I've seen way to much hype over modern firearms. Lets not forget the 1000 yard matches with non-telescopic open sights*. The rifle that accomplished that has the easiest to manufacture of all actions (besides break-barrel) IMO. So why not adapt it to nerf? I have started a few wood mocks, but do plan a fully working steel moving breech block once the scrap yards open. I have also thought of several forms of propulsion and the easiest would be explosive. Not smokeless powder explosive, but more like aerosol or a fuel/air mixture. If ImageShack were working for me, I'd post a paint pic of homemade casings and chamber, but unfortunately it's not. But so far I'm swaying towards a 5/8" chamber and expired 20 ga shotshells, as I already have the equipment to cycle primers in those, and they hold mega stefans nicely . But the primer route is the easiest because of the shape and movement of this style action. For examples on which I'm building off of, the Ruger No. 1 action is close to what I'm trying to accomplish, but a rolling block (Sharps 1874, action open) instead of falling block (Ruger No. 1) will be more durable (and easier) if hand built. However, it will be lighter, and I like everything of mine to be heavy, even though it is impractical. Another falling block (Sharps). I have figured out everything for the rolling block except the safety. The falling block I still am working on getting the block to fall by dropping the outer trigger guard, and safety(s), again. Pics as soon as I get a different way to host them. Stock will be softwood (butt/pistol grip, forend), as I can punch one out in a day.



*Although in Europe they are still popular, same as the US equivalent of NRA Hi-Power matches.

<EDIT> I've found a better way to do this, but it now can use pressurized air, so it may become a combat primary, not a "well this might work" test</EDIT>

How-to: Laser Pointer Leads
Part 2: "Tadpole"

I needed to make a laser pointer have small leads on it so that I could mount it further away from where I wanted the switch. So, I real quick thought of this.

First off, you will need:

• A laser pointer
• A 1/2" CPVC coupler
• A two-way electrical switch
• Two insulated crimp-style connectors which work for your switch*
• Two identical length pieces of 20 AWG electrical wire and a 2.5" length of 20 AWG electrical wire.
• Wire cutter
• Electrical wire insulation stripper
• A 1/16" drill
• A hand drill (preferred), but electric will do
• Very fine needle-nose pliers or a 6" hemostat
• Clear Tape
• Paperboard from a cereal box
• Writing tool, preferably something with a sharp, fine edge.
• Sharp, fine pointed knife, like an Xacto knife with a #11 blade.

*Use butt connectors like these to attach it to a NF's leaf switch. I can do a write-up for specifically the NF if someone wanted, which would allow it to use the AA cells in the NF's grip, and the pointer would still be adjustable.

This is what I did to relocate the switch. I did not move the battery since I didn't have to; however, if you have a battery holder for two AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, don't be afraid to wire it in between the switch and the body of the laser. I'm pretty sure that if you have a holder on hand, you probably don't need my instruction on how to bypass those tw button cells.

1.) Remove both ends of the laser. No picture necessary.

2.) Remove the batteries. Also, carefully remove the sticker on the outside of the laser pointer body. Put the sticker on the coupler so that the rectangle is coplaner with a plane section perpendicular to the bases. Wrap clear tape around the information sticker to keep in in place and ledgible. If you don't remove that sticker, you life will be slightly harder since the coupler will remove it for you later.


3.) Take the back cover of the pointer (the thing which holds the button cells in). Remove any key chain attachment. This is easily done with those pliers/hemostat. Now take your drill and make a 1/16" hole through this back plate. Make it anywhere as long as it goes through. See picture later down in the guide.

4.) Take a battery. Either battery. Now place in on the paperboard and trace it. Good. Now take your knife. Do not cut off a digit in this step. Cut that circle you just made to the best of your abilities. Check to make sure that it fits in the laser pointer by assembling the pointer, putting in both button cells then the paperboard, followed by the cap. More than likely, those cells will be posi-up. Make sure that the pointer does NOT turn on when you press the button. Disassemble the pointer once you make the paperboard cicle fit right. Good job, have a cookie!

5.) Take your drill bit. Make a hole the same place in the paperboard as it is in the battery endcap. Make another hole about 3/16" towards the opposite side of that hole. Make sure that neither of the holes are within 1/32" of the edge of the paperboard. Set it down where you will not lose it.

6.) Take a length of 20ga wire. Thread it through the hole in the battery endcap. Now strip the insulation off of the first 5/16" of wire. Bend it just after the insulation ends to a right angle. Thread the paperboard circle onto it. Now carefully bend the remaing wire into that other hole. If it doesn't fit, remove the paperboard, straighten the wire a bit and strip of a little bit more insulation. You may repeat that process once more after that. Any more and you will have to scrap that piece of wire.

7.) You should have this now:

(shitty photo)
Take the empty laser pointer body. Put it through the 1/2" CPVC coupler, making sure that the button is depressed. Now take a 2.5" (roughly) length of 20ga wire and wrap it around the pointer's body, stuffing it into the coupler. This stabilizes the pointer within the coupler and keeps the button depressed. You should now have this:

(another shitty photo)

10.) Take your other piece of wire. Strip the first 5/16" of insulation off of the wire, Now thread it through the hole on the endcap that used to have the keychain attached to it. Make the insulation be flush with the edge of the hole. Bend the wire around the keychain adapter hole.

11.) Reassemble your laser pointer. Remember the polarity of the button cells, if you still are using them. Strip the first 1/4"-5/16" of insulation from both leads (the wires sticking off the back of the pointer). Attach your connectors to these stripped ends. You should hopefully know how to use a crimp connector. Attach your switch and try it out. You may now put the protective cap back on the front of the pointer. Why did you take it off? I wanted to show you that it was pointless except to protect the emitter.

Well, it should look similar to a tadpole now:

(a tadpole)

(a constant toggle switch attached via 1/4" blade connectors to the battery endcap)

I'll probably do this to a KAF member's laser pointer (a plastic Class II one, not a metal Class IIIA) and retake some of those pictures.

Questions? Comments?

Edit: the point of the coupler is to give both a surface to mount this thing using a machine screw and to keep that button depressed, since I didn't feel like soldering the connection together by removing the whole laser emittor and integrated leaf switch. If I did that, then I would've jsut made a new body for it out of 1/2" CPVC so that I could then mount it in even more places.

I believe my NF is cursed. So far, everything that's happened to it have been easy fixes. But now, I believe I have found a "Buy new Nitefinder" problem. The cyclinder mount holes located on the top rear and bottom front of the cylinder have had the rear section of them sheared and broken off*. The holes in the brackets were oblong before this happened, obviously showing wear. The reason why I believe they broke was because I no longer had any support for the slamming of the piston against the front of the cylinder besides those two plastic pieces. It was fine until I reglued the front of the cylinder back because before it would move with the piston due to a duct tape hold. After the glue set, I tried it out and noticed move movement than usual. I do recommend anyone who uses a NF more than a sidearm or backup and has removed the front of the case to check for any excess wear on the cyclinder mounting brackets. Anyone who can come up with a good solution to this besides replacement of the cylinder, please share your wisdom with me. If pictures are needed, please notify and I will boot up my other computer and post some digitals. I feel weird asking for "fix this" help, but that's what we're do here, help eachother, right?



*Front was sheared, rear broke completely.

Someone on another forum (for a non-Nerf hobby) posted this. It is quite intereseting. If you have Netscape, just put "Pivot" in your Google bar and download (FREE) it. Post something which beats mine; something not too difficult to accomplish is that. I think I'm gonna make a Chuck Norris roundhouse kick...

Yes, I know that image is a little big...

To those of you who use drills for masonry work, I was just wondering if an air drill (4 CFM, 700 rpm) would be decent for masonry. It would be replacing an electric hammer drill.

I've tried this before. The only difference is that I actually wired up the whole deal as multiple electrical circuits. The only thing it was missing was an electrical detonator and an explosive. When a stopwatch (attached to the bomb, activated when current flowed through the whole shmere) had the alarm go off, that was the end of the round. Everything was controlled by a little under 20 wires, only one of which actually controlled the speaker on the alarm and a blinking light. I think I might remake this, only with some mini-cannon-device and maybe a remote phone trigger. Something like a Thunderpipe or other movie-spcFX device. Well, time to find an old cordless phone and an electrical signal amplifier... Actually, I have nothing better to do today, why not? I'll post a pic later...maybe... (ellipses are great)

I do not recommend this game. It was a crappy form of simulations which I thought sucked. CTF is better IMHO. Mmm...base defenses...

Lately the closest thing my team has been doing to a simulation is retrieving cannon parts. Otherwise, CTF is the mainstead. Always works well with how my field is. I think I need to make more bunkers or move a base; things are getting way too close to my house.

I use Lowes for my PVC needs. Otherwise, McMaster-Carr has everything plumbing, and then some.

I have a great suggestion. I'll give you a hint: it's in my signature...
That one there has a 1.5" barrel. That could easily be replaced with a 2" or larger, just the length would have to be altered. I don't really use that one for much more than, well, a wall ornament since it is made of DWV pipe and whatnot, but meh, I take it out every once and awhile and shoot off a bag of 300 or so BBs at 40 psi.

Seriously, there are a few topics here about stuff like that. One of them even hit three pages on nothing but ammo and whatnot.

You are probably referring to Starbuck's Razorbeast.

I think Scared is better. It is found here.

The pluner goes as far as the reducing plane from the cylinder to the barrel. It does not enter the barrel.


You should be happy that all you lost was your BnA. I lost my AT3k (verge of bustedness), NF (cylinder broke free of the case), SuperSoaker (experimental barrel flattened), and every other Nerf weapon I owned in a move...I have to rebuild my collection now with nothing but homemades on a budget. That makes me depressed. Time to go work on a new one to make the opposite of the SCAR-N: slow rate of fire with maximum range of 250+ ft. That should be the complete opposite.

Nice writeup, too depressed now to compliment further...

Meh, I feel like responding to this.

First off, the pressure of CO2 when it finally gets to the bolt is much less than the pressure direct from the tank. I mean, less than 500psi. Wanna know what that 'velocity adjust knob' really is? Part of a regulator. It is a flow regulator (usually), but still a regulator none-the-less.

Now, on to why I wanted to post:
Hammer valves, fun stuff...
Piston valves: even better. Try and either make a manually-operated (much like the valve in an AT3k or the like) one, or use something pneumatic. I still need to try my hand at a manually-actuated piston valve, just because I have shit-luck with pneumatic-actuation, or lack of actuation really...

What is this for? Do I want to know? Should anyone here know?

Take a valve from, oh, I dunno, if you don't care about flow, a pressure washer handle. Let's just say that 4500psi with maximum temperature of over 300F and minimum of less than -100F (or so I have heard...) is okay for CO2, but even still, the limited flow removes any real 'cool-down' effect of the carbonated dioxygen. That and regulators are mandatory for repeatable results in the ways of performance. Price does not matter when maximums of such gasses are used. You get what you pay for.

I got the gist of it. I didn't even fully read the thing. Perhaps you need to adjust your monitor's brightness or contrast...

Seriously, DB, you might've misfocused your camera. Mine hates taking detailed photos but loves taking stuff like, on, I dunno, this. It cost me $80 and came with a printer. The printer retails at $180 on its own...mmm...sales...

It also likes nature...

Would the stop really have to be adjustable? Or couldn't there just be a piece of board which is moved from one slot cut into the 3/4" PVC to another slot? I dunno...

I like the idea of using air restrictor springs. I have a good number of those lying around...

Overall, nice job. Good concepts all around. I can't wait to hear of the long-term reliability.

Oh yeah, the "advancing thing" is called a follower for future reference.

I've seen and used one of those before on a mountainbiking trip a few summers ago. I dunno if it was the same pump, but it sure went fast. It was some frame-mounted bike pump, so I don't think it was what you have.

I dunno if I should post in this, but I will anyway.

.25" I.D. aluminum tubing. It's been rumored that brakeline works as well, but I was under the impression that that stuff was .25" O.D., not I.D. Otherwise, 1/8" Sch40 PVC.

Bizket, you make it seem like something new; these have been around for years.

Yeah, I guess these games are spreading, albeit slowly, but still spreading. Hmm...I think that that would get a few dozen more people into the game at my school...make me some money for selling the information needed, too...

Tank material makes no difference if the same pressures are used. Hence metals are used if pressures exceed that of the same limit of PVC for extended times. If you want darts to go over 200 ft., this can be done with PVC. Actually, I might have to try a gun designed to launch a 3/8" Stefan a really long way for technology demonstration and to prove my point more easily. Gimme a week or two though.

If any archers are out there, they will know what I'm talking about. Since my hand doesn't fit to well in the handle of the BnA, I made a trigger release. I will edit this post as soon as I resize the pics of the release.

It's more like this, not a trigger mechanism attached to the gun, although I have had a few ideas on how to make on of those as well. Just wait and see. It won't be for awhile though becuase my school is starting this week.

As for the pics, they are MASSIVE. I may attempt to downsize them on paint, but they aren't saved on the conputer I am currently on.

Large drill bit and a high powered drill. My friend did that and it worked pretty dang well, except it took a few tries.

As I was searching the web for software which allows the user to remap their joystick to have its inputs be recognized as a keyboard's, I realized that there are too many programs. If anyone has a recommendation as to what I should get in order to use my joystick for Wolfenstein: ET I would be greatly appreciated if they were to share it. I was thinking maybe JoyMouse. Does anyone have any experience with this software?

<EDIT> I had a feeling this was goin to be a dead topic. </EDIT>

Wow, umm, perhaps I should read the boards more often.

No, your response was not off topic, it was relatively close to what I was talking about. The Nostromo N52 speedpad has a built in d-pad. It also has two rows of five keys and a row of four with a scroll wheel. Then there is a key and a button for the thumb (which also has the directional pad). I play on two servers, one which is xpsave.cfg and another which I pwn with the Garand on. PX is the first (XPS) server, IP 208.53.138.5, and the second is 64.247.16.8. Both have mods which are ETPub. I like the PX server because its administrators are like NerfHaven. I have tried very few base race style maps. I like campaign more.

I have made several of my local friends get ET for the express use at LAN parties. Funny thing ise, the ded-server for ET runs at 600mhz and with only 256mb RAM. Quite pathetic, but it gets the job done. Currently, I am making a new computer with 800mhz and 2gb RAM. Once that is completed, the new ded-server we will be using has dual 700mhz processors and a gig of memory dispersed among eight ports. The new one will also be at 1000mbps LAN upload speed, instead of 100 megs for the current. We are all pitching in for a new switch.

What resolution and usable screen size are both of you running?

I kinda see what your talking about. This is what I think you put, only in my words: A rod that prevents the valve from being opened, allowing the gun to be refilled. It would be attached to the valve by a hinge, allowing it to swing out of the way. So essentially it could double as a safety. Hmm. Interesting.

Theoretically speaking, in 1/4 in. vinyl tubiing would increase reaction time by having the air moving at a higher pressure because of the constriction of the smaller diameter; which means in the end the same amount of air will reahc its destination in either size tubing. I dunno. I usually just use the 1/4 in. cause I have a billion bits that fit it nicely.

From a senior member, I expected better. You do know that you did violate the rules of a good number of organizations, right? Pornograpy is protected by law to not be shown to minors. With no warning, you did, in fact, break a law. That is a law that, depending on your state, can offer several years in prison and a mark as a sex offender on your record. You really were being a dumbass, and I believe you still are.

Not to be going off topic, but it is possible to get pictures on the Internet even if you don't have a digital camera. When you get the pictures developed on a standard film camera, depending on where you go you can get a CD that has those pictures on it. Then all you do is save the pic of the stock on your computer as a file that is for pictures (i.e. .jpg, .gif). Go to this site and enter the file name that you saved it under. Then click browse. The complete file name should then show up where you typed the -filename-.-whatever compressed format it was saved as-. Click "host It" at the base of the page. It will then give you an address that you will entered into your post on a forum (in this case Nerfhaven's forum). Copy and paste that url in your post and there you go! Free web hosting and a picture to help out Hunter or whoever else needs it. I got this by searching these forums by the way.

This happened to a SM1500 of a KAF member's brother. He yanked on the trigger too hard, which ripped to O-ring out of the back of the valve. I was unable to fix it.

If there is no broken plastic, do what Uncle Hammer said. If that fails, well, I have some ways, but can not describe them in text and do not have a valve to demonstrate with, since the only 2k valve I have is glued to a piece of 1" thinwall, soon to be Sch40.

Hmm...
Do you mean so that it opens easier? because if the spring itself opens it, then during refilling one has to keep their hand on the valve handle. I was thinking of something very similar to this, but ruled it out because of that. Instead I just use the thumd on my left hand to assist, once I get my homemade working again. Solenoids operated valves, however costly they are, are pretty much the best choice for a quickly opening valve. As for a latch, what kind of valve handle? If it has a plastic double wing design, just drill a hole and hook up one end of the spring to it. If it has one handle, I guess the same thing, except it's metal, so use of a stronger bit and more powerful drill is needed.

Check valve was put in backwards? Does the resistance get higher as you pump it more? Also, does the tubing shrink when you pull the pump out? (I see this thread as getting to be a great source for Perverted Nerf Quote type-slogan-threads...)

I was not nitpicking, I just foung it hilarious.

What I usually do on Saturday nights is play Wolfenstein: ET. Unfortuneatly my connection was incredibly slow that night. Nothing is a good time to me. Well, beating the shit out of dumbasses at my school is fun, as with being a bullies' bully. Mmm...fear...

I have tried to slow down. Luckily the only thing keeping me on now is, well, nothing since I will have no time to even view this site come tomorrow. Damn school...
"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times..."
Yeah, that about covers it.

It seems to me as if blisters will appear rapidly using that handle.


Perhaps attach some sort of sleeve (1/2" CPVC?) using an e-clip in a groove on the end of that handle? That may increase opening time by all of a hundredth of a second, as well.



If one were really worried about opening time vs. ease of use, finding a compromise in length would be the simplest option in my mind. Obviously shorter = faster, longer = ease of use in this application...



Or just get some muscle on those forearms. Try taking a 2" or so cylinder (old piece of exhaust pipe), drill a hole in the middle (all the way through both sides), run a good sized length of string through the hole, tying one end to the cylinder the other to a plate-style weight (something you'd see on the end of a freeweight bench press bar). Twist the cylinder in both hands, wrapping the string around the cylinder. This should be lifting the weight in the air, at the same time exercising most of the muscles used when opening a ball valve.
Don't overdo it with wrist exercises: carpel tunnel syndrome is so enjoyable.



I like that duct tape sling. I may have to make one of those for my girlfriend's rifles...perhaps an AK.

Well, since I was bored last night, I found some interesting stuff happening with the "Last Click" sorting...

Guests can post?

Guests can PM?

A member has something in their inbox...

GoogleBot posting?

People actually print this stuff out?

I guess they wanted to tell a co-worker or something...

Dubya Tee Eff, mate, there better be some good exs-splanations regardin' some d'ose...

And, uhh, for all of those "Guest" things, there were no anonymous users on during those times.

Seriously, what is up with that shtuff?

Hmm...that gives me an idea...gotta go talk to the trigger man *runs to go play SOCom II for PS2* *comes back twenty minutes later* Well, I might recommend dowel for the trigger which someone wants to make for one of my future homemade SNAP knock-offs. However, that is really becoming more of a FAR-SNAP knock-off very quickly...

Makes it have the resemblence of a Russian SMG.

I missed a lot of the KISS. Time to go read everything in DB's sig...

There's steel pipe that works well too (don't happen to know the size). I only started using that because it was a buck more (for 5') than 1/2" PVC (10') at my Lowes and it fits my darts better. It's also really heavy compared to PVC. I like heavy guns, though, because its a better workout.

Was it "Tec" or "Tek?" Last I checked, there was niether a Tec Ten firearm nor a Nerf blaster that was a Tec Ten. I searched for "Tek Ten" so that you could continue your lazical cycle. However, quite frankly, I really don't feel like fishing throught all of these results, so it appears as if you have to do something to find out the answer to your question.

Yeah, make a new one. Molding one won't be too hard, but finding the proper strength plastic will be. There is an easier way though, throw the RF20 in the never-use pile. The thing sucks. Buy a PC, get some extra clips, there you go.

No, but if you did search like taita_cakes said, boltsniper attempted an automatic bullpup rifle powered by explosions of mixtures of different airosals (sp). It used shells though, not just the darts. I, after reading his few threads, took his idea and went a step farther in the design of the shells and would use primers for black powder rifles instead of a grill lighter.. Also, my shells would be made of copper, not PVC, so that they would be thinner. They also would not use standard endcaps, but a soldered piece of sheet copper cut to fit in the back of the pipe/shell thing to give the whole thing a smaller profile. The problems with using explosives to power a Nerf dart, however, is that sealing it is rather difficult. Also, the dart gets slightly singed (looked it up in the dictionary for the spelling) depending on the fit of the dart in the shell/barrel. But as for a recoil or blowback operated gun, ask boltsniper for the hardness of the recoil to base your spring strength on, or experiment yourself.