Well what's sad is that everybody uses the canned "look in the modifications directory thread, dumbass" response without even checking to see the relevance to his question: in this case, there are NO fury fire mods in the Mod Directory, so telling him to go look there isn't very constructive. Should he have looked there first? Yes. But his question still deserves a thoughtful answer, instead of just bashing him.
Now obviously he didn't know to look there first, so he sorta got "lucky", however, as a community that prides itself on intellect and maturity, we should really make sure the suggestions we're making are useful, and not just some newb bashing under the guise of helping.
nostyleguy's Content
There have been 45 items by nostyleguy (Search limited from 08-February 97)
#290143 Nerf Dart Tag Furyfire Mods
Posted by
on 05 December 2010 - 01:41 PM
in
Modifications
#283436 Nerf, Nozzles, And Fluid Dynamics
Posted by
on 18 August 2010 - 04:57 PM
in
Off Topic
I'm pretty sure the pitfall here is that air compresses much more easily than steam and certainly water. Therefore any attempt to 'accelerate' the air through a tightening nozzle just serves to build up high pressure behind the nozzle, without actually being accelerated through it. This is why air 'flow' is so important in nerf. High pressure is good, but not if it doesn't ever contact your dart.
#283390 Predator Magnum, + 2k And Sspb
Posted by
on 17 August 2010 - 09:40 PM
in
Modifications
I love the gun, integrations make me happy. Just one question: why didn't you stick with running the at2k trigger wire through vinyl tubing like the fishing line previously? I understand that its not horribly uncomfortable where it is now, but was there technical difficulty in getting it to work through the tubing?
#280422 Need Help Designing Nerf Guns
Posted by
on 16 July 2010 - 03:13 PM
in
General Nerf
To be fair, a lot of universities have the ability to distribute licenses of commercial-grade software for either free, or very very cheap. I have legitimate copies of Inventor 2010, Autocad2010, Visual Studio 2008, and could have many other software licenses if I wanted. All thanks to being an Engineering major.I use autodesk inventor 2010. its a great tool, as it allows you to design your parts in 3D, so you can see them in all their glory. Its also REALLY easy to learn and use. I taught myself in the lesser half of the week.
What you don't state is that Inventor is insanely expensive. $5300? Not for nerf stuff. And I can pretty much guarantee that you didn't buy it, so why don't you stop admitting to and encouraging illegal activity on a site dedicated to toys, populated by kids?
http://store.autodes...s=1279305951173
#280277 Pumpbow
Posted by
on 14 July 2010 - 10:44 PM
in
Homemades
That just looks unfair. And the cocking looks alot easier than I'd have expected (though that might just be the difference between the [k26] and [k25]. I didn't think they were that different). Awesome stuff.
#279362 Slide Action, Magazine Fed Side Arm: Sas-5
Posted by
on 03 July 2010 - 03:25 PM
in
Homemades
That's an amazing looking homemade. Right up there with BoltSniper's imo.
Can you elaborate a little more on the catch mechanism? Idk if its just the pictures, but the contact rod seems long and angled, but the plunger's catch hole is a circle. I'm likely just misunderstanding.
Great work though, These always make me jealous
Can you elaborate a little more on the catch mechanism? Idk if its just the pictures, but the contact rod seems long and angled, but the plunger's catch hole is a circle. I'm likely just misunderstanding.
Great work though, These always make me jealous
#278330 Splitfire/2k Turret Modification!
Posted by
on 22 June 2010 - 10:57 PM
in
Modifications
I know its pointless to argue about matters of opinion, but was this 'thread-crapping' comment really needed?It seems like this was done a lot better without the rear loading a long time ago.
Split-tech 2k a la Falcon, circa 2006. But you know, thats just like, my opinion, man.
Just to defend the op's mod (which is amazing). I can easily see a bunch of areas where the splitlantern is 'a lot better' than the splittech
1) rear-loading
2) no exposed brass
3) no ugly hot-glue spacers or globs
4) not ridiculously ungainly
5) reloads in one motion vs two
as for the splittech, the only advantage i can see is:
1) 4 salvos instead of 2
#278294 Midwest Nerf Conglomerate
Posted by
on 22 June 2010 - 05:06 PM
in
General Nerf
nostyleguy@yahoo.com
#277933 Ace 49 Spring Replacement In Nightfinder, Problems.
Posted by
on 17 June 2010 - 07:30 AM
in
Modifications
It's probably the seal between the plunger head and the plunger tube. Add another o-ring with some e-tape underneath. Then lube it all up and you should be good to go. The faster air generated by a bigger spring is useless if half of it escapes behind the plunger in-stroke.
#276763 Autobow Mk Ii
Posted by
on 03 June 2010 - 10:59 PM
in
Homemades
What a ridiculously unnecessary post. There is such a thing as constructive criticism, and then there is just being a giant douche. Seriously. Just because its not a UBER MEGA HAMP doesn't mean its useless.I don't get the point of this or any the rest of your homemades. I doubt the accuracy of this thing is all that great, the ranges suck, and it looks like shit. I can't see how this would be very useful in a war.
Most guns can't fire nearly that fast. Its basically semi-auto since the priming and firing mechanisms are built into the same motion.
I'm sure the range could easily be improved simply by scaling up the strength/number of flexing arms.
Most of all, it looks reliable. A lot of breeches shave/jam darts, but this went 6 for 6 in the firing video. That alone makes it very appealing to me. I'd be drooling over a chance to use this
#276412 Angel Breeched Longshot Help
Posted by
on 30 May 2010 - 10:15 AM
in
Modifications
wow very helpful replies all. The double half-pipe technique on SG nerf's mod looks like a perfect solution. Too bad I already chopped up my stock bolt for just the nub. Anybody got a spare stock bolt laying around heh.
#276388 Angel Breeched Longshot Help
Posted by
on 30 May 2010 - 12:15 AM
in
Modifications
Okay so I got most of the way through Angel Breeching my longshot and I was pretty happy with it, untill I realized it would be nearly impossible to pull the bolt back now. I've looked through a lot of threads about it, and it seems like some ppl re-glue the nub on from the stock bolt, and re-use the bolt sled, but I've tried super glue, epoxy putty, and gorilla glue and nothing has held under the pressure of a [k26] spring.
I also tried a hose clamp, but (a) it still slid out of place and (
it got in the way of the clip feeding.
Finally, I tried soldering a steel cube (about the size of the stock bolt nub) to the brass, and this actually held, but broke after 5 shots.
The only other idea I have is to get some 5/8" brass (1 increment larger) and maybe cut a 'tab' out of it that could be bent up, and then used as a contact point for more steel soldering, but I don't want to buy a whole foot of brass (in a size I have no other use for) for a small reinforcement if it won't work.
So what works for you guys? How do you prime your angel breeched longshots?
I also tried a hose clamp, but (a) it still slid out of place and (
it got in the way of the clip feeding.Finally, I tried soldering a steel cube (about the size of the stock bolt nub) to the brass, and this actually held, but broke after 5 shots.
The only other idea I have is to get some 5/8" brass (1 increment larger) and maybe cut a 'tab' out of it that could be bent up, and then used as a contact point for more steel soldering, but I don't want to buy a whole foot of brass (in a size I have no other use for) for a small reinforcement if it won't work.
So what works for you guys? How do you prime your angel breeched longshots?
#276000 N-strike Barrel Break Ix-2
Posted by
on 25 May 2010 - 09:59 PM
in
News
wow, this came out of nowhere. Usually we've got leaked tid bits from other source before the official announcements.
Anyway, Is the gray priming 'grip' on the back necessarily indicative of a reverse plunger? Unfortunately, I think it is because there wouldn't be enough internal room to have a normal plunger pulled back without it sticking out.
At least the ammo holder looks cool
Anyway, Is the gray priming 'grip' on the back necessarily indicative of a reverse plunger? Unfortunately, I think it is because there wouldn't be enough internal room to have a normal plunger pulled back without it sticking out.
At least the ammo holder looks cool
#273666 3k Tubing
Posted by
on 29 April 2010 - 08:10 AM
in
Modifications
This is how I re-tube air guns.
1. Super glue the new tubing onto/into its new destination.
2. Apply an excessive amount of goop all around the connection.
3. Fill the system with pressure via the pump until the (still mostly un-set) goop blows a bubble and starts to leak
4. Re-apply Goop, spending extra care to cover the weak spot thoroughly.
5. Let it set for at least 24 hours.
Hasn't failed me yet.
1. Super glue the new tubing onto/into its new destination.
2. Apply an excessive amount of goop all around the connection.
3. Fill the system with pressure via the pump until the (still mostly un-set) goop blows a bubble and starts to leak
4. Re-apply Goop, spending extra care to cover the weak spot thoroughly.
5. Let it set for at least 24 hours.
Hasn't failed me yet.
#273665 Big Bad Bow Problem
Posted by
on 29 April 2010 - 08:05 AM
in
Modifications
In addition to what everybody has already said, make sure the connection between the barrel and orange plunger cap is air tight.
I did a similar mod with epoxy putty to hold the barrel in, and after a few shots, a crack appeared between the putty and the barrel. It was tiny, like a hair-line fracture, but it killed range. Goop it up and you should be good to go.
I did a similar mod with epoxy putty to hold the barrel in, and after a few shots, a crack appeared between the putty and the barrel. It was tiny, like a hair-line fracture, but it killed range. Goop it up and you should be good to go.
#273347 Magstrike Air Compressor Mod
Posted by
on 25 April 2010 - 10:18 PM
in
Modifications
A MS bladder can best be thought of as a "Resevoir" of extra air. It has a huge volume, at (possibly) high pressure. It is similar in purpose to hard air tanks made of PVC or aluminum that you see people using. They have a valve that opens slowly.
It's purpose is not to actually fire anything, only to fill another firing mechanism with air. In the case of a MS, it is the MS piston which fills with air. The incoming air presses against the spring-loaded piston, building pressure. Once the piston is pushed back far enough, a valve is opened and all the stored air is shot out very fast, launching the dart.
Therefore, the MS Piston is analogous to an AT2k tank, or even a Titan tank in purpose, though they operate very differently.
Finally, if you want to use both a MS bladder and an AT2k/Titan tank, the MS bladder would serve as a reservoir for the AT2k/Titan tank. You could hook the MS bladder up to inlet of the firing tank (instead of where the pump usually goes in) and have the MS trigger valve between them. With this system, you would pump up the bladder to capacity, open the MS trigger valve (filling the firing tank), close MS trigger valve, open firing tank (firing the dart), and then re-open the MS trigger valve, close, fire, etc until the MS bladder was empty.
This is the basis for several Semi Auto AT2k mods on this site, and even the inspiration for some Semi-Auto titans, though I think in practice, the Titan tank is only able to get about 2 shots off with 40-50 pumps of the MS bladder. Not very useful.
It's purpose is not to actually fire anything, only to fill another firing mechanism with air. In the case of a MS, it is the MS piston which fills with air. The incoming air presses against the spring-loaded piston, building pressure. Once the piston is pushed back far enough, a valve is opened and all the stored air is shot out very fast, launching the dart.
Therefore, the MS Piston is analogous to an AT2k tank, or even a Titan tank in purpose, though they operate very differently.
Finally, if you want to use both a MS bladder and an AT2k/Titan tank, the MS bladder would serve as a reservoir for the AT2k/Titan tank. You could hook the MS bladder up to inlet of the firing tank (instead of where the pump usually goes in) and have the MS trigger valve between them. With this system, you would pump up the bladder to capacity, open the MS trigger valve (filling the firing tank), close MS trigger valve, open firing tank (firing the dart), and then re-open the MS trigger valve, close, fire, etc until the MS bladder was empty.
This is the basis for several Semi Auto AT2k mods on this site, and even the inspiration for some Semi-Auto titans, though I think in practice, the Titan tank is only able to get about 2 shots off with 40-50 pumps of the MS bladder. Not very useful.
#273033 New Info On Nerf Big Blast
Posted by
on 22 April 2010 - 08:18 PM
in
General Nerf
I think this is pretty good info. Maybe it should have gone in the Product Awareness thread, but a lot of news for the Longstrike and Deploy got their own threads, so I think you're safe.
From the bits and pieces coming in, this sounds like a new automatic system from Nerf. If its got '50' in the name, that probably means its belt fed, but the fact that 18 round clips have been seen is interesting. Maybe it will be able to support both belts and clips?
Either way, I hope its not just a re-shelled vulcan.
From the bits and pieces coming in, this sounds like a new automatic system from Nerf. If its got '50' in the name, that probably means its belt fed, but the fact that 18 round clips have been seen is interesting. Maybe it will be able to support both belts and clips?
Either way, I hope its not just a re-shelled vulcan.
#272912 Singled Doubleshot Mod
Posted by
on 21 April 2010 - 03:57 PM
in
Modifications
Bah yeah. I was thinking 1/2" Cpvc in 1/2" PVC. I've used a 5/8" drill bit to bore out PVC a few times so I kinda assumed that he was using it, and I was surprised to see no boring necessary. /Fail
Black CPVC? I dont think my 1/2" cpvc fits in 3/4" cpvc. Pretty nifty you didn't have to sand the barrel, or bore out the outside of the breech.
1/2" CPVC easily fits inside 3/4 CPVC with little bit of wiggle room.
#272861 Singled Doubleshot Mod
Posted by
on 21 April 2010 - 12:14 AM
in
Modifications
Wow, this is a pretty neat first write up.
I think some more pictures towards the middle would have helped, but I understand what you were saying about not being able to hold it open and work a camera.
I really like the breech tab, looks so natural.
Black CPVC? I dont think my 1/2" cpvc fits in 3/4" cpvc. Pretty nifty you didn't have to sand the barrel, or bore out the outside of the breech.
I'm gonna guess that an 18" barrel is too long for this application. Springers with much higher airoutput (LS, BB, +Bow) don't even take that much. My suggestion would be to cut it off an inch or 2 at a time and see if it keeps helping. Once it stops helping, stop cutting. Of course you want to do a lot of trials at each length, and do an average. Hopefully that's not too much math for ya
(Just playing around, no offense meant).
Overall looks like a pretty solid gun, and a nice write up.
I think some more pictures towards the middle would have helped, but I understand what you were saying about not being able to hold it open and work a camera.
I really like the breech tab, looks so natural.
Black CPVC? I dont think my 1/2" cpvc fits in 3/4" cpvc. Pretty nifty you didn't have to sand the barrel, or bore out the outside of the breech.
I'm gonna guess that an 18" barrel is too long for this application. Springers with much higher airoutput (LS, BB, +Bow) don't even take that much. My suggestion would be to cut it off an inch or 2 at a time and see if it keeps helping. Once it stops helping, stop cutting. Of course you want to do a lot of trials at each length, and do an average. Hopefully that's not too much math for ya
(Just playing around, no offense meant). Overall looks like a pretty solid gun, and a nice write up.
#272328 War In Mi
Posted by
on 15 April 2010 - 04:52 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Chill dude, All I'm trying to say is that these threads along the lines of "Im gonna have a nerfwhere, sometime, somewhere, with some ppl" aren't very useful. If you're going to have more details later, then just wait till 'later' to post the thread. You're alot more likely to get community support and interest that way.i just want to get something straight ....your a dumb ass if you could actually read you would know that i would be posting details later so you better think long and hard about what you said you dumb fuck
and yes this is to you nostyleguy
#272272 War In Mi
Posted by
on 15 April 2010 - 12:27 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Jesus Michigan Nerfers are gonna start getting a bad rap around here. First the OP of the "Nerf war in MI" thread (still on the front page) that looked like it was written by a 7 year old, and now this.
I'm not trying to discourage you, but any real war has to have organization and structure. Find a place, set a time, make some rules.
This 'unsure' posting is sure to get no real commitments and a ton of flak from the community.
All that being said, I'd love to attend a well planned Nerf War in my home state.
I'm not trying to discourage you, but any real war has to have organization and structure. Find a place, set a time, make some rules.
This 'unsure' posting is sure to get no real commitments and a ton of flak from the community.
All that being said, I'd love to attend a well planned Nerf War in my home state.
#272157 Nitefinder Replacement O-ring
Posted by
on 13 April 2010 - 10:39 PM
in
Modifications
I know I said "#12 or #13" but I just got home from work and the # I actually use is #14.
Danco #57 is 1" OD, 13/16" ID. The #14 is 15/16"OD, 3/4 (12/16)" ID. The #57 might be better, but the #14 works just fine and is a little snugger.
Sorry for the mis-information.
Danco #57 is 1" OD, 13/16" ID. The #14 is 15/16"OD, 3/4 (12/16)" ID. The #57 might be better, but the #14 works just fine and is a little snugger.
Sorry for the mis-information.
#272102 Nitefinder Replacement O-ring
Posted by
on 13 April 2010 - 03:57 PM
in
Modifications
Just take the O-ring to the store with you. Lowes has a size chart laminated on the wall that you can literally press the o-ring up against to compare sizes. I think you're looking for a #12 or #13 O-ring though.Thanks but I know that. I'm looking for the o-ring size for a upcomeing plunger head project.Wrap a bit of electrical tape around the plunger head in the slot that holds the O-ring in place. It should expand the O.D. of the O-ring, instant better seal. Just as good as a replacement.
#271638 Nerf War In Mi!
Posted by
on 08 April 2010 - 08:38 AM
in
Nerf Wars
I hope so, I dont have a crazy arsenal yet or anything, but I've got a few guns I wanna shoot people with 
Also, I hope this is scheduled for Saturday. I dont see many people being able to get anywhere Friday before the work day is over, and I just got an interview scheduled for Friday afternoon.
Also, I hope this is scheduled for Saturday. I dont see many people being able to get anywhere Friday before the work day is over, and I just got an interview scheduled for Friday afternoon.
#271380 Nerf War In Mi!
Posted by
on 05 April 2010 - 11:45 AM
in
Nerf Wars
I think I could do a 16th/17th 'event'. I'll be attending graduation the 8th.
As for ideas for organizing it, just be concrete. I've never been to a real 'war' yet, but I've read enough threads where events fall through because there are no definite conditions.
You have a group of attendees already, and that seems to be the hard part.
Hopefully the weather holds up, I'll be looking forward to this
As for ideas for organizing it, just be concrete. I've never been to a real 'war' yet, but I've read enough threads where events fall through because there are no definite conditions.
You have a group of attendees already, and that seems to be the hard part.
Hopefully the weather holds up, I'll be looking forward to this
#271276 Snap Crossbow
Posted by
on 04 April 2010 - 10:52 AM
in
Homemades
That looks very nice. I love the hidden RSCB, really makes it seem clean. My only question is how you reload the rscb? Take off the entire front assembly?
#271196 Nerf War In Mi!
Posted by
on 03 April 2010 - 12:41 PM
in
Nerf Wars
That looks great. Good to see I'm not the only Spartan who's got a nerf gun obsession. We need to find a place and a date though.
#271180 Nerf War In Mi!
Posted by
on 03 April 2010 - 03:22 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Hey an East Lansing war sounds awesome. I'm an MSU student as well. Where are you guys located on campus and do you have any kinda organization yet? I was surprised to find out MSU doesn't have any HvZ or any Nerf related student groups 
Been looking for a group to Nerf with for a while.
Been looking for a group to Nerf with for a while.
#271177 My Belt Blaster
Posted by
on 03 April 2010 - 03:02 AM
in
Modifications
I really like Belt Blasters and this is the best mod on NH for one. The aesthetics are nice. Have you thought of doing any kinda major internal overhaul? It seems like there is so much room in the back of the shell that a much bigger Plunger Tube could be used, but it might be tricky with the front grip bars. Also I'm not sure if more air would even help without a proper 'barrel'. I was thinking of having some kind of sliding barrel that slid into the shells via the priming handle on each shot, but this became too problematic.
Still, very nice mod.
Still, very nice mod.
#271136 The Secretstrike Internals Revealed
Posted by
on 02 April 2010 - 06:29 PM
in
Modifications
So the pressure of the incoming air into the tank is enough to deflect the 'lips' of the piston so that air can get in but not out? very interesting.
#270921 Nerf Mg Write-up *updated*
Posted by
on 31 March 2010 - 10:01 PM
in
Homemades
This looks so promising. I'd really like to see the tank expansion pressed to the limits. I've seen the Assault Magstrike mod, and other tank expansion mods, but they always seemed inconsistent or underwhelming.
The problem usually seems to be the need to re-barrel a magstrike which is a pain, or the system eats too much air to be worthwhile.
With your setup, the barreling problem is solved by having 1 stationary barrel, and the air capacity problem is solved (presumably) because you can have a huge external air source since the system will be mounted on a tripod and (presumably) non-mobile.
Speaking of which, what are your plans for an air source? I'd like to see a ridiculously over the top air tank made of like 5" PVC honestly.
I don't want to be too optimistic but with a large enough tank expansion, and a large enough reservoir, you could be laying down a constant stream of foam 100' away.
The problem usually seems to be the need to re-barrel a magstrike which is a pain, or the system eats too much air to be worthwhile.
With your setup, the barreling problem is solved by having 1 stationary barrel, and the air capacity problem is solved (presumably) because you can have a huge external air source since the system will be mounted on a tripod and (presumably) non-mobile.
Speaking of which, what are your plans for an air source? I'd like to see a ridiculously over the top air tank made of like 5" PVC honestly.
I don't want to be too optimistic but with a large enough tank expansion, and a large enough reservoir, you could be laying down a constant stream of foam 100' away.
#269420 Tetra Strike Help
Posted by
on 17 March 2010 - 12:25 AM
in
Modifications
Yeah i had to tell a friend to 'pull harder' to get the fourth barrel to fire. Its quite a stretch. Some putty in front of the trigger to expand the perceived 'stroke' helps though.
Not to derail the thread, but since there isn't exactly an abundance of TetraStrike threads available, I wanted to ask a question. Have you plugged the pump? If so, and you're pluming to pretty high pressures, can you get the gun to behave normally?
My problem is that the increased force needed to pull the firing pins is so much that it warps the trigger plate enough that the tanks either (A) open slowly resulting in a crappy range, or ( the second and third barrels fire at the same time, regardless of how slowly I pull the trigger.
I tried reinforcing the trigger plate, and did a pretty good job I think. I filled in almost every possible surface (that wasn't used in sliding) with epoxy putty, and added some coat-hangar-wire across the gap between the fourth tank and the trigger (this is where most of the warping takes place).
Anyways, it still isn't enough. The tanks can take extremely high pressures, but the trigger just can't pull them reliably. Short of machining a metal trigger plate, or designing a new trigger system, I'm not sure what to do.
Not to derail the thread, but since there isn't exactly an abundance of TetraStrike threads available, I wanted to ask a question. Have you plugged the pump? If so, and you're pluming to pretty high pressures, can you get the gun to behave normally?
My problem is that the increased force needed to pull the firing pins is so much that it warps the trigger plate enough that the tanks either (A) open slowly resulting in a crappy range, or (
the second and third barrels fire at the same time, regardless of how slowly I pull the trigger. I tried reinforcing the trigger plate, and did a pretty good job I think. I filled in almost every possible surface (that wasn't used in sliding) with epoxy putty, and added some coat-hangar-wire across the gap between the fourth tank and the trigger (this is where most of the warping takes place).
Anyways, it still isn't enough. The tanks can take extremely high pressures, but the trigger just can't pull them reliably. Short of machining a metal trigger plate, or designing a new trigger system, I'm not sure what to do.
#269121 Longshot Mod Ideas
Posted by
on 14 March 2010 - 12:10 PM
in
Modifications
So if you're thinking along the lines of something that hasn't been done yet, wouldn't it make sense that nobody is gonna tell you about it? Just go out and try it. Then you can be the first person to post the write-up and get all the girls.
Not trying to sound harsh, but the ban-hammer doesn't have a lot of tolerance for 'I don't know what to do, so give me ideas' threads.
Not trying to sound harsh, but the ban-hammer doesn't have a lot of tolerance for 'I don't know what to do, so give me ideas' threads.
#269118 Longshot Mod Ideas
Posted by
on 14 March 2010 - 12:00 PM
in
Modifications
There is already a thread called "Modifying a longshot?". There is an entire list of 'cosmetic' mods.
#269093 Semi Auto At2k
Posted by
on 14 March 2010 - 03:02 AM
in
Modifications
I think everybody is asking about the 2 pumps because you might as well just replace the stock pump with the magstrike pump if its better. You can't use both at once, and replacing the at2k one would look cleaner.
I love the idea of combining a bladder system with a hard tank gun like that at2k, but the triple part priming process seems to defeat the 'semi-auto' nature of it.
Have you thought of putting the magstrike bladder release behind the at2k trigger? With some tinkering, It seems like you could use the majority of the trigger stroke to depress the magstrike valve (untill the at2k tank is full) and then use the last bit of the trigger stroke to open the at2k tank and fire.
Put that system into an auto-advancing turret (3k?) and you'd have true semi auto (except for the whole regulator issue).
Still, what you have is very nice, and I'm not in much of a place to give criticism since I have never modded any of the ATxK guns. Wish i could find some though.
I love the idea of combining a bladder system with a hard tank gun like that at2k, but the triple part priming process seems to defeat the 'semi-auto' nature of it.
Have you thought of putting the magstrike bladder release behind the at2k trigger? With some tinkering, It seems like you could use the majority of the trigger stroke to depress the magstrike valve (untill the at2k tank is full) and then use the last bit of the trigger stroke to open the at2k tank and fire.
Put that system into an auto-advancing turret (3k?) and you'd have true semi auto (except for the whole regulator issue).
Still, what you have is very nice, and I'm not in much of a place to give criticism since I have never modded any of the ATxK guns. Wish i could find some though.
#268982 Nightraider
Posted by
on 13 March 2010 - 04:17 AM
in
Modifications
I'm a little confused about the way this gun cocks. The bolt sled brings the entire barrel assembly backwards into the NF plunger tube, thus pushing back the plunger and cocking it? That's pretty nifty, but what keeps the seal between the PVC sheath and the NF plunger tube? And where is the breech 'slot' to allow darts in? I may be missing something obvious here.
#267750 The 65-b 6 Barrel Buzz Bee Big Blast
Posted by
on 03 March 2010 - 12:37 AM
in
Modifications
That looks amazing.
Is the tek 6 turret piece actually stabilized in the 'end cap' of the BBBB? if not, would it be practical to move the entire turret assembly back to the very beginning of the BBBB tank and thus minimize the overall length of the gun by about 6 inches?
I don't own a BBBB so i'm not sure how narrow the actual internals are, but there seems to be a lot of unnecessary length of 'barrel' before the end of the blaster (in all BBBB's)
Is the tek 6 turret piece actually stabilized in the 'end cap' of the BBBB? if not, would it be practical to move the entire turret assembly back to the very beginning of the BBBB tank and thus minimize the overall length of the gun by about 6 inches?
I don't own a BBBB so i'm not sure how narrow the actual internals are, but there seems to be a lot of unnecessary length of 'barrel' before the end of the blaster (in all BBBB's)
#263900 Nitefinder Vs. Laser Finder
Posted by
on 31 January 2010 - 12:18 PM
in
General Nerf
Includes .... 6 Delicacy Darts
Wow, looks like a failed foreign attempt to use an automatic translator.
Wow, looks like a failed foreign attempt to use an automatic translator.
#262904 The First Look At The Tetrastrike
Posted by
on 24 January 2010 - 06:23 AM
in
General Nerf
whats interesting to me is how the bottom 2 barrels are noticeably longer than the top two. Not that dart fit is great with stock darts, but i wonder if it affects the performance.
Also, no vinyl tubing; its all plastic walls like a SSPB, which is sad. Not like it'd be hard to add, but certainly another step before the tanks can be used in an integration.
Also, no vinyl tubing; its all plastic walls like a SSPB, which is sad. Not like it'd be hard to add, but certainly another step before the tanks can be used in an integration.
#262528 Pump Replaced 4b With Stock Oprv
Posted by
on 20 January 2010 - 07:03 PM
in
Modifications
maybe i missed it, but how did you connect the bike tubing to the flexible pvc from step 1? Did u use the bike's hose? or more of the pvc tubing to connect to the pump?
looks very nice. how many pumps till the oprv kicks in?
looks very nice. how many pumps till the oprv kicks in?
