cheyner's Content

#291122 Should I Be Worried?

Posted by cheyner on 18 December 2010 - 05:59 PM in General Nerf

I wouldn't be worried it probably just had a rough shipment, if the gun works i think it should be fine.

Must have been quite the bumpy ride, enough to unwrap a dart and load it into the gun even.

You should just take it back. It might work fine now, but why did the last person return it?
Unless you like paying full price for something that is used.

#281178 ...

Posted by cheyner on 24 July 2010 - 09:06 PM in Modifications

I say use a plastic welder or even a soldering iron and melt the two ends together. Thats the only thing that I've found you can do when glues wont work.

When people use the term plastic or solvent weld, it doesn't mean using a deice to literally melt/weld the plastic pieces together through heat....

Solvent welding uses a solvent (chemical) to dissolve the surface of the plastic and re-harden the two pieces into one piece.

And when he says plastic welder, or soldering iron, he means literally melting/welding the plastic pieces together through heat.
Did you see the word "solvent" anywhere in his post?

Heating the ends with something is most likely going to be your only option. The tricky part will be making sure you dont push to much together, making the priming rod curve.
I do not have one here in front of me, but you should be able to use a small ringed finishing nail to strengthen the joint, like you did with the catch.

#296509 Massacre 6

Posted by cheyner on 23 March 2011 - 09:27 PM in Nerf Wars

I have to admit, I didnt read farther then the date when I said I would be there, and now I have to ask.
For the Cobras/Jobras/Pangos, they have to be at least 5 barrels correct?

Edit: Ok, just had to check.

#308685 Terra nova props = NERF

Posted by cheyner on 24 December 2011 - 01:15 AM in Modifications

You are a couple of months late, seeing as the season ended this week.
I was hoping to see a Vulcan used in some way, but considering it was shot in Australia the price probably kept them from doing that.
I do thank you for that link though, that is a very interesting site in general, and should help with a current project of mine.
I didn't realize the Recon was actually 2 hacked and glued together, there are also a couple of other things that make me think it would be pretty hard to still shoot darts, which kinda sucks.
The NF however looks like it only needs a few minor tweaks to make it still be able to fire darts.

#320919 30 round Absolver/shotgun attachment

Posted by cheyner on 23 August 2012 - 06:05 PM in Darts and Barrels

Princexbuster made a shotgun RSCB a few years ago, look for his commission thread to see his, I also know there is a video for it, but you will have to find both of those yourself.

This is what my version of it looks like:

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#284969 My Ldnr

Posted by cheyner on 06 September 2010 - 07:48 PM in Homemades

If you're shooting 1/2" PVC, what darts are you using?

He could be using mega's, or stock darts.

That being said, what did you use for the plunger head?
Is it pull and release?
Whats going on here?

#311197 Question about AT3K Manual Rotation

Posted by cheyner on 14 February 2012 - 07:07 PM in Modifications

Just rotate it as close to the shell as you can and hot glue the shit out of it.

#315923 Air Tank Tube Connection

Posted by cheyner on 20 May 2012 - 07:29 PM in Modifications

Another impressive post by MiG.

I will have to make use of this technique if I ever get around to finishing my double 4B.

McMaster will ship to Canada, at least they would to the company a buddy of mine used to work for, but that also might have something to do with it being an international company. I'm sure they would not ship to individuals in Canada.

#310356 Maverick AR Mod Question

Posted by cheyner on 30 January 2012 - 04:07 PM in Modifications

That's called dry firing, and is a great way to break your plunger tube. You need to not do that, and to protect against others doing it you need to add padding to the plunger rod, making sure to cut a hole so air still gets through, try craft foam, layer it up if need be.

You did nothing wrong, the AR's are there to prevent this, along with keeping the ranges safe.

#282357 Homemade Barrel Selector

Posted by cheyner on 06 August 2010 - 10:29 PM in Darts and Barrels

Buffdaddy, I have 2 more ideas floating around in my head that will be added when they are done, no spoilers.

ChaosRaisin, I only had one on hand, but one of the barrels I plan to attatch is 3/4 CPVC. The triple coupler came off of my 4B, so I figured I might as well stick it on the other end. So in the end, I could use one more, but I can do without. Three would be best for a better seal though.

#282416 Homemade Barrel Selector

Posted by cheyner on 07 August 2010 - 04:16 PM in Darts and Barrels

Buffdaddy, that is actually pretty close to what I was thinking for Rev. 2. Maybe a bit more engineered, but pretty close.

Silverhead, it actually isnt that hard to turn, I lubed up the foam before I slid the CPVC in.
There is a decent amount of dead space with this method, but that could easily be reduced by using 3 reducers with CPVC stubs in them, cut to match the selector. I should have taken a better picture with the hotglue in it. Before it could cool, I used my finger to turn it into a ramp, so that air doesnt hit a wall at the end of the CPVC, but rather a ramp to help direct it in the right direction.

#282350 Homemade Barrel Selector

Posted by cheyner on 06 August 2010 - 09:37 PM in Darts and Barrels

Very cool. How's the seal?

There is a slight leak in this one. With thicker craft foam it should not be a problem though, the stuff I use is from a dollar store, so its not of the highest quality. This is going on a Pango though, so I am not to worried about the leak on this one.

#310440 Maverick AR Mod Question

Posted by cheyner on 31 January 2012 - 06:17 PM in Modifications

No, that is not the place we are talking about.
The complete opposite end of that piece is the right spot though, so you are getting closer.

What you are having us check is increasing the seal between the turret and plunger, which wouldn't hurt either.

#285621 First Hamp, First Post & (i Hope) New Plunger Design

Posted by cheyner on 17 September 2010 - 10:04 PM in Homemades

Also, do you have to point it down before every shot? That's the usual downfall of an RSCB system like that.

The beautiful thing about RSCB's on HAMPs, is that they will vaccume load most of the time.

How easy is that to hold? Does the ball valve get in the way at all?
Did you make the plunger rod from scrap? Or did you modify a solid rod?
I like what you have done here, I think I might need to build myself another HAMP.

#282346 Homemade Barrel Selector

Posted by cheyner on 06 August 2010 - 07:17 PM in Darts and Barrels

A few weeks ago, Buffdaddy stumbled upon a ball valve that lets you change barrels on the fly, Buffdaddys write-up. Now, that particular ball valve is quite pricey at $15 apiece.
After seeing this I knew what I needed to do, make one.

You will need these materials:
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- A section of CPVC
- 1, 3/4 CPVC tee
- 1, 1/2 CPVC coupler
- 1, 3/4-1/2 CPVC reducer
- Some craft foam
- Super Glue
- Dremel

First off, you are going to need to make a hole in your tee. I used a "zip" bit on my dremel to rough out the hole, then used a 5/8 drum to finish it.
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Slide your reducer into the tee.
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Then slide your CPVC through the hole you made, and into the inside of the reducer. Drill, or mark a hole in the middle.
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Then widen the hole for better air-flow, I used the zip bit and 5/8 drum method again. This will serve as your air diverter.
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Slide the CPVC back into the tee and check your fit.
It should look like this:
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Then you are going to want to trim down the CPVC so there is only enough sticking out of the hole for the elbow to fit. Stick on your elbow, then mark the CPVC inside of the tee so you know where the craft foam will fit.
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Pull the CPVC back out and slather some Super Glue in the space between your marks. Then wrap your craft foam around the CPVC, wait a bit for it to dry, then trim it as needed.
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Stick the CPVC back into the tee, making sure the end goes into the reducer.
I put some lube on mine to make it a bit smoother, it isnt needed though.
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Fill in the part of the CPVC that sticks out of the tee with some hot glue to seal it, then glue on your elbow. I put a screw in the elbow, through the CPVC just to make sure I dont twist the elbow off.
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And you are done.
There are easier ways of doing this, I can think of at least 1 right now, but I thought of this first and had to follow through.
Questions? Comments?

#311618 Region Specific Rules question

Posted by cheyner on 22 February 2012 - 01:23 AM in General Nerf

Aerodynamics do come into play, but weight also plays a big part in the range increase. A 1/4 inch slingshot weight is considerably heavier then the washer used for slugs.

#284066 Orange Fbr

Posted by cheyner on 26 August 2010 - 10:45 PM in Darts and Barrels

Get white foam and paint it then.

#269291 Tek 6 Interchangable "clip" Mod.

Posted by cheyner on 16 March 2010 - 09:11 AM in Modifications

You are probably going to have to do a rebarrel if you rip out the pegs. The barrels on Tek 6 turrets are much to big for most micro's to have a good fit. If you just rip out the pegs you are going to most likely get worse ranges than stock.

#326835 Buzz Bee Panthers at Wal-Mart!

Posted by cheyner on 14 February 2013 - 05:29 PM in General Nerf

On topic, I have been trying to get a panther for so long! I have this awesome idea but it involves a panther (and duct tape), and here in Canada, kind of hard to find eh.

Have you not checked Wal-Marts in the GTA? I find it hard to believe not a single one would have them considering they have been at Wal-Marts in Canada since they first came out last fall.

#312904 Rochester Area Nerf War?

Posted by cheyner on 15 March 2012 - 06:33 PM in Nerf Wars

Depending on what way you want to go around the lake, I will be hosting one in Kingston sometime in June. You can take a ferry across the border at Cape Vincent if you go this way, makes the drive that much more enjoyable, also there is practically no wait to cross the border.

#266367 Tek 6 Re-barrel Problems

Posted by cheyner on 21 February 2010 - 08:23 PM in Modifications

Yeah I'm in the process of cutting all the barrels off, then im just going to attatch the rotation mech to the insides of the new barrels and hope for the best. Thanks for the offer but if this doesnt work I'm going to change to a Tek 10 turret which is the traditional tek turret (round posts, not cross posts).

#322373 Nerf Vortex Disc accuracy increase mod

Posted by cheyner on 08 October 2012 - 08:21 PM in Darts and Barrels

Considering they were going for range and accuracy when they made them, I'm pretty sure grooves would have been already included if it actually did anything. Its not like the XLR discs are foam footballs made for kids that still cannot spiral a football correctly when throwing them. The Vortex line has mechanisms built into them to insure the discs will spiral, they do not need more help.

#323853 Broken Guns

Posted by cheyner on 23 November 2012 - 03:53 PM in General Nerf

Must have rammed his cock in to hard.

#266364 Tek 6 Re-barrel Problems

Posted by cheyner on 21 February 2010 - 08:09 PM in Modifications

Well I'm glad one person paid attention to the post. The turret itself is one piece and the pegs are glued in from the back. So unless boiling water magically makes the barrels expand enough to fit cpvc, I am forced to thank Airsoftguy777 for confirming my fears.

#317809 Pulley system Bullpup style surgical tubing powered blaster

Posted by cheyner on 01 July 2012 - 03:45 PM in Homemades

Note that I am not sure if this will work with US materials like CPVC. My go to barrel material is the metric electrical PVC that they sell here which is much thinner, softer, and easier to bend than the CPVC that I have seen.

From this I think he is literally just bending it and it is holding its shape. Once bent and then mounted how he has, it has no room to return to its original shape. Us North Americans could probably do something like this using PEX, as it is the closest thing I can think of that is readily available, yet flexible. Stubs of PVC on the ends would give more reliable results then using just the PEX in couplers.

#266471 Tek 6 Re-barrel Problems

Posted by cheyner on 22 February 2010 - 05:43 PM in Modifications

Yeah, I noticed those tabs, right after I cut throught them last night. Thankfully it's not gong back in the tek 6
so I dont have to be too picky about the rotation. At least its rear loading now, which is honestly the only reason I'm still working on it.

#266344 Tek 6 Re-barrel Problems

Posted by cheyner on 21 February 2010 - 05:27 PM in Modifications

Ok, so my current project kinda relies on a Tek 6 turret. I am in the process of re-barreling it but I ran into some what of a problem:
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The turret itself is one peice and the pegs are glued in from the back. The rotation mech is attached right to the barrels and all I have to work with is cpvc which doesnt even come close to fitting.
Has anybody encountered and overcome this problem yet?

Edit: For future refrence, I was wondering if anyone had used cpvc to re-barrel one of these turrets before. I should have been clearer with my question. The answer to the question is to hack the shit out of the turret and hope for the best reassembling the thing.

#266482 Tek 6 Re-barrel Problems

Posted by cheyner on 22 February 2010 - 06:57 PM in Modifications

The turret is for a 4B, I'm going to post pics when its done.

#267439 Tek 6 Re-barrel Problems

Posted by cheyner on 01 March 2010 - 12:22 AM in Modifications

The end result of the turret butchering.
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#318147 Air Blaster (Rebel Trooper Blaster Knock-Off) Modification

Posted by cheyner on 07 July 2012 - 07:20 PM in Modifications

Gage, springs at Home Depot are in the same isle as the nuts and bolts, at least in Kingston they are. Canadian Tire will also have springs that should fit, same isle as the nuts and bolts as well. Home Hardware is useless for most things, and Rona is hit-or-miss. That pretty much covers the major Canadian hardware stores.
FYI, you and Curly live pretty close to each other (during the week), like biking distance close, take advantage of having another nerfer so close to you. It's rare in this province outside of Scarborough and Mississauga.

Edit: Curly, he joined CanNerf and posted a more precise location.

#326264 Singled Nerf Rough Cut

Posted by cheyner on 03 February 2013 - 12:55 AM in Modifications

I like that you took the blasters name literally when making your minimization.

#320547 Homemade Rocket Launcher Contest Submission Thread

Posted by cheyner on 15 August 2012 - 11:18 PM in Homemades

Cobra Commander.

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I know Cobras are one of the examples of what not to enter into this contest, however, I asked Draconis about a tank expanded one firing multiple rockets. He said that if I could get it to fire two rockets he would include it.

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I went for three.
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As you can see, I used a 2" ABS tee with a 4" long chunk of ABS and an end cap, all the ABS was solvent welded together. This is where it got interesting, 2" ABS fittings are the only fitting, or anything for that matter, that I had access to that fit the Cobra tank even close. I ended up having a several mm gap between the walls of the tank and the fitting once I cut the tank. I used several wraps of e-tape to make up the gap, leaving the end bare of tape, I also cut a 3/16ths wide gap into the tape down to the plastic. I used Pl Premium in generous amounts on the the rings of bare plastic I was left with on either end of the tee. After sitting for 48 hours before testing it has held air tight and strong at the joints.

To extend the inner barrel dealy I cut it leaving enough room for the stabilizer to still be used, then press fitted on 1/2" CPVC couplers to either end. I am unsure of the length of CPVC I used to connect the 2 coupler together, but it would be different depending on how far the ABS tee is inserted into the tank, I do know when all is said and done the end with the rubber grommet needs to be 1 1/2" in from the end of the tank.

To attach the pressure gauge I got lucky at first, as 1/8" threaded fittings will screw onto where the red cap is on a stock Cobra. However, the plastic will not take much stress before it breaks off, I ended up drilling it out and tapping it for a 1/8" fitting. I followed that up with a galvanized 1/8" elbow and a 100 psi pressure gauge.

I replaced the pump with a bike pump that only needed a few wraps of tape and a good push to fit in where the stock pump was. The PVC on the grip is to patch up a leak my pump replacement caused.

Ranges.
The First number is the average for the purple and pink rockets, which flew the same distance give or take a inch or two every shot. The second number is for the blue rocket, which for some reason or another just refuses to fire as far as the other 2.

3 at a time:
30psi- 55', 40'. 40psi- 60', 46'.

2 rockets at a time:
30psi- 69', 62'. 40psi- 85', 69'.

1 at a time:
30psi- 118', 115. 40psi- 128', 125'. 50psi- 145', too much pumping for a second shot at this point when I was testing.

Parts:
Cobra- $30
Pressure gauge- $4
Bike pump- $2
2" ABS Tee
4" of 2" ABS
2" ABS end cap
2x 1/2" CPVC coupler
Random length of CPVC
1/8" male threaded fitting
1/8" female threaded elbow fitting
All parts without prices I have gotten at work sites over the years.

I am using 1" aluminum tube from Lowes as my rocket barrels.

#318035 Air Blaster (Rebel Trooper Blaster Knock-Off) Modification

Posted by cheyner on 05 July 2012 - 06:54 PM in Modifications

Good work, you will have to do something with the plunger rod though if you plan on adding any springs or rubber bands to it. It will snap like a twig otherwise. The spring from these are good for adding to other blasters, they will nest under most springs.
Have you shown your mother rotary pipe cutters? They are safer than most other kinds.

Also, you live where about 99% of the wars in Canada happen, you should click the link in my signature and join, at least half of the wars only get posted there.

#313698 Non-Nerf forsaken angel and friends footage

Posted by cheyner on 29 March 2012 - 02:23 PM in Off Topic

You can tell its old because it has pre-awol Crooked in it.

#267704 The 65-b 6 Barrel Buzz Bee Big Blast

Posted by cheyner on 02 March 2010 - 10:36 PM in Modifications

I was sitting around one night when I just happened to look at a Tek 6 turret that was laying next to a Big Blast, when I noticed the Tek 6 turret is the same size as the opening in the front of the Big Blast. Right away I knew what had to be done, that turret needed to go into that Big Blast.

Materials:
Buzz Bee Big Blast
Tek 6 Turret (I suggest one that does NOT have cross style posts)
6ish feet of cpvc (much, much less if you use another barrel material)
4ish inches of 1/2" pvc
1 cpvc coupler
1 cpvc street elbow
1 pvc coupler (or whatever you use to couple a Big Blast)
Glue of some sort
Dremel

First start with your turret. I highly suggest NOT using one with cross style posts. These turrets are one solid peice with the posts glued from the back.
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Remove the screw from the front and take out the star shaped peice, this will be important so dont lose it. Now remove the posts with your desired method. I twisted off the posts and then hammered out the rest with a metal rod I had lying around. You have now created your perfect rear loading holes in the back of the turret. You will also notice that the rotation mech is attatched to the barrels. This is why you dont want to use this turret if you can avoid it. Huge pain in the ass.
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Time to bust out the dremel. Basically cut off everything, try and save as much of the slots that the rotation mech slides in as you can. I noticed these too late, and as such mine are a bit short, well the perfect length, but i wish they were just a bit longer. To remove the rotation mech just cut around the hole the screw goes in and it should fall right out. In the end you should have this:
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The second star shaped piece has been stolen from another Tek 6. It's more or less a cosmetic peice on this style of turret so it will not be missed on a stock blaster. Enlarge the hole so that the screw can fit through it.
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Cut a length of cpvc, the length depends on your screwdriver. Cut it as long as the shaft on your screwdriver.
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Sand down the ends so that your star shaped peices can fit on. Glue them in place, you now have a good length barrel spacer.
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Picture limit

#267962 The 65-b 6 Barrel Buzz Bee Big Blast

Posted by cheyner on 04 March 2010 - 12:17 AM in Modifications

Is the tek 6 turret piece actually stabilized in the 'end cap' of the BBBB? if not, would it be practical to move the entire turret assembly back to the very beginning of the BBBB tank and thus minimize the overall length of the gun by about 6 inches?
I don't own a BBBB so i'm not sure how narrow the actual internals are, but there seems to be a lot of unnecessary length of 'barrel' before the end of the blaster (in all BBBB's)

Once I get ahold of some e-putty it will be supported on the lip, it more or less just needs to have a slot built. It's literally like Buzz-Bee was going to do this themselves, the turret is a perfect fit.
And you could easily move this back with some more cutting, as is I can pull the whole thing off and stick it on any other gun with a 1/2 inch pvc coupler.

Sweet. Couldn't you stick some epoxy on the side of the street elbow cut (facing the rotation mech) to seal it better? It would suck if that redirection work was leaking out air. Also, at the turret seal, you could cut half of an end cap and stick it on the end, leaving an inner "lip" for a rubber gasket to be seated.

Foam was all I had handy at the time. I am deffinantly going to try that end cap idea, but instead of the end cap I'm going to move the pvc section up a hair. As is though, the foam slides much better over the glue then rubber would. I am hoping to eventually replace the glue with e-putty, or something similar.

On the topic of your barrells, I suggest PETG, possiby from OMC. All in all it seems very simple yet effective, you may.want to seal your rearloding slot so your not loosing darts into your gun. Do pics if you replace the barrells soonish.

Once there is room in my budget I will be shooting a pm to whoever is selling at the time, which would be Split at the moment. The barrels are a bit tight for an air-gun, so I'm not to worried about darts falling out.
Plus, the only things that are cut on the shell are the rear loading slot and the orange ring on the front, so darts wont go to far if they do fall out.

Once again, thanks for all the positive feed back.

#267729 The 65-b 6 Barrel Buzz Bee Big Blast

Posted by cheyner on 02 March 2010 - 11:28 PM in Modifications

However, although I've never integrated a turret onto a non-turret blaster, I wonder if the added weight in front of the blaster will detach the coupler from the blaster or not. Is there something that will support the added weight or is it alright the way it is ?

The barrel is cut off at the first plastic wall with a nub sticking out flush with the inside of the coupler. The coupler is crazy glued and hot glued to both the barrel and the shell.
I took a shit load of pictures, but for some reason none with the shell open.

Thanks for all of the positive feed back so far everybody.

#267708 The 65-b 6 Barrel Buzz Bee Big Blast

Posted by cheyner on 02 March 2010 - 10:39 PM in Modifications

Screw the spacer onto the rotation mech and start glueing on the barrels. While you do this, you have to make sure that the rotation mech stays in the tabs.
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The main reason the rotation mech is not glued to the pvc is for fine tuning. For the seal I used a bit of arrow foam, glue the foam to the pvc/cpvc on the elbow. To stabilize the turret i cut a bit of the original barrel and notched it so that it fits the pvc rotation mech holder. Foam has been glued to this as well to help put a little bit more pressure on the top. Another thing I did to improve the seal a bit was fill the back of the turret with hot glue.
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Cut the barrel off of your Big Blast and slap a 1/2" pvc coupler on there however you see fit.
Cut a hole in your Big Blast shell for rear loading the turret. Close the shell back up and insert the tee into the coupler.
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Finished.
No ranges yet, as its too cold and windy to bother.
All measurements are guesstimates.
The barrels are temporary as well so I dont want to hear about how shitty they look.
Questions? Comments?

#287974 Firstshot Overhaul

Posted by cheyner on 05 November 2010 - 04:13 PM in Modifications

This is one of the more entertaining write-ups to read, great work.

How long of a barrel are you using?

#267707 The 65-b 6 Barrel Buzz Bee Big Blast

Posted by cheyner on 02 March 2010 - 10:38 PM in Modifications

Set these peices aside, we will come back to them after we have something to hold them.
Grab the tee and cut the top coupler off. Sand out the hole so that the street elbow will fit.
I found that the sanding drum dremel attatchment is a perfect fit.
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Take the street elbow and cut a notch in it so air can still pass freely in the tee. Only on one side though.
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Cut a section of cpvc (mine was roughly 2 1/2" it can be longer, or shorter) and glue it into the street elbow. Now glue the elbow into the top of the tee. I sanded them down on the top (tee) and bottom (elbow) so they would fit together better.
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Grab your rotation mech and cut off the back half of the teeth-dealies. You can cut off all of the teeth, or leave 2 like I did. This is because the rotation mech with the teeth off is a tight fit in 1/2" pvc and I am not glueing it in, the teeth are just a little added assurance that im not turning the rotation mech in the pvc. Cut 2 notches big enough to fit those teeth in the end of the pvc. Stick the rotation mech in the pvc and cut the pvc down so that there is about half an inch of space behind the rotation mech.
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Cut a bit of cpvc, around 1 1/4". Sand down one end so that it fits in the pvc. Fill it with hot glue and glue it into the tee. Now glue on the pvc.
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Cut 2 rings of pvc about half an inch long. Cut a notch into one so that it will not hit the tee, glue this peice onto the end of the cpvc sticking out of the elbow. Cut a 1" section of cpvc and sand down one end enough so that the other pvc ring fits. Glue this onto the other end of the tee.
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Now for the fun part, the barrels. Slide the turret base over the rotation mech and then slide the rotation mech into the pvc.
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