Too many to tell, Watch the Basic Nerf Video's where I am featured.

 

YOU DIDN'T EVEN LINK THOSE VIDEOS. YOU JUST TOLD PEOPLE TO GO FIND THEM. THANKS FOR "CONTRIBUTING" TO THIS THREAD.

Noon, At Beautiful Limekiln park, 19585 Rinaldi St, Porter Ranch, CA 91326

Host Chris Cartaya.

*350 fps Mod limit, no hard ammo.
*No Super Soaker, airsoft or paintball based blasters.
*No Co2 or Compressors.
*Kid rule, players 12 and under with a blaster less that 120fps cannot be shot at by any player that takes the field with a blaster greater than 120fps.
*Zingbows, Mega's, Arrows, missles, rockets 1 hit KO.

Games:
Team Deathmatch
Capture the Flamingos (as Bob O' Bob would have wanted it)
Speedround
Pistols round.
Humans Vs. Sharpshooter

All honorable players allowed to attend, thievery not tolerated. Hope to see you there.

--Cartaya

Also, it has a really weird lock/cam assembly below middle of the plunger draw.  I have misassembled that before and not been able to advance the turret. 

I know it's far, and they are mostly Modded stock. But it's the league I belong to and they are a pretty good group of friends to play Nerf with.


https://www.facebook.../norwalkleague/

Also the NIC league out here I really like playing with, they usually war in Glendora.

https://www.facebook...oups/SCUNGROUP/

Hit em up and I'll see what I can do, I live in Saugus.

-Cartaya

This is what I was afraid of actually, that Nerf History, like all history also being in the eye of the beholder, might also be largely forgotten.  Me not being that vintage into modding (maybe 2008 with one blaster, more serious 2012 on), I always love stories from veterans like Apollo256 and Baghead at S.C.U.N meets, mostly the parts I missed before being really involved.  I even Tweaked a Sharpshooter back in my Highschool days, nothing much, mostly the Darts with the fins.

--Cartaya

I know this is almost an impossible question to answer as written in the title, but maybe more like...

*What was the first ever "effective" Nerf mod.
*What was the first "published" Nerf mod.
*What was the first Nerf mod to do the community good (not necessarily effective or published).

I was wondering about this, thinking of coming back to Nerfhaven, hey what started this all?

Hope this question takes you back.

--Cartaya

Yes, I know it's early, and I told him a date typically isn't posted this early in the year, but my Friend from Singapore (Ty Tan) wants to coordinate a group from his City/State to attend 'Geddon this year but needs a date.  I told him it's typically end of June and Ice9 runs it, but he wants more specifics that of course I can't really give him.  He was at the Last 'Geddon and had a blast.

--Cartaya

SCUN group (FB group https://www.facebook...oups/SCUNGROUP/) has wars, at least 5-6 a year usually a Prep war for Armageddon, Armageddon, A war after that sometime in July or August, a Haloween war, a Christmas war.  Yes it's a NIC group, but power is not everything, you have to bring some mad powered blaster to a SCUN war is a misconception shared amogst a lot of So-Cal Nerf leagues. Last war Ice Nine (admin on Nerfhaven) was hosting had some really great stock velocity games in between rounds where high powered blasters were allowed that were a ton of fun.  Great group, great players Usually hosted in the Glendora area, but sometimes Long beach too.  Also look at the 2016 Nerf wars sure to be listed on Nerfhaven at some point.

Last year was pretty dead for wars, Norwalk has been dead since Aaron Conception left, Basic Nerf has been on hiatus and Aaron Kemp of the Beach Cities Nerf and airsoft alliance was gonna do a war, but never did.  I tried to do a few wars, some were successful, but even with free pizza it was hard to get people motivated.

--Cartaya




 

Ahh.... this was the event you were talking about.  Pretty good park?

Going, see ya all there.

Sadly, I just got my Ticket information to go to the Jet Blaster Mod reviewer conference in Singapore and it looks like I have to leave the day after the war not the 24 as originally planned.  Sorry guys, I had my simple costume (a cat) ready to go and everything.
 

  1.MATTHEW CARTAYA/CHRISTOPHER MR                                              

  2  QR 740 N 23OCT 7*LAXDOH HK1  1605 1805  24OCT  E               

  3  QR 942 N 24OCT 1*DOHSIN HK1  2025 0915  25OCT  E                 

  4  QR 945 N 28OCT 5*SINDOH HK1  0225 0500  28OCT  E                 

  5  QR 739 N 28OCT 5*DOHLAX HK1  0755 1405  28OCT  E  

 

Me too, rolling close quarters combat this war instead of my usual antics.  Also, might try out my new X-Sentinel for a round or two.

Not that anyone cares but...Dug this up out of storage a few days ago, just for this war also and replaced the outer spring with a Rival Apollo spring and put 1/2" of a C-528 century spring as a catch spring, it's tits. 




 

No, no and no.....

1. A Rival spring is 14 kg's, nice power but is too short for a Longshot and for the plunger to compress all the way to the head of the Plunger and the Rod catch to engage the trigger catch.  Aftermarket Longshot springs are typically 5.5" of free space and 1.3" of solid space, this one is 3.5".   However, a cutdown C-882 Century spring Company spring (7/8thsx8-1/2"x.072 wire gauge, 22 coils, I love this spring) works great cut down to 15 coils, squared and ends ground and has generally the same wire gauge, coil spacing and coil pitch as a rival spring.  Rival springs are good for other blasters however...like Firestrikes...

2. and 3.  I recently worked on my friends Singled longshot, where I used the C-882 spring as the center spring and a OMW 10Kg spring as the outer spring, but also used 5/8"ths of a Century C-528 spring (3/16thsx1"x.028" wire gauge).  A pen spring just isn't the right yield for a good longshot trigger catch spring.


--Cartaya
 

I wonder How we could find any method to this madness?  I recently got a 8"x1"x.091 gauge spring 25 coils at it was called a C-884 I believe (edit: corrected).  Now this I would throw in a sledge if I could....

884, ahh thank you again. Yea that's it, I knew I was wrong.

Lets see, I wonder if I could make a spring guide for a [k26] to fit in there. Sounds like I need to get my hands on a [k26].  I do it all the time on my pistols.  Right now I have a Thunderbow Spring and a OMW 8 Kg longshot spring and I improvised by taping duct tape on the outer guide the OMW spring rests on and took the excess to center the spring.  Very similar to a #377 spring but .068 gauge.  

A [k26] and a stock longshot would be great for a Dual-Strike.



 

Cartaya, it seems like Century spring company has their own item/stock number on their website, and then another number that they give when selling in stores. Based on those specs, though, it seems like it's CSC Stock #377. Does that look right to you?

 Oh why do they do that? Yea that's the spring, good eye man.  The number I was using is the one Orchard Supply and Hardware uses. 

Also thanks for the official stats, It's hard drawn...Good to know....

...As for the Nitefinder, standard draw sure, expanded draw by moving up the PT head (recommended) probably no.  Find this spring we're talking about and learn to cut springs.  If you need help, message me.



 

The dart sensor, yea.....

Also, tip for the future, with the spring out and manually, by hand with the Plunger tube and Plunger head, does it takes a considerable amount of effort to pull? If so you have too much Teflon tape under the o ring defeating the purpose, creating too much drag upon firing. if you can get a perfect seal with little or no drag, it will be even better.
 

That is cool looking, and the green is not repainted?

Thank you for your honest opinion and assessment, Can't wait till our next SCUN war. I am having a war in Porter Ranch on the 15th of March if you'd like to go.

I don't mean to throw everybody off, I just don't like the #6 Slugs, I never have, just a personal preference. Not trying to use a different dart to claim "hey this is as far as a Stefan would go" I just like the Xplorer dart system better and trying to say "with this shooting system these shots are possible". Stefans are much more practical than waiting over a month for new silicone tips and foam and not only that, most will never try to bag people at long range like I do.

As for my pistols, half the volume, twice the yield, close to the same results. They are small, light, single stroke prime and concealable but there is a price to be paid for that, they will never be as good as a well built homemade or an Airblaster, but for me, it's all I need

The Bird of Prey Type_L

Cock

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

The spring takes a set, especially if you modded it to full closed height of the spring.

It makes a good spring to fit between a retaliator/recon and the barrel assembly, reduces play somewhat. I used to do this a lot with my Retaliator builds as well as use a pice of hard velcrow as a gasket to get that barrel assembly staying in one place.

 

He used google translate on the post. The OP's posting about a nerf war somewhere in Sweden. 

That's what I thought too, but Google wouldn't let me use the translate function before I posted that, so I thought Langley might be up on his Languages, O well. 

Greetings frum zee-a United Stetes. I ipulugeeze-a fur buotchering yuour luonguoege-a, I'm using Guogle-a Truonslete-a. Iff yuour Ingleesh is uny guod, pleese-a idd a suommery ouff yuour pust in Ingleesh. Ingleesh is zee-a primery luonguoege-a ouff zees site-a. Guod luock vit yuour ver. Yuou cuon meke-a it iesier fur Svedeesh nerffers tu feend yuou by setting yuour cuountry und lucetiun inffurmetiun in yuour Nerff Hefee-a pruffeele-a. Yuou cuon ilsu seerch fur ouzeer Svedeesh nerffers using zees deta. Bork Bork Bork!

 

Hälsningar från USA. Jag ber om ursäkt för styck språk , jag använder Google Translate . Om din engelska är något bra , lägg till en sammanfattning av ditt inlägg på engelska. Engelska är det primära språket för denna webbplats.

Lycka till med din krig . Du kan göra det lättare för svenska nerfers att hitta dig genom att ställa in land och platsinformation i din Nerf Haven profil . Du kan också söka efter andra svenska nerfers använder dessa data .

You know Swedish Langley? that is cool, but what is he saying for us Americans?

OK, try this:


Volume of tank X Atmospheres - tank /Barrel internal area= 1.7

Example:

30cc's X 3(45psi)-30cc's = 60/11"cpvc (3.211cc's per inch)=60/35.321 =1.698 = 25.48 PSI at dart leaving barrel.

You need at least 1.7 ATM to get good power, maybe more like 2.0 or 2.2 for a 1" dart, given it will have more friction.

I'll be there

 

K&S 19/32" is a really sloppy fit, since its ID is .570"

K&S 9/16" is a loose fit with an ID of .5345" which is way too loose for springers unless it's part of a hybrid/telescope barrel.

K&S 17/32" has an ID of .503" and should fit stock darts (name brand or not) really well. It did the last time I used it.

 

And no, none of them make a "perfect" seal because you're interfacing brass with brass. Even when you screw brass fittings together tightly you have to dope, tape, or gasket the joint to get it to seal pressure. They wouldn't be able to slide inside of each other if they were toleranced really closely either. You're going to sacrifice a tiny fraction of your range potential in favor of having the convenient of a brass breech.

 

I've generally not been particularly happy using brass for barrels because the downsides are

• Really difficult to glue to anything to it. Usually best to just nest it inside of something else using electrical tape instead, which also helps to mitigate the next issue...
• Easily damaged because the walls are so thin.
• Tarnishes, lymes, and gets ugly really quickly.
• An extremely smooth interior surface is great for air-powered blasters, but not particularly preferable with springers.

 

In my experience with brass, and I use brass for a lot of blasters.

• Krazy glue, Gorilla glue, bonds pretty well, also sand your surfaces first.
• Yes brass is quite thin, .014 typically, and brass is quite soft, but laminating plastic tips and telescoping 9/16th really helps. You have to be more careful with brass, if that's worth it to you, you're call.
• Yea keeping brass pretty is more  work, But Silicone spray/pledge/Brassco, not in that order, helps a lot.
• It's all I use for springer's, but Captain slug is right in a way, there is a payoff point for brass, and it starts at, Ide say 150 fps+ in my opinion.  You need a high velocity to overcome the drag I have found in my years of modding. Lower velocity blasters you are better off exploring other options.

 

 

Discuss.

Use a stronger Plunger rod such as a Worker/OMW/Xplorer PR setup, the lips hardly ever break on these...

Excellent answer Captian Slug.  And, JoeVC, I would use a [k26] before using a [k25] however, I believe you can fit 5" of a [k26] no problem but if you insist on using a [k25] which will have more precompression and good power. 

This is what Captian Slug is talking about, just simply get all the numbers together and do the math.


2.18 (coils per inch) x.080 =.1744 solid space per inch of spring at full compression x 6" of spring= 1.0464" of solid space,  that should fit fine. 
 

As for catch springs, I like Century c-528 springs 1"x 7/32" x .028 cut down to 5/8ths with a pair of wire cutters and facing the open end towards the shell.  You can get these at Orchard Supply and Hardware.  However sometimes they are under different numbers we have found, so keep the size of the spring written down not just the model number.



 

I like duct tape holsters, I have been developing them since 2012.  They allow much more flexibility in design and the sometimes odd measurements of Nerf blasters that it's hard to find holsters for.  Few rules of thumb I find have helped me...

• When making holsters for Magazines, wrap it in a sock when you measure it to allow enough tolerance to make the mags move in/out freely, but not so much that they fall out in battle.
• When making holsters for pistols, use ball point pen sleeves so that when they are drawn from the holster the front doesn't stay snagged to the blaster.
• Consider neodymium clasps rather than Velcro, it can be done if you have a high enough gauss level, ceramic is right out, just too weak.
• Incorporating fibertape (3M extreme packing tape for example) is a plus, also finishing the outer layer with Duct tape brand printed design tape, the printed film tends to be more weather/wear proof.

 

 

Going, Might have my new alpha domes by then....

Great event.


Cons:

* Slides were broken so the original part of the park we were going to play at couldn't be used.
*Sad that Bags and Apollo couldn't show, Nate always adds color and fun to SCUN wars and Apollo is just overall a cool guy.
*Moved around everywhere, but what this added was that we weren't playing In the same play area all day, although towards the end we were playing towards the trees mostly, just not...all day...
*Need to find softer Alpha domes, however not immediate as next war I'm going close quarters battle with the modded Longshot anyways, (I promised Roboman). 
*Lost every single CTF that day, but the other team had a runner I swear was on roids (just kidding) 

Pros:

*Nice park, not all grass or sand or pavement, good mix of all the above ample parking and relatively near a bitching however somewhat crowded shopping mall, always nice to have an air conditioned place to chill at lunch and after a war.
*During the second game of Blob where I switched the teams back in my favor, I did a Daffy Duck "Wooohooo Woohoo Woohoo"! Highlight of my day.
*Cannonball stepped up to the plate and delivered, excellent leadership skills which started out with him addressing the issue with the slide area and continuing to keep the meet alive and kicking.
*Roboman kept the games alive and kicking quite well once Ice Nine and Cannonball left, something I have seen many Nerf meets fall apart after...but not this one.


I guess i'll have to wait for next year to find out what all this slideball hype is about....


 

 

Can anyone, if you have one, bring a gram scale?  I have no real idea how much my new flying ashtrays (Alpha Domes) weigh.  And if Ice is showing, are we playing a round of Carpe?

I just find a dart foam I like, order them as FVJ's from China and re-head them 2 up, Minus the dart head, they fit perfectly in a Pak-D or Xplorer 18 mag.

I think I'll actually make this one. If I do, then I might be bringing a prototype homemade that will probably destroy itself/me on the field, as usual.

That's the spirit, no better time to make a built to spill blaster and test it out than now.

--Cartaya

Cam HvZ is going big this year, I am backbone admin, on the 20th committed two months ago. I would love to go but I do have this obligation. This could really drop your-their attendance levels for these events, I would put it on a different date.

--Cartaya

The nipple Stefan darts from China look interesting, but they have been pulled for some reason, they look a lot better than the ACC darts, here's their FB page...
https://www.facebook...57733731152808/


 

I've just gotta ask because the #62 Hilman is one of my absolute favorite springs, how's the power?

I am trying to make the San Fernando, Simi and Santa Clarita Valleys more active in Nerf and give people in that area monthly wars organized suited for Nerf battle.

The Tri Valley Nerf Leagues first meet, invite is open, mod limits is open to 350 fps. Eye protection and armor is recommended, especially if you have not encountered a NIC blaster before. This game is Hybred, modded stock and NIC blasters. Team DM, CTF and hide and seek will be played. Everyone who want's to play is free to play, theft will not be tolerated.

This is also on Facebook, it has certain people invited, but all are welcome to come.

https://www.facebook...11939015651078/





--Cartaya

I moved the war to the 18th of April, I just couldn't get enough confirmed players. I will Private message you so that I make sure you know Apollo.