I figured I'd finally get off my ass and make a write up on my first homemade and first homemade primary.
Note: Read the entire write before attempting.
Tools Needed Dremel Drill #6 screw tap file
You will need...
for the catch 1 - 1" PVC tee 1 - L bracket a lot - 1/2" #6 screws a lot - 1/3" #6 screws 1" CPVC 1.5" PVC ductape or 1" PVC 2 springs #6 nuts
for the plunger rod 1/2" PVC 1/2" rod (I used solid core for more strength) #8 or bigger screws 1/2" PVC tee
for the plunger tube 1.5" PVC 1" PVC coupler 1" to 1/2" reducer
for the stock and handle 1" PVC 2 - 1" elbows
Before you start you want to sand off any writing before cutting the surface.
To start off, you will need to make the catch body out of a 1" PVC tee by cutting it like this.
Then cut the catch cover out of 1.5" PVC cut it as wide as you'd like. (it determines how much of the catch ring is showing out of the side)
This was the width I used but it may vary due to how well your plunger tube fits.
Find the two center anchor points for the cover and the catch screw guide.
I chose to leave this area open to see the catch ring.
Drill and tap the screw holes and drill a slightly larger hole for the catch screw.
Next cut a 3/8" segment of 1" CPVC and drill and tap a hole for a #6 screw in the center of the ring. This is the catch ring.
Then screw in a #6 screw the length will vary so adjust to the size that works for you.
Once you have the right length, install it onto the catch cover with a spring pushing down on the ring. Make sure to sand down the extra bit of screw for a clear path.
You want it to stick past the spacers to be able to catch on the catch notch.
Now for the spacers. The spacers are segments of 1"CPVC
and you should mark it like this,
and wrap it in duct tape on the larger section until it fits into the 1" PVC tee. I used duct tape because the purpose for it is to space the PVC evenly so the screws can anchor it.
this will be the finished spacer.
Make sure the spacers hold the catch ring in place LOOSELY!!!!
Then you want to screw them in on both sides.
An easy way to measure the correct screw length is to use the end of the coupler with the spacer.
Now for the hard part.
Mark on the lower part of the tee where the trigger is going to go and cut the slot so that the fit of the L-bracket allows NO wiggle from side to side. It should be as centered as possible.
But it the L-bracket should be able to pivot a reasonable distance.
I would suggest cutting the slot smaller than needed and then filed to fit.
Depending on the L bracket you use you might have to drill another hole.
Then line up the position of the bracket and mark and drill a hole.
Make sure another hole is lined up with the bottom of the catch ring.
Then put this together. Add nuts as needed.
Lastly fit put a screw through the hole inside the hole in the L-bracket that is below the catch and add a nut.
Finished ring catch.
Note:This version I put the trigger on the other side for a different homemade.
Note2:If you built it right, when you run the plunger rod through it, it should lock tight and should only let go when the trigger is pulled. Don't worry if the catch doesn't go all the way up without the plunger rod because the plunger rod is what keeps it centered.
I thought I would do something special for my 100th post and with the recent death of my 2k I made it my goal to bring my 2k back from the dead.
The problem I found with my 2k was that the rubber o-ring piece that seals the tank had fallen off from repeated use and got wedged in the back of the tank. In addition to the fixing the placement of the o-ring I also took advantage of the process to improve the airflow of the tank.
stuff needed drill press(preferred)/drill various drill bits epoxy glue 1" PVC end cap dremel dremel cutting wheel large pipe cutter exacto knife
I was removing the goo gage so I separated the tank and trimmed down the nub and stem.
To begin you want to split open the tank somewhat close to the front of the tank. To do this you want to take the pipe cutters and cut as deep as possible.
Only Use The Circular Pipe Cutters!
This will not open the tank, to open the tank there are three bars that can be easily cut with the exacto knife.
The split tank should look like this. (with out the o-ring)
and the top part
and the o-ring
Next replace the o-ring on the front nub of the post that seals the tank.
In addition to the fix, the air flow can easily improved, my tank was already minimized in the front and so I widened the front hole from this:
Next you will need to prepare the PVC end cap. To start you need to drill a centered hole on the top of the end cap.
I personally drilled a hole that fit 1/2" CPVC to make it easy to attach a barrel. In addition to the hole you want to trim the end cap down to fit the tank all the way in when epoxyed.
After that comes the assembly of the tank. First make sure the inside bars are lined up. I marked the direction before I cut the tank open.
Then clamp the tank together and layer on the epoxy.
Once the first layer of epoxy is done drying slather the side of the tank in a lot of epoxy and insert it into the modified end cap. Let dry and attach the tubing and you get the finished product.
The octoshot is a great new modification, but one of the downsides to it is that its necessary to purchase not one but two guns.
To save on the price and to make use of parts in my ever growing parts bin I've developed a way to make an octoshot turret using the original turret and a firefly rotation mech.
To start you will need to strip down the turret and detach the rotation mech. You can junk this or set it aside for another project in the future.
Next you want to take your firefly turret and recover this pice off it.
After that you are going to need to cut down the back rotation mech attachment nub so it is flush with the back of the turret.
The rotation mech should now fit pretty well over whats left of the nub on the turret. But to keep it on you want to take a good sized bolt and slide it through the screw port from the old rotation mech screw port and through the Firefly turret. Then also make sure to line up the rotation mech with the holes and secure it all with a nut. The finished product should look like this.
The next step is to drill the four new barrels.
To do this you need to cut off the screw posts on the front of the turret. Then you use the screw divots on the back of the turret as pilot holes for the new barrel holes.
I used a hand drill so I cleaned up the edges with sandpaper.
The last step to do is to expand the area above the new four holes on the front of the turret and you just need to attach your barrel of choice and attach it to your gun.
the finished product should look like this.I added E-tape to help it stay stable within the shell.
Last note: be careful when drilling holes because if drilled a certain way the turret can crack and break.
About a month ago I acquired a lanard shotgun with plans to make a improved version quadshot. After reinforcing the priming mech, rotation bar, and catch, modifying the turret, and adding padding to the plunger head everything was put back in the shell. Then the first test fire worked fine and the after that stopped rotating except by hand.
After that I went back in and tried to find the problem. My first assumption was that there was too much friction between the turret and the plunger tube. After applying different amounts of lube on the back of the turret to experiment friction I had no results. Then I striped the epoxy putty form the rotation bar thinking that it was getting in the way, and again I had no result.
After finding a new mod on youtube I wanted to try I fished the wreck out of my closet and stripped down the turret of the 9 inch barrels and tried to get the turret to rotate again, and still nothing. Then I tried rotating it without the plunger tube and it worked fine. I know that the seal isn't sticking out too far because the turret is barely touching the seal.
So for christmas my parents got me an actually good, full of vintage, lot of nerf guns. In this lot contained an Expand a Blast. So normally I hopped on nerfhaven and didn't find any mods that mainly contained supplys that I had on hand, and so I went to work keeping in mind that I want to at least make this gun secondary worthy.
This was the outcome I thought Effeminate Longshot style Expand a Blast
Supplies: Buzz Bee missle (yellow one) Longshot front gun long barrel 2: 1/2" CPVC couplers 1/2" 1/2" PVC coupler 1/2" CPVC tee 1/2" CPVC 1/2" PVC extra springs electrical tape sheet plastic epoxy One bone stock Eab
First open up the gun and take out all of the internals throw away the useless stock but before you throw away the front barrel you need to take your needlenose pliers and remove the rubber black piece on the back. Put this aside for later. Throw out the barrel and remove the ar's using the neddlenose pliers
Then you need to cut down the shell. On the inside you need to cut up to the line that holds the ridge of the orange piece
Then on the outside right in front of the scope you need to cut out the smaller sticker ditch and then connect these two cuts in the middle of the oval on the side. (shown below)
Then take the orange plunger tube and barrel piece and replace it back in the shell and cut the same hole that you cut in the shell.
Next you want to cut up your Buzz Bee missle and save a .5-.75 inch bottom part of the missle that wraps around the dart peg. Then take the longshot barrel and cut a segment and glue it in the Buzz Bee foam. Wrap a good amount of electrical tape around the foam and glue the black piece from the front barrel on top
Glue this piece inside the barrel at the back of the orange tube, black piece first.
After that we need to assemble the front barrel. Take the 1/2" PVC coupler and wrap only on half in electrical tape until it fits snugly in the front of the orange barrel. Take a 1/2" CPVC coupler and push it in to the side of the PVC coupler with the tape on it and insert a segment of scrap CPVC in the coupler. Push this piece in the barrel so the electrical tape is just inside it. Then mark where the CPVC comes out of the tube.
Cut this line and tape it on to the end of another segment of CPVC.
Next cut the other CPVC coupler slightly of from the middle and sand inside so CPVC can slide through nicely. Then assemble by raming the CPVC coupler ring in the 1/2" PVC coupler like so.
After that string the piece of CPVC into it so it looks like this.
Now measure from the halfway point of the 1/2"PVC coupler to the end of the barrel and cut a segment of 1/2" PVC to that length.
Remove the taped piece of scrap CPVC and hammer the CPVC barrel into the PVC. It might help to boil the piece of PVC before hammering. Then finish the front piece by epoxying the front barrel on. Do not epoxy front piece into barrel yet
Next the bolt. Insert your plunger with no springs and take a segment of CPVC and push it down the orange tube until catch on plunger rod lines up with the catch. Mark the length of the CPVC where the cut in the plastic is.
Take your sheet plastic and cut out a circle the size of the orange barrel. Then center the piece of CPVC that was just cut and draw a circle of where it is. Then remove the plastic in the middle. I personally melted it away using the tip of my hot glue gun.
Push the CPVC into the newly made hole, the tighter the better. put some glue around the bottom and the result should look like this.
O.K. almost done. Double check the fit by inserting the piece above through the plunger tube and attach the tee with the handle to it. When fit on the handle should be hitting the front part of the breech opening. Epoxy these pieces together and push the bolt foward.
Finally put epoxy around the electrical tape on the PVC coupler and push it into the front of the orange barrel. Keep pushing until the CPVC out the back of it is fully on the CPVC tee.