Daniel Beaver

Did we ever find a replacement for these?

Bumping this thread so that I can find it easily.

Hell yeah, sweet upgrade

Nice, glad to see it's still alive.

I guess the way to fix that rubbing is to get the layer lines orthogonal to each other?

The TPU skirt seals have been working better for me than OG skirt seals. I would recommend trying them out if you've got a printer that can print TPU. They'll give you a perfect seal, while also being very low friction. They were actually the first piece of this I developed, and I've been using them on my SNAP since last year.

Some other notes:

The plunger rod for a full-length Rainfaux is the only piece so far that can't be printed on a standard 200x200 bed - there's just no way to make it small enough. So you'll have to track down someone who has at least a 300x300 bed, and even then you'll have to print it diagonally.

The specific 4x2mm magnets I'm using for the catch are these. You can also use a ballpoint pen spring instead, although it makes the trigger somewhat stiff. The trigger uses a ballpoint pen spring to keep it open; I haven't sourced a specific spring for that yet. I might make that part magnetic as well.

The trigger is a slider, but it wedges against a little lever cam, which then pushed up the screw on the catch. The system has a lot of leverage, and so the trigger pull is quite light. The catch does survive the drop test - it shouldn't go off on it's own.

I use silicone-based Sex Lube for my blasters. That started as a joke, but the stuff works great, so I kept using it. Give it a try! I squeeze a few drops into the front of the plungers, and then run the plunger back and forth to get everything nice and slippery. I also add some to the front of the catch plate, and to the surfaces the trigger slides against.

To get maximum power out of this, you'll need a very long and tight barrel. I'm using an 18" CPVC barrel with ruby darts, which gets me out to 300fps easily. How do you detune it? The best way is to move the catch cutout on the plunger rod back so that the draw length is shorter.

Speaking of modification: this is all designed using FreeCAD, because I want these files to be actually editable by people. FreeCAD can be a little bit intimidating to use at first, but hopefully I've set up the parts in a way where major dimensions can be tweaked easily. That's going to be way more robust of a way of modifying them than trying to hack up the STEP files.

The Pump-action version is in the works as a weird amalgamation of the Quixote, the New Style and Unibody SNAP, using a lot of the same design language. I've been riffing on this same basic body configuration of blasters for more than a decade now, and I just think it's neat and feels great.

The Fauxpupwill be the next version after that... as well as a springer version based on the Sancho Panza.

And of course, I'll have to make the DCIT mk3 for koree