Finally got around to purchasing a second NF and I'm attempting something similar to the NF bow with the plunger tubes doubled up. Since the plunger itself is, by necessity, chopped up and reconstructed I'm a little worried about stresses tearing the internals apart with too tough a spring. Each NF spring compresses to 3cm and my chopped down Handyman spring I had in my original NF compresses down to about 4.5cm. Would it be more efficient to place both NF springs in the tube, sacrificing that 3cm of airspace, for the force of dual springs; or would using the single stronger spring with the (slightly) increased air capacity produce more force on the dart?

Thanks in advance guys.

I'm confused by the image on that box. The 'gun' is an F-14, there's an F-14 on the box, and yet the kid is holding an F-16. Why didn't I get a job in marketing? Apparently you can be an idiot fuckstick and still design packaging.

So anyone else catch the Colbert Report tonight? Apparently games of Nerf Zombies are the number one threat to America this evening. Even had a screen cap from that documentary that was posted here a few months ago. We hit the big time baby!

bobadett109

I reiterate. Take a good close looks at the chains. especially the last link poking out from under the tripod. See it? Ok look reaaaaaaaaaaal close. It is not the same shape as the rest. It does not have the air restrictor cross on the end, the central part is shorter, the thinner end part is longer. It's not a casing for a dart. It's wither a feeder link or the way to attach multiple chains together. It has 25 casings. It's not called the Vulcan 27.

So...maybe Hasbro just can't count.

And if some one posts that sci-fi picture again... *twitches*

The ends of the chain do not look to be casings but some different type of feeder bolt. The end that's under the tripod has a different end to it than the ones that carry the darts. So still 25 darts with two endcap pieces.

Wouldn't a wooden manta be a bit heavy?

I'll agree it's fun, but not useful for anything.

I disagree, my Recon is a great gun. With proper modding it can get you 60+ feet. It's trickier to mod than your average Nerf gun, but for its size it's totally worth it.

Enjoy and post pics after mod!

I know it's a relative crap gun (kudos regardless on improving it in any way: nice mod) but I love how the scout looks. I'd buy one just to play around with if I could ever find one of the suckers.

If someone's rushing you...and you whip out your awesome "100 foot NF!!11!" and then the dart flies above his head, you're screwed.

Yes, because you're a terrible shot. My NF may shoot further than your "optimum" 45' but the dart velocity from 0-45' for mine is a lot faster than yours I'd wager. It shoots straight and If i can get my foam on target faster than you can, then that's just an added bonus.

The only reason I'm writing these is because I'm really bored. F U

copypasta from his own threads. Stop feeding the troll and let the mods sort it out.

Why did you remove the pop up sight on the barrel extenuation? once folded down the the sight on the coking slider makes a very iron sight. That is what the notches in the circular peace are for.
I hope that made sense.

Yeah, I know it's an effective iron sight. I just hate iron sights. That and I have a nice red dot sight I got from Wally-world that will look real nice on this as soon as I can dig it out of storage.


And now, the unveiling.



It's obviously a little harder to cock with the paint thickening certain parts that slide past each other. The added spring adds to this. The extra weight from the light and braces isn't that much and it feels great with the shoulder stock. Definitely my new primary. I'll stick with my NF sidearm for the further ranges. And with some beautiful weather today I finally got to do some range tests. For a six shot clip i got this:

58'
62'
53'
55'
65'
63'

Nothing Effeminate, but solid. And with the ease of clip replacement and increased rate of fire with the shotgun mod, I couldn't be happier. Thanks for taking the time to view this, and I can't wait to see some more Recon mods. Maybe I'll finally tackle my LS now.

An update on my Recon.

After many days of rain and high wind I was able to finally get out and paint this sucker. Some silver dry-brush "distressing" will be done tomorrow followed by a clear coat and final rebuild.

Here's a pic of all the painted pieces, including the new braces I fashioned for the shotgun foregrip. Much nicer than the wood.

Ok, it's far from polished but works like a dream. Here's the foregrip light replacement and shotgun mod for my Recon.

After clearing out the unnecessary bits on the inside of the 'laser' so the Maglite slides in nicely, I used my friend epoxy putty to make a base. As a measure to keep the flashlight from rotating in the grip ( so i can turn it on) and to keep it from slipping out forwards, I used the metal pin left over from removing the black breech cover on the top of the Recon.



The pin fits perfectly in the lanyard tie for the light and with a matching bit of putty on the other side to keep it nice and secure, we have a solidly nested Maglite ready for use.



Here's a quick shot of the light in use along with the now added bolts I secured inside the grip after drilling holes for them and securing with yet even more putty. You can also see the two bolts on the cocking slide of the Recon in the back there that will attach to the two poplar shanks I got at Home Depot for all of 97 cents.



And the completed shotgun grip. Cosmetics aside, it works beautifully. The grip slides all the way back to it's 'normal' position to cock the gun, then slides out to close the bolt. I only wish the barrel was about a half inch longer so it wouldn't hang off that last bit.





Really loving this gun. Rain has prevented accurate range tests but I'm standing by my 60' approximates. Final pics will be up with paint job and shotgun refinement in the next couple of days.

Hope this proves useful to you guys out there in Nerf land, and I can't wait to see what you guys one-up me with.

What's the overall length with your shortened stock attached?

With the barrel attachment on it's now 25.5" from tip to tail.

Great job! I cut down my other stock too.

does this add much range?

Thanks. It's my second mod. I love doing this stuff.

The air restrictor removal and compression trick upped the craptastic stock 25-30' to around 45-50'. The added spring doesn't add as much as I had hoped, but then again it's a NF spring, not too beefy. All things totaled it gives be about 60'. I havn't done a totally accurate measurement test yet, so when I finish with the shotgun mod and get all the kinks worked out I'll post again with final ranges. Regardless it feels great shooting and makes such a nice sound when it fires. And the red 'light' rail attachment will have a led Maglite replacement for added versatility.

How far did you make the holes?

the two that attach to the bolt-slide are 3/4" apart.

It doesn't really matter though, it fully depends on where you intend to attach your shotgun arm.

Considering I'm planning on using the extended barrel attachment so I can implement my shotgun mod, I don't know if a barrel replacement is all that feasible. It'll definitely be the next thing I'll be looking into however. Do you have any pics for your brass in the bolt sled?

Nice job!

But what is the smaller piece of PVC? Also, how did you dremel out that entire tube (seeing as a dremel's bits are only so long)?

I also like the shortened stock. It feels extremely annoying long, especially considering it bends like hell.

The longer piece of PVC sits directly on top of the mid-brace, not nested inside of it. it's also the same length as the spring. I was worried that if the spring popped out of the mid-brace that it might have problems going back in with the next cock, so that small diameter PVC sticks just a little out of the brace and acts as a guide of sorts to make sure the spring goes all the way back in. Like I originally said, it may prove of no actual use whatsoever but I like to hedge my bets.

As far as Dremeling out the long PVC. with the bit placed as far out as possible and still being held by the tool it reaches just to the halfway point with the sanding drum attachment. So all I had to do is keep flipping in around to increase the inner diameter. I suppose you could do the same thing with some high grit sandpaper rolled up and lots of dedication. You could also use a larger diameter piece of PVC, but then it doesn't sit as nicely in the stock.


Forsaken_angel24,

The epoxy putty is my adhesive of choice. It's super malleable when you first knead it together so it fits in anywhere and it dries rock hard after 5 minutes. Then you can sand it and even drill it to make places for screws if you need. Just rough up the surfaces a little beforehand so it has better purchase. Really versatile for a $4 tube.

Thanks in advance to DeceitfulSteve for his spring into stock idea and to analogkid for the internal spring compression trick. And of course to all those valiantly trying to figure out the best way to remove the darn air restrictor. Yes it was a pain to get out.

I liked the idea of using the stock to contain an extra spring, but I didn't like the length of the stock. Way too long in my opinion. I also didn't want to chop up the 'armed' plunger to allow for total compression of a shorter spring against the middle brace on the stock, though technically that last inch or so is vestigial. One Man Clan's original posting of the Recon showed the middle stock brace with a hole in it, supposedly for the 'armed' arm to fit in. So, idea. Though I have no version with an AR-15 spring to compare too, I suspect I'll still get a nice little bump on range using a smaller one at full compression. That and I like the shorter, more tactical stock.

Here's an initial picture of the materials. Already chopped up the later portion of the stock and left a bit hanging out the back of the middle brace so that I can have an attachment point for the shoulder stock. There's also a length of 3/4 inch PVC that I had to Dremel out a little so that it fit loosely over the extended plunger tube. Didn't take much. Make sure it doesn't stick anywhere, or obviously this doesn't work. The shorter length will go inside the mid-brace along with the smaller diameter piece which will go inside of that as an anti-kink guide for the compressing spring. Not certain if it really has any measurable effect, but I like to err on the side of caution.



Used epoxy putty to create a little nest for the tubes, make sure they're as centered as possible. The central one extends far enough out to keep the spring from rocking around too much in case it bounces out of the mid-brace after firing, but not far enough to touch the extended plunger tube. This is also a good indicator on whether or not a fully compressed spring will fit when the gun is cocked. The extra NF spring I had available fits just fine, and when I get a chance to replace it with a sturdier Handyman spring I'll see if i have to shave a little off the plunger tube or not. Making a sturdy base with the epoxy at the back screw keeps the spring compressing correctly.



Here's a shot of the mid-brace together and the spring inserted.



Now you can connect the chopped stock to the blaster and cock the gun so that the plunger acts as a guide to connect the large PVC; and if you Dremeled correctly, lining up perfectly with it. Here's a shot with some added epoxy supports. It slips on and off just fine and with the spring inserted makes a really nice 'thrum' when fired.



And a final shot with the shoulder stock reattached with some more epoxy ( god I love that stuff .) Just needs some cosmetic sanding and a coat of paint, and I have my new primary.






Within the next couple of days I'll be completing and posting the shotgun mod I've got worked out for the Recon too.

Hope this passes muster, more to come soon.

how are the bolts attached to the gun itself?

They're epoxy puttyed into the small recess at the rear of the slide.

Could you post a list of materials? I'm thinking of doing this, but it would be much easier to simply have a list I can C&P and print to bring to Home Depot

Oh jesus, a shopping list? Heh, let me try and remember. OK, here's the gist.

1 Recon
1 MiniMaglite
2 tubes Epoxy Putty (There are various types: some dry in 5 minutes, some take 30)
1 sheet of thin (maybe 1/8th inch thick) plastic. They sell it in the window section of Lowes. in 4' x 3' sheets.
4 1/2" long 1/16" diameter bolts
2 1" bolts for fore-grip (they have to reach out wider to meet the brace)
6 nuts ( I got the kind with the plastic seal on the one side to prevent overscrewing.)
10 washers to go on the inside of the fore-grip braces. acts as a a support for them so the plastic won't bend too far in.

And if you're doing the shoulder stock mod as well as the shotgun:

1 3 1/2" length of 1" pipe, dremeled out slightly to accommodate plunger tube
1 1/2" length of 1" pipe for the inside of the mid-brace, 1/2" pipe inside is optional
1 Leftover NF or equivalent sized spring

E-tape, rubber bands and lots and lots of re-measuring may be required as well. All in all I spent about $25 on the whole project and now I have a ton of leftover pipe. I had to buy them in 10' sections.

Hope this helps!

DUDE!! You beat Captain Slug to it. I am impressed man. Props

Oh I didn't beat anybody to anything. The shotgun grip is hardly an original idea, I was just the first to post a write-up for the Recon. But I'll take the props just the same.

The hassle is half the fun!

Wow, extremely impressive. People said a shotgun foregrip wouldn't be feasible on the Recon, but you proved them wrong. And with the MagLite you can Nerf more effectively in night situations, I love it. My only suggestion for improvement upon your current setup would be to use polycarbonate instead of shanks and install them directly onto the stock bolt.

EDIT: I'm really starting to see as much or more potential in the Recon as in the Longshot!

Oh I agree the shanks aren't the only, or the best, way to do the shotgun bit. I'm limited by the tools that I have. I have a small battery powered hand held Dremel MiniMite and a few hand tools. If I could machine metal I'd have the perfect connectors. At the moment this is an advanced proof of concept. I deliberately wanted to use the nuts and bolts so I could swap out and remove parts at will and eventually upgrade to better materials.

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