I'll start with the basics and move on to the good stuff.
Disassemble your blaster and remove the plunger assembly.
Let's fuck shit up.
Mod 0: Air restrictors. There's a knack to killing this blaster's notoriously difficult floating restrictor.
To get this thing out, you need to enlarge the hole in the ridge between the plunger tube and barrel and push it out through the plunger tube. I used a long, thin screwdriver to scramble the ridge and knock it out. A thin needle file could work too.
Here's the hole, post-enlargement.
Mod 1: Basic upgrades.
Two wraps of tape is OK, but you want to keep it loose. It's more important for the plunger to move quickly than make a perfect seal.
Padding the plunger head is critical if you removed the AR's, since this blaster will dry-fire at high speed.
Upgrading the spring is a must, especially if you up the voltage. A BBB spring fits perfectly if you cut off one coil.
Mod 2: Minimization! AKA, how to shove your Stampede into the wall!
Cut your Stampede directly in front of the side rails. The best way to do this is in two passes - start at the inside and cut out. Here's the post-cut Stampede:
Patch the holes. I'll post some measurements soon.
Cut it down and add a segment of the faux barrel for the ladies.
Mod 3: External power pack.
The objective here was to divert the ludicrous weight of the batteries off the blaster and onto the belt. I took a belt pouch from an old Palm Pilot and loaded it with two RadioShack 7.2V NiCd batteries:
Oddly, this produces 16.7V when read with a multimeter. Maybe an electrical engineer here can explain why. I soldered two battery pack connectors in series (black to red) and soldered it to a coiled guitar cable.
In retrospect, this was not a good choice, since the ground is just wrapped around the other wire, not sheathed. Remember to use lots of heatshrink.
Now, desolder the wire and capacitor from the battery terminals and solder them to a panel-mount jack.
Cut a hole in the bottom of the grip, cut a piece of styrene large enough to cover it, drill a hole for the jack, and glue to ONE SIDE OF THE SHELL.
Finally, mount that shit.
And there you go!
Ranges: 50-75 (It still uses CS darts, after all)
Cyclic Rate: 3.1 darts per second
HvZ diddle Rating: 9001
Edited by Zack the Mack, 26 December 2010 - 01:20 AM.