want to get more advanced, you could drill a hole through the shell and trigger, and put a bolt through to keep the trigger from moving.
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#8 Exo

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 05:41 PM

Sorry, not Moore, Murphy (Now I'm not even sure if that's the right one). "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong".
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#9 Ericshelpdesk

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:20 PM

All of that work and people are more impressed that I shoved a bottle cap into the trigger.

I can tell you from experience that even banging on the gun sideways, the cap doesn't want to come out. It takes a deliberate effort (like pushing it out of the way with your finger) to remove it from the slot. The only reason I've got it attached to the trigger guard to begin with is because I didn't want it to get lost when I go to trigger mode. I use the trigger when I want to make a long distance shot quietly without revving up the motors on the stryfe and need some accuracy that the slamfire doesn't give me. I also use the trigger when I want to pop each side off individually. A permanent or semi permanent solution doesn't give me that flexibility. Also, yes, it's Murphy's law you're calling on me, and it only applies if you stop thinking about what you're doing and it either fires or doesn't fire when you expect or don't expect it to, but it has nothing to do with the mod.

If you don't believe me, try it out yourself! It's not like I'm asking you to chop open your gun or craft some special parts to make it work.

The reason the stryfe and roughcut go so well together is because their differences compliment one another. Revving up the motors takes time, so being able to pop off an instant shot while you wait that half a second gives you an edge over other flywheel guns. The ability to fire 2 (or in my case 4) shots at once to help compensate for dart drift adds a degree of accuracy. The way I currently use it is to pull the slide back on the roughcut and use that as my fore grip. In a tight situation all I need to do is slide my hand forward to fire. The ability to front load darts when magazines run low means you can scavenge darts quickly. It's like having a secondary tied straight to your primary that only requires one hand to operate. The size and shape of the two weapons together lend themselves to EASY modification that any kid with a nail file and some duct tape could pull off. What the roughcut lacks in capacity, the stryfe has going for it being mag loaded.

It also looks cool as hell.

Edited by Ericshelpdesk, 18 April 2013 - 06:28 PM.

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#10 Spud Spudoni

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:43 PM

I find the bottle cap method interesting, but seems like it could fail quite easily. You'd be better off using a zip-tie to hold the trigger back. Or, if you want to get more advanced, you could drill a hole through the shell and trigger, and put a bolt through to keep the trigger from moving.


"As you can see below, the bottle cap takes up the whole trigger area and keeps the trigger pulled constantly. Bumping the bottle cap out of the way with your finger allows you to quickly go back to using the trigger."

I really don't see the reason for negative feedback. This is, in a lot of ways, very innovative to a design that has been done so many times. It definitely has me saying "Why didn't I think of that?!," more than just once. Very clean, very cool that you made it removable, and very clever. Major props.
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#11 azrael

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:33 PM

This is an idea that someone should really do on a 3D printer.[/img]

It has been done, I suggested it to the AFoN (I believe) store at randomhat.
http://shop.randomhat.net/index.php
I made a post about it on reddit, and they made one. I have two, actually. Bought one, and they sent me a free one to thank me for the idea. :0
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#12 TheOrk

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 02:44 PM

Hi!

 

I did a very similar thing to my rough cut (seal improvement, spring replacement, sealing the upper barrel holes, your 2x4 conversion, attaching an adapter to fit it under a buzzbee brute). Your 2x4 is working nice, i just cut smaller connections. I can half-pull for 2 at a time, full pull or even slamfire it all in under a second.

 

Whats your latest on the speedloader? Would it work, if you cut the middle and one side with a knife so you could "rip it off" to the side?Speedloader.jpg

Like: plug, rip, done?


Edited by TheOrk, 13 May 2016 - 02:50 PM.

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