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Circuit Question/ Swapping between power supply

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#1 ReThink

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 08:16 AM

     As stated in a previous thread, I am working on a stryfe mod, and am attempting to make use of both an external NiMH battery pack and the stock AA tray as a backup "emergency power" mode to switch to for the blaster once the NiMH is dry. I have little to no previous experience creating electrical circuits, and would like feedback regarding possible issues with my circuit, and/or recommendations to achieve what I am trying to do. 

     Sorry in advance for shitty paint diagram. 

 My main question is about the region the arrow points to, and whether or not the battery pack not currently actuated to will interfere with the one that is. 

Edit: I realize the rocker is not drawn as its individual circuits, but it is a DPDT rocker switch, I just drew the terminals

Spoiler


Edited by ReThink, 08 June 2016 - 08:19 AM.

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#2 DjOnslaught

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 09:59 AM

If I understand what your trying to do, you want to use the rocker switch to swap between power sources correct?
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#3 ReThink

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 10:02 AM

If I understand what your trying to do, you want to use the rocker switch to swap between power sources correct?

Basically, yes


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#4 shandsgator8

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 10:40 AM

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I know I'm not directly answering your question, but if you run out of juice from that battery pack you referenced in your previous thread, you must be having your flywheels constantly on or desire the ability to play for multiple days at a time without recharging...or your battery pack is really old and going bad.

 

To put things in perspective, I run a 6 cell NiMH AA battery pack (2000 mah) in my MTB Rhino'd Stryfe. After playing for about 4 hours, I barely used 15% of my capacity.


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#5 DjOnslaught

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 11:00 AM

Basically, yes


There is no need for a back up pack if your putting in a NiMH pack with enough power to run the rhinos at optimal RPM... unless your putting in a very small pack and know it's gonna be running dry on you in a day, I would not waste time on it
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#6 ReThink

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 12:03 PM

I know I'm not directly answering your question, but if you run out of juice from that battery pack you referenced in your previous thread, you must be having your flywheels constantly on or desire the ability to play for multiple days at a time without recharging...or your battery pack is really old and going bad.

 

To put things in perspective, I run a 6 cell NiMH AA battery pack (2000 mah) in my MTB Rhino'd Stryfe. After playing for about 4 hours, I barely used 15% of my capacity.

 

There is no need for a back up pack if your putting in a NiMH pack with enough power to run the rhinos at optimal RPM... unless your putting in a very small pack and know it's gonna be running dry on you in a day, I would not waste time on it

These are both valid points, and while my HvZ week does last 6 days, with both night and day missions each day, you both are probably right in assuming that it will not be fully used after 1 week. 

However, I am curious about my multi-power setup for both future builds and/or proof of the "backup battery switch" concept. So while those are both valid points, and I probably won't use this concept in this particular build after these inputs, I still would like comments from people with some electrical experience in regards as to if my drawn circuit is both possible and causes no issue between the 2 battery packs.

 

Edit: The reason this is so appealing is that I can see multiple uses for such a feature such as backup power in the middle of a game, low/high power modes, etc, and am curious to see whether or not it will work.


Edited by ReThink, 08 June 2016 - 12:06 PM.

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#7 DjOnslaught

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 12:17 PM

The way you drew your circuit is wrong, your rocker switch needs to be between power supplies and rev switch motors, if I was home I would draw one for you but I'm currently not.

Your hot and common both need to connect to the rocker first and then go to the rev and motors. Also your gonna want a SPDT switch instead of the DPDT, it will be much easier on you.

I'll add a diagram when I get home if someone else hasn't by then.

 

Wire 1.jpg

 

This is a rough diagram of how it should be wired, before you solder anythng but double check it before you solder it

 

 


Edited by DjOnslaught, 08 June 2016 - 03:36 PM.

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#8 ReThink

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 04:56 PM

 

So for that "T" connection for the green wire at the far right, how would I go about doing that? I can't imagine shrink-tubing that normally... (and I do love my shrink tube on the rare occasion I do solder)


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#9 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 06:03 PM

So for that "T" connection for the green wire at the far right, how would I go about doing that? I can't imagine shrink-tubing that normally... (and I do love my shrink tube on the rare occasion I do solder)

You would strip a little bit of plastic off of the wire coming from the switch going to battery1. Slip some heat shrink over the wire coming from battery2, solder the wire coming from battery2 to the little bit you just striped off from the other wire, then slide the heat shrink over the solder joint and shrink the heat shrink and then your done. Hope this helps.        PS. if you need a pic on how to do it, I will show you one.


Edited by Nerfguy2002, 08 June 2016 - 06:06 PM.

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#10 DjOnslaught

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 07:36 PM

So for that "T" connection for the green wire at the far right, how would I go about doing that? I can't imagine shrink-tubing that normally... (and I do love my shrink tube on the rare occasion I do solder)


You can also run it as 2 different wires soldered together at the terminals I just drew it that way to make it easier to understand.
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#11 Guest_Phlamingo_*

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Posted 12 June 2016 - 09:34 PM

Your original diagram will work fine, Rethink, as will the slightly different circuit provided by DjOnslaught. I Just be sure your switch is rated for the current you expect your motor to draw. As mentioned, this motor is rated for 10 amps; I would derate by a factor of two for safety, and use a 20 amp switch, and 14 AWG wire.

Maybe that is over-cautious, but I wouldn't want to get flaming melted plastic all over my nice clean hands.

One possible variation, if you already have the 10-amp DPDT switch, would be to run 16 AWG from both sides of the switch (not both ENDS) to the motor, distributing the current across multiple wires.

I know you said you probably won't use this kind of circuit on this project, so we are talking theoretially here. Before installing the motor, switch and battery, try running it outside the blaster, with an ammeter in the circuit. Get a feel for the actual current you will see. And check the temperature of the wires and motor while you are at it.

Keep in mind that in an enclosed plastic cavity, temperatures may run hotter.
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