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DTReaper

Member Since 06 Sep 2005
Offline Last Active Apr 03 2011 05:26 PM

Topics I've Started

My Bbb

07 August 2008 - 04:41 PM

So this is my new BBB mod it is essentially the same thing as nitewalkers but I used a different technique to build it.
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While he cut the tube to an angle and glued it into a holder I used a grill and heated up the CPVC pipe and made it malleable and bent it to the desired shape in this case an "S" like shape. The trick to this is to get it hot enough to be bent but not so much that it begins to turn into a liquid, also you need to keep it from deforming the general roundness of the tube at the bends because it will flatten out slightly if it is forced to much to bend. You also need to be careful that parts you dont want to bend dont because if you heat it up all the heated parts will bend slightly

After you bend the pipe to the correct shape you will need to cut a hole in it for air input to be attached to. I used my dremal and just cut it out. I used some 1/2 inch PVC for a support for it so it would be straight. I used hot glue and glued it together and made it complete.
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For the dart advancer I used a modified pump from a water rocket toy. Here is a picture of it http://www.spacetoys...FRW16-1.jpg.jpg . I simply attached the pump to a 1/2 inch cpvc endcap with a length of tubing. Posted Image

So it was a relativly simple build that I had been planning for quite some time but only have just now gotten around to it. There are still some issues with the advancing of the darts that need to be worked out but otherwise it works fine. No ranges as of yet but once I get it all fixed I will get them up.
Questions, comments?
-DTR

M.p.p.v.p.g. (mass Producable Piston Valve Pneumatic Gun)

21 July 2007 - 03:26 PM

Ok so while I was making my last gun I was thinking of ways to fix and improve my pnuematic gun that I have and broke twice. I origanally repaired it for a leaking schrader valve (I tried to epoxy one in ther and it didnt work so well). After this repair for some reason I replaced one of the pieces of white PVC with a piece of conduit PVC and this worked for awhile but after I dropped the gun alittle I tried pumping it up and once I hit 140 psi (a pressure I reached severl times without fail) the piece with the conduit PVC shot out of the airtank and that piece hit a fence resulting in severe damage to all parts except for the airtank seen here
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Now with this busted ass gun I decided that if it was broken like this I should make it better and I came up with a pnuematically actuated piston valve. I have several drawings here is a hand drawn one with no markings
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and here is one made in paint with markings
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Now if you have any particular questions about these just ask and I will try to answer them. Also as a side note for the drawings the neoprene washers most likely can be replaced by several o-rings. Now I have most of the parts I need for this gun but I still need a few last parts before I can finish these include a schrader valve and 2, 1 and 1/4 inch neoprene washers (if I decide to go that way). Also I could change the ballvalve in the valve for one of those blowgun things. Here is a picture of all the parts I currently have
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I hope to start this project fairly soon but I don't know when I can but I will try to update from time to time.
But for now and questions comments or suggestions

-DTR

M.p.c.bar (mass Producable Clipped Bolt Acton Rifle)

08 July 2007 - 10:55 PM

Now before I start this site has a picture of the gun that is the inspiration for this upcoming gun.
http://www.berettawe...ta_PM12_Ins.htm
On this site is where I will aquire most of my information.
It is the Beretta Model 12 S, cal.9 mm. Parabellum Sub-machine Gun. Now on to the specifics it will be spring powered and be bolt action with a working clip and breech. I will most likely try to keep with my idea that simple is better. I plan on using a clothes pin trigger and the breech will be made using brass and most likely be the one that ompa used in his version of the SCAR-N. Now changes to the inspiration gun, first off it wonít have the safety trigger on the grip. It also may have a stock I am not sure at the moment we will see if I come up with anything. Other than that I may change the bolt on the other side but that is unlikely. Also the dimensions on the gun may not be identical to the real gun. The reason why I chose this is because it seemed almost perfect for nerf for several reasons. On is it has a large area that can accommodate a clothespin trigger. Second it kind of does look like a nerf gun I mean the barrel sticks out a good inch or two and the main section is circular in nature so PVC will work quite well. Now these are the parts I currently done
-the front end cap
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-plunger head and part of catch
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-back endcap
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-magazine
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So this project is likely to take a while but I will continue to update it over a while.This is the first time I am trying this method of posting the gun like this but it may end up being better then the other way I did it before.
Tell me what you think thoughts ideas questions
-DTR

Mpsp (mass Producable Spring Pistol) Mk. I

01 July 2007 - 07:34 PM

The MPSP is my newest homemade in my series of guns. This is a Snap based gun with my own characteristics.
Here it is:
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What you will need to make this beast of a foam firing weapon is
-1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe (outer shell)
-1 inch PVC pipe (for one part)
-2, 1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (for catch and end piece)
-3/4 inch PVC pipe (pistol grip)
-2, 3/4 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (For inner parts and plunger head)
-1/2 inch PVC pipe
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-angle iron
-washer with OD about that of 3/4 inch end cap
-#6 1/2 inch pan head screws
-cloths pin
-25 LB spring
-1 and 1/2 inch neoprene washer

Part 1 Front end cap
Materials
-1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-1/2 inch PVC pipe
-super glue
-dremel with sanding drum and cut off wheel
-electric tape
OK so what you have to do is cut a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe the length of the hole in the reducer. Then you glue that piece into the reducer using superglue. It should look like this
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Next take your handy dandy dremel and using a cutoff wheel cut the back part of the reducer off. Now using a drum sanding part for the dremel sand the inside of the 1/2 inch PVC pipe till you can fit a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC inside of it. Now add some electric tape around the outside of it till it fits snuggly inside the 1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe. It is now complete this is how it should look
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Part 2
This is the other end cap and will serve as a hold for the plunger part.
materials needed include
-3/4 inch PVC end cap
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-electric tape
-PVC cutters or hack saw
-hot glue
-drill with bit set
-dremel with sanding drum
Take your end cap and cut a hole in the end of it using a bit that will fit a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC into it the more centered the better but it doesnít need to be perfect. Here is what it looks like
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Now take your coupler and using PVC cutters or dremel with cut off wheel cut the coupler in half but leave one side with the actual divide seen inside of it. it looks like this
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Save this piece for later. Take the piece without the divider in it and take the dremel sanding drum and get it so a piece of CPVC will slide through it easily but it must be able to keep the piece stable. Now wrap the coupler in electric tape till the outside matches up with the inside of the end cap. Place it inside and the glue it in with hot glue. It is now done and looks like this
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Part 3
This is the inside coupler bit that holds the barrel and stops the plunger form exploding out the front.
Materials needed
-1 inch PVC pipe
-3/4 inch to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-superglue
-dremel with drum sander
-PVC cutters or hacksaw
Ok this piece is relatively simple take the leftover half of the coupler from part 2 and dremel the outsides till it fits into the 1/2 inch side of the reducer. Using superglue secure it. Next dremel the inside of some 1 inch PVC pipe till the reducer fits inside it. It will now look like this
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Then cut the reducer down to the part where the 1/2 inch section ends. Add some layers of electric tape till it fits snugly and set this piece aside for later. This is the finished part
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part 4
The plunger is probably the most time and labor intensive part of the entire gun. It will take many parts and is the main piece of the gun.
materials
-1/2 inch CPVC and PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-washer with OD about that of 3/4 inch end cap
-3/4 inch to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-3/4 inch PVC end cap (rounded top is preferred)
-1 and 1/2 inch neoprene washer
-# 6 1/2 inch pan head screw
-small washer to keep the screw and neoprene wash on
-superglue
-dremel with cutoff wheel and sanding drum
-drill with drill bit set
Ok ill divide this into 2 separate to keep it simple
The first part will be the plunger head. To make this you take the 3/4 inch reducer and the 3/4 end cap and you first need to cut them down to make them smaller and lighter. Cut down them about 1/4 of an inch each and then so the fit together evenly. Glue them together using super glue. they should look like this
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Now take some 1/2 PVC pipe and cut it to the insert length of the reducer on the 1/2 inch side. Glue this in with super glue and dremel out the insides so that 1/2 inch CPVC can snuggly fit inside it. Now comes the tricky part you must mark the center of the end cap for the drill hole. I just guesstamated it and used permanent marker to mark it. Drill with a slightly smaller drill bit then the screws and using the drill, drill the screw in with the neoprene washer and small wash inside it. It should not look like this.
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Next part takes a while for me due to the lack of parts at my home depot but you may have more luck than I do. If you don't using a drill bit like this
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Drill out the inside hole in a washer to the OD of CPVC pipe. Itís simple but gets annoying if your clamp doesnít work well. Now take your 1 inch reducer put a length of 1/2 inch PVC pipe inside it as all the other times before and dremel out the inside till it snuggly fits 1/2 inch CPVC. Now cut down it so the part with the 1/2 inch piece is in is all that remains with the nub part. Now this also takes awhile to do dremel down the outsides so it looks almost like a dome. It should look like this now
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This second part is now done. Now to put them together you will need a length 1/2 inch CPVC pipe to connect them. Put the plunger head part on first. Super glue it on and push the CPVC all the way on till it bottoms out. This is how it should look
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Next figure out the length you will need I got roughly 10 and ĺ inches of it. This can be trimmed at the end but this is a good starting point. Now take the washer that you bored out and put it on first next the other piece with the curved part facing away from the plunger head. Now you want to get it as close a possible but still have room for the catch nail. So give about 3/16ths of an inch and this is only an approximation for my nail. Use a little bigger amount than you nail that you plan on using. Now super glue this thing in place and make sure you got it right the first time because super glue works very fast.
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Now if you want to add a small bead of hot glue around the inside of the washer to keep it there. The completed part will look like this.
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Sorry having problems with picture limit





Now the spring needs to be prepared the spring comes in a pack of two and we will be using 1 and a half of them so you need to take your dremel and cut one in half. They should now look like this
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Now put the springs on and then put on the end cap part 2 to it and youíll have completed all the internals.

Congratulations you completed the first step
Next is the outer part that holds all of these and the trigger mechanism (ie. carbons trigger type or clothespin trigger).
materials
-1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC pipe
-epoxy
-PVC cutters or hacksaw
-drill with drill bit set
-sand paper
-hot glue
-4 #6 1/2 inch pan head screws
-Nail (preferable a strong one)
-angle iron
-clothespin
Ok this is one of the easiest parts but requires a lot of precision drilling and time due to drying. First cut two lengths of 1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe to 9 and 3/4 inches. After this you need to mark out where the internals are and where the catch hole will need to be drilled so mark out the parts with it next to the shell. The catch hole for mine was about 3 and ĺ inches in but this may vary so be sure to measure it out. With it all marked out the next phase can begin. First put all the parts inside it and the drill two holes into part 1 and part 2. Like seen in the picture below
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(note ignore the holes and only concentrate on the blue permanent marker)
Note these holes are not all the way through the part and are just pilot holes for the screws that are now needed. Now screw the screws in and then take them out. Now we need to glue in the stop plate AKA part 3. Put in the plunger and end piece (part 2) and have this screwed in. Now make sure the plunger is in with the springs not bouncing around but also not compressed so just on the border. Now take your hot glue or if you really want to super glue and glue this in making sure it is in there mildly well. As seen in picture
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Now put the other end piece in and screw it in. Now comes the trigger mechanism. It is basically a carbon based clothespin trigger mech so it is really easy. Now take your clothespin and cut it down and drill a hole in it as seen in the picture
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Now take your angle iron (while any piece of metal with a bend will work I find itís easiest to use an angle iron found at your local home depot) and your nail. Using the dremel and cut off wheel cut down the nail to about an inch this should also be created to your gun however because if its too long it will hit the spring if its too short it wonít catch or will have trouble catching so a happy medium needs to be found. Now take your sand paper and sand down the angle iron and nail and bottom part of the clothespin. This will ensure good bondage with the epoxy. When the epoxy dries it will look like this
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Now we need to drill that catch hole so take the shell part with all the internals and take a drill bit a bit bigger than your nail and drill into the area calculated on your markings. Now this may need to be drilled again because I have found that sometimes the nail catches on the inside of this and have troubles. Now take your entire catch assembly and hot glue it on the shell and the nail in the hole as seen below be sure to be liberal with the glue and round those edges because rounded edges take force much better than globbed edges (this is actually true thank you intro to shop class).
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Now once this is dry and you want to try it go ahead this is a good time to see if it works and if you need to make adjustments.
Troubleshooting for this part
Problem: The nail comes out and gets stuck
Solution: This is natural and will happen but if it isnít going back in smoothly then you will need to break out the drill and drill out the hole for the nail a bit. Not a bigger size mind you but just use the bit and angle it so it removes some of the inside PVC
Problem: the plunger isnít accelerating fast or nearly fast enough.
Solution: add lube I personally use stuff for paintball gun o-rings because I have it but some other common lubes I have heard of is silicon spray (however I find this is more of a short term solution), vegetable oil, and soap. Now Iím not saying any of these should be used over the others use whatever you want these are only suggestions.
(if I encounter any more problems at this stage I will give you solutions or if you need help I will help you and add it here)
Congrats you have completed the basic gun now for the lower receiver
This part also takes a bit of time to get done and also needs attention to details.
Materials
-1 and ľ inch PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC
-3/4 inch PVC pipe
-Balsa wood
-#6 Ĺ inch pan head screws
-epoxy
-sandpaper
-drill with bit set
-dremel with cut off wheels and drum sander (or a hacksaw and file if you donít have a dremel)
-hot glue (and lots of it)
Ok so now we begin the lower receiver. This Part is last but still important for the gun it incorporates your handle and covers the trigger mech. I will divide this again into two parts first is the cover. Take the length of 1 and ľ inch PVC for when you made the shell or if you didnít read well before cut a length of 1 and ľ inch PVC the same length as the shell. Ok now take this and match it against the back and see how big you need to make it. This will need to allow the trigger to move yet still not be too big. I find it best to size it up by eye and go for a little bit small because thatís what a dremel is for. But if you donít have one go for a bit bigger. Ok now that you have measured it now draw lines in permanent marker along the sides like seen below
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This is where you need to cut fairly simple so take out the dremel with cutoff wheels and begin cutting (note to all those kiddies out there Wear fucking eye protection these cut off wheels shatter and fly all over the place at high speeds. While these places could be harmless it could also be your eye and that wouldnít be pleasant now would it). After you finish cutting it out now you need to make the trigger hole. Mark it with a permanent marker and cut it out using your dremel. Now you need to make it look nice so youíre your dremel or file whichever and sand down the sides of it so it only contacts the shell at one point and makes it look better over all. This is what it will look like
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Now you need to fit this and I know what your thinking electric tape no, no electric tape. This is a beautiful thing we are making not a rag tag thing so you need to make supports for it so bust out the 1 inch PVC pipe and cut two pieces of it about 5/8th inches across (this isnít exact just a rough estimate). So now you need to attach these so take your cover and place it on the shell in the location it is going to stay. Now if you donít want to hold it there while you measure you can use electric tape temporarily secure it in place. For you inexperienced this is a good idea. Now you may ask why I didnít you do this when you were making the shell and my answer is simply this it is much easier and more effective to do it this way as it gets a much better fit. Now take the pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe and match them up against the side and mark them where it intersects the shell and stays within the cover. Here is a pick of me doing this
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Repeat this for the front and back with the two pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe. Now donít confuse these two parts if need be write F and B on the parts. Now cut off the part that is not needed. Now I find it easy to get it right on the first time but if you want to you can make it a bit big so you can sand it down to fit the sides of the shell better. Now mark on the shell where these two pieces will go you want them about ĺ of an inch in form the sides. Now roughen up these spots with sandpaper so the epoxy will adhere well to the surface. Now epoxy these pieces on and make sure you do it right itís a pain in the ass to redo. Here is a picture of it
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While you wait for your epoxy to dry this is a perfect opportunity to make your pistol grip. So this is the second phase. Get a length of ĺ inch PVC pipe (while I use this because it suits my hands best you can use whatever you like to make it hell I donít care if you use 2 inch PVC if it suits you but here is how I make them). Ok so take your ĺ inch PVC and cut it into 2 lengths and cut the ends at an angle to give it a better look (unless you like the straight vertical grip in which case ignore this step). Now match up the pieces next to each other and mark where they match like so
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Now take one and cut it vertically and so more is on one side then the other. Arrange the pieces so it goes fat half whole piece the skinny half in that order and glue them together. It will look like this
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On now once this is dry take your hacksaw and cut off any uneven edged at the top and bottom so it looks uniform and like a pistol grip. Now take the top part and get you dremel and sand it down with an angle like the cover has so I attaches better. Ok once this is done get you cover piece and attach the grip just behind the trigger hole and use hot glue to secure. Glue the contact points the around the base of it then down the middle of the whole PVC tube in the pistol grip. When attached it will look like this
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Now once the epoxy has fully cured it is time for the next step. If there is any epoxy that seems excess or you got it where you didnít want it then itís a simple mistake and you can just sand it away. Now place the receiver over the parts that it was meant to be placed on and figure out where the 1 inch piece is underneath it and mark these with a permanent marker. Now get your drill with drill bits and get a bit that is just a bit smaller than the screws and make two holes in the back one approximately at 60 degrees and 120 degrees with the middle of the shell as the center. Now put the two screws in these and now drill a third hole in the front one at the center and put a screw in this. Also if you want to you can add a layer of balsa wood to cover the front and back holes in the lower receiver and on the bottom of the pistol grip. They will look like this
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Now there is one last thing that needs to be done go get a metal clothes hanger. Now drill a hole about the size of the diameter of a clothes hanger wire into the plunger part sticking out the back. Now estimate how long you want your pull back part to be and cut it to length (this varies from person to person so you decide) Now get some sort of foam padding to put on it a pool noodle will work or maybe some FBR. Now use some electric tape and strap it on there because it hurts to pull back without it.

CONGRADULATIONS you gun is now done to the basic amount.

Now if you like to have your gun ďpimped outĒ these are several things you can do
1. Paint nothing doesnít love a good paint job I recommend krylon fusion itís designed for plastics its what it does
2. A trigger guard I donít like them but if you do knock yourself out
3. Sights while some donít use them and others get caught in holsters the might look cool or you might actually use them
4. a holster useful efficient and cool

This is only the production part of the gun it's all basic and not painted ofr now. But wait and in like 2 or 3 day the gun painted and looking really good so just wait for awhile for it.
Any questions or comments?

-DTR

Mpcp (mass Producable Combustion Pistol)

26 June 2007 - 12:38 PM

Well seeing as I have many new homemades in my posession and my newfound want to post I suppose I will show you some of my new homemades. This is one of my recent homemades it is a combustion type pistol.
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Materials needed
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC (combustion chamber and housing for ignition)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC coupler (combustion chamber)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (combustion chamber to barrel adaptor)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC male coupler (combustion chamber)
-1 and 1/2 inch PVC threaded endcap (end part of combustion chamber)
-1/2 inch PVC female coupler (barrel coupler)
-1/2 inch PVC male adaptor (barrel coupler)
-1/2 inch PVC (barrel)
-3/4 inch PVC (grip)
-two bolts (ignition system)
-6 nuts (ignition system)
-bbq ignitor (ignition system)
-PVC glue and primer
-hot glue
This is a fairly simple and cheap homemade to make. It fires stock micros and mega stefans. However it also can be used to fire a volley of airsoft bb's or really anything else that will fit inside the barrel. You need to glue all the pieces together as seen in the picture above. The using a drill crill to holes in the chamber for the botls as seen in this picture
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Make sure the bolts are in the correct position and attach the BBQ ignitor. now check and see id the spark jumps the gap between the two bolts for a good ignition. Now cut a piece of 1 and 1/2 inch PVC and trim it to fit the length of the combustion chamber and then tri it so that it fits over the BBQ ignitor. Now the pistol grip. I use 3/4 inch PVC becuse its comfortable to me but you can use whatever you like. I cut two identical lenghths of it at a slight angle the cut one lengthwise and at and angle. The trim them down using a dremal and glue them together using hotglue. Wait for this to dry and attach it to the 1 and 1/2 inch PVC that covers the ignitor at a length comfortable for you. Using liberal amounts of hotglue attach it or if you want to you can use something stronger but hot glue works for me. Now it is ready to fire. Take off the barrel and insert ammo then close that up and open the back endcap spray a small 1 second burst of your fuel into it (fuel can be something like axe which i use or hairspray or anything really flammable gas). Now it is ready to fire point it at your target and pull the ignitor. If you did it right you will have succesfully shot your gun if not the try to get the air to fuel mixture right.
ranges: unknown
fun factor: 8

Have fun with another fine product for DTReaper
Questions comments?

-DTR