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The Compleat Stampede Mod

Including the External Power Pack

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#1 Zack the Mack

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 01:04 AM

Old and busted.
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New hotness.
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I'll start with the basics and move on to the good stuff.
Disassemble your blaster and remove the plunger assembly.
Let's fuck shit up.

Mod 0: Air restrictors. There's a knack to killing this blaster's notoriously difficult floating restrictor.
To get this thing out, you need to enlarge the hole in the ridge between the plunger tube and barrel and push it out through the plunger tube. I used a long, thin screwdriver to scramble the ridge and knock it out. A thin needle file could work too.
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Here's the hole, post-enlargement.
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Mod 1: Basic upgrades.
Two wraps of tape is OK, but you want to keep it loose. It's more important for the plunger to move quickly than make a perfect seal.
Padding the plunger head is critical if you removed the AR's, since this blaster will dry-fire at high speed.
Upgrading the spring is a must, especially if you up the voltage. A BBB spring fits perfectly if you cut off one coil.
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Mod 2: Minimization! AKA, how to shove your Stampede into the wall!
Cut your Stampede directly in front of the side rails. The best way to do this is in two passes - start at the inside and cut out. Here's the post-cut Stampede:
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Patch the holes. I'll post some measurements soon.
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Cut it down and add a segment of the faux barrel for the ladies.
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Mod 3: External power pack.
The objective here was to divert the ludicrous weight of the batteries off the blaster and onto the belt. I took a belt pouch from an old Palm Pilot and loaded it with two RadioShack 7.2V NiCd batteries:
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Oddly, this produces 16.7V when read with a multimeter. Maybe an electrical engineer here can explain why. I soldered two battery pack connectors in series (black to red) and soldered it to a coiled guitar cable.
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In retrospect, this was not a good choice, since the ground is just wrapped around the other wire, not sheathed. Remember to use lots of heatshrink.

Now, desolder the wire and capacitor from the battery terminals and solder them to a panel-mount jack.
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Cut a hole in the bottom of the grip, cut a piece of styrene large enough to cover it, drill a hole for the jack, and glue to ONE SIDE OF THE SHELL.
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Finally, mount that shit.
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And there you go!
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Ranges: 50-75 (It still uses CS darts, after all)
Cyclic Rate: 3.1 darts per second
HvZ diddle Rating: 9001

Edited by Zack the Mack, 26 December 2010 - 01:20 AM.

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#2 MavericK96

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 01:20 AM

Interesting. I guess you said you moved the batteries to a belt pack because of the weight, but FYI two of those rechargeable packs will fit in the back stock without any modification. That's what I have, and it feels fine (certainly not any heavier than 6 D cell batteries, anyway).

Nice job on the front barrel cut-off with the white pieces. Looks more than halfways decent, which is hard to say for some other cut-off jobs I've seen. B) I like your battery connector solution, too.


EDIT: Also, regarding your battery question, the two 7.2v batteries read something like 16.7v fully-charged because 7.2v is just the battery's nominal voltage. A lot of the time full batteries will vary upwards of that by quite a bit.

(And it doesn't take an electrical engineer, but as it so happens, I am one. :P )

Edited by MavericK96, 26 December 2010 - 01:23 AM.

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#3 WicketTheModder619

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 01:22 AM

Interesting use of a guitar cable. Nice idea to make the blaster smaller and much lighter, yet still clean. Didn't know there was such a refined method to getting rid of the ar's though, thanks for that.
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#4 Phree Agent

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 01:28 AM

Maybe I misunderstood a few other threads, but concerning the voltage: Weren't people having problems with the blaster just continually shooting above a certain voltage? What is that 'ceiling voltage' where the blaster is maxed out per say?
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#5 Zack the Mack

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 01:34 AM

Maybe I misunderstood a few other threads, but concerning the voltage: Weren't people having problems with the blaster just continually shooting above a certain voltage? What is that 'ceiling voltage' where the blaster is maxed out per say?

That's caused by the plunger assembly not returning fast enough. It's happened as low as 14 volts for me.
I solved this problem by upgrading the spring (hence the BBB spring), which slows the mechanism.
You could also upgrade the thin black return spring by stretching it, annealing it in an oven, or replacing it, but this will put a lot more stress on the blaster.
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#6 BritNerfMogul

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 02:13 AM

Does your Stampede go up to 11?
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#7 Kid Flash

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 02:21 AM

I'm not a big fan of the minimization, but I like the battery mod a lot. I think you did a great job. I would have never thought of using the guitar cable.
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#8 Colbs

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 05:19 AM

I never would have thought to use a patch cord as an electrical cable! Great mod. :P
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#9 knexpert66

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 08:30 AM

Nice work yet again, Zach. Its things like that that others can't think of.
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#10 thesoxfan1234

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 11:26 AM

Once again nice job Zack. I love the use of the foam stuff in the front to cover up all the gaps.
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#11 RedShot

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 12:56 PM

I want to do somthing like this now and like its been said, I would put batteries in the back where they normally are and I am not to fond of minimization but I am sure it owns zombies!
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#12 q4nailgun

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 06:33 PM

GREAT JOB MAN! I like the power pack idea. Note: do NOT try to brass your stampede! Learned that the hard way today.
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#13 Zack the Mack

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 09:45 PM

Does your Stampede go up to 11?

Unfortunately, this one only goes to about 8.5. I'm working on another addition that will bring it up there.

I never would have thought to use a patch cord as an electrical cable! Great mod. :D

Thanks bra. I wouldn't recommend it, since it's not designed to solder. In retrospect, a 1/8" cord would have been a better choice, since both wires are sheathed.

Once again nice job Zack. I love the use of the foam stuff in the front to cover up all the gaps.

It's not foam, it's 1/8" styrene plastic. It's flexible, really cheap, easy to cut, and holds adhesives well. You can get it at hobby stores. Popatachi clued me in to this material, although he prefers the thinner 1/16".

GREAT JOB MAN! I like the power pack idea. Note: do NOT try to brass your stampede! Learned that the hard way today.

What went wrong? I was thinking of doing an Angel-Breech-like design in the future.

Edited by Zack the Mack, 26 December 2010 - 09:46 PM.

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#14 q4nailgun

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 10:29 PM

Does your Stampede go up to 11?

Unfortunately, this one only goes to about 8.5. I'm working on another addition that will bring it up there.

I never would have thought to use a patch cord as an electrical cable! Great mod. :D

Thanks bra. I wouldn't recommend it, since it's not designed to solder. In retrospect, a 1/8" cord would have been a better choice, since both wires are sheathed.

Once again nice job Zack. I love the use of the foam stuff in the front to cover up all the gaps.

It's not foam, it's 1/8" styrene plastic. It's flexible, really cheap, easy to cut, and holds adhesives well. You can get it at hobby stores. Popatachi clued me in to this material, although he prefers the thinner 1/16".

GREAT JOB MAN! I like the power pack idea. Note: do NOT try to brass your stampede! Learned that the hard way today.

What went wrong? I was thinking of doing an Angel-Breech-like design in the future.

Darts will jam.
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#15 Niteshot

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Posted 27 December 2010 - 02:53 PM

Awesome mod. Does minimization effect range?

EDIT: I also have a question regarding the BBB Spring. I have an AR removed stampede that I'm currently running at 12.5 volts. The BBB spring doesn't work, the gun wants to fire, but stops when the breech traveled halfway. Is it necessary to have a higher voltage?

Edited by Niteshot, 27 December 2010 - 10:34 PM.

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QUOTE(VACC @ Dec 7 2010, 10:31 AM) View Post

For the love of fuck. The next person who announces that they are using something in their signature, ever, is banned. I fucking hate you.

#16 Phree Agent

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 09:17 PM

Just a comment about the BBB spring part. I tried using an OLD BBB spring and it is too tight in the plunger tube and will not work.
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#17 Inferno Falcon

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 09:51 AM

I have also experienced this issue with the 3b spring. Please explain.

Besides that this mod is "compleatly" awesome.
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#18 Niteshot

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 06:33 PM

I figured it out. Its not the voltage, its the discharge rates of the batteries. In this case, I used 12 volts via 8 AA batteries. Regular batteries have very low discharge rates compared to a 12 volt airsoft battery, which is what I used.
battery; http://www.batteryco...-1700psg-1.html
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QUOTE(VACC @ Dec 7 2010, 10:31 AM) View Post

For the love of fuck. The next person who announces that they are using something in their signature, ever, is banned. I fucking hate you.


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