The answer depends on the type of AAA batteries you're using, but even with lithium primaries or Eneloop AAA, 3-6 amps is a lot of current draw for such a small cell. So if it works, you won't be getting the best performance and will be reducing the life of your battery (if rechargeable).

Put me down as a remote maybe.

Stryfes are hard to find almost anywhere in store. The only reliable place they can be ordered are places like Amazon.

??? My local stores have like 10! They are extremely common on the island...

 

You must be the exception, it seems

...I just want a blaster that works and by giving me this they will create a basis that will allow me to buy extra equipment in the future...

Then listen to what others have said and forget the Deploy, because it is simply one of the least ergonomic, reliable, practical and powerful of all Nerf N-Strike blasters.

However, you said Nerf blasters are in short supply. Does that mean if you didn't have the Deploy, you'd have no other Nerf blaster to play with? If that's the case, I guess that explains your dilemma.

Also, how does using the Deploy allow you to buy extra equipment in the future? It's not the best blaster to use with add-ons, like scopes and sights. Or did you mean that by using the Deploy, you can save money, allowing you to other Nerf accessories?

Isn't the Demolisher like a larger version of the Stryfe (ie semi-auto rather than fully auto)?

You could use CPVC in a 3 shot or 7 shot configuration (assuming the 7 shot configuration fits; the 3 shot definitely would).

OP,

 

I've seen your prior posts and you seem pretty smart (unlike many other posters here and elsewhere online). Therefore, I firmly believe all you need to do is search on NH for "absolver" and look at the pictures of what people have done. There is no "trick" or special part to use. It's honestly as simple as figuring how to guide high pressure air from one opening into a 3 or 7 bundle of barrels.

 

I made my own set of absolver shells and couplers by going to a bigbox hardware store and looking at what PVC screw and friction fit couplers, pipes, tubes, and other doodads they had and just brainstormed internally for 15 minutes. I then bought a wide variety of sizes and shapes (they're so cheap) went to my workshop and just experimented with only hot glue, a saw, a mitre box, epoxy, PVC cement, an X-acto knife blade, and polystyrene card stock. Literally, that's all I did and was able to figure it out despite being one of the lowest IQ members on NH.

 

Here, look at what I did:

 

http://nerfhaven.com...0-fs-mav-titan/

 

No, I don't have the part numbers or exact dimensions, but you don't need them if you go to a bigbox hardware store and just spend an extra $4.75 on PVC parts.

 

In hindsight, I would have used a screw couple with a larger opening, but that's the only thing I would have changed.

Is Beall E.S. an elementary school in MD?

Yes, I did. Sorry.

11/6 SHOULD work for me.

I could make 10/30/2011, most likely. Sundays work much better for me than Saturdays.

Who could make it on Nov. 5th, at Beall E.S.? I think 10/30 may be too short notice, but having a war around Halloween would be cool.

Thoughts?

Most likely I can't make 11/5, but there's a small chance I could. ChaosPropel, did you mean 11/6? That would be a Sunday while 11/5 would be a Saturday.

I'm a maybe and either location works for me.

Consider me a definite

You found a pretty nice spot to camp with it for the first part of that CTF.

Can't wait to get mine in, for secondary usage.

Yeah, got me pretty good that round.

I'm interested.

I use somewhat small rubbermaid-type plastic bins that hold a few hundred darts (maybe 200-350 or so). I could use larger bins, but the smalls one are what I have and 2 or 3 containers are all I need to bring to a superstock Nerf war.

 

But yeah, to reiterate what BluesBro said, there's no need to overthink it. I suppose if you had a really big bin that was over 3 feet deep, the weight of the darts might cause them to deform at the bottom, but I've never seen or heard of anyone using bins that big/tall.

 

I have several thousand #6 and #8 slugs, a few dozen slingshot stefans (which I never use at wars!) and about 600+ Gen 3 Koosh darts.

Cool stuff!

 

What's the advantage of doing this mod over just using a lightly modded Rapidstrike, besides size and the engineering/modding challenge? (which I fully understand and commend)

Makes sense.

 

With regards to the accuracy issue, are you having whirly bird issues when using darts, like Koosh darts? I had this exact problem and to fix it, I simply sanded out my Rapidstrike "rifled" barrel. Or you can use a "straight" barrel, like from a first generation Raider.

What's a Ranger One?

From thermocouples to blood pressure cuffs to blood sugar testers, I know from personal experience and reading spec sheets that getting inaccurate and/or inconsistent results in to be expected from a consumer product and that's what your chronograph appears to be, especially given its price. I know growing up, I wondered why lab equipment was so expensive compared to what you can get from the average store. Turns out it was the equipment's level of accuracy and precision. That's a major reason why professional or mission critical equipment costs significantly more than the "everyday" version of the equipment.

 

As for whether or not your chronograph is inaccurate, I can't say, but it wouldn't surprise me one bit if it's reading lower readings than it should. I guess the real questions are whether you can re-calibrate it and if the inaccuracy is consistent, i.e. you're still able to maintain precision.

I know I'm not directly answering your question, but if you run out of juice from that battery pack you referenced in your previous thread, you must be having your flywheels constantly on or desire the ability to play for multiple days at a time without recharging...or your battery pack is really old and going bad.

 

To put things in perspective, I run a 6 cell NiMH AA battery pack (2000 mah) in my MTB Rhino'd Stryfe. After playing for about 4 hours, I barely used 15% of my capacity.

I agree. But it also looks like these darts can be a slug alternative, too. While I don't think that metal-free darts are inherently any safer than darts with metal in them (my thought process, backed by no empirical data), if trying to convince the officer of a municipality or law enforcement officer that NIC-style wars are safe, it's nice to be able to say that the projectiles fired do not contain metal components.

Thanks for the review. It's good to see a slug alternative that feeds reliably.

If a chest rig will handle 18 dart box mags no problem, why wouldn't it handle a 12 dart box mag? Maybe I'm misreading something?

 

Also, if you're going into Nerf without regard to cost (lucky you!) and you also know you're getting this chest rig anyways, what exactly are you asking for?

https://www.amazon.c...ding=UTF8&psc=1

Recommend these, cheap and reliable. Holds 12x18rounders at max capacity.

 

+1

 

That's what I use and I've very happy with it, even when I'm using it to hold twelve 18 dart box bags.

Gen 3 Koosh darts work pretty well in Stryfes (that's what I use). I don't know if they're better than the waffle darts, though.

So you have essentially 3 options.

 

1. Thrift mags from goodwills and other places. Unreliable, but cheap.

2. Buy mags from people within the nerfing community. (You could put a thread in the Trading Section). 

3. There are super cheap nerf mags on Ebay from China. Shipping is slow and the mags are of questionable quality, but they're cheap. 

Ex: http://www.ebay.com/... clips&_sacat=0

 

This. Short of a friend or family member giving your their kid's Nerf collection, this is the cheapest way to get Nerf mags. Yardsales and rummage sales are best in my experience. You can usually get 18 dart stick mags (that are genuine Nerf brand) for 25 - 50 cents a piece. But as blitz mentioned, these are very unreliable sources. Just last month I got six 18 dart stick mags for $2 at a local rummage sale. But before that, I only found about three or four 18 dart stick mags from yardsaling over the past 1-2 years. Basically, it's hit or miss.

 

Buying from the NH community is a decent option, as well. I think the going rate for a lot of eight 18 dart stick mags is what...$40 shipped? Do a search in the marketplace thread here on NH to get an idea of what to spend.

I used big ol' dump pouches on my belt.

I might be able to make it.

If you could, please let me know if you can definitely make it.

I'm waiting to see if we'll get a good showing, but I suppose it's a chicken-egg thing. In that case, I will say that I won't make it.

Sweet work. This is actually a homemade I'd consider using, since I can use equipment from my superstock set up.

Yes, the Barricade did have an on/off sliding switch.

 

I guess your playing style and electronic setup will determine if it's a good mod or not.

When I say "gear," I'm primarily referring to the overall loadout, i.e. amount of darts, mags, modified flywheel blaster, etc.

 

...Equipment does not matter; the player (and terrain, and moderation of the game) does....

 

I wouldn't go THAT far, but your point is well noted. I've noticed how teamwork, physical conditioning and strategy can easily trump equipment. But on the flipside, If you have the right set up, you can absolute demolish your opposition that isn't well equipped, even if they are in better physical condition and are an overall "better" player.

How comfortable is that stock?

This is cool stuff. Thanks for sharing, Remzak!

That makes sense...I guess. To each their own. Would ESC controlled electronic braking be beneficial for pusher motors?

Having the motors constantly spin at low rpm to reduce rev time is one of those things that all flywheel blasters should have as a feature.

 

And perhaps brushless technology makes it feasible (from a sound and efficiency standpoint)

Thanks for sharing! What is the advantage of braking within the context of flywheel Nerf blasters?