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What: KYNO
Where: Robsion Park Louisville, KY
When: September 20th 2014 @ 12:00 EDT
Book of faces
What to bring:
Eyewear is mandatory for everyone under 18 during stock dart rounds
Eyewear is mandatory for everyone during stefan dart rounds
If we are playing a stock dart only (typically only with pistols) round, feel free to go bare at your own risk(only if 18+)
Blasters
Water
Darts
Food and/or money or food
Money for blasters
water
Common sense
Mobstacles
N-Force swords
Rods for clearing out jammed barrels are helpful
What not to bring
Real weapons
Restricted blasters/darts
Super Soakers
Kids under 13
Any homemade melee
Modded N-Force swords
Shields unless it's a Manta
Blasters
No Jobar/cobra/shitcannons/anything for toilets and drains (even for shitting around/clearing jams)
No Titans unless shooting 6+ barrels or stock missile on original pump with OPRV in tact(or similar to duke's banner rifles)
Nothing meant to shoot anything larger then a Vintage Mega with a plugged pump
Stock blasters are okay
Nothing overpowered (over 150 feet with slugs)
Homemades are allowed if following preceding restriction
Darts
Stock darts are okay
#6 Slugs with mcmaster felt pads are okay
No dome darts unless silicone
All stefans that aren't silicone domes must have 1/2" mcmaster felt pad tips
Nothing heavier than 1/4" slingshot weights
No modded darts
No exposed metal
Games
3:15
CTF
DTC
Carpe testiculum(?)
Team deathmatch
Ghost
And Other games
Some aspects are relaxed, some are more strict as I saw fit.
We will try to have less downtime than at the last war.
Attendees:
archangel24
Fitzy
Other local people
Maybes:
Shrub
Other local people
archangel24
Member Since 09 Oct 2009Offline Last Active Apr 16 2018 11:20 AM
Topics I've Started
Afterburner problem
15 July 2014 - 01:52 PM
After a week, I finally got to finishing - or so I thought - my afterburner mod on my Elite Rayven.
Problem being is that for some reason, faux barrel attachments are having an adversely negative effect on the dart trajectory(i.e. darts not leaving the faux barrel after the afterburner about 20% of the time). This includes Longstrike barrels and a Retaliator barrel with thinwall PVC. I added some polycarb/pvc infront of the second motor cage en attempt to alleviate the problem but it didn't help much even though the motorcage is now centered and straight. The faux barrel that connects the two motor cages is lined up and centered.
TL;DR, Theoretically the mod was executed properly but darts don't always leave the faux barrel.
Edit:
To make it more and less erotic just as erotic but more informative on what I did
Problem being is that for some reason, faux barrel attachments are having an adversely negative effect on the dart trajectory(i.e. darts not leaving the faux barrel after the afterburner about 20% of the time). This includes Longstrike barrels and a Retaliator barrel with thinwall PVC. I added some polycarb/pvc infront of the second motor cage en attempt to alleviate the problem but it didn't help much even though the motorcage is now centered and straight. The faux barrel that connects the two motor cages is lined up and centered.
TL;DR, Theoretically the mod was executed properly but darts don't always leave the faux barrel.
Edit:
To make it
Splitfire Help
26 January 2014 - 03:05 AM
Recently acquired a leaky Splitfire. After taking it apart I found the leak, shitty dremel work caused a hole on the front of the left tank. Easy fix, right? Correct, but after maybe a couple days of dry firing to make sure no other leaks were present I noticed the infamous hiss. The right tank wasn't holding air due to the piston not sealing. Usual fix with back pressures is to flush the system with water to be sure there is no debris and pump fast. Worked for a short while but then clearing the water out (dry firing a shit ton of mist, this is KY so you're never firing dry) it stopped sealing again. The system is dry and clear of water now and it still will not seal properly and with the nature of Splitfire internals there isn't much to be done.
Tl;Dr right Splitfire tank piston isn't sealing and the usual methods aren't proving fruitful in the long run. Any other ideas? Did I miss anything? This is a backpressure tank so the normal methods should work but are difficult to execute well.
I even consulted the highest of the elder council of the numerous forests.
Because pictures make anything better.
Tl;Dr right Splitfire tank piston isn't sealing and the usual methods aren't proving fruitful in the long run. Any other ideas? Did I miss anything? This is a backpressure tank so the normal methods should work but are difficult to execute well.
I even consulted the highest of the elder council of the numerous forests.
Because pictures make anything better.
Alternative angel breech reinforcment
26 July 2013 - 09:26 AM
After deliberating for a while on how to go about this, I chose to do what most modders wouldn't.
With the main weak point of an angel breech being the contact point between the nub and the brass, too much pressure and the wrong glue or just prolonged use and this joint will break leading you to adhere it again.
T da B's solution to this problem involved using a bit of copper and brazing/soldering it to the brass. This requires you to find or order a piece of copper, machining it, and brazing it onto the brass.
Personally that doesn't sit well with me, using fire on brass, I'd rather take my chances with carefully drilling brass and I personally have bad luck with brazing/soldering.
There is an inherent risk of denting the brass with drilling it.
Supplies:
-Longshot
-appropriate brass sizes
-super glue
-drill
-solid steel rod (I used one just shy of 1/8"
-patience
-dremel
Start of with making your angel breech, prep and glue the nub onto the bolt but without it fed through the plunger tube. Drill a hole that is the same size as your steel rod carefully through the bolt starting from the underside towards the plastic nub. Make sure that you keep it aligned correctly and that the brass dart pusher doesn't shift. To aid in this task, you can put spare pieces of brass of the right sizes to take up space between the sheath and the pusher, but make sure they are easily removable.
Once you have the hole drilled, make sure that it went all the way through the brass and through the bottom part of the plastic nub, but no further than the hole for the bar that attaches it to the sled.
Detach the nub from the bolt and the brass bolt should look like this.
Cut the steel rod to length so that it feeds through the nub and the brass but doesn't protrude through the bottom but sits flush. Having a good grinding bit or hand files will help to shape it.
Glue the steel rod piece into the nub and feed it through the bolt like so after reinserting the bolt through the plunger tube.
Super glue is enough to hold the rod in the plastic and the brass. Make sure that when you glue the nub and rod to the bolt, that the glue is contacting the brass and plastic at the top. As well as having some glue on the underside of the bolt filling in the hole and sealing it up, be generous on the outside but take care NOT to get any glue inside of the bolt piece as it will cause unwanted friction on the barrel.
Next cut the barrel, you still do the "half pipe" cut like with ordinary angel breeches but you cut a channel in the middle of the top part of the half pipe section. This channel will allow for the steel rod running through the bolt. In the picture it shows the back of the barrel pushed further forward, in my revised set up (no pictures yet) there is a channel cut on the bottom of the barrel too. This helps feeding but increases intricacy. Just keep checking to make sure it all lines up with the steel rod.
Debur the brass and smooth your cuts carefully, it does not have to be straight but close enough to allow the bolt to sheath over it smoothly without the barrel turning.
Nest the barrel in properly and make sure that the breech can open and close smoothly, if there is friction, widen the channel and adjust the barrel accordingly.
Once you have it all assembled, have fun with your longshot with an angel breech that will never break under normal use, even with massive amounts of stress.
Pros:
-added structural stability
-doesn't require special glue
-no flames or solder involved
-lasts longer than a normal angel breech
-puts all stress on the steel rod (in terms of stress put on the bolt and nub itself) and not the glue
Cons:
-a lot more brass cutting
-risk of ruining half of your breech
-increased time for completion of mod
With my earlier versions of this mod, I had, as stated, only cut one channel. This caused problems with feeding as the barrel was pushed further forward than it normally would be.
My personal one had a doubled up sheath, unnecessary but was to test it. 9/16 sheath with 19/32 over it to give more surface area for the rod to push on.
The rod doesn't have to be perfectly aligned, it just helps with stability, reliability, and ease of cutting the channels.
I take no credit for originality, this was all something that shrub and I had discussed at length on how to do it and he had discussed it with another modder. I just simply thought this deserved to be documented and shared.
With the main weak point of an angel breech being the contact point between the nub and the brass, too much pressure and the wrong glue or just prolonged use and this joint will break leading you to adhere it again.
T da B's solution to this problem involved using a bit of copper and brazing/soldering it to the brass. This requires you to find or order a piece of copper, machining it, and brazing it onto the brass.
Personally that doesn't sit well with me, using fire on brass, I'd rather take my chances with carefully drilling brass and I personally have bad luck with brazing/soldering.
There is an inherent risk of denting the brass with drilling it.
Supplies:
-Longshot
-appropriate brass sizes
-super glue
-drill
-solid steel rod (I used one just shy of 1/8"
-patience
-dremel
Start of with making your angel breech, prep and glue the nub onto the bolt but without it fed through the plunger tube. Drill a hole that is the same size as your steel rod carefully through the bolt starting from the underside towards the plastic nub. Make sure that you keep it aligned correctly and that the brass dart pusher doesn't shift. To aid in this task, you can put spare pieces of brass of the right sizes to take up space between the sheath and the pusher, but make sure they are easily removable.
Once you have the hole drilled, make sure that it went all the way through the brass and through the bottom part of the plastic nub, but no further than the hole for the bar that attaches it to the sled.
Detach the nub from the bolt and the brass bolt should look like this.
Cut the steel rod to length so that it feeds through the nub and the brass but doesn't protrude through the bottom but sits flush. Having a good grinding bit or hand files will help to shape it.
Glue the steel rod piece into the nub and feed it through the bolt like so after reinserting the bolt through the plunger tube.
Super glue is enough to hold the rod in the plastic and the brass. Make sure that when you glue the nub and rod to the bolt, that the glue is contacting the brass and plastic at the top. As well as having some glue on the underside of the bolt filling in the hole and sealing it up, be generous on the outside but take care NOT to get any glue inside of the bolt piece as it will cause unwanted friction on the barrel.
Next cut the barrel, you still do the "half pipe" cut like with ordinary angel breeches but you cut a channel in the middle of the top part of the half pipe section. This channel will allow for the steel rod running through the bolt. In the picture it shows the back of the barrel pushed further forward, in my revised set up (no pictures yet) there is a channel cut on the bottom of the barrel too. This helps feeding but increases intricacy. Just keep checking to make sure it all lines up with the steel rod.
Debur the brass and smooth your cuts carefully, it does not have to be straight but close enough to allow the bolt to sheath over it smoothly without the barrel turning.
Nest the barrel in properly and make sure that the breech can open and close smoothly, if there is friction, widen the channel and adjust the barrel accordingly.
Once you have it all assembled, have fun with your longshot with an angel breech that will never break under normal use, even with massive amounts of stress.
Pros:
-added structural stability
-doesn't require special glue
-no flames or solder involved
-lasts longer than a normal angel breech
-puts all stress on the steel rod (in terms of stress put on the bolt and nub itself) and not the glue
Cons:
-a lot more brass cutting
-risk of ruining half of your breech
-increased time for completion of mod
With my earlier versions of this mod, I had, as stated, only cut one channel. This caused problems with feeding as the barrel was pushed further forward than it normally would be.
My personal one had a doubled up sheath, unnecessary but was to test it. 9/16 sheath with 19/32 over it to give more surface area for the rod to push on.
The rod doesn't have to be perfectly aligned, it just helps with stability, reliability, and ease of cutting the channels.
I take no credit for originality, this was all something that shrub and I had discussed at length on how to do it and he had discussed it with another modder. I just simply thought this deserved to be documented and shared.
