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It's been my dream to make a homemade nerf repeater. I was cruising Ebay for regulators, and stumbled upon one for $7. The listing advertised the distributor's website, and sure enough, it was there for $8. Here is the site:
http://www.marketwor...6578&i=16010774
What do you guys think? Seems extremely useful for my purposes, with a built-in gauge for monitoring the pressure. The only thing I am unsure of is the maximum pressure output. However, I don't think Nerf ever reaches 100 PSI, so it should be fine.
~Vintage
Vintage
Member Since 09 Apr 2004Offline Last Active Feb 10 2013 12:36 AM
Topics I've Started
New Valve
10 September 2004 - 07:53 PM
Ok, I have been working on a new homemade valve that releases much more air than the Zero valve. I finally have a working prototype, and the plans to make more. I thought I should post it, and make it an official submission to the site.
What you need:
1/4” OD metal tube
Stiff spring that has a loose fit over the rod
1/2"OD, 3/8"ID vinyl tubing
3/4" PVC tee
3/4" to 1/2" reducer bushing (x 2)
1/2" PVC threaded plug
1/2" OD, 1/4" ID rubber o-ring
Hose washer
1/2" Angled faucet gasket (Actual OD 3/4")
Plumber’s Goop
Directions:
Take one reducer bushing and goop the hose washer on the 3/4" end. Make sure the washer is perfectly round. Goop the bushing into one of the cross-sections of the PVC tee.
Take the threaded plug and hacksaw off the lip section (the section that you hold onto when you screw it in.) Drill a 1/4" hole into the exact center of the plug and work the drill bit in the hole to enlarge it. You want the hole big enough for the tube to slide through without touching. Drop the rubber o-ring into the plug and make sure it aligns with the drilled hole. Cut a section of vinyl tubing to fit completely in the plug. Goop it into the plug, making sure it presses against the o-ring securely.
Take your threaded plug setup and goop it into the other reducer bushing making sure the hole in the plug is facing out.
Take your faucet gasket and drill a 1/4" hole into it. Use adjustable pliers to hold the gasket while you drill so you don’t hurt yourself if the drill skips. Goop the gasket onto the end of the tube with the angled side out. Put goop inside the gasket end of the tube to make it airtight.
Temporarily put the tube through the o-ring setup and put the setup into the other end of the PVC tee. Measure how long the spring will need to be to securely hold the gasket against the washer. Cut the spring to that size, plus a little for tension. Remove the o-ring setup from the PVC tee, and remove the tube from the o-ring setup.
Wait for everything to dry 24 hours.
Then slide the spring over the tube and replace it in the o-ring setup. Goop the o-ring setup in the PVC tee, and let it dry 24 hours. Spray the both sides with silicon spray, and you are done! To open the valve, pull the tube, and to close it, let go!
I know this sounds confusing, but this drawing should help out. I intend to take pictures of the process before I submit this to Cxwq.
Edit: The reducing bushing on the right side is to allow direct feed to a 1/2" PVC barrel. You could swap that bushing for regular 3/4" PVC if you want.
What you need:
1/4” OD metal tube
Stiff spring that has a loose fit over the rod
1/2"OD, 3/8"ID vinyl tubing
3/4" PVC tee
3/4" to 1/2" reducer bushing (x 2)
1/2" PVC threaded plug
1/2" OD, 1/4" ID rubber o-ring
Hose washer
1/2" Angled faucet gasket (Actual OD 3/4")
Plumber’s Goop
Directions:
Take one reducer bushing and goop the hose washer on the 3/4" end. Make sure the washer is perfectly round. Goop the bushing into one of the cross-sections of the PVC tee.
Take the threaded plug and hacksaw off the lip section (the section that you hold onto when you screw it in.) Drill a 1/4" hole into the exact center of the plug and work the drill bit in the hole to enlarge it. You want the hole big enough for the tube to slide through without touching. Drop the rubber o-ring into the plug and make sure it aligns with the drilled hole. Cut a section of vinyl tubing to fit completely in the plug. Goop it into the plug, making sure it presses against the o-ring securely.
Take your threaded plug setup and goop it into the other reducer bushing making sure the hole in the plug is facing out.
Take your faucet gasket and drill a 1/4" hole into it. Use adjustable pliers to hold the gasket while you drill so you don’t hurt yourself if the drill skips. Goop the gasket onto the end of the tube with the angled side out. Put goop inside the gasket end of the tube to make it airtight.
Temporarily put the tube through the o-ring setup and put the setup into the other end of the PVC tee. Measure how long the spring will need to be to securely hold the gasket against the washer. Cut the spring to that size, plus a little for tension. Remove the o-ring setup from the PVC tee, and remove the tube from the o-ring setup.
Wait for everything to dry 24 hours.
Then slide the spring over the tube and replace it in the o-ring setup. Goop the o-ring setup in the PVC tee, and let it dry 24 hours. Spray the both sides with silicon spray, and you are done! To open the valve, pull the tube, and to close it, let go!
I know this sounds confusing, but this drawing should help out. I intend to take pictures of the process before I submit this to Cxwq.
Edit: The reducing bushing on the right side is to allow direct feed to a 1/2" PVC barrel. You could swap that bushing for regular 3/4" PVC if you want.
Homemade Pistol Idea
21 August 2004 - 09:21 PM
The middle section is a version of the Zero pull-valve. The handle is not part of the tank, and therefore could be shaped into anything, even a stock.
I think the airtank will be very sufficient, as I plan to pump it up to a high PSI. I might even want a longer barrel if enough pressure is built up.
What do you think?
~Vintage
Nerf P90
07 July 2004 - 09:29 PM
I posted my homemade that resembled the P90 over at NHQ, but I thought I should put it here as well. This is my working P90:
It gets around 120 feet angled (around 95 feet flat) with a brass barrel. I am currently working on a different brass setup to improve range now.
The main thing that I was not satisfied with was the angle of the stock. Now, I am almost ready to start building a new P90, that will use two hose handles to correct the angle problem, and give me a semi-auto design at the same time.
Here are my latest plans:
The bike pump can handle pressure up to 90 PSI, so I should get good regulation. It came with a short cord that I will use to connect it to the tire valve. The pump will be mounted along the bottom pipe facing forward. The pump handle will be operated at the front of the gun.
I would like feedback concerning the overall look of the gun, and the ergonomics of the pump location.
~Vintage
It gets around 120 feet angled (around 95 feet flat) with a brass barrel. I am currently working on a different brass setup to improve range now.
The main thing that I was not satisfied with was the angle of the stock. Now, I am almost ready to start building a new P90, that will use two hose handles to correct the angle problem, and give me a semi-auto design at the same time.
Here are my latest plans:
The bike pump can handle pressure up to 90 PSI, so I should get good regulation. It came with a short cord that I will use to connect it to the tire valve. The pump will be mounted along the bottom pipe facing forward. The pump handle will be operated at the front of the gun.
I would like feedback concerning the overall look of the gun, and the ergonomics of the pump location.
~Vintage
