Rommel McDonald

Made to hold IV bags or water bottles, these things are freaking perfect for six 18 round extended clips. Comes with a shoulder strap attached and snaps on the back. (no MOLLE straps) The securing straps for each pocket doesn’t quite reach over the top of the clips – they're an inch or two short -- but for those inclined this can be remedied with some additional webbing or swapping in some shock cord. If you cut them off and reattach them they actually fit.

 

You can hang it over you shoulder - it even works over the top of a chest rig; for example you have 6x18 in your chest rig, and have this hanging on the side for an additional 6x18. I added a "waist strap" to mine and it keeps it secure against my body and doesn't move around.

 

The pockets are big enough that you can actually just squeeze three clips in each pouch for 9x18, but it's a bit snug.

 

They seem to average between 10 and 12 bucks with shipping on Ebay: search for "MOLLE II IV Bandoleer" or "IV bandoleer"

 

Spreading the word that Foam Action Networks Tactical OPS returns to SF State!

WHERE:
Malcolm X Plaza
1650 Holloway Avenue, San Francisco, CA
(We will be meeting in the bleachers above Malcolm X Plaza)

WHEN:
Saturday, May 10, 2014
2:00 PM to 6:00 PM

OVERVIEW:
In this special edition of TacOPS, both Insurgents and SOF (Special OPS Force) will be limited in their methods of attack: namely, squads will go about their objectives autonomously, relying on their squad mates for safety and firepower . That's right FANs, both sides will tangle in isolated, intense combat amongst the many choke points SFSU has to offer. This game will be more-so an exercise in stealth, cunning and tactics, though there won't be any restrictions on weapons. Missions will include multi-point Hostage Rescue, GPS assisted VIP/elimination rounds, fortress penetration and more. We'll also do a normal style TacOPS Hostage Rescue to cap off the game, with all the insanity that entails.

Post game, the Foam Action Network's own Darrell "Double D" Lim will be hosting an optional trial of a new game type: Robots, Aliens, and Zombies.

AGE LIMIT:
This game is for players 13+.

WHAT TO BRING:
Bring a Foam Blaster (disc shooters are OK). Blasters can be modded but darts must not be weighted or modified in any other way.
Foam Knives (blades 1 Foot or less in length) are also allowed.
Bring a good deal of ammo (players have been known to shoot over 200 darts per game)
2 way radios (optional but very helpful)
Eye Protection (not required but not a bad idea, as players will be using blasters with more power than normal)

For the full set of rules, check out the game sheet at: https://docs.google....Qox7U02QOGKajMA

As of May 2nd, 10:30am PST, we have 20 players confirmed.

RSVP Through Meetup: http://www.meetup.co...ents/178400322/

So there is the old debate about the air seal for the Maverick -- some people believe there should be no pressure of the air nozzle against the cylinder -- while the other side of the argument is that more of an air-seal is needed. Personally I belong to the latter - that a better air-seal helps ranges.

To solve this problem, in the past people have added craft foam, O-rings, etc, in an effort to increase the air seal. None of these work well - or if they do, don't last very long. This specific aspect has been a design challenge for many excellent modders over the years.

I came up with these two mods after my first removable cylinder Maverick -- I wanted better ranges, and with painted cylinders, the rotation was weak due to friction. I had of course seen and tried the "trigger spring relocation" mod (where you move the trigger spring to another post), but found this to be weak - and it would also bend the spring. I wanted a better seal, and stronger rotation.

Solution 1 - Cylinder Rotation: add another spring IN-LINE with the clutch mechanism. It was so simple, I couldn't believe I hadn't thought of it sooner. The pic is fairly self-explanatory; Hand drill a small hole in the clutch mount, creating a small "cup" or hole at the bottom for the screw to seat into, and add a screw and extra spring. Attach the spring to the trigger, and leave the original spring in place. Bam! Double powered spring - no more rotation problems. (and no bent weak spring)


Solution 2: Improve nozzle seal to cylinder:
So like I mentioned I was making removable cylinder Mavericks and had the "extra" Mavericks for parts. The first time I did this mod, I used the slider spring from one of the extras -- later I bought a box of mixed springs from Ace hardware and used these instead. You can use a slider spring, or any skinny spring that is not too strong.

Again, the following pic is fairly self-explanatory - it's a nozzle spring I added to the Maverick to keep the nozzle pulled forward against the cylinder at all times, increasing the air seal. It is hidden in the upper support arm of the Maverick, and doesn't exert much force -- just enough to improve the seal. The pic is fairly self explanatory on the installation. Drill a hole in the nozzle body, add a spring to the post, carve out some plastic in between to keep it from rubbing.

Be careful drilling the hole in the nozzle body - I use an exacto knife. I have never gone through the plastic to the internal chamber in dozens of applications, but there isn't much plastic to work with, so be careful - less is more.


With the extra trigger spring, the added friction of the nozzle against the cylinder is a non-issue. No rotation or timing problems. The extra trigger spring works great for painted Mavs too - which seem to have some increased friction due to painted parts.

Using the above mods along with air tight barrels and increased spring compression + a bigger O-ring or Teflon tape, you can get 55-60ft PTG with regular Whistlers. (Of course PVC and Stefans even better!)