Yazzeh's Content

#231472 My Homemade Battle Stop-sign

Posted by Yazzeh on 20 May 2009 - 12:19 PM in Off Topic

Yazzeh...why did you say you would charge people entrance if you go 50+ people and moved to a larger gym? Do you have to rent the gym, like F_A24's wars? If not, then I'm sorry, but no one should ever have to pay to nerf. That's what makes the sport so awesome; the guns are cheap (relatively...) and the ammunition can be made at home. You've got a good thing going; don't scare people away by trying to make money off of them in ways other than selling your foam and tape creations.

I hope you and some of your guys can make a road trip down to one of the Season of Foam wars. I'd love to duel against some massive boffers with a nerf sword. We'll be in both Ontario and New York, which, with a bit of driving, might be doable.

I don't really make any money. The charge for everyone, even for 20 people, is 15 dollars each. for 20 people I have a smaller gym that I can rent for $45 an hour. Everyone pitches in so I can restock destroyed darts, rebuild anything that's been broken, like obstacles, upgrade the obstacles, repair swords, build more swords. To be honest, I've only broken even on the cost of hosting these wars after 3 of them. I charge around 15 per person so that no-shows that I can't calculate into the divided cost don't end up making the remainder of the gym rental fall on my head. I'm already spending literally thousands of dollars buying all the Nerf guns and making all the swords for people to rent, adding to the cost of buying and maintaining the materials for obstacles. This stuff doesn't happen by magic, and people would rather rent a 20 dollar Nerf gun and a 25 dollar foam sword for 5 bucks in total than buy them permanently.

The reason the price wouldn't go down for 50+ is because a larger gym to accommodate them would cost $100 an hour. I'd also have to make more obstacles and most likely supply more guns and definitely more swords for rent. The next war would be cheaper, of course, with everything mostly paid off.

The first war I hosted was a $20 entrance fee and 8 people showed up so I had to cover the rest with my own money on TOP of having made and bought everything. That was a sinkhole, but I did another and another and made enough to balance my books.

As for going elsewhere to Nerf, I don't have the time. Most of my friends like the melee aspect more than the Nerf gun aspect, which is why I joined them to appeal to a wider audience. They still like the guns, but wouldn't be a fan of gun only games.

#231631 My Homemade Battle Stop-sign

Posted by Yazzeh on 20 May 2009 - 11:18 PM in Off Topic

Disregarding that completely pointless post... My latest creation!

Posted Image

It is the Priest Staff seen on the Priest Class Patch for World of Warcraft.

For comparison:
Posted Image

I only did one side because I have a bunch of other projects to finish before the Sword War this June 6th. I personally think it looks great. Reminds me of a stained-glass window. Though I wouldn't want to get hit by one.

#231423 My Homemade Battle Stop-sign

Posted by Yazzeh on 19 May 2009 - 10:04 PM in Off Topic

How the fuck did this retarded thread get over 100 replies?
Because no matter how sophisticated the people of this board seem to be, what with the calculations and all that, beating people over the head with sticks covered in foam makes our simple minded selves smile? Thats about the best reason I could come up with.

Well, that, and there is always some sort of appeal to foam swords. I made a foam Katana, somewhat like yours Yazzeh, but more my own design, and if was a huge hit at that recent MN war. There is just nothing else like giant foam swords is there?

I apologize for catering to a side interest, Oh Mighty God of PETG.

And yes, while there isn't anything quite like hitting people with a solid sword that doesn't wound them, there REALLY is nothing like hitting people with a giant hammer that can send them flying, and still doesn't hurt them.

edit: Wait a minute... BustaNinja, there are a LOT of calculations involved in making these weapons. All of these are designed on computers, every component is measured and cut. Just because they don't have moving parts or compressed air doesn't mean they're akin to cave-man clubs XD.

#231731 My Homemade Battle Stop-sign

Posted by Yazzeh on 21 May 2009 - 05:16 PM in Off Topic

Great to see you like my suggestions
Nice newest creation too, looks very well made.

How about giant cutlery? A log?

I always love other people's creative suggestions. ^^
Usually my own ideas are Effeminate such as the Battle Stop-Sign and the Yield Sword, but they're often not as fun as other people's suggestions.

Giant cutlery is a definite possibility. A giant fork wouldn't be beyond me. A spoon would be cool, but since I'd need to make a bowl on the end of it with foam, there's no way to reinforce it and it would easily be broken off.

A giant log is terribly uncreative. It's just a rod of PVC coated in layer after layer of foam.

My girlfriend says hi.

#119956 Hell Before Halloween!

Posted by Yazzeh on 16 August 2007 - 09:38 AM in Nerf Wars

Yazzeh: Montreal is only 5 hours away and you don't even have to cross the border. In 2 months and 4 days I am sure you would be able to finish a decent primary and side arm as well as make at least 100 darts in that time frame.

Yes, yes, I am aware of how close I am. Unfortunately, I don't have a driver's license or a car. Or much money... (Think in the 20's of dollars). I would be very interested in coming, but alas, my parents won't drive me, none of my driving friends are interested in Nerf enough to go with me and I don't have the cash to get there any other way. Some day, when I'm about 21 or something, I'll break free of my restraints. And perhaps even get a job.

Haha... yeah... sure.

#119917 Hell Before Halloween!

Posted by Yazzeh on 15 August 2007 - 11:28 PM in Nerf Wars

Damn... Why can't there be an awesome Nerf War in Montreal. Why.

Oh well, you guys have your fun. I'm not even done modifying and making stefans anyways.

*Sniffles*

#217830 Headshots

Posted by Yazzeh on 13 March 2009 - 08:22 AM in General Nerf

I don't really agree with the majority opinion here, but that's purely for my own indoor Nerf Wars in Montreal.

I don't just allow headshots, I encourage them. Everyone is required to play with safety glasses or goggles, or else they're only allowed to watch and participate in the swords-only games. We DO use some modified guns which shoot harder and faster, but we DON'T use stefans, only stock darts. Half the darts are velcro tipped, which might sting more than a suction cup, but it doesn't matter enough to discourage it. My Nerf Wars are designed to resemble living out a video-game fantasy without causing anyone pain. You can't live out a video-game without headshots.

I've hosted 3 wars so far and never once has there been a complaint about headshots or anything negative said. Usually when I mention headshots are worth an instant kill, while you require two hits on the body, I get giant grins. And it's not immature little kids doing the grinning, it's the 20 year olds.

I guess the rule should be based on the situation. Outdoor wars with really powerful weapons and stefans should avoid the face, regardless of eye protection. If it really stings enough for you to care, it shouldn't be done.

Not trying to sneak in advertisement or highjack the thread, since I've only met one other Nerfer from Montreal here, but here's a video showing how we play, and one guy getting headshot with the dart sticking to his eye protection:

Montreal Nerf War (Summer 2008)

For my wars, headshots are great.

#106150 The Tec 9

Posted by Yazzeh on 17 May 2007 - 03:59 PM in Homemades

I'm curious as to how the gun actually gets cocked. I understand how everything else works, but how do you cock it? Do you pull the barrel forwards or what?

#229245 The Nerf Tank, Flame Thread, No I Have Pictures Its Almost Done

Posted by Yazzeh on 09 May 2009 - 07:08 PM in Homemades

Guys, I don't know about you, but this makes me want to build shit. How many of us have access to scrap wood? How much do screws cost?

I don't care if this just looks like a Franken-box instead of a tank, it looks like you could live in it. Uncomfortably, but still, how many of you have built something you could live in? I sure haven't.

This isn't an 'end' to this idea, this is just a starting point. Also it makes me wonder if we can't figure out a way to have an 'Extreme' Nerf War, where people pair off on bikes, one person shooting, the other person biking.

...Nevermind.

I need to find my drill and make something awesome out of junk <.<

#119339 Cpvced Tek Ten

Posted by Yazzeh on 12 August 2007 - 11:30 PM in Modifications

Well now I just have to go out and buy the Tek 6 as well and do this. I wonder if the newer tek 10s (that look slightly nicer) have weaker or stronger springs... The old style Tek 10 (the one you modded) I found at value village seems pretty weak to me, but the new one I had bought a while ago seemed more than decent with power for something with 10 barrels.

Great mod, I was never sure how to open the barrel assembly. I'm always wary of prying things apart.

#108430 Replacement Springs

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 May 2007 - 07:47 PM in Modifications

You'd put them at the BACK of the plunger, and on the BACK of the plunger-head, so the repulsive force of the magnets accelerates the plunger. That way, you get the full pull (or push, in this case) of the magnets right off the bat.

The problem with that is that once the magnets have finished repulsing (that is if the force doesn't reach to the other end of the tube) then the plunger will decellerate as it goes along it's path. Which is why I suggested using both repulsion and attraction with magnets that won't tear the casing apart.

Anyways, I like the idea. You should go for it and tell us the results.

#108407 Replacement Springs

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 May 2007 - 06:50 PM in Modifications

You would need a cushioned plunger head, because the force of impact could be enough to realign the magnetic domains. Also, magnetic fields are inversely proportional to the distance squared, so this would need to have super slim and super strong magnets. I'm thinking that for the cost and effectiveness of this (over $20 in magnets) you might as well have used the spring, which is far more reliable. Great thinking, but not a feasible idea.

I don't know, a 3 mm thick magnet with 18 lbs of pull strength for $1.08 seems pretty decent to me. Not as cheap as a spring (since you'd be using two or three of these) but it wouldn't be a bad idea. I agree with cushioning the plunger. Also, leaving an actual gap between the two attracting magnets so that they couldn't touch even if there was no cushion. Benefits of using magnets instead of springs... well, you get more power out of magnets, depending on the magnet used. Uhh, yeah, that's all I can think of.

#108374 Replacement Springs

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 May 2007 - 05:41 PM in Modifications

CaptainSlug, Carbon, Groove, what is your oppions if this would work?
Distance reduces the pull strength, unlike with springs where compression or extension distance scales up the applied load.
I'm not optimistic.

Even so (with the kind of power these magnets have, that wouldn't be a big deal over a span of 5 inches), you can simply add another magnet at the back of the plunger, which is repelling the magnet on the plunger itself. That way, you have the immediate full force of the repulsion as well as the immediate attraction of the other magnet. The whole thing'd be so powerful it might just break itself if it were made of plastic! Haha. I think this is a good avenue for a home-made.

#121658 Specific Lubircant?

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 August 2007 - 06:24 PM in Modifications

Ok, well let me just state all this in one post:

Silicone lubricant is SAFE for use with condoms. In fact, silicone lube is sometimes used instead of water based lubes for a good reason: it will never dry up or evaporate. Water based lubes are cheaper, but you have to use more of it for the same effect as silicone. Though it is not reccomended to use AUTOMOTIVE silicone lubricant during sex, since it is absolutely ice cold out of a spray canister. I mean, ouch.

Vaseline, Lithium grease, WD-40, and any other petroleum based lubricant is not safe for condoms OR Nerf guns. They will eat away rubber. I'm not sure about Lithium hybrids, so I guess I'll trust a first hand account of that.

K-Y Jelly is water based. Besides this, it is designed to dry up and be easily removed. If you try using K-Y Jelly in a Nerf gun, either spring powered or pump action, it will work. For about 12 hours if you use a lot. After that, it will either completely dissapear, or become dry, flake up, and clog your pump or plunger to hell. Easy to clean up with water alone, but you don't want to.

Also, silicone spray doesn't ooze. So, nice attempt, but ew.

Happy Nerfing, and happy... *raises eyebrows and winks*

#120063 Toilet Paper Holder Springs

Posted by Yazzeh on 16 August 2007 - 07:58 PM in Modifications

Will everyone please just let this die. I'm getting annoyed seeing it on the front page, and I'm sure others are too.

#228760 Ls Scope + Action Cam

Posted by Yazzeh on 07 May 2009 - 08:20 AM in Modifications

They have another cam that's 30 dollars cheaper and pretty much the same as far as I can tell, except it has a 2 GB card size limit, instead of 4 GB. If you're on a budget, you can buy 2 GB cards in bulk and it'd end up cheaper in the end.

#108735 Baby Powder Stock Darts

Posted by Yazzeh on 01 June 2007 - 08:08 AM in Modifications

Would it be possible for you to get a video of these darts firing at something?

Haha, I wish I could right now, but I've been busy packing for Italy, and I'm leaving today. The only thing I have at my disposal that could even take video is my sister's digital camera. Anyways, unless you all want to wait 2 weeks for me to make a short clip, why not just try it yourself? The dart isn't ruined and it's not that hard of a thing to do. But yeah, I will end up posting a video up in 2 weeks, I dunno if I should revive this thread by then for that. It'll be a video in light and dark, so you can see the laser beam with the powder cloud.

#108436 Baby Powder Stock Darts

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 May 2007 - 08:31 PM in Modifications

Okay, I'm not too sure what you mean. Do you mean you shoot seven blasts of smoke, and no dart, before you ahve to "refill" the dart with baby powder? If so, I see no reason to be puffing during a war to make people think you are smoking. It would be like telling everyone where you are, too.

Clarify if I'm wrong, but that's what I deciphered (I'm sure I'm probably wrong, because I don't think someone would want to puff about like that, unless they want to make it MilSim and pretend to be using "smoke grenades").

-OfAll'

I mean that if you were to retrieve the smokey-dart you shot, you could fire it 6 more times before the smoke effect dissapates. I also stated that this isn't for warring. It's just for fun. It doesn't affect the gun, so once you stop using the smokey-dart, you can use normal darts without any 'smoke' involved. This could be fun for reenactments, and just horsing around. Like in a pirate scenario, you fire, smoke flies everywhere. It's not a practical modification, it's simply for kicks.

#108464 Baby Powder Stock Darts

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 May 2007 - 09:28 PM in Modifications

This idea would be good for target practice with hard surfaces like plywood, assuming that the dart hits with enough force to actually leave a mark and not just a dusting of powder.

Well, first of all, powder doesn't STICK to hard surfaces. Unless that hard surface is porous or rough. I haven't been able to try it out on any material yet, I just tested out the powder blast function. You could probably increase the amount of powder to mark someone with by adding a second hole, but loading the darts manually would be messy. Even with one hole, the powder will shoot little spurts out as I twist it in, but nothing that's inconvenient.

Using a powder to mark people is a lot less annoying than using liquid or blunt-force trauma (welts). Someone suggested chalking up the front of the darts before play, but that would wear off after every hit, so reusing ammunition would require the time to reload as well as rechalk (if you aren't playing by an honor system). My darts could be used 7 times before you have to worry about 'priming' it to leave marks. Anyways, I don't want to get into the technicalities of using these darts in wars. The effect you get immediately after the shot is a huge misty smokey wall right in front of your gun. If that doesn't give you away, well hell, you're playing blindfolded-nerf-war.

...which in retrospect sounds kind of interesting.

#108590 Baby Powder Stock Darts

Posted by Yazzeh on 31 May 2007 - 05:12 PM in Modifications

Anyway, sounds pretty cool. You could probably fill it also with some colored sand, like the stuff they use to fill the bottles to make, "art".

The granules of sand might be too large and heavy in general. Maybe if you blended the sand, it'd be a lot smoother, but it'd still be pretty heavy.

Sealing off the back is required for this, otherwise you get a plunger full of baby powder, and that'll either mess up your gun totally or just decrease the preformance 100-fold.

Anyways, you aren't adding much mass to the back by sealing it off. The tip of the stock darts will still be heavy enough to outweigh the baby powder and the small scrap of FBR you put in the back. An additional note... Make sure the FBR you put in the back is wedged nicely in there. If not, it'll pop out after a shot or two, or force way too much baby powder out at once.

Firing 20 of these out of a rapid fire 20 would be hell. Your rapid fire 20 would have to have the rods removed of course, but yeah, it would be a hell of a smokey mess. Make sure you aren't down-wind.

#108679 Baby Powder Stock Darts

Posted by Yazzeh on 31 May 2007 - 11:00 PM in Modifications

This is what I envisioned:

*image*

Yeah, that's pretty much exactly it. I've also tried putting the hole in the center of the actual rubber suction tip. It was less messy in general, as the rubber seals itself until the blast of the gun forces the powder through it, but that there's no giant poof of powder when you shoot, and also, the mark it leaves on someone is rather small in comparison to having the hole on the side. I actually made the hole using a small screwdriver from my screwdriver set, and I made the hole at a bit of a diagonal, as to create a more readily available passage for the powder to escape. I tested both ideas out on a navy blue pair of shorts draped over my fan, and it works, and the powder clings quite well. To completely get rid of it, you'd probably have to wash it. Otherwise, rubbing it and trying to rub it off with spit will only make the mark fade. I think the dart with the hole in the suction tip is more practical in wars, and the hole in the side is more practical for aesthetics. To make a hole in the center of the suction cup (I used the Buzz Bee brand of dart for this one) I poked a jumbo saftey-pin through the center, then used a sharp wood-carving blade (those scalpel type things) to pierce closely around the 'hole' I made in a square. This way, the powder can easily escape with a bit of pressure, but won't fall out with handling.

#108433 Baby Powder Stock Darts

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 May 2007 - 08:10 PM in Modifications

Now, I know that something LIKE this has already been posted once, but it isn't the same. As simple of a mod that this is, it works quite nicely, and you don't have to refill for every shot.

Basically, you take a stock dart and make a tiny hole approximately 1/4" down from the rubber lip that's at the beginning of the foam itself. Then take a funnel, pour in some baby powder or talcum powder, and plug the back of the dart with a very very tiny scrap of FBR. Don't pack it down too tightly, just make sure it stays in place. You want some air inside the pocket full of baby powder you just made. And there you have it. What happens is the air pressure of the gun pushes on the FBR first, causing it to push on the powder-air mix. This then exits the hole in the front of the dart, while the whole dart is already in motion. What's it do? Nothing, really. You just get a smokey shot. No trail, just a big blast of smokey goodness. Also, when the dart hits someone, it should leave a little mark of powder on them. This mod lets the darts be reused without having to refill. You get about 7 decently smokey shots before it starts to fade. There's no preformance decrease.

An added cool factor is for night fights. If you've done something like I have and stuck an actual laser pointer into your nite-finder, when you shoot a blast, your laser's beam shows up in the cloud of powder about 5-6 inches in front of your gun. It's amused me greatly!

I will agree with many of you in advance by saying that this mod won't help with nerf-wars or anything like that, but like I stated in my description, this is simple aesthetics. Just for looks and not practical at all.

Enjoy powder blastin'!

#115102 Cpvced Tek Six

Posted by Yazzeh on 09 July 2007 - 01:15 AM in Modifications

I actually found the cocking mechanism fit rather comfortably in my hand, and I could shoot just as fast as with the maverick. Just takes some time getting used to. Also, with that hole in the maverick, you can always tie some rope to it, then loop the rope around your shoulder. That way you can dual-wield them and cock by extending your arm, and when you're all out, you can just let go of one and let it hang at your side.

ANYWAYS, to the point, the tek six isn't as sturdy as the maverick, especially with the complicated and slightly fragile cocking set-up they have. I still think it's worth it to use this gun, however, as long as you aren't too aggressive with it, and if you are, to put some extra work into reinforcing.... everything. I think I'll go buy one again and try this mod. I was always a little bit confused as to how to go about CPVCing it, so thanks!

#106279 Plunger Lubricants...

Posted by Yazzeh on 18 May 2007 - 07:56 AM in Modifications

We'll just leave it at, "yes, I've tried it", and "no, it doesn't work very well".

Hahahaha. Oh man. Thanks Carbon, you started my day with a laugh. Also, thanks for the input. I guess I'll just use it as temporary lube for now and buy some silicone spray today.

#106324 Plunger Lubricants...

Posted by Yazzeh on 18 May 2007 - 05:05 PM in Modifications

Ok ok, alright. I went out and got myself a 300 g canister of MotoMaster Silicone Lube.

Seems to work fine.

#106252 Plunger Lubricants...

Posted by Yazzeh on 17 May 2007 - 11:23 PM in Modifications

Could you use KY Jelly as a plunger lube? Also, is it practical to use WD-40, or would that damage the plastic? But first and foremost... Could I use KY Jelly as a plunger lube without worrying about damaging the plastic? Cause if so, it'd save me searching for silicone sprays.

#106274 Plunger Lubricants...

Posted by Yazzeh on 18 May 2007 - 06:36 AM in Modifications

Hey, what would you rather imagine? Me handling KY Jelly I randomly found in my house, or me handling KY Jelly that I've bought myself and never used.

Though it's a close call on how sad/disturbing it is, I'd pick the self-bought Jelly.

Anyways, I already know I could use Silicone lube, but I'm asking about KY Jelly in particular. Has no one done it before?

#106257 Plunger Lubricants...

Posted by Yazzeh on 17 May 2007 - 11:45 PM in Modifications

Also, is it practical to use WD-40, or would that damage the plastic?

If that jelly is petroleum based, then it will not work.

It's water-based.

#106267 Plunger Lubricants...

Posted by Yazzeh on 18 May 2007 - 05:39 AM in Modifications

Dude, do you know what your parents are using KY jelly for?
If you did I dont think you would be using it or even handling the tube it comes in.

It's my own, buddy

I'm 18.

#166141 Nerf Products Discount Code:

Posted by Yazzeh on 03 August 2008 - 10:25 AM in General Nerf

Damn! $20 for shipping to Canada... That makes the 10% pretty much useless for me. Oh well, nice going for giving back to the Nerf community.

#120320 Disk Shot Mod (advanced)

Posted by Yazzeh on 18 August 2007 - 06:27 PM in Modifications

I bought something from a Dollar General that's called a Splatter Shield. It's basically very good wire netting with some extra metal junk and a handle that turns it into something that you can hold over a sizzling pan. I completely removed the orange piece that Captain Slug was talking about in a Nite Finder once by accident, and the plunger seal was so good that it would suction my darts into the plunger even with CPVC, so to remedy this, I bought that wire netting. I placed the netting over the CPVC's coupler, rammed the barrel in so that there would be an indent in the netting, cut it out with a dremel and then super glued it at the end of the coupler closest to the plunger. Now I get absolutely no airflow restriction and my darts are stopped by the netting.

Just thought I'd put that there.

#118328 How To Dual Wield Mavericks

Posted by Yazzeh on 05 August 2007 - 12:38 AM in Modifications

Have you tried just connecting the Mav's together and pulling them apart with your arms when reloading? This bypasses the entire connect-the-mav-to-your-body deal and probably makes acrobatics and aiming much easier.

That's actually the worst way to do it. You have to cock both at the same time, or just hope one cocks more easily than the other, and also you'd have to make the string short enough that you don't have to eagle-spread to cock them, and finally, with your guns tied together, movement and independant aiming is near impossible.

#118231 How To Dual Wield Mavericks

Posted by Yazzeh on 04 August 2007 - 06:44 AM in Modifications

Lol. I'm sorry, but this was pretty much the first thing I did with my Mavericks after I bought them. I thought this would be common sense to people. What else would you use that hole for?

My method is a little different, where I take a string, make a loop out of it, but make the loop about 2-3 inches shorter than the length of my hand to shoulder. That way I can cock each gun individually with each arm and cock just by extending an arm. Also, when I need to drop my emptied guns, I can, and they just hang on my shoulder.

edit.

K, so I watched your video and you did something similar. But I still made the string longer. It makes handling the gun a lot easier with much more room to aim, instead of shooting from your nipples >.>

#117715 Bestest Pistol Whipping Gun

Posted by Yazzeh on 30 July 2007 - 10:38 PM in Modifications

I totally thought of Ichigo's sword when I saw this. Very awesome. I love the little skull decal as well.

#112056 Hey Look, A 1 Dollar Nite-finder!... Wait.. What?

Posted by Yazzeh on 19 June 2007 - 07:41 PM in General Nerf

This makes me quiver inside:

Are they even allowed to do this?

#112151 Hey Look, A 1 Dollar Nite-finder!... Wait.. What?

Posted by Yazzeh on 20 June 2007 - 09:09 AM in General Nerf

The darts that come with it are dangerous in high-powered guns. They can dent walls. They're also not too well balanced.

I bought this at a Dollar Store in my downtown area. I might just buy 20 bucks worth of these and use the ready made plungers to try out my Gauntlet Gun homemade idea.

I haven't actually opened this one yet, I just wanted to show you guys. I had one before, but it wasn't designed after the NF. Anyhow, I know these guns have decent range for a dollar. I mean, any range is good for a dollar! And stock NF ranges are acceptable for something that's this small and this cheaply made.

#118179 Lotsa Questions

Posted by Yazzeh on 03 August 2007 - 03:58 PM in Modifications

Just for clarity, yes, you will lose range when you remove the AR from the shells in the Double Shot. The reason for this is:

1. The rod (part of the AR) is what gives the dart any friction. Without that, the dart can pretty much fall right out of the shell.

2. When you remove all the junk inside of the shell you open up a lot of empty space. All the space has to get filled up with air before it starts to push the dart, which means you have less force as well.

3. The CPVC you put inside focuses the air, cuts off the rest of the shell's empty space, and adds the friction you need to get the range boost.

Hope this clears everything up.

#146469 How Do I Make A Tactical Rail Attachment?

Posted by Yazzeh on 23 March 2008 - 05:50 PM in Modifications

Do you mean the clip part or the rail?

It would be alot easier to just cut the piece off a xfire or NF.

I mean the clip part. Nite Finders have rails, not clips. I'm going to assume the same for the xfire, because I don't currently own one.

Also, thank you for drawing my attention to my mistake.

#146466 How Do I Make A Tactical Rail Attachment?

Posted by Yazzeh on 23 March 2008 - 05:27 PM in Modifications

I was staring lovingly at my Recon after modding it to compress the spring more and removing the ARs, and I happened upon a very sweet looking mod to turn the tactical light into a shotgun grip. This gave me an idea, a crazy idea. I want to turn the internals of a Big Blast into a grenade launcher in place of the tactical light, and also turn it into a shotgun grip. In my head it's feasible. I wanted to keep the tactical light intact if possible, so what I'm asking is if it's possible to make your own clip, without very specific and unique tools.

Thanks for any help!

#106799 Modding Tagger Darts For Ls

Posted by Yazzeh on 20 May 2007 - 07:19 PM in Modifications

God has a sense of humor. But he doesn't particularly like ignorance.

Actually, I'm pretty sure God loves ignorance. Hence the Forbidden Apple which cast off Adam and Eve's ignorance, causing God to get really emo and kicked humanity out of Eden.

What a jerk.

Are you sure you should use 2 bb's, or is it different if you're trying to optimize it for the LS?

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