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Supermaxx 3000 Overhaul

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#1 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 05:24 PM

I recently got my hands on an SM3K. The internals are pretty similar to the way an AT3K is setup. When these things are stock, they are pretty awful. The seal from the turret to the air tank doesn't really exist. I also wanted to make this rear-loading, seeing as it's only fitting with the rest of my mods lately.

This mod applies to both the Green and Yellow versions. I haven't opened up the Blue, but I'm sure this mod can be applied to it as well.

Note: Some of the pictures are shitty since I'm using a shitty camera. I apologize.

Open up your stock blaster.

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Here are some internal shots for reference.

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Close up of the rotation mechanism.

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So the first thing I did was basically gut the blaster. I'm removing the mechanical auto rotation mechanism. If it was an air-op 3k my plans would have totally changed. Keep in mind this blaster is pretty old and the plastic is brittle. The sound of the plastic crunching with the auto rotation mech would drive me crazy. You can keep your auto-rotation if you'd like.

First thing we're going to do is increase the pump stroke by a little.

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You'll have to cut the track for the pump a little further back, to about that wall of plastic. I moved the pump back to increase the stroke. You'll also have to dremel/file down this part, which is where the pump will sit.

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I also made the tubing external in case I want it to be semi-auto. I drilled a hole for the pump to fit through the shell. This is what it should look like.

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Next, you'll need to cut down the pump handle. I used a hacksaw and cleaned it up with a dremel.

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In order for the pump handle to go back further, you'll have to remove the trigger guard too. I didn't like it anyway.

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Now onto modifying the turret. This is pretty easy and nothing different from re-barreling any other blaster. I did this turret a couple weeks ago, so I don't have any pictures of the process. I dipped to turret in near-boiling water to remove the solvent weld. If you're luckily, the solvent weld is mostly gone and you can pry it apart with your hands or a vise. Open up the back holes where you're barrels will be to either 1/2" or 9/16". Insert your barrel material of choice. I wrapped the PETG in some electrical tape to hold them in there.

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I ran out of PETG, but more is coming in the mail this week. So at the moment it only has three barrels.

Strip your airtank until it looks like this.

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Cut out a washer out of 1/4" thick rubber sheeting. You can use various combinations of materials for this part, but 1/4" rubber fits nicely between the tank and the turret.

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Make sure you glue the spring on the firing pin. This gives you a better trigger pull and helps to release the air faster.

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Since my tubing is external, I drilled a hole for the vinyl tubing in the faux tank.

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Next, glue down the rotation mechanism like so. You can also choose to use a stronger spring for the rotation mechanism.

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*Picture limit - do not post

Edited by Ryan201821, 07 January 2010 - 01:06 AM.

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#2 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 05:27 PM

And you're done.

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Don't forget to cut the rear-loading holes. Later I'll probably stick a piece of PETG to align the rear-loading slots better.

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==============================

Closing thoughts and comments:

After these modification, I'm now getting roughly 90-100' with Slug darts, and 110'+ with slingshot weighted darts. These were done with five pumps. I'm very happy how it turned out. In the future I might want to replace the pump. While the 3K has a decent pump, it's a little wide and gets hard to pump past three or four pumps. Since this thing is so old, the plastic doesn't like when you pump it over three or four times. It feels like it's about to break in half. I'll probably try some other pumps as soon as I get more PETG and rebarrel the rest of the turret. But for now, it's still awesome.

That is all, Good day.
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#3 Banshee

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 05:34 PM

Wow, I did pretty much the exact same thing like 2 months ago, kept the auto rotation and didn't do a pump, but I have the rear load, perfect seal, and it hits over 100' consistently. These guns are very underrated. Nice work on beating me to posting it. Haha.
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#4 Slayer of OnE

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 05:37 PM

You turned a relatively shitty blaster into a respectable primary. Props.

Very clean as well.

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#5 Eh Watt

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 05:56 PM

First the Airtech line, now the Supermaxx line? WHAT NEXT?! Great job, as per the usual Ryan.
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#6 Soothsayer

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:06 PM

I personally was never detoured away from this gun because of it's potential or capabilities, I just really hate the shape of it, and it's just so damn ugly. Different strokes.


Great work either way. Did you plan on painting it? I'd say painting the big bird colored fake tank some other color and just cleaning the black parts of the gun with armorall would make this thing pop.
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#7 rork

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:07 PM

Not half bad. I have one of these coming in, and will post my thoughts when I tackle it. I have no idea whether or not it's air-op, but one can hope... My main concern is that these look difficult to aim with any degree of accuracy.
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#8 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:19 PM

Not half bad. I have one of these coming in, and will post my thoughts when I tackle it. I have no idea whether or not it's air-op, but one can hope... My main concern is that these look difficult to aim with any degree of accuracy.

It's not difficult to aim at all. The top barrel is the one that fires. There's a clear path you can aim down. I think it's easier to aim than the AT2K, or 3K, since both of those fire out the bottom barrels.

And yes, I do plan on painting it later. Maybe I'll have Merz paint it.
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#9 Phree Agent

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:20 PM

I'm not sure if all these guns are like this, or if the previous owner of mine was just violent with his blasters, but the screw post that goes through the pump (the one that actually pulls/pushes the pump) is broken. I'm sure there is an easy way to reinforce this piece. Just thought I would share this prior to it possibly breaking.

Other than that, excellent work as usual. The aesthetics of this gun are what push me away from even wanting to mod mine (and the blue one is even uglier) *cringe*.
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#10 Bedhed117

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:23 PM

Honestly I don't understand why you're not a contributer yet. You've completely revolutionized turreted air guns. How comfortable is that purple pump handle, though? It sort of looks like it would be really awkward to use if your hand was larger than a golf ball.
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#11 dubcwill

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:34 PM

You're getting 5 pumps out? Is that too much? In my experience, 4 can pop it over time.
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#12 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:40 PM

The pump handle is okay. I'll probably replace it when I replace the pump.

5 pumps isn't too many. Works just fine. However reinforcing the tank isn't a bad idea. I'll eventually do that too.
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#13 HOTH

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:53 PM

Beautiful! I have been waiting for this overhaul, based on your photobucket pictures, I knew one an Sm3k mod was coming up. Great. Time to put mine to use.
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#14 Merzlin

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:44 PM

And yes, I do plan on painting it later. Maybe I'll have Merz paint it.

I'm down for that.
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#15 Hi Yah

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:50 PM

Nice job. What's next? Sm1k perhaps?
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The yellow balls are also slightly smaller in diameter than the green ones.

#16 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:56 PM

Nice job. What's next? Sm1k perhaps?

As soon as I can find one for a reasonable price, yes.
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#17 Keith

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 08:21 PM

I'm not sure if all these guns are like this, or if the previous owner of mine was just violent with his blasters, but the screw post that goes through the pump (the one that actually pulls/pushes the pump) is broken. I'm sure there is an easy way to reinforce this piece. Just thought I would share this prior to it possibly breaking.

Other than that, excellent work as usual. The aesthetics of this gun are what push me away from even wanting to mod mine (and the blue one is even uglier) *cringe*.


I've found 2 of the blue versions at my thrift store. One has the exact same damage you described. Probably just a common weak point on these. Seems like I'd read that somewhere else too.

Might have to try some of these mods on 'em, thanks Mr. Mcnumbers.
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#18 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 08:29 PM

One of the other Green versions I have broke at the same spot. When I replace the pump I'll be making a new pump handle that is a sturdier and more comfortable.
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#19 Banshee

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 09:07 PM

While we're still on the topic of this overhaul, I'd like to post some pictures of the SM3K I overhauled very similarly. If you don't mind that is. If you do mind, let me know I'll take them down.

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Same basic mods, I used PVC pipe for stabilizing the barrels. It made it kind of front heavy, but its very comfortable.

Edited by Banshee, 04 January 2010 - 09:07 PM.

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#20 Samzilla

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 10:03 PM

Props for getting a great mod up for the yellow and green ones. If anyone is looking for a mod for the blue one I think this is pretty similar besides the rearloading and it reinforces the pump. http://nerfhaven.com...c=17642&hl=sm3k Still very nice finding a way to rearload on this one. Is it possible to add more rearloading holes.
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#21 Ryan201821

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 10:09 PM

Yes, I could cut a hole in the shell and add more rear-loading holes. I might do that since the holes I have now are a little difficult to load darts. Especially short ones.
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#22 sublimedom777

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 12:52 AM

If I might pick your brain Ryan (or anyone who has insight I guess), what would you have done with one that had an air powered rotation mech?

I have one that I've been trying to figure out what to do with. I had figured on trying rear loading, but didn't know what else to try.

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#23 Ryan201821

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 01:11 AM

Make it semi-auto.
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#24 flamincows

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 03:39 AM

Yes, I could cut a hole in the shell and add more rear-loading holes. I might do that since the holes I have now are a little difficult to load darts. Especially short ones.


I was going to ask about that. It looks like there is quite a bit of space between the hole in the shell and the turret. This is my only issue with rear-loading turreted blasters; if I have to use my pinky to push the darts into the barrels, ramrodding might be a hair faster anyway.

Dom: if you actually manage to create a semi auto SM3k, we might have to talk about legality issues. I mean I know we don't like to ban overpowered blasters, but common, that's rude.
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#25 Ryan201821

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 04:23 AM

I was going to ask about that. It looks like there is quite a bit of space between the hole in the shell and the turret. This is my only issue with rear-loading turreted blasters; if I have to use my pinky to push the darts into the barrels, ramrodding might be a hair faster anyway.

As I stated in the original post, I'm most likely going to put a small piece of tubing in there to make it a little easier. If that doesn't work, I'll probably cut a hole in the shell like I did with the 3K. It makes it very easy to reload. I could do it on both sides if I wanted to as well. Ramrodding eight barrels is not fun.

Dom: if you actually manage to create a semi auto SM3k, we might have to talk about legality issues. I mean I know we don't like to ban overpowered blasters, but common, that's rude.

What are you talking about, that would be awesome.
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