Been a while, but I recently bought another nitefinder expecting it to be no problem, but I pull out the plunger tube and the whole thing is glued together! It looks like there's just white glue but it's still held together good, how would I go about removing the air restrictor now? Would soaking in acetone destroy the plastic?
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tyrant bb
Member Since 23 Aug 2007Offline Last Active Mar 09 2012 06:21 PM
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Glue On The Nitefinder Plunger Tube
06 January 2010 - 06:13 PM
Uber Pimpin- My Bbbb & At2k
17 February 2008 - 08:42 PM
I decided I needed a good primary... so at first I chose the LS. It broke of course (2nd one too) so I decided to choose a simple, effective gun. I chose the Big Blast. It worked, but I needed a faster rate of fire, so I added the AT2K. Then... this gun Uber Pimpin was made because it is pimpin.
The Big Blast is basically CaptainSlug's mod. I used 17/32" brass inside 1/2" PVC. After the mod, the internals kept moving whenever I tried to pump it so I just hot glued all the internals in place.
Now the AT2K. I couldn't use the internals as they were, cause the goo tube was too much room to fit in the BBBB's handle, even when the tube part was removed. So I chopped off the tubing, and super glued 1/4" OD vinyl tubing followed by gorilla glue in there. It seems to hold air fine.
So the Big Blast pumps up like normal, and the trigger is the same. The AT2K works by pumping the pump on the side of the gun, and then pulling on a piece of PVC glued to the trigger pin (I didn't have any keyrings). I also made a speedloader for the 2K since the turret wouldn't glue on straight.
[PROBLEM FIXED]
Now for the problem. The 2K gets ranges around 30-40 feet, I KNOW they're capable of hitting at least 70 because mine did before. I really have little clue whats causing this. In order of my first guess to last: here is what I think is wrong:
-The hole on the air tank is pointing down too much, and when I put the CPVC in the coupler, it shoots most the air not into the dart, but onto the side of the CPVC... picture below
-There's too much dead space between the coupler and air tank... though I really doubt that amount of dead space would have this big of an impact on range.
-The goo tube had a lot of air in it, and now that I cut that off there's less air in it.
-And my biggest fear of what it is, when I pull back on the trigger air is escaping out the back of the air tank (I can sometimes hear a leak when I push the trigger pin to the side).
So if I anyone can help me with that...I will love you.
[/PROBLEM FIXED]
I tested ranges on the BBBB today, the following might have affected range: 40 degrees Fahrenheit, 78% humidity, 500 something feet above sea level, winds from around 10 mph to gusting around 29 mph helping range, 0 degree flat shot.
-112 feet
-lost
-138 feet
-143 feet
-115 feet
Oh yeah... any comments on the rest of my gun too?
The Big Blast is basically CaptainSlug's mod. I used 17/32" brass inside 1/2" PVC. After the mod, the internals kept moving whenever I tried to pump it so I just hot glued all the internals in place.
Now the AT2K. I couldn't use the internals as they were, cause the goo tube was too much room to fit in the BBBB's handle, even when the tube part was removed. So I chopped off the tubing, and super glued 1/4" OD vinyl tubing followed by gorilla glue in there. It seems to hold air fine.
So the Big Blast pumps up like normal, and the trigger is the same. The AT2K works by pumping the pump on the side of the gun, and then pulling on a piece of PVC glued to the trigger pin (I didn't have any keyrings). I also made a speedloader for the 2K since the turret wouldn't glue on straight.
[PROBLEM FIXED]
Now for the problem. The 2K gets ranges around 30-40 feet, I KNOW they're capable of hitting at least 70 because mine did before. I really have little clue whats causing this. In order of my first guess to last: here is what I think is wrong:
-The hole on the air tank is pointing down too much, and when I put the CPVC in the coupler, it shoots most the air not into the dart, but onto the side of the CPVC... picture below
-There's too much dead space between the coupler and air tank... though I really doubt that amount of dead space would have this big of an impact on range.
-The goo tube had a lot of air in it, and now that I cut that off there's less air in it.
-And my biggest fear of what it is, when I pull back on the trigger air is escaping out the back of the air tank (I can sometimes hear a leak when I push the trigger pin to the side).
So if I anyone can help me with that...I will love you.
[/PROBLEM FIXED]
I tested ranges on the BBBB today, the following might have affected range: 40 degrees Fahrenheit, 78% humidity, 500 something feet above sea level, winds from around 10 mph to gusting around 29 mph helping range, 0 degree flat shot.
-112 feet
-lost
-138 feet
-143 feet
-115 feet
Oh yeah... any comments on the rest of my gun too?
Solvent Welding
02 February 2008 - 12:41 AM
Soooo... I know I'm a noob but I don't want to risk killing myself from improper solvent welds.
First, I don't think all this primer stuff and proper use of all it is completely necessary. When I made my first homemade gun, my dad did pretty much all the solvent welding part. From what I've heard on the internet, his way of doing it is really really bad. He didn't use any primer, and then he used all purpose cement. It's pretty old too, it's kinda really gooey... unless that's what it's supposed to be like (The can says don't use if its jelly like). But! It gets a 100% air seal and hasn't failed at around 90 PSI. So whatever.
Well I'm making a gun that uses 2 inch PVC so I need to make sure its better this time. I've heard lots of different techniques all over from searching... but I'm pretty sure theres different primers and cements.
Priming. The can I have says "For PVC, CPVC, Purple Primer". This might be really old since it's my dad's and he doesn't think it's necessary. It still has the consistency of water though. First of all, are you supposed to put like a huge amount on? Or just a really light coat. Then, are you supposed to wait for it to completely dry before adding cement, or right after you add primer do you put cement on?
Cementing. This can says "Regular, Clear, PVC Cement". Well first of all, I can't even get this open! I don't want to risk damaging it by using pliers, since it might be cemented shut and I'll have to return it. Once I do get this open though, how much do I put on? Do I put it on only one end, or both.
Another thing, not really related to solvent welding. I need to convert 2 inch PVC to 1 inch PVC, and I can't really find the right connectors. I found 2" to 1-1/2", but it says NSF-DWV which I'm pretty sure means not pressure rated. It also doesn't look like a lot of the pipe would fit into it, maybe 3/4".
MAIN POINTS:
-Is primer supposed to be wet or dry before adding cement?
-Does PVC Cement come really hard to open when you buy it?
-Can NSF-DWV pipe be used for pressure?
First, I don't think all this primer stuff and proper use of all it is completely necessary. When I made my first homemade gun, my dad did pretty much all the solvent welding part. From what I've heard on the internet, his way of doing it is really really bad. He didn't use any primer, and then he used all purpose cement. It's pretty old too, it's kinda really gooey... unless that's what it's supposed to be like (The can says don't use if its jelly like). But! It gets a 100% air seal and hasn't failed at around 90 PSI. So whatever.
Well I'm making a gun that uses 2 inch PVC so I need to make sure its better this time. I've heard lots of different techniques all over from searching... but I'm pretty sure theres different primers and cements.
Priming. The can I have says "For PVC, CPVC, Purple Primer". This might be really old since it's my dad's and he doesn't think it's necessary. It still has the consistency of water though. First of all, are you supposed to put like a huge amount on? Or just a really light coat. Then, are you supposed to wait for it to completely dry before adding cement, or right after you add primer do you put cement on?
Cementing. This can says "Regular, Clear, PVC Cement". Well first of all, I can't even get this open! I don't want to risk damaging it by using pliers, since it might be cemented shut and I'll have to return it. Once I do get this open though, how much do I put on? Do I put it on only one end, or both.
Another thing, not really related to solvent welding. I need to convert 2 inch PVC to 1 inch PVC, and I can't really find the right connectors. I found 2" to 1-1/2", but it says NSF-DWV which I'm pretty sure means not pressure rated. It also doesn't look like a lot of the pipe would fit into it, maybe 3/4".
MAIN POINTS:
-Is primer supposed to be wet or dry before adding cement?
-Does PVC Cement come really hard to open when you buy it?
-Can NSF-DWV pipe be used for pressure?
Magstrike Or Rf20?
04 January 2008 - 02:08 PM
So I want to buy a rapid fire gun, mainly for indoor wars. Magstrike and RF20 seem like the only good choices though. I really can't decide what to get, since they seem so alike. So if you've tried both, could you tell me some of the pros and cons of each? Since I'm a pretty big noob too, would I end up breaking 1 or the other?
Thanks
Thanks
Big Bad Bow Leak?
21 December 2007 - 08:50 PM
Well a while ago I bought a BBB did the Big Bad Sexy mod to it and it worked fine. I had to ramrod stefans down the barrel though, and that annoyed me. Still, it got 100 feet. So now I tried making a breech...and there are just so many problems now.
That's what the internals look like. Anything else behind that I didn't do anything to.
Looking down the... barrel thing. I put hot glue all around that so when I tried pushing a stefan back with CPVC trying to get it up there, it didn't just go back too far. The diameter of the circle left where the air can get through is just enough so I could fit a small sized hot glue stick down there.
That probably doesn't explain much, but since CPVC fits my darts really tightly, I took a file to it and scraped out lots of the pipe. So, the dart can slide down easier through the first 2 inches or so.
In case those pictures didn't explain much, this is basically it:
I have 3/4" PVC attached to the thing that attaches to the plunger tube. There is a layer of craft foam in there so CPVC will fit in it. Then there's a hole dremeled out so a dart can fit down there when the CPVC isn't in it. Then, I put a dart in and push the CPVC back, hoping the dart would go up the CPVC so I wouldn't have to ramrod it. However, there is still about half an inch of the stefan sticking out the back of the barrel.
So when I try and shoot it, it doesn't work. The dart just slowly moves up the barrel. After about 4 or so shots the dart finally comes out but it only goes like 30 feet.
That's what the internals look like. Anything else behind that I didn't do anything to.
Looking down the... barrel thing. I put hot glue all around that so when I tried pushing a stefan back with CPVC trying to get it up there, it didn't just go back too far. The diameter of the circle left where the air can get through is just enough so I could fit a small sized hot glue stick down there.
That probably doesn't explain much, but since CPVC fits my darts really tightly, I took a file to it and scraped out lots of the pipe. So, the dart can slide down easier through the first 2 inches or so.
In case those pictures didn't explain much, this is basically it:
I have 3/4" PVC attached to the thing that attaches to the plunger tube. There is a layer of craft foam in there so CPVC will fit in it. Then there's a hole dremeled out so a dart can fit down there when the CPVC isn't in it. Then, I put a dart in and push the CPVC back, hoping the dart would go up the CPVC so I wouldn't have to ramrod it. However, there is still about half an inch of the stefan sticking out the back of the barrel.
So when I try and shoot it, it doesn't work. The dart just slowly moves up the barrel. After about 4 or so shots the dart finally comes out but it only goes like 30 feet.
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