Z4

I wasn’t really happy with my first Disk Shot mod, so I decided to do it again. My main issue with it was the dead space created by the “bridge.” I fix that problem in this modification, and threw in a little something extra.

My project aim was to create a Disk Shot modification that kept the internal coupling and eliminated dead space, and to create a removable 2k turret attachment.

Materials
1 Disk Shot
1 Airtech 2000 turret
CPVC
1 CPVC coupler
1 pen
Electrical tape
Hot glue
Styrofoam
Double-stick tape
Foam backer rod

Tools
Phillips head screwdriver
Dremel with grinding stone
Hot glue gun
Scrollsaw (not necessary, Dremel or hacksaw will suffice)
Drill press (also not necessary, power drill will suffice)
½” drill bit
Hammer

Part I
Open the Disk Shot.


Take your CPVC coupling and cut it as shown in the picture. There should be about ¼” left on one side before the stop.


Dremel out the back of the coupler until it will fit snugly over the lip of the old AR. I didn't even have to glue it after tapping it down with a hammer.



Dremel down the plastic support ring directly in front of the chamber until the coupler fits well. Do this for both sides of the shell.


If you only want to use one barrel, you may close the gun up now. You’ll have to Dremel the inside of the orange ring in order for the barrel to fit.

You’re done with the basic part of the modification. If you wish to add the removable 2k turret, continue reading.


Part II

Drill a 1/2" hole in the front of the blaster just below the barrel hole. Depending on how exactly you drill the hole, you may need to sand it out some. This hole is for the turret axis.


Take the body of your pen. I used a BIC Soft Feel. Any pen that has an O.D. less than the I.D. of the air input on the turret will work. Wrap electrical tape around it until it fits snugly in a small section of CPVC.


Put the small length of CPVC into the coupler. The rear opening of the pen should be flush with the hole in the end of the chamber. Cut the pen off at the front of the shell.

Hello again, Z4 here. I prefer my Disk Shot over other spring pistols. I like its grip, and it is very reliable. I was happy with a simple CPVC mod, but decided to take it up a notch with an internal coupling.

Materials
1/2" CPVC
1/2" CPVC coupler
Teflon or Electrical tape
A better spring (opt.)
Hot glue/Plumber's Goop/your favorite adhesive

Tools
Pipe Cutters
Dremel (opt.)
Screwdriver

I minimized my Disk Shot. Most minimizations hack the excess off at the inner wall, but I wanted the retain the ability to use the ammo holder, so I cut it off even with the trigger guard. The holder is very solid when popped in, but can be removed fairly easily for whatever reason.


Open the gun up. Try not to lose the catch spring, it'll try to pop out. Remove all the ARs.

I replaced the spring with a Tech Target spring. When I give this thing a complete overhaul, I'll put in something stronger. I also wrapped 2 layers of Teflon tape around the plunger head. Note* Teflon tape isn't sticky. If you do more than one layer, it'll naturally stick to itself. Putting the O-ring on over it will hold it down perfectly.


Cut a 5/8" long piece of CPVC. Adhere it to the end of the plunger chamber. I suggest gluing the two orange pieces together, and to the plunger tube itself. Once the adhesive is dry, add a 1/2" coupler.

This step is mostly for cosmetics, though it does add a little stability. Take the orange ring from the front and Dremel it out until CPVC slides through it with no resistance.

Put all the internals back in. Don't forget the two screws in the plunger chamber, and don't forget the catch and trigger springs. I added a bunch of huge Loghomestore FBR for silencing. It works well for that if nothing else.

Close the gun back up. It looks almost completely stock from the outside.

I find that a 3 3/4" barrel works best.


Ranges are about 55' flat with a pair of mini-bungees.

If anything's unclear, don't hesitate to ask.

Questions, comments...?

This is an addition to my original CPVC Crossbow modification (there's a link in the sig). I like the modification, but desired a higher ROF. This is my solution. The turret I constructed is similar to BobaFan's and Rork's, but it's different enough, and I've never seen this applied to a Crossbow. My main aim was to produce a interchangeable turret system that did not include a large range drop (>5').

It is assumed at the beginning of this writeup that Part I has been completed.

Materials:
1/2" CPVC
1/2" CPVC endcap
3/4" CPVC
1/2" PVC
1/2" PVC couplers (2)
#9 O-ring
Loctite Epoxy Putty
Cable ties
Hot glue
Duct tape
1/8" polycarbonate (opt. but strongly suggested)

Tools:
PVC style pipe cutters
Dremel
Cutting wheel attachment
Grinding attachment
Hot glue gun
Screwdriver

Here we go!

Start off by putting a small length of PVC into one end of a coupling. Repeat this step for the other coupling.

Using a Dremel, grind out the ID of the PVC for each coupling until 1/2" CPVC slides through it smoothly.

Grind down the OD of the 3/4"CPVC until it can be inserted into the other end of the PVC coupling. The piece should be about 2 1/2" long.

You now have the completed inner part of your turret.

Take a 10.5" piece of 1/2" CPVC, line it up as pictured, and cut a notch out of 1/2 the circumference.

Now take the Dremel to the front of your Crossbow ( ) It should look about like this. (Mine is a little big, there used to be an internal 2k integration and the barrel was a little below the new hole)

Now using liberal amounts of hot glue and cable ties, attach the axis to the plunger tube/coupler. I used a few small 1/8" polycarbonate scraps for additional reinforcement, and I strongly suggest doing so.


You can now put the internals back in and close up the gun. (I didn't but I didn't know. You can).

Cut a 2 3/8" piece of 1/2" CPVC. This is the "bridge."

Stick the "bridge" into the coupling, and add the #9 O-ring. Use another piece of 1/2" to tap it in better. I'm going to glue the O-ring in because it kept falling out, see what works best for you.

THE TURRET!!! It can have up to seven barrels. I find six to be a perfect balance though.

It is removable to be rear loading and clippable.

On the 'bow:

The Crossbow has a Falcon Super Strap. I really suggest putting one of these on each and every primary you own, they're awesome. I also printed out a original Nerf sticker to put on the side. I love it.

Advancement is an easy motion. I find that I can get off one shot every 1.25 seconds or so.


Ranges (fired flat at shoulder height) are in the high seventies and low eighties. My Crossbow seems to have bad ranges, I'm still experimenting with barrel lengths and types.

Questions, comments...?

My Crossbow has been the victim of many mods. It’s been CPVCed, PVCed, Rawray’d, and experienced a failed attempt at a bolt action breech. The Rawray incarnation was definitely the best, but the brass was a little loose on my darts, and didn’t take advantage of the raw power of the gun. So I decided to CPVC it again, this time with a bit of a twist. I give you Emrys, my Level 4 Crossbow.

Supplies:
1 Nerf Crossbow
3/4in. CPVC
1/2in. CPVC
3/4in to 1/2in CPVC adapter
Plumber’s Goop
2 8x32 3” machine screws
4 #8 washers
2 8x32 nuts
26 ga. sheet steel
Rubber washer

Tools:
Power drill
Dremel
Drill bits
Grinding stone Dremel attachment
Pipe cutters
Hacksaw
Tin Snips
Vise or pliers

(*Note: I had already done most of this modification before taking pictures for a write-up. The following steps are listed as if the Crossbow is fully stock at the start.*)

Open up the gun. The first part of this modification deals with the plunger chamber, which is the big yellow piece in the middle of the gun (mine’s mostly black). Disconnect the old yellow barrel and yellow hose from the plunger chamber. You won’t need either for this mod, do with them what you will.

Cut your 3/4in CPVC to 2” and Plumber’s Goop it to the end of the plunger chamber. This needs to dry about 24 hours for full bond. Try to make sure that it is well centered and straight, the 1/2in CPVC needs to be able to fit over the little yellow nub at the end of the chamber.

While that’s drying, you should do basic reinforcement. Cut a piece of sheet steel to the right length and width to sit in front of the spring rest, and use a vise or pliers to bend it to a right angle, and goop it in. Then cut out a slot for the plunger rod to go through, your cut should be flush with the walls.

For the plunger rod, I did this.(thanks to Gengar003) I also reinforced the back of the spring rest with bolts, like Renegade (thanks to you too) did here. I also suggest using a rubber washer behind the head to improve the seal.

Now that your ‘bow is solidly reinforced and your Goop is dry, take your 3/4in to 1/2in adapter and your Dremel with its grinding stone attachment.

Dremel down the ridge inside the piece that stops the CPVC from going through. The 1/2in CPVC should be a perfect fit in it: the pipe should be able to slide into it with little difficulty, but should not be loose enough to fall out.

Now put the adapter on the end of the 3/4in CPVC. The 1/2in barrel should be able to slide in and be very stable, but fairly easy to remove. The 3/4in pipe and adapter provide much more stability than a simple coupler. An 8-9" barrel seems to work best. (All the pictures are with a 12" one but I was still testing when they were taken).

Dremel out all the stuff between the end of the plunger chamber and the opening at the front.


Now you’re done. I find the new coupling system much more stable, but easier to remove than any other system I’ve encountered. I’m in the process of modifying this design to be turret compatible, and will have another write-up in a few days.

It averages ranges in the mid eighties. (with a pair of mini bungees)

Questions, comments…?

The Longshot scope…wow. Big, unstable, and completely anti-aim, it’s probably the worst Nerf accessory Hasbro has ever made. I’ve read of people putting in Nitefinder internals, and I consider that a good idea. I tried one-upping those removable integrations with the tiny terror that is the LS2k, the best rail accessory in the history of Nerf. Let’s see what you think.

Materials
LS scope
At2k internals
Hot glue and a strong epoxy of some kind

Tools
PVC pipe cutters
Screwdriver
Hot glue gun
Dremel

Open the scope in any way you want. After taking out the screws, you still must contend with the yellow rings. I just completely cut them off with some pipe cutters. A hacksaw or Dremel would suffice. However you do it, it should look like this.

Dremel out the little tabs on both sides

Now screw the sides back together. You should cut a two notches on either side for the 2k turret. You need to glue the 2k valve into the turret, otherwise triggering it will pull the valve out. Apply hot glue and Plumber's Goop liberally to one side of the scope and to the turret and attach the two.

The hot glue should hold it until the Goop sets up. I find it to be perfectly stable glued to only one side, I can rotate it violently and it doesn't give one bit. If you want, you can add a little hot glue to the other side.

You can add a keyring and a pump. I just used the stock 2k pump. As for attaching the pump to the side, put it wherever you feel like, I just glued it to the side.

It’s done!

I realized after reassembly that I left out the rail clip (oops), but it does give me another opportunity to show the innards.


The LS2k on a few guns:



What do you guys think?