I can't imagine the batteries would run out that quickly. I've got the Vulcan and I've fired many, many belts through it and the batteries are still going strong. That's the advantage of having those huge D batteries in there, lots of mAh.
I think for what you get with this (3 extended clips + (possibly) 1 standard clip, shield, foregrip) this blaster is totally worth $50. I'll definitely be picking one up when it comes out.
MavericK96's Content
There have been 171 items by MavericK96 (Search limited from 12-May 97)
#280640 Stampede Official Nerf Demo Coverage
Posted by
on 18 July 2010 - 09:52 PM
in
General Nerf
#334952 Nerf Centurion - Streamline/elite conversion
Posted by
on 21 October 2013 - 05:52 PM
in
Modifications
Would love to snag one of these at about half that price.
#320560 N-Strike Elite Stockade Review
Posted by
on 16 August 2012 - 12:21 PM
in
General Nerf
Any idea if it is possible to use the Trustfire Lithium Ion batteries with this thing's motors to overvolt? Barricade had some good results with that.
#285111 Is The Nerf Tactical Vest Worth The $30?
Posted by
on 08 September 2010 - 07:34 PM
in
General Nerf
The clear mags only seem like they would be useful if you had a Clear series blaster. Otherwise, most of the mag is up inside the blaster and you can't see the dart count anyway.
Might be cool for the 18-round extended mags, though.
Might be cool for the 18-round extended mags, though.
#281888 Is The Nerf Tactical Vest Worth The $30?
Posted by
on 02 August 2010 - 07:30 PM
in
General Nerf
I'd like to know how big this thing is, measurement-wise. Like, is it only made to fit 10-year-old kids, or can it be adjusted for decent-sized young adults?
#288505 New Nerf Gun
Posted by
on 16 November 2010 - 10:15 PM
in
News
This blaster is already available in stores in Australia. It's semi-automatic and the voltage can be upped to 11volt. At 12volt, however, there seems to be a shut off switch IN the motor (I was a t a mod party where these were going around). This blaster gets about the same range as a well modified maverick. Here it retails for about 35AUD which is pretty close to USD because your economy sucks... I believe it also has flywheels that run vertically not horizontally. Only for use with suctions and screamers, you'll have to put e-tape on those wheels for use with streamlines and stefans.
Thanks,
Hamish
I certainly hope it's not 35 USD. Seems ridiculously expensive for that.
Hopefully it's more like 20-25 USD.
#288563 New Nerf Gun
Posted by
on 18 November 2010 - 03:41 PM
in
News
Wow, $17 is a much better price than I expected. Probably will pick up 1-2 of these when they hit stores.
Also, the momentary switch thing has been done: http://nerfsg.freefo...uide-t1945.html
Also, the momentary switch thing has been done: http://nerfsg.freefo...uide-t1945.html
#285497 Nerf Barricade - Reviews & Internals Guide
Posted by
on 16 September 2010 - 12:19 PM
in
General Nerf
Thanks for the write-up, SGNerf. I'm curious to see what, if anything, can be done to improve this blaster. 
#285595 Nerf Barricade - Reviews & Internals Guide
Posted by
on 17 September 2010 - 03:22 PM
in
General Nerf
Does anyone else notice the recent battery power trend?
Maybe Hasbro is in cahoots with Duracell?
#332965 SledgeFire A/R Removal
Posted by
on 13 August 2013 - 04:33 PM
in
Modifications
Okay, so, as an update, I removed the ARs and it works fine now with the peg-less shells. Fires really well and has a nice "THUMP", even with normal (non-slug) darts.
I still don't really know for sure what was causing the issue, but after some testing I think I might have an idea.
I noticed that only the bottom (center) one would fire a good distance, EVEN IF there were no other darts in any other barrels. So, for example, I put a dart in one of the upper side-by-side slots, and they would fire like crap. Put one dart in the single bottom slot, and they would fire great. I tried rotating the shell, and still only the bottom single slot would fire correctly.
My theory is that after cutting the pegs out you end up with a bit of space where the AR can accidentally slide inside the rear of the dart, instead of being opened by the edge of the dart as it should. For whatever reason, even though the dead space is the same on each shell slot, the bottom AR has less "give" or something (less wiggle room for the AR peg to become misaligned) and that is why that one works. I did fiddle with pushing down the ARs a bit and it did seem that the top two had more "wiggle" than the bottom.
So with this theory it's entirely possible that, depending on your blaster, it may or may not work properly depending on the tolerance of the ARs.
If it's not that, then I seriously have no clue. It shouldn't actually matter either way if the ARs were designed properly to not wiggle around, but the center piece of the dart peg apparently keeps them stable whereas without that part, they can slip and not fire properly.
I still don't really know for sure what was causing the issue, but after some testing I think I might have an idea.
I noticed that only the bottom (center) one would fire a good distance, EVEN IF there were no other darts in any other barrels. So, for example, I put a dart in one of the upper side-by-side slots, and they would fire like crap. Put one dart in the single bottom slot, and they would fire great. I tried rotating the shell, and still only the bottom single slot would fire correctly.
My theory is that after cutting the pegs out you end up with a bit of space where the AR can accidentally slide inside the rear of the dart, instead of being opened by the edge of the dart as it should. For whatever reason, even though the dead space is the same on each shell slot, the bottom AR has less "give" or something (less wiggle room for the AR peg to become misaligned) and that is why that one works. I did fiddle with pushing down the ARs a bit and it did seem that the top two had more "wiggle" than the bottom.
So with this theory it's entirely possible that, depending on your blaster, it may or may not work properly depending on the tolerance of the ARs.
If it's not that, then I seriously have no clue. It shouldn't actually matter either way if the ARs were designed properly to not wiggle around, but the center piece of the dart peg apparently keeps them stable whereas without that part, they can slip and not fire properly.
#332927 SledgeFire A/R Removal
Posted by
on 12 August 2013 - 02:54 PM
in
Modifications
I haven't removed the AR yet on my Sledgefire, but one interesting (and kind of lame) thing I noticed is that after I removed the posts from one of the shells, the darts don't fire evenly out of that shell anymore. Which makes very little sense, since the posts don't hold down the AR pegs or anything, the dart itself does that. Basically what will happen, though, is that one dart will fire really far and the others will kind of just flop out about 5-10 feet in front of the gun. My only guess is that maybe removing the pegs somehow made the darts fire out less evenly, causing most of the air to go through one slot and not the others. However, this doesn't really make sense because I cut out each peg evenly and the darts are identical.
I assume doing an AR removal would solve this, but I'd kinda hate to lose the ability to fire less than 3 darts at once.
I assume doing an AR removal would solve this, but I'd kinda hate to lose the ability to fire less than 3 darts at once.
#332933 SledgeFire A/R Removal
Posted by
on 12 August 2013 - 06:25 PM
in
Modifications
Using stock darts...Will try slugs to see what happens, but it really is strange because the pegs don't actually contact the inside of the dart, so the friction should not be any different.
EDIT: White foam slugs work fine, but you really have to jam them down in there...lots of friction. I'll probably just have to remove the ARs I guess, which is fine.
EDIT: White foam slugs work fine, but you really have to jam them down in there...lots of friction. I'll probably just have to remove the ARs I guess, which is fine.
#251932 Puget Sound Nerf War
Posted by
on 28 September 2009 - 04:22 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Not sure I can make this, but it sounds awesome. Glad to see there are some other Nerf enthusiasts in the greater Seattle metropolitan area.
#291530 The Compleat Stampede Mod
Posted by
on 26 December 2010 - 01:20 AM
in
Modifications
Interesting. I guess you said you moved the batteries to a belt pack because of the weight, but FYI two of those rechargeable packs will fit in the back stock without any modification. That's what I have, and it feels fine (certainly not any heavier than 6 D cell batteries, anyway).
Nice job on the front barrel cut-off with the white pieces. Looks more than halfways decent, which is hard to say for some other cut-off jobs I've seen. I like your battery connector solution, too.
EDIT: Also, regarding your battery question, the two 7.2v batteries read something like 16.7v fully-charged because 7.2v is just the battery's nominal voltage. A lot of the time full batteries will vary upwards of that by quite a bit.
(And it doesn't take an electrical engineer, but as it so happens, I am one. )
Nice job on the front barrel cut-off with the white pieces. Looks more than halfways decent, which is hard to say for some other cut-off jobs I've seen.
I like your battery connector solution, too.EDIT: Also, regarding your battery question, the two 7.2v batteries read something like 16.7v fully-charged because 7.2v is just the battery's nominal voltage. A lot of the time full batteries will vary upwards of that by quite a bit.
(And it doesn't take an electrical engineer, but as it so happens, I am one.
)
#284624 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 06:35 PM
in
Modifications
Correct. It is very similar to the Longshot. I believe SGNerf did some comparison side-by-sides with the Longshot plunger and they were practically identical.
It seems to me the way the mechanism works is by pulling the entire bolt sled/plunger tube forward over the dart, while holding the plunger rod back and compressing the spring. Then, when the maximum pull is reached, the plunger is released and forces the dart out of the chamber and the entire bolt sled assembly slides backwards again to load another dart. It's pretty ingenious in its simplicity and efficiency, really.
It seems to me the way the mechanism works is by pulling the entire bolt sled/plunger tube forward over the dart, while holding the plunger rod back and compressing the spring. Then, when the maximum pull is reached, the plunger is released and forces the dart out of the chamber and the entire bolt sled assembly slides backwards again to load another dart. It's pretty ingenious in its simplicity and efficiency, really.
#284622 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 06:18 PM
in
Modifications
This is pretty easy to do, but I'll post a write-up just because I haven't seen anyone post it yet.
Tools needed:
-Small Philips screwdriver
-Power drill or drill press
-3/8" and/or 1/2" drill bit
-Time
-Patience
Here's a picture of the unsuspecting Stampede, along with the tools I used:
First off, we need to get the beast open. Remove the battery compartment first if you haven't already. Next, remove all the screws you see, which is a tedious and time-consuming process but necessary nonetheless.
After you get it open, be aware that there is a wire connecting the two halves together for the on/off "safety" switch. I simply rotated the half around to gain access to the plunger/bolt sled without having all the screws fall out and without damaging the wire:
After getting it open, you need to remove the large orange piece covering the plunger assembly. There are about 4-5 screws to remove and then this should pop off, leaving you with this:
Next, you want to remove the pieces circled in red here:
After those are gone, you should be able to slide the entire plunger/bolt sled assembly out easily.
There are two screws holding an end-cap on the rear of the plunger (sorry, no picture). Remove this to remove the spring and plunger from the plunger tube.
You will then see something like this when looking down the plunger tube from the rear:
...and the front:
Basically, this is no different from any other air restrictor that Nerf makes. All I did was take a 3/8" drill bit and drilled through the back, exposing the rear of the air restrictor:
Then, simply use a screwdriver or pliers or whatever you want to break out the dart post from the front of the bolt sled. This is crucial because the rest of the air restrictor will not come out otherwise. I tried drilling through the entire thing, but due to the structure of the air restrictor, the drill bit will get caught on it and it will simply spin around rather than drilling through it.
I then used a 1/2" drill bit through the back of the plunger tube again to clear out more of the air restrictor assembly, and eventually everything fell out and I was left with this:
Front:
Rear:
(And yes, I cleaned out the plastic particles on the inside before I re-assembled it)
And there you have it. Simple, clean, easy to do. The stock plunger O-ring does not make a great seal, but I didn't have anything to replace it with so I didn't bother with it. Replacing it might net you a bit more range, but it's hard to say how much.
With the air restrictor removal alone, I'd guesstimate that the blaster shoots about 5-10 feet further. It is also a bit more loud, but it's loud in the first place so it's not much of a difference, really.
Questions, comments, concerns? Post them below. Thanks for reading.
Tools needed:
-Small Philips screwdriver
-Power drill or drill press
-3/8" and/or 1/2" drill bit
-Time
-Patience
Here's a picture of the unsuspecting Stampede, along with the tools I used:
First off, we need to get the beast open. Remove the battery compartment first if you haven't already. Next, remove all the screws you see, which is a tedious and time-consuming process but necessary nonetheless.
After you get it open, be aware that there is a wire connecting the two halves together for the on/off "safety" switch. I simply rotated the half around to gain access to the plunger/bolt sled without having all the screws fall out and without damaging the wire:
After getting it open, you need to remove the large orange piece covering the plunger assembly. There are about 4-5 screws to remove and then this should pop off, leaving you with this:
Next, you want to remove the pieces circled in red here:
After those are gone, you should be able to slide the entire plunger/bolt sled assembly out easily.
There are two screws holding an end-cap on the rear of the plunger (sorry, no picture). Remove this to remove the spring and plunger from the plunger tube.
You will then see something like this when looking down the plunger tube from the rear:
...and the front:
Basically, this is no different from any other air restrictor that Nerf makes. All I did was take a 3/8" drill bit and drilled through the back, exposing the rear of the air restrictor:
Then, simply use a screwdriver or pliers or whatever you want to break out the dart post from the front of the bolt sled. This is crucial because the rest of the air restrictor will not come out otherwise. I tried drilling through the entire thing, but due to the structure of the air restrictor, the drill bit will get caught on it and it will simply spin around rather than drilling through it.
I then used a 1/2" drill bit through the back of the plunger tube again to clear out more of the air restrictor assembly, and eventually everything fell out and I was left with this:
Front:
Rear:
(And yes, I cleaned out the plastic particles on the inside before I re-assembled it)
And there you have it. Simple, clean, easy to do. The stock plunger O-ring does not make a great seal, but I didn't have anything to replace it with so I didn't bother with it. Replacing it might net you a bit more range, but it's hard to say how much.
With the air restrictor removal alone, I'd guesstimate that the blaster shoots about 5-10 feet further. It is also a bit more loud, but it's loud in the first place so it's not much of a difference, really.
Questions, comments, concerns? Post them below. Thanks for reading.
#284658 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 10:52 PM
in
Modifications
Not sure what you're thinking of, but there's no way plexiglass replacement gears could be even half as good as nylon.
Honestly I don't know much about plexi vs. nylon, but it seemed like plexi might be stronger, or rather some sort of acrylic sheet? I have no idea, just brainstorming. Metal would of course be the best, but most people don't have the facilities to cut metal that precisely.
#284719 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 03 September 2010 - 11:49 PM
in
Modifications
So, after some more experience with the Stampede, I have to say the accuracy leaves something to be desired. Using normal Streamlines, they can spin wildly off-center. Using my own shorter Stefans, it seems a lot more accurate and performs better as well. Sometimes with Streamlines I would get a few that would barely shoot 15 feet, and some that would shoot 30+. Not sure what the huge variance is, but it's a bit annoying. The ROF is second to none, though, for not having to prime anything at all.
#284629 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 06:58 PM
in
Modifications
I don't have any way of getting accurate ranges right now (no tape measure long enough), but with some quick testing I would say it's about on par with an AR-removed Alpha Trooper in terms of range. I tested it against an AR-removed, spring stretched Longshot and the Longshot is definitely more powerful.
Still, it has some pretty good potential. It may be possible to stretch the spring or put in a more powerful one, but the strain on the gears/motor might be considerably increased and could cause the blaster to fail.
The big draw of this blaster is that it is a clip-system, fully-automatic, compact (compared to the Vulcan, anyway) assault weapon.
The ultimate mod for this blaster would be the following:
1. AR removal/O-ring replacement/spring replacement (maybe)
2. Battery mod (rechargeable battery pack, possible greater voltage)
3. Brass breech
4. Machined steel/aluminum gears, maybe even high-quality plexi versus the nylon plastic ones that are stock
5. Motor replacement (if possible)
Everything except the gear replacements is probably doable with not a ton of effort or money.
Still, it has some pretty good potential. It may be possible to stretch the spring or put in a more powerful one, but the strain on the gears/motor might be considerably increased and could cause the blaster to fail.
The big draw of this blaster is that it is a clip-system, fully-automatic, compact (compared to the Vulcan, anyway) assault weapon.
The ultimate mod for this blaster would be the following:
1. AR removal/O-ring replacement/spring replacement (maybe)
2. Battery mod (rechargeable battery pack, possible greater voltage)
3. Brass breech
4. Machined steel/aluminum gears, maybe even high-quality plexi versus the nylon plastic ones that are stock
5. Motor replacement (if possible)
Everything except the gear replacements is probably doable with not a ton of effort or money.
#284681 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 03 September 2010 - 12:51 PM
in
Modifications
Right now I'm just trying to figure out the best rechargeable solution. Honestly the ROF with the stock 9V or so seems decent enough to me, and I think I will wait and see what SGNerf reveals with further testing (that 22V ROF is killer ) I've been looking into rechargeable battery packs for Airsoft/RC, and also high-capacity, rechargeable D-cell batteries, but the cost of those is fairly high (~$7 per battery) and the weight would still be pretty significant (the gun seems rear-heavy with standard D-cells).
) I've been looking into rechargeable battery packs for Airsoft/RC, and also high-capacity, rechargeable D-cell batteries, but the cost of those is fairly high (~$7 per battery) and the weight would still be pretty significant (the gun seems rear-heavy with standard D-cells).
#304087 New Nerf Series!
Posted by
on 30 August 2011 - 05:51 PM
in
General Nerf
These seem pretty cool (nice ranges), but the accuracy is the only problem I can see. Seems like the discs fly pretty randomly even with no wind, and WITH wind...they just go nuts.
Might pick one up just to mess around with, though. Seems like fun.
Might pick one up just to mess around with, though. Seems like fun.
#295990 Pvat V2.0
Posted by
on 14 March 2011 - 12:50 AM
in
Homemades
Having put together a couple PVATs myself, I like this design. Seems like it's easier to assemble and seal than the original design. Nice work.
#284871 New Shields?
Posted by
on 05 September 2010 - 05:23 PM
in
General Nerf
Honestly, the Stampede shield is pretty stupid and not really large enough to protect you at all. I guess if you were down to using a sidearm you could shove it on there and try to move it around to protect yourself, but on the Stampede itself it's not like you're going to be able to flail the gun around to position the shield where you need it to be.
Also, on a sidearm, it would look retarded.
How big is it and whats the size difference between it and the Manta? Also what about the Stonewall shield? Its a pretty decent size.
I don't have a Manta so I can't comment on that, but the Stampede shield is probably a little less than a foot across and maybe 6-8 inches high, if that.
#284864 New Shields?
Posted by
on 05 September 2010 - 04:05 PM
in
General Nerf
Honestly, the Stampede shield is pretty stupid and not really large enough to protect you at all. I guess if you were down to using a sidearm you could shove it on there and try to move it around to protect yourself, but on the Stampede itself it's not like you're going to be able to flail the gun around to position the shield where you need it to be.
Also, on a sidearm, it would look retarded.
Also, on a sidearm, it would look retarded.
#285087 New Shields?
Posted by
on 08 September 2010 - 02:18 PM
in
General Nerf
I do see a question of consistency if gun hits are allowed along with the Stampede shield. Probably be hard to determine what exactly got hit.
#288786 Primary And Secondary?
Posted by
on 23 November 2010 - 07:51 PM
in
General Nerf
I think once the Barricade comes out and you do the momentary trigger and Stefan mod on it, that will be the ultimate secondary of choice.
#291841 R3l Re-shelled
Posted by
on 30 December 2010 - 02:08 AM
in
Homemades
This looks awesome. The only thing better would be if you could get it working with the clip system.
#284382 Barricade Rev-10
Posted by
on 30 August 2010 - 08:59 PM
in
General Nerf
If the price is reasonable, I can't wait to get my hands on one.
#284145 Barricade Rev-10
Posted by
on 27 August 2010 - 05:06 PM
in
General Nerf
It's obviously a flywheel blaster. You can hear every time a dart is fired that the wheels have to spin back up again.
Not sure what to think of this. Flywheels are kind of lame, but at the same time it looked like it had pretty good performance and could be a decent sidearm if nothing else. Overall the front end looks way too bulky, though, presumably because of the flywheel housing.
Also would like to know what kind of battery life it has.
EDIT: If you look at this picture, you see that the rear of the blaster does not appear to house a plunger, so it's likely just for holding the pistol grip and stock attachment.
EDIT2: And I think this picture says it all. Flywheels right up in there.
Not sure what to think of this. Flywheels are kind of lame, but at the same time it looked like it had pretty good performance and could be a decent sidearm if nothing else. Overall the front end looks way too bulky, though, presumably because of the flywheel housing.
Also would like to know what kind of battery life it has.
EDIT: If you look at this picture, you see that the rear of the blaster does not appear to house a plunger, so it's likely just for holding the pistol grip and stock attachment.
EDIT2: And I think this picture says it all. Flywheels right up in there.
#284412 Barricade Rev-10
Posted by
on 31 August 2010 - 12:12 PM
in
General Nerf
Or you could do a grip 'on' momentary switch much the same way some pistols have a grip safety
http://bultransmark......ip Safety.jpg
Yeah, that would probably be a pretty quick and easy mod, and it would help a lot with not having to remember to flip the switch on/off all the time.
#285691 Insane Bna
Posted by
on 18 September 2010 - 06:22 PM
in
Homemades
Dude, it's a bow. Meant for Killing things. And you made it do what? Fire a "safe" foam projectile at someone? Not the brightest move man, that could actually cause some major harm dude. For example, a freak string snapping occurance could easily damage you, and firing it at someone's chest could injure their eyes, given the innacuracy of a nerf dart. Try it on some of the nerf glasses bro, and see what kind of harm it'll do to the glasses.
To be fair here, arrows are made to kill things, not bows specifically. The original Nerf Bow N' Arrow worked on similar principles as this (except it was spring-powered rather than string-powered, though the difference is negligible, really) and it was safe enough to use.
I don't particularly see this as being a viable, useful Nerf weapon, but let's be realistic here. Suddenly it's okay to make a singled Titan or something that can hit over a hundred feet, but not this? It's not like he's firing darts out of something with gunpowder or any other combustible.
#276077 Rsp-skeleton
Posted by
on 26 May 2010 - 03:36 PM
in
Homemades
Awesome, I'll be watching this thread to see how you did it all.
#276091 Rsp-skeleton
Posted by
on 26 May 2010 - 05:01 PM
in
Homemades
I wonder if you couldn't set up some sort of two finger trigger system, like some paintball guns have.
#276026 Rsp-skeleton
Posted by
on 26 May 2010 - 05:25 AM
in
Homemades
I'd love to see a detailed write-up of this, as it seems fairly simple in terms of a parts list and construction.
#290432 Ultimator With K14 Spring And Clear Plunger Tube
Posted by
on 07 December 2010 - 11:51 PM
in
Modifications
And just for the benefit of those that have never seen/fired one of these: how exactly does one prime an ultimator?
You "pump" the priming handle (i.e. lift it upward) about 20 times (however many times it takes for it to stop being prime-able). It's not an air pump, though, it just gradually draws back the plunger with each "pump".
#290272 Ultimator With K14 Spring And Clear Plunger Tube
Posted by
on 06 December 2010 - 05:01 PM
in
Modifications
I've got an Ultimator, but no real desire to do this mod, although it is pretty sweet.
Maybe I'll sell it, though the shipping would be murder...
Maybe I'll sell it, though the shipping would be murder...
#284196 Double Mavericks In Action
Posted by
on 28 August 2010 - 01:15 PM
in
Modifications
The Double Maverick (two guns, one grip/trigger) seems like it would be like the Barrel Break, but a lot better. Nice work.
#320946 Nerf gun motors, problems and solutions
Posted by
on 24 August 2012 - 03:40 PM
in
General Nerf
Would be cool if you actually had some info about what replacement motor would be suitable, because AFAIK most of the aftermarket motors people have found are too big and require reaming out the plastic inside to get it to fit.
#279104 Nerf Sues Buzz Bee And Lanard!
Posted by
on 30 June 2010 - 08:55 PM
in
General Nerf
Where's the Buzz Bee blaster that looks like the Disc Shot? 
#284718 Stampede Vs Vulcan
Posted by
on 03 September 2010 - 11:46 PM
in
Modifications
Vulcan sucks, stampede awesome. that is all.
Pretty much sums it up. Slap some rechargeable batteries/battery pack in there and go.
