Wow, great. I love the RSCB, never really though of using one on a ballgun. Props.

I applaud you for such a nice first post. Interesting idea, too.

I have done it, with cpvc and a cpvc tee, and it really was not that hard to prime. I'm a teenager, not a bodybuilder. Blue, I'm not home right now, at a hotel, so a picture will be up soon, sorry.

Essentially, a wipeout or pistol splat gun is no different from a standard pullback springer, because when you are pulling up on the lever, a metal rod is pulling back the priming rod. An easy, tested, method would be to make it pullback. Open it up, fasten some sort of rod the the actual priming rod, and you can have it prime like a nitefinder, and be able to band it. I have done this, simply out of curiosity, and it works surprisingly well.

That sounds interesting, would you mind posting a pic?

For sure, most likely tomorrow or the next day, and I will remember to post it here or pm you, I am currently cramming for a math mid-term, so I cannot exactly take a picture. I will also be bringing it to BAFF 5.

Essentially, a wipeout or pistol splat gun is no different from a standard pullback springer, because when you are pulling up on the lever, a metal rod is pulling back the priming rod. An easy, tested, method would be to make it pullback. Open it up, fasten some sort of rod the the actual priming rod, and you can have it prime like a nitefinder, and be able to band it. I have done this, simply out of curiosity, and it works surprisingly well.

Thats awesome. What is blocking the priming bar from traveling all the way down?

I would not try running it on 4 trust fires. I mean, you would be able to get some use out of the blaster running at such a high voltage because of the burst-firing characteristic. However, in my experience, that voltage yields an awful smell, an uncomfortable rattling, a loud noise, and pretty bad fishtailing with stock elites. Any potential range increase is completely negated. Use 3 trust fires, if that.

Also, your name is fucking fucked up. If it's named after what I think it is.

Sounds interesting, but most people like it better when you try it first, and post your results then.

Is the date set in stone? If it is held a week later, I can almost certainly attend. Otherwise, I don't think I'll be able to make it.

I will be in SoCal from the 29th to around the 5th of April. It would be awesome if it were on the 30th.

Just saw this thread. Look, I know you hate me a lot, but this is really cool. Keep it up.

This is a really great, simple mod. Nice pictures and descriptions. Good job man.

I think it is an excellent write-up because there wasn't one here before. Some noob might not know how to do this mod and now with this write-up, they will have an idea.

I agree that this a great write up, but Zorn has a writeup for this. Check his BBB overhaul. It's insane, he does everything to it.

Ranges?

That was a fail post. You should probably use some more words. Maybe some comments about the gun?

Pictures would help us. It would be nice to know how much tubing is exposed, so post some pictures using Photobucket.

I loved it when it hit her in the face. I know, I'm evil.

sweet, can't wait to make some. Got some bone stock Titans laying around somewhere....

Brilliant. The guns are insanely comfortable. Quite a primary.

man, I really like this. I am also working on my LS/Titan integration at the moment (literally, i am hot gluing something at this very moment). Mine is styled a little differently, so I can't wait to get it on the forums. Again, very nice mod. I especially love the ability to attach almost anything to the LS, due to the rail.

I wish you the very best of luck in the competition! (wait, are results revealed yet?)

I feel like most people do this sub-consciously already.

I cant stop laughing. I think this thing just blinded me.

Damn! Sexy beast. Nice job

That is fucking nice. Fully auto penetrating cardboard? Hot damn

I really like the trigger mechanism with the blast valve. Nice job.

Could the flywheels simply be lightly sanded?

Seems risky to me. You really don't want to leave much to human inaccuracy when dealing with the flywheels. It is important that they are balanced.

I am posting a writeup later tonight probably which has an interesting take on the slick flywheels.

Anyone have any of their own performance results to report on? You guys bought up over 60 of these things. Someone's gotta have something to say about it.

I will have an extensive writeup involving these motors completed and posted for the Mod Contest by Tuesday. I can record a bunch of different stats in my testing when everything is up and running. There are some neat intricacies to the mod, as well.

I can't wait to get some Li-Ion batteries.

What product are you planning on purchasing? Ultra fires?

Not having done any testing, but slugs probably wouldn't work since the flywheel needs to compress the dart slightly. The metal washers in slugs would prevent that from happening.

This.

I honestly don't see anything wrong with using stock elites with these flywheel blasters. If they are too light, hot glue a weight down in the head.

I have not run the motors for longer than 15 seconds with three or four UltraFires out of fear of destroying them so I can't confirm how long it takes to fry them.
.

I have about 12 of these motors, and I am willing to test the time it takes for them to burn out while receiving current at 12 and 16 volts. I will post a video on this thread with that test later
tonight, assuming my ulrafires arrive today.

The rear loading is the sexiest thing I have ever seen on a big blast. Dude, you have accomplished something great.

My personal favorite LS mod. Congrats and props. Working on this at the moment. Just to clarify, the piece of cpvc inserted into the chamber is only used to stabilize the coupler, then is removed after the coupler is glued on firmly? Am I correct on that assumption?

Nice, simple mod. Good writeup. It was pretty easy to follow.

Sweet, nice. I love 1" PETG. I have so much of it.

Awesome. Not much of a painter myself but that method looks great. Love the PAS, by the way.

Awesome. I'm really happy to see an other Angel mod.

A suggestion for the circuitry. You say didn't whether you ended up wiring the batteries in series or not but my suggestion would be to wire them in series and parallel. Make maybe 3 parallel branches, each with their own two batteries in series. You get the current to your gun from one branch at a time, and then when one dies out the next kicks in. Just a thought, and something I have been working on with my motion sensor.

Otherwise, I love it. Very creative, especially in terms of the dual-automatic nature.

Beautiful! I have been waiting for this overhaul, based on your photobucket pictures, I knew one an Sm3k mod was coming up. Great. Time to put mine to use.

Woa, awesome. Love the plunger build. The wire setup is really interesting, glad it works.

1) It's a non-NIC group, I.E. little hardcore modding, stock darts, mostly casual players.
2) You can use homemades and/or modded blasters if they're proven to be safe by the war host. I don't know what his standards are though, so I'd bring aback-up.

Alright sounds good. I am just going to bring my modded flywheel blasters and hope they are deemed safe. I doubt anyone will have a problem. Thanks

If I was you I'd just join the group.

Yea, I requested access.

I am not a member of the page yet so I can't post there directly. Few questions:

Is this a Nerfhaven group? Like, are these guys modders and part of the forums? It doesn't matter to me either way. I am just wondering what to expect in terms of blasters, modded vs. stock.

I saw on their checklist that only stock darts are allowed. Does this mean only stock blasters can fire them? I am not planning on bringing anything over the top. Only a few modded flywheel blasters and probably a crossbow.

If this is a modded war and people are using modded blasters, I will definitely be there this Sunday for the next event. If not, I probably won't make the drive just for a stock war.

Also, how many people usually make it to these events? Like 8ish?

Dude looks amazing! Looks like a lot of fun when you get it working right. A++

Thanks man.

$7 for 2 tubes? At my Petco it was $7 for 3 feet. How long were each of the tubes?

The pack came with 2 1 foot long tubes and 10 feet of vinyl tubing.

Alright, after receiving the gun and all the materials, I decided that for this mod, I should contribute to the community through a writeup, so here it goes. Hope this makes it to the directory . This writeup is in no way completed, but I decided to post what has been done so far and call it part one, then wrap it up in a part 2 writeup which will most likely come tomorrow afternoon. The purpose of this mod is to turn a comfortable, smallish sidearm into an effective primary. But, I do not plan to use this as a primary, I created this solely for the purpose of using the R.S.C.B clip on a sidearm. In case this fails, I preformed the first prototype on the orange one, because the green one kicks ass. The gun stock:



Crack her open. Dont forget these two screw, one on the front and one under the priming handle.





The stock internals.




Now comes the unique part of this mod, or, the icing on the cake. The plunger tube. Head over to PETCO and grab yourself some 1 inch PETG. This stuff is used for vaccums in fishtanks, and comes with two tubes per pack. The larger tube (in diameter) is the one you want. The pack was $7.00, and I got two tubes and an ass load of vinyl tubing. Pretty good deal, I think. Here is the stock PT compared to the replaced, 1 inch PETG tube.



Now, what you want to do is grab a nitefinder plunger tube, and cut the PETG to the length of two nitefinder plunger tubes. You can do this with the stormfire PT as well, but it is easier with the nitefinder one because the barrel comes off without sawing, so you can get a preciser measurement. If you do use the stormfire plunger tube for marking the length of the PETG, make sure to mark it from the end of the gray piece, not the barrel or air restrictors.



In this picture, I have cut the plunger tube to the correct length, and then jammed a CPVC coupler into a PVC coupler, then electrical taped the exposed CPVC coupler until it was airtight in the 1 inch PETG.



Now, after making sure your new CPVC/PVC coupler contraption is snug in the end of the plunger tube, drill a hole straight through all of it, like this:



Apply some plumbers goop to the seal where the coupler and plunger tube meet, then run a bolt through the drilled hole, like so:


Yes, I do plan to cut off the excess bolt sticking out. Now, we must move onto the plunger rod/head/springs. First, we will focus on the plunger rod. What I have done is temporary, because my Mcmaster replacement plunger rod has not arrived, but it will suffice, and will undoubtably give great results. I resorted to splicing up two nitefinder plunger rods and combining them. This is how I did it:

Sorry, no spoon-feeding pictures for this part, but you will understand when you see the finished product.


1. Take one nitefinder plunger rod and cut off the back handle that you hold while priming.
2. Cut a notch where the handle used to be. Make the notch large enough to fit the nub that connects the head to the rod on the other plunger rod.
3. Test fit the nub into the notch, and when it is nice and snug, put it in a vice grip and drill a hole from top to bottom, therefore, drilling through both rods. Yes, confusing.
4. I then ran a small metal rod through the hold, and secured it with loctite epoxy. Here is a picture from top view.



The black dot is the small metal rod that I ran through the hole. Obviously, if that was too confusing for you, the mcmaster replacement rods will be 10 times easier.
Now, we need to fill one of the catch noteches with putty. You must fill in the one closest to the handle you hold while priming, so the catch skips over that and engages at the next notch on the other rod. A pic of my filled in catch notch:



The amount of putty that you see in this picture was not enough, and I did end up adding more later, but you hopefully get the point.Now, onto the springs. Ideally, we would use a cut down [k26], but those were included in my order with the rods, so they are not here either . So, what I used in the meantime is a stretched NF spring combined with a strechted LSFG spring, and then an ace #49 spring. Clarifying pictures:


Now we continue on to the plunger head. The great news is that both nitefinder/stormfire plunger heads have a beautiful fit the 1 inch PETG. The bad news is that I was planning on replacing the plunger head, but those pieces are coming in the infamous Mcmaster order. aww. Well, it is not a problem, because the stock head fit is amazing.


The only thing left to do to the plunger head is e-tape, another o-ring, and some lube, but if you are attempting this mod, you will agree that it hardly needs any of that due to the stock fit. I decided to lube it anyways. I found this amusing:


Now, we must work on the shell. First off, cut it down like so:


i decided to leave the dart holders because it was not neccessary to remove them and it might be useful for a 2k integration sometime in the future. And now, to wrap up part one, dremel the living shit out of the inside of the shell, where the plunger tube goes. Do this until it fits. It did not take me a super long time, just be careful not to dremel through the shell.

Alright, that about does it for part 1 of this writeup. Forgive my spelling, for this entire thing was posted from my phone. Yes, that was painful. Expect part 2 sometime tomorrow, and expect and update when the infamous mcmaster order arrives. Also, excuse the shitty pics, my camera broke and these were taken by and old backup camera.