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Member Since 22 Feb 2007
Offline Last Active Jul 07 2016 12:56 PM

Topics I've Started

Free Rice To Help Starving Children

28 March 2008 - 11:40 PM

This is kind of an ineresting web site that my sister showed me. You learn vocab and get smarter. If you get a word right, then the company donates 20 grains of rice. The other day, I got up to over 3000 grains of rice. If you have some free time, play; it is for a good cause. They also tell you your vocab score, mine was about 20, but my dad's is in the high 30's.

Free Rice page


28 February 2008 - 05:54 PM

To my knowledge, this is a new game. Here are the rules that I have come up with. They where typed in a fashion that my friends can understand, so that is why there is so much capitalization etc. If you have any ideas please post them.

TEAM SPLITTING: Team numbers are split according to the number of people playing.
There are always two teams, team A, also known as Team Alpha or Lone Wolf, and team B known as The Hunters or Beta Force.

Number of People Playing Number on Team A Number on Team B
3 ................................................1................................2
6 ................................................2................................4
7 ................................................2/3.............................5/4
8 ................................................2/3.............................6/5

OBJECTIVE: Each team has a very specific objective. They are as fallows;

TEAM A: The smaller team has to locate a specific item, known as “The Object.” They will be disclosed the location of this object in their mission briefing, which we will discuss later. Once they have the object in their possession, they need to make it to the end, known as the extraction point.

TEAM B: The larger team’s goal is to locate and tag* the other team, or locate the object first.

*All tags must be landed on the head or torso. One hit elimination. Modifications: * Change number of hits.

MISSION BRIEFING: Each team will get a mission briefing. Team A’s mission briefing will contain the exact location of the object and the extraction point along with a suggested path to take. Team B’s Mission briefing will contain an approximant location of the object along with an approximant location of the extraction point. These will be handed out to each team before the game begins and will be in an oblique envelope. Each team will need to keep a close eye on these because they don’t want the other team knowing what they know and it is their only means to know where everything is.

EQUIPMENT: Each person will be issued a BDU jacket that must be worn at all times. This sets you apart from the rest of the public. The point of this is so you can ask bystanders if they have seen another player walking around, distinguished by the BDU. If you do ask someone you must give a short summery of what you are doing, as to put him or her at ease. APROCH BYSTANDERS AT YOUR OWN RISK. THEY MAY NOT APROVE OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND ASK YOU TO STOP OR ASK MORE QUESTIONS. IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO DEAL WITH THESE, THEN DON’T ASK THE BYSTANDERS. DO NOT USE THE WORD “GUN” WHEN CONFRONTING PEOPLE, USE BLASTER. Along with your BDU, you will be issued a Nerf NiteFinder and five Nerf darts. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO MAKE SURE ALL EQUIPMENT MUST BE RETURNED. PICK UP YOUR DARTS. Modifications: *If you are playing with people over 16, you may consider letting Beta Force have use of a car. *Give each player more than five darts. *Use different Nerf guns.

RULES OF ENGAGMENT: Team Alpha MUST avoid confrontation at all cost. Run before you shoot. Beta Force can shoot whenever they want. DO NOT POINT NERF BLASTER AT NON-PLAYERS.


1. Teams are chosen.
2. Each team is handed its pre-prepared envelope with their mission briefing in it. Each team looks at it and Team A take the object and places it in the designated location. Then Team A returns to the drop zone (starting point). Team A is given a 10-minute head start. Modification: Change the amount of time Team A gets as a head start.
3. The game continues until one team completes their objective or is completely wiped out.


Sorry if a game like this has been posted, it is hard to search for games you have never heard of.


17 September 2007 - 08:39 PM

This is my first homemade. It is called the Compact Carry SNAP, because if you take the barrel off, it will fit in your pocket easily; better than a cut down NF. The SNAP comes from the type of triger. Thank you Carbon for coming up with this trigger, it wouldn't be posible without it. It is made completely out of CPVC, except a small ring and the catch system.

Posted Image

That is a four inch barrel on it, brass (13/32). It shoots nanos and gets an estimated 45 feet. I don't mind that it has not that good of a range. It is ment for assassin games where you need to have a gun, but can't be seen with one, like when shopping.

The plunger tube is 1 inch CPVC, the barrel seath is 1/2 inch CPVC, the plunger head is a 1/2 CPVC end cap.

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This is the gun taken all apart. The spring perch is not pictured, it is still in the plunger tube, it is hard to get in and out. As you can see, the plunger shaft has slots cut in it; two screws enter into there and guide the plunger so that the catch hole doesn't turn away form the catch pin. The plunger head is not glued on, it is just friction, it works fine.

The gun can have the 45 degree cupler on it so it is more like a pistol, or you can insert it into some 1/2 inch PVC at the end of the gun that also the plunger head hits, to not put stress on the slots. In the end of the 45 degree coupler is a half inch reducing bushling. In order to get the coupler to fit on the end, I had to showlow out room for the screw head.

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Right now it has a streched maverick spring in it, I think it would get better range if I replaced the spring. I made a second one with a handyman spring in it and it just made the trigger pull ungodly hard. It broke the clothes pin I was using. It didn't even increase range to the point it would be exceptable. There is no way you can shoot it when you need to. I recommend a weaker spring. I haven't tried it, but I would think a stock NF spring would do well.

Edit: Thanks Piney!

PINEY EDIT:Okay, I fixed your image tags. Now they show up on page. If you resize your first image to match the second one it won't be so ginormous.

Sorry it took so long to get a write up up.


• 1 inch CPVC
• ½ inch CPVC
• ½ inch CPVC couplers (2)
• ½ inch CPVC end cap (1)
• Right size O ring (I can’t remember the size; just pick out one that fits tightly over the end cap and inside the handle.)
• 1 ½ key ring (1)
• Clothes pin (1)
• Small, wide head nail (1)
• Electrical tape
• #6 ½ inch pan head sheet metal screws (6)
• Barrel Pipe
* ¾ inch CPVC if your barrel material doesn’t fit in ½ inch CPVC
* ¾ inch or ½ inch reducing bushing, what ever size you are using as your barrel sheath.
• 135 degree 1 inch CPVC coupling.
• Spring, I don’t suggest the handyman spring. To big compressed length.


• Dremal with cutting disk and sanding drum
• Drill, drill press preferably
• Hack saw if you want
• Hot glue and hot glue gun

1. Cut your handle to the desired length. I cut mine to 6”.

2. Now you need to make three spacers. Take one of the ½” couplers, and cut it in half. Now sand out the inside of each half. Now cut another coupler in half and sand it out. Rap them in electrical tape until they fit nicely in the one inch CPVC handle you cut.

3. Now take two of them and line them up along side the handle like this

Posted Image

The closer they are, the more precise you have to be. Use a marker to make a mark in-between them; this will be the hole where the catch pin goes through. Use a drill or drill press to drill a hole with a 1/8 inch bit.

4. Drill a hole in your clothes pin where you want the catch pin to go through.

5. Now you need to cut the plunger shaft. It needs to be the same length as the handle.

6. Drill holes in the spring perch spacer, screws will go through here and they will also keep the plunger shaft from spinning. The bit size is 1/8 inch. The end of the spacer closest to the catch pin can not block the hole that the pin goes through. Try to get them about directly across.

7. To find out where the catch hole will be in the plunger shaft, you need to take your spring you are using and put it on the plunger shaft. Make sure the screws in the spring perch are in, but not in enough to block the way of the plunger shaft. Get a clamp and pull the plunger tube out until the spring is fully compressed. Now, while it is still being pulled back, clamp the plunger tube so that it will not go forward at all. Now use a screw and screw it in the hole. This will make a small hole in the plunger shaft. While it is still clamped, put some screws in the spring perch, which should be in already with screws in, just not screwed in all the way. Release the clamp and remove the plunger shaft. Take the Dremal and drill and 1/8 inch hole exactly on the hole the screw made and then widen it with a grinding tool. To test if it is big enough and in the right spot, put the spring back on and put it back in the handle, and pull it all the way back, drop a nail in the catch hole and work it around a little. It might take a little bit of work to get the nail in the hole. If you can’t get it, take it apart and make the hole bigger. If you get it, take it all apart.

8. Now we are going to put in the end caps. These are the other spacers you made, they will be flesh with the end. One on each end. Use a drill and a 1/8 inch bit. Put two screws in each, you will need to cut down the screws with the cutting wheel.

9. Take the holes you made with the spring perch in step 7 and use a cutting wheel to make slots in it, it might be a good idea to use a square. Use a spare screw to see if they are big enough.

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10. Glue on your clothes pin, lining up the hole with the other hole in step 4.

11. You may have to epoxy on your plunger head. Now this part takes a very steady hand or a drill press. Take a 1/8 inch drill bit and set up the drill press, drill a very shallow hole and then lock the bit in place, spin the head so that it makes a grove. This is where the o-ring will sit. From time to time, take it out and put the o-ring on and see how well it fits in the handle. When it is pretty tight, but will fit, grease it up and see how well it slides now. It should slide great.

12. Now put it all together and see if it works, if it doesn’t, adjust what’s not working. Once everything is working, continue to step 13.

13. Cut the catch nail a little so that it isn’t to long. Then stick it in the hole in the close pin a clamp the close pin to that it is open and that the nail head is flush with the clothes pin. Then put a big blog of hot glue on it.

14. Drill a hole for the key ring in the end of the plunger shaft and put it on.

I think that is it, if you have any questions or I left something out, just ask. If you need other pics, just ask for that too and I'll get it as soon as I can.

Edit: Added information on stronger springs.

Mav Air Seal

27 May 2007 - 10:31 PM

I did CS's maverick clip mod, the one with the drop out clip, and it makes increadle relode time, but it kills the air seal, how can I get a better air seal, and I can't do the thing FS_24 did because I took the front of, and if I put a spring on the rod, I can't get the clip out, the only thing I could think of is to find a really thin washer, or drill out a dime and glue it over the nozle thing. Please help. :(

P.S. I did search plenty.

Ok, I apoxed it, I think that fixed it.

Nano Stefans

05 May 2007 - 09:01 AM

I was just wondering if nano stefans, if

1. they were size 1/4 or 3/8 inche (I don't care either way)

2. if they, either size is worth making a homemade for, such as ranges would be good?


Thanks again Fett, so 1/4 inch stefans I believe are called matchstick stefans, do those go farther than nanos?

Thanks z80, that makes sense, so is there no such thing as a 1/4 inch dart?

Wow, thanks LMA, that clears almost everything up. Thanks again.