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Green Wing

Member Since 26 Dec 2009
Offline Last Active Apr 27 2020 08:14 AM

Topics I've Started

Scout with Hornet tank internals

20 January 2017 - 01:04 AM

The goal of this mod was to keep the Scout looking as stock as possible while having decent power. 

 

Materials

1x Hornet tank

1x Secret Strike Pocket Blaster

1x 1/2" PVC endcap

17/32" Brass

1/4" OD Nylon Tubing

1/4" OD Vinyl Tubing

Zap-a-Gap

Epoxy putty

 

First get a single hornet tank and cut it down like this.

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Take the SSPB and cut it like the following. Remove the rubber cap on the blast button. Widen the holes and attach the Nylon stubs. Make sure not to get excessive plastic shavings in the blast button. Glue with Zap-a-gap.

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Now scrap all the original scout internals except the trigger and return spring. Dremel it to fit the Tank and pump. You will also need to slightly Dremel the edge lip of the outer slide to accommodate for how the tank slightly rises above the shell.

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Position the pump with the slide so that you will get a full draw of the pump without pulling it out when slid all the way back. Make sure the slide also can rest fully forward. Attach vinyl tubing to the nylon stubs. You can put a spring inside to help prevent kinking. Use Zap-a-Gap.Once positioned mark the area and glue down the internals. Make sure some of the airtank is sticking out of the shell as pictured. This is for the endcap.

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Next drill a hole in the SSPB pump for a pin to go through. This pin should reach through to the sides of the slide. The pin that was in the Scout should work. Using epoxy putty mold a chunk to hold the pin on both sides like how the stock priming pin worked. Lube the pin when doing this to make it removable. It is important to make the slide have this holding mold on both sides to increase strength.

 

Make sure the epoxy putty does not interfere with the sliding function. Here are some closeups of some of the cuts needed.

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Now cut down the trigger and position the blast button. Once you get the ideal position cut the excess vinyl tubing and attach them to the blast button as shown. Use epoxy putty and Zap-a-gap to secure. This is tight fit so you will need to angle the blast button upwards to avoid kinking in the tubing. 

 

With the cut down trigger you have to get rid of the return spring guide so use epoxy putty/zap to secure it. Also make the base of the trigger wider with epoxy putty so the blast button is depressed more reliably. 

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Cut segments of 17/32" brass and attach glue them into the original dart holders. 

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Dremel the 1/2" endcap to fit the lip of the Hornet tank that is sticking out. Make sure you only glue it to the tank and the side you glued the internals to so that the blaster can be opened.

 

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Takes 20 pumps to activate the OPRV. Hits 60'-70' flat with #6 slugs and a 6" cpvc barrel.

Video with firing demo around 1:30: https://www.youtube....h?v=JjCdDkO_3KU


x2 Hopper HPA Big blast in Shot blast Shell

20 August 2016 - 10:01 PM

The goal of this blaster was to make a a solid primary with the comfortable Shot blast shell.

 

This writeup is a bit sparse on pictures but it should be enough to use as a general guide.

 

Main Materials

-Shot Blast

-Big blast tank(I used the old larger version)

-1/4" Polycarbonate

-1/8" or so Polycarbonate for trigger

-1/4" Vinyl tubing

-1/4" Nylon tubing

-Male Quick disconnect Adaptor

-1/2" CPVC

-2x 1/2 PVC Wye

-1/2" PVC Tee

-1/2" PVC

-Craft foam or thin rubber sheet

 

 

To open the blaster simply unscrew and pop off the external shell first. Then strip the internal airtank and pump. We will not be using those. 

 

Next is probably the most irritating part of this mod. We need to cut the water tank half of the shell in half as it is molded as one piece. I simply used a box cutter knife and patience. Make sure to cut this smoothly or else it will not close up nicely. Keep the orange cap.

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Now we want to take the grey front half of the shell and the water tank half and glue them into one shell. Simply hold them together and use zap-a-gap to glue it together. Use a bit of hotglue to temporarily hold it if you need to. It is essential to make sure both halves come together and close evenly. Reinforce with epoxy putty throughout the contact areas. Just do not overdo it yet as we still need to trim the shell.
 
It is now time to get the Big Blast tank ready. Chop the PVC Tee to leave a flat side and attach it to the tank like a normal coupler mod. Next add the vinyl tubing as we will not use the stock pump. Zorn has a good writeup on this in the directory. Chop off most of the stock pump area so that it will fit in the back of the shell. Line up the thick area of the BB tank with the wider areas of the back part of the shell, it is a close fit(Newer BB tanks are smaller so they fit much more easily). Dremel out the shells to accommodate the tank but do not glue it down yet.
 
 
After that we start on the double hopper portion. Take 2 Wyes and using a PVC/half coupler extension piece glue it to a long 1/4" polycarbonate piece(Make two). The craft foam or rubber sheet goes on these two polycarb parts to make the seal.
 
Add reinforcement via polcarb sheets and epoxy putty. Make sure that the PVC tubes will angle properly when attaching the Wyes.  Dremel out the polycarbonate so air flows to the wyes. The middle polycarb needs its holes placed so that only one will be open and allow air to flow when pushed all the way up or down. Remember to account for the PVC tube from the top wye as the middle polycarb will bump into it. Add slots that stop the middle polycarb on the two positions opening the air flow. I used 8/32 machine screws. Now just sandwich everything then screw/glue it together tightly to seal it. Mine is permanently fixed but it would be simple to do it all mechanically. 
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Once this part is done check the position of the Big blast tank in the shell again and attach it to the X2 hopper piece. Cover up the top and bottom exposed pieces of the tee with thinner polycarb sheets then make sure it is all airtight. Dremel out the shell to allow the X2 hopper to fit also make sure to dremel out the shell to fit the barrels. I used 12" of CPVC.
 
Create a pivot point for the Big blast lever. I used a thick screw and lots of epoxy putty and zap-a-gap to secure it. At this point you can glue down the entire Big blast x2 hopper assembly. make sure everything is straight and reinforce throughly with epoxy putty.
 
 
It is now time to add the trigger and screw ports. I used a mix of nylon rod, epoxy putty and zap-a-gap to create two screw ports in the handle. Use a clamp to hold the two shell halves together evenly then drill, tap and add 8/32 screws.
 
Add some more supporting rods to help the trigger pull as pictured below. I recommend making it a two finger trigger unlike mine to help with the somewhat tough trigger pull and making it one solid piece instead of a polycarb/wire mix. The wire adds flex which slightly detracts from having a perfectly smooth trigger pull. Add the return spring. 
 
Cut the vinyl tubing to size and jam a small section of nylon tubing inside. Use zap-a-gap to secure and seal it and attach the male quick disconnect adaptor. Dremel the shell to let it fit and secure with epoxy putty and more Zap.
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It should now be functional. Whats left is to drill out the front orange attachment to allow the barrels to go through and to glue the front grip in place. There are gaps so you need to use putty to raise the sides if you want the grip perfectly centered. Finally cut the outer shell to fit and reinforce with 1/8th polycarb and epoxy putty. Add a screw to the outer shell where it comes together behind the wye. I also made magnetic dart doors with an o-ring hook.
 
Paint it up and plug in an HPA system and you are good to go. I used a 3000PSI Ninja tank with a Azodin inline regulator to drop the pressure down to usable levels.
 
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Video showing build, HPA system, and firing: https://www.youtube....h?v=zJN2o4IME98
More pictures: http://imgur.com/a/OV0yp

Tech Target Internals Replacement

11 July 2012 - 11:13 AM

This mod maximizes the potential of the Tech Target while keeping the stock look. I have tried many other TTG mods such as the standard coupler, single barrel, and MDET but this is by far my favorite method.
Materials

-1" PETG Tubing
-3/8" square rod
-[k26] spring
-1x 1/2" PVC Coupler
-Small segment of 1/2" SCH 40 PVC
-E-Tape
-Packing Tape(Or just use E-tape)
-1x 6/32 Hex Locknut
-1x 2" long 6/32 screw
-2x 1.5" long 6/32 screw
-1x NF plungerhead w/ O-ring or equivalent

Open up the blaster, then cut down the shell on both sides to look like this:

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Ignore the small hole there for now.

Now cut down your 1" PETG so that it is about 1mm shy of 7" in length. It should fit in the shell comfortably and be flush with the front of the shell.

Cut a piece of 1/2" PVC and cut it down to about 1.5" Put some sort of adhesive on one side and jam it into the 1/2" PVC coupler.

Wrap it in packing tape or E-Tape until it has a snug fit in the 1" PETG. Pad the end of the PVC with 1-2 layers of craft foam, amd push the assembly into the 1" PETG. Wrap some E-Tape near the back of the 1" PETG so that it has no wobble when you close the shell. Now you want to drill all the way through both sides of the shell with the entire plunger tube assembly together, right where the middle of the PVC is in the PETG. Tap it for 6/32.

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Now take your 3/8" square rod and plunger head, push it up to the front of the plunger tube(Coupler assembly inserted) And see how long you want to make the 3/8" rod(Depending on what kind of handle you want).

Drill and tap a 1.5" hole for 6/32" directly in the middle of one end of the 3/8 rod. Attach your plunger head and O-Ring, lube with Silicone grease(I used 2 O-Rings). Pad the front of the plungerhead with 1 layer of craft foam.

Cut a [k26] to 5". This leaves some slack in the front to increase longevity, and reduce kick/noise. If you want you can make it 5.5" to get rid of the slack; but you will need to cut your catch notch farther down than this picture.

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Trim the back of the shell and catch to make room for the 3/8" rod. Make whatever handle you want. I used a piece of 1/2" Nylon rod with a 1.5" 6/32" screw attatching it.

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Now replace your catch spring with something much stronger. I got mine from ACE.

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Goop in the coupler assembly. Make sure the holes line up. Put the rest of the blaster together.

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Screw the blaster together. Then put the 2" 6/32" screw through the front holes you made to attach the coupler assembly to the shell. Trim down the screw so there is just enough for your locknut to attach flush with the shell.

Make a speedloader and you are done!

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The max draw on these is 4 1/4" with 5" of a [k26] spring. If you get rid of the slack with a slightly longer spring, it will be about 4" of draw.

I added cpvc ammo holders. A 9"-11" barrel workes well.

I am getting around 85'-95' flat with #8, #6 and MIG style slug darts. They are super easy to make and are actually quite durable. They have even survived the hands of 13 year olds in wars. :lol:

Firing video if you are interested:

Overhauled Berserker

27 February 2011 - 05:45 PM

First off let me give credit to numa-t49 because I used his writeup for modding most of the turret. Also credit goes to Windcalmer because I decided on where to put the rear-loading slots on my Berserker by using his as an example.

I still plan on doing many more different mods to this, but the basics are finished for now so I am putting up the writeup. I forgot to take a lot of pics, but you should get the general idea. When I open the gun up again for updates I will take much more pics to add into the writeup. Now onto the mod...

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First open up your Berserker. If you have the older one there is a screw underneath the sticker.

Now carefully remove the airgun/BB part. Now unscrew the rotation mech, and remove it. After that cut down the stock barrel so that when you put your CPVC coupler over the stock barrel(After sanding) you can have it inside your rotation mech. Make sure you put on the back of the rotation mech before you attach the CPVC coupler.

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Now glue on the CPVC coupler and put the rotation mech back together.

Side Note: I did this mod on another Berserker but with a PVC coupler also. You will need to widen the hole in the turret and rotation mech for it to work though.

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Now we will start working on the springer portion. Remove the entire springer part from the blaster. Pull out the plunger rod. Now add about a 1/2" of hotglue on the plunger rod so that it compresses the spring fully when primed.

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The stock seal was great so I didn't see the need to replace it. Now take the plunger tube and cut off the orange part for the stock turret seal.

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It should look something like this now:

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Now drill a hole as wide as possible through it. This improves the airflow greatly, helping range. It should look like this now:

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Then I wrapped the end of the plunger tube with duct tape until it would just barely still fit in the shell. Then I put a few layers of craft foam on top and made a hole through it for the air to go through. This was done because the stock seal is too small to work if the turret is rearloading.

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From the front:

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Now we will work on the actual turret itself. My camera died here so I don't have any pictures right now, but I will update this section with pics when I open the blaster up again. However most of this is the same as modding any other Berserkers turret so follow numat-49's write up for making the turret. However make the barrels 3" long and widen the back of each hole so you can rear load it.

Make sure that when you glue the turret together that all the barrels are glued evenly so each barrel makes a perfect seal. If you screw this up it won't work. You will have to adjust the seal by experimenting.

Now its time for the rear loading slot. First remove the stickers that are in the way from the shell. The rest you can probably figure out from the pics.

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Now reassemble the blaster. It should look something like this:

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Now screw it together, make a barrel for the airgun and test it. It takes a lot of experimenting with the seal to get the turret right, but when you do it should shoot about 60' flat with slugs(How far mine shoots with a decent seal).

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Video showing a range test and a firing demo: Linky

Overall I am very happy with the finished product. Rear-loading makes the turret Much nicer to use, and now that it shoots 60' it is much more effective. The airgun works great too. I still have a lot more plans for this and some of the next mods I will do to this are:

-Pump Replacement
-Titan/other airgun integration in the turret
-RSCB the BB

I will update this post once I finish those other modifications.

Basic Eagle Eye Mods

14 November 2010 - 06:55 PM

I actually did this modification about a month ago but never got around to posting it. The mods are very basic and shouldn't need a writeup but I figured it might be helpful to someone newer to the hobby. So anway on to it...

First remove the ammo holder and priming handle. If you can't just rip off the handle use the back of a hammer. Then take out the screws.

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What you should see now:

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Now pull out the plunger rod, and carefully Zap-A-Gap some foam into the plunger head seal(I used part of the back of a BBB arrow). This expands it increasing the seal. Then lube it.

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After that pull out this metal pin in the plunger tube.

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Then widen the airflow. I don't remember the exact size drill bit I used but make sure the hole is no larger then the I.D. of cpvc.

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Now put the pin back in and Zap-A-Gap the little holes. This makes it airtight.

I found that wrapping E-tape around the hole in the barrel still let air escape. So instead I lubed up a piece of cpvc, put it in the barrel pushing up against the hole, and put hot glue on the hole. This made sure no air leaked their anymore.

A short video showing what I am talking about:

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For the barrel I wrapped about 1.5 layers of duct tape around some cpvc. I found that this made it perfectly tight in the stock barrel to be used like a coupler. It is suprisingly airtight. The E-tape is just for a better grip. You could make it a speedloader if you wanted to.

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Now all you have to do is put it back together and your done!

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Range test vid:

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There was no wind and ranges were taken with slug darts and were shot flat. They were shot into grass so there was no dart skip.

Results: 58' flat, 62'flat

Conclusion:
Overall I am fairly pleased with the end product. 60 feet flat is pretty decent for an Eagle Eye. Especially considering that I didn't add any springs, and how easy this was to do. It is still too big to be a sidearm so there isn't much use for it, but it was just a nice fun side project.