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Air Tank Tube Connection

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#1 makeitgo

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:03 PM

This is by no means the ONLY method but it is my method which has served me quite well. Some have asked, so here it is.

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Edited by makeitgo, 20 May 2012 - 03:22 PM.

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#2 ShaNayNay

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:09 PM

Thanks, I've actually been looking around for an in depth way of attaching vinyl tubing to a tank and haven't found a good one until now. This will really help on my 4B pump replacement.
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#3 hydro cannon kid

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:09 PM

This is good but try a brass hose barb some time.
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#4 makeitgo

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:15 PM

This is good but try a brass hose barb some time.


I actually wanted to illustrate a way to connect without the use of brass barbs. Save that $8 to $10. I try to create mods with materials that most of us can afford and have access to. Plus, brass barbs for 3/8" tubing are way to big for this particular tank.

As stated at the very beginning of the write up, "This is by no means the ONLY method..."

Edited by makeitgo, 20 May 2012 - 03:20 PM.

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#5 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:53 PM

There are also plastic barbs. But this method looks sturdy enough.
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#6 chavez guy

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 06:27 PM

plastic barbs


I use the ones from McMaster. For like 2 bucks USD you can get 10.


However I'm not sure if McMaster still ships to US only, or if it also ships to the mysterious land known as Canada.
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#7 Buffdaddy

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:18 PM

US only. Those Canucks have to be more creative on a few things.
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#8 cheyner

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:29 PM

Another impressive post by MiG.

I will have to make use of this technique if I ever get around to finishing my double 4B.

McMaster will ship to Canada, at least they would to the company a buddy of mine used to work for, but that also might have something to do with it being an international company. I'm sure they would not ship to individuals in Canada.
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#9 Buffdaddy

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:46 PM

Another impressive post by MiG.

I will have to make use of this technique if I ever get around to finishing my double 4B.

McMaster will ship to Canada, at least they would to the company a buddy of mine used to work for, but that also might have something to do with it being an international company. I'm sure they would not ship to individuals in Canada.


This is correct; I should have clarified that earlier. Makes total sense for them to ship things to polar bears if they're big enough.
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#10 Guitarzan

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 12:15 AM

very well done man. Thanks again for sharing this. i am officially going to MIG overhaul my 3k and sm1.5k after already ryan overhauling them. That includes the tank reinforcements and tubing. Honestly once myself and others figure out how to fit the reinforced tanks back into shells i think MIG overhauling air blasters will really catch on.
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#11 Draconis

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 12:12 PM

US only. Those Canucks have to be more creative on a few things.



I'm surprised his adhesive of choice isn't maple-sap-based. In the absence of hose barbs, and threaded barbs in particular, I would strongly recommend using a universal type solvent weld adhesive for this application. The tanks, and most Hasbro/Buzzbee/Lanard plastic in general is ABS, while the tubing is PVC. They are not the same, but are solvent compatible. The universal cement contains solvents compatible with both materials as well as dissolved filler plastics which should help fill any gaps. It's also more flexible than the crystalline cyanoacrylate even when fully cured.
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[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
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[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?

#12 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 03:56 PM

Why hasn't anyone mentioned goop? It seems tailor-made for this kind of application.
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#13 Curly

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:12 PM

I'm surprised his adhesive of choice isn't maple-sap-based. In the absence of hose barbs, and threaded barbs in particular, I would strongly recommend using a universal type solvent weld adhesive for this application. The tanks, and most Hasbro/Buzzbee/Lanard plastic in general is ABS, while the tubing is PVC. They are not the same, but are solvent compatible. The universal cement contains solvents compatible with both materials as well as dissolved filler plastics which should help fill any gaps. It's also more flexible than the crystalline cyanoacrylate even when fully cured.

Is the red solvent weld good for that? You need to prime the PVC/vinyl tubing, right?

Also, not having Mcmaster is incredibly limiting, especially for homemades. BUT we have all-dressed Ruffles. You don't even know what you're missing.

EDIT:I've tried goop for this kind of thing and I find it doesn't like vinyl tubing. It's probably my problem, it doesn't make sense for plumbing glue to hold no pressure at all.

Edited by Curly, 22 May 2012 - 04:15 PM.

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#14 Draconis

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Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:59 AM

Is the red solvent weld good for that? You need to prime the PVC/vinyl tubing, right?


Yes, that is exactly the one I was thinking of. I don't really ever bother priming the tubing, but yes, it would probably be a good idea.

Also, not having Mcmaster is incredibly limiting, especially for homemades.


I don't know about that. I acquire most of my materials from other sources. I am a fan of Amazon's new supply chain stuff, and ebay as well. But most of my stuff I get locally.

BUT we have all-dressed Ruffles. You don't even know what you're missing.



Screw you man, screw you.

EDIT:I've tried goop for this kind of thing and I find it doesn't like vinyl tubing. It's probably my problem, it doesn't make sense for plumbing glue to hold no pressure at all.


Agreed. Goop seems fin for non-mission-critical applications, like sealing up front bushings on +Bows, but I don't even like it for thread sealing like it is actually marketed for.
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[15:51] <+Noodle> titties
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?


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