MercenaryXero

The goal of this project was to build a reloading system that was both fast and sturdy. After seeing Rork's teaser thread, I got to work.



The bolt is made from a 14" CPVC barrel with a 1" section of sch 40 1/2" PVC hammered on to the end. I used cut down 3/4" fittings (endcap and plug). The endcap lets 1/2" PVC through and the plug lets CPVC. The Barrel goes through the endcap and the plug, with the PVC anchoring at the back due to the plug having a smaller lip. I used E-tape on the exposed end and put a sheath of sch 20 1/2" PVC. I then reinforced it all with epoxy putty.

The front bushing is a 1"x1/2" reducing bushing with the inside sanded so that the 1/2" PVC moves freely. The rear receiver is half of a 3/4" coupler with E-tape and teflon tape wrapped around it. The SNAP itself is a SNAPbow, in the fact that it uses a +bow spring and a similar plunger head.



The spring is there because it wasn't cocking securely before.



Comparison with a BBB.

Ranges haven't been taken, seeing as its dark outside, but is shoots incredibly fast and hard. (I made a point of increasing the resting spring compression)

Questions? Comments? Flames? I don't get this tradition, if someone's gonna tear into you, they will, regardless of your invitation...

Anyway, don't mind me, enjoy.

I'm not one for unnecessary talk, so lets get going, shall we?



Here it is. I'll be discussing each feature individually.


Titan Integration



This one is fairly simple. Take your titan and attach it to your SNAP, making sure that a tube receptor is available at the bottom. Add a CPVC coupler, and a trigger of your choice. I added a layer of foam for comfort.


Pump-Stock



Take your Titan pump and a short section of CPVC. Wrap the CPVC in duct tape until it won't move in the pump handle. Now dremel a slot for the pump housing in the end of your handle. I then used epoxy putty to secure it.

Extend the pump handle into the 1/2" receptor at the end of the stock, so that one of the two holes in the handle is inside. (for this part I used a 3/4" L with a reducing bushing to 1/2") Then screw a 1/2" CPVC endcap into the handle.

Cut a piece of 1/2" PVC about 6" long (I used sch 20 to reduce weight). Cut down the length of it twice to create a slot about 1/2" wide. Now take a 1/2" coupler and do the same, taking just under half of it off. (this will help it grip the PVC while keeping friction low) Using a dremel, sand out the middle where the actual coupling would be. You now should have a completely even surface on the inside of the coupler.

Now take another 1/2" CPVC endcap and screw it into the top of your coupler. I used a metal-grinding bit on my dremel to grind the protruding end of the screw down. I also added epoxy putty to strengthen the joint. Here comes the part that you need to adapt to your own SNAP. Measure the distance between the two endcaps (see the picture for proper placement of the 6" PVC and coupler) and cut a section of CPVC to connect them. Secure the PVC with glue, and fasten the CPVC with screws. (I highly recommend this, mine was prone to breakage at MNHNO due to not having the screws)


Brass Breech and Barrel


[Closed]

The breech and barrel are made from 17/32 brass with the sliding cover being 9/16. The PVC casing is 3/4" PVC with 1/2" inserts. (this works because both are only about 3/4 complete, being grooved to accommodate being attached to the SNAP body more easily) The slider is a smoothed 3/4" coupler. It is attached to the 9/16 by a thick nail which attached to the brass with epoxy putty. The bit of putty on the top secures the nail, as well as being a sight of sorts. The Titan connects to the breech via vinyl tubing, wrapped in teflon tape at the breech end.

Tacticool Rails



This bit is fairly simple. If you have a SNAP with a coupler on the front, skip the next few sentences. Take a 1 1/4" coupler and cut it a little off-center (rork goes into more detail in his topic). Now, cut it in fourths (you'll only need two, but I used the others for support). Place two of them as seen in the above picture. Now cut two strips of 2" PVC (proportional to the length of your blaster) and screw them in to the front and back. You may need longer screws, depending on your SNAP. Note: if you add the other two coupler bits, as I did, DO NOT use screws, because they would get hit by the plunger, therefore fucking up your shit.


SNAP Internals

[sorry, no pic]

My SNAP uses modified SNAPbow internals. The main difference is that instead of having my cotter pin on the end of the CPVC rod, the rod extends into the 3/4" plug, allowing the "wiggle room" to be adjusted with various lengths of tape wrapped around the rod. The cotter pin is inserted where the CPVC exits the plug. (I didn't need to cut down my endcap, I don't know if it is a result of this method or not)


Overall, this think kicked mad amounts of ass at MNHNO. Ranges are good/average for a SNAPbow and lower/still more than enough for a Titan. (lots of dead space in the tubing)

There's something to be said for having a gun that has two barrels shooting ~110 consistently. Anyway, I hope you guys like it.

-MercenaryXero