Mod Man

Hey, First thanks all to whom all the great ideas have been coming forward lately. For your consideration, The Shaft Collar Catch...Completely contained in the 3/4Tee 7/16ths id shaft collar (drilled out to 1/2in)Upcoming pump action I'm workin on. If you guys want a write up let me know. Feel free to ask any questions and or comments.......Later, Mod

Hey all, I was inspired by the recent "Rainbow" catch design and decided to post this catch plate assembly that I made for a one off gun I have been messing with for about a year now. This isn't meant to be a write up per say but just throwing it out there incase others want to pick up on any of the design ideas or what not. If by chance this design looks like one or many others already out there I extend my apologies now for not paying homage as should be done. There are so many great ideas here online that its hard to say where credit is due but thanks to you all who are putting this info up for us. With that said lets get on with it:





This catch design is way simple, I've found different dia. pipe and fittings that allow me to scale this up (1 1/2 dia.) or down (1/2 in. dia.) to different plunger tube dia. making it very versatile. Only a couple moving pieces keeps it simple and dependable.....and cheap. The catch assembly shown is for a 1 1/2in. dia. plunger tube. I use a 1 in. sch. 40 end cap, Charlotte (round dome type, not flat). I cut a slit the width of the thickness of the catch plate thickness. almost half way around the circumfiance of the cap. Check fit with cut out catch plate. Keep all surfaces smooth burr free. I then drill a hole the in the top of the end cap to accommodate the dia.+ of your plunger rod. This helps stabilize rod and keeps it centered in the catch plate.
Little helpful hint* I always use the factory cut ends of materials I'm using in the tight tolerance places, maybe because sometimes its hard for me to achieve the same quality of cut being somewhat of a hacker and all.
Then I cut 2 rings a 1/4 in. width spacers from 1 in. dia. (grey) sched. 40 conduit, one for each side of the catch plate guide inside the end cap. I also do the same with 2 1/2in. end caps, cutting the spacer rings a 1/4in. wide. These two rings, the 1in.dia. and the 1/2in end cap rings (glued together, one inside the other) make up the guides for the catch plate to slide between, when glued inside the 1in. end cap positioned on each side of the slit opening.
Sorry if this is all so confusing, I will try to do a write up soon w/picture and all. Its just that I'm crazy busy at the present time.
Cut the catch plate itself out of some durable material, lexan, ABS or whatever scraps you might have around. Check fit with dia. of plunger rod you are using. Tap a screw in the bottom of plate, !/2 in or 3/4in. small pan head machine screw will work. Get a small spring with dia. big enough to accommodate screw dia. this will spring load catch plate to engage the notch on your plunger rod.
All that’s left to do is drill a hole in the side wall of your plunger tube (determined by spring length etc.) unscrew the screw and spring, slide assembly down plunger tube to where hole and bottom of catch plate align, screw the screw with spring into bottom of catch plate through the wall of the plunger tube (be easy and just snug up screw, plastic threads can strip without much force)
You can either glue or screw mount the assembly in place. Pressing the screw will lift the catch releasing the plunger rod. Monkey around with it to fine tune the travel and other characteristics desired, hair trigger etc.
Well that’s it, I hope that this info can help someone out there with there build. If you have any questions feel free to post here or pm me anytime. Thanks again for the info you guys offer out to the nic. Later, Mod

Hey, Check it......
Some other changes are its a small hole (screw holes) B mold with an old style plunger head. Also there is some kind of small capacitor or something on wiring between trigger pressure switch and batteries. Best part is the new battery cap with a screw that isn't as likely to strip out. What do you guys think? and are they around your area yet? Cool, Later Mod

Hey, Check it......
Some other changes are its a small hole (screw holes) B mold with an old style plunger head. Also there is some kind of small capacitor or something on wiring between trigger pressure switch and batteries. Best part is the new battery cap with a screw that isn't as likely to strip out. What do you guys think? and are they around your area yet? Cool, Later Mod

Hey Im having problems resizing the image. I've checked out the info posted on it and don't understand when I grab and drag to size....any help is greatly apperciated.

Hey,
One question.......
Is flat Level? Because I know level is flat.


Until a standard is set there won't be any consistency in distance reporting. Your responses are greatly appreciated. Later Mod


p.s. aspects like accuracy and dependability seem like a equally worthwhile pursuit...just a thought.

p.s.s. Please direct your flame responses thru pm's if you would. The negativity thing is a downer...

Hey, I have a bunch of stock NF springs and don't know what to do with them. If anyone knows how to use in a mod. Maybe a ho-made springer....whatever. Let me know, I will give them to you for the price of packaging and the shipping charge. Best way to contact me is through my e-bay account ( I watch that more often ) but pm me here if easier for you and I will check back. Cool Later Mod