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Lpl Cs Construction Writeup

03 April 2009 - 07:52 AM

Welcome one and all to my LpL CS Construction writeup.

This has been a long time in coming being as I've been too busy making them for comission to do pictures, but finally it is here and you can all rejoice.

To build an LpL CS, you will need a few things, and it is much cheaper to do so if you are also building a +Bow
You can find the details of the materials needed in the L+L CS SDK Thread this guide will cover construction of the LpL CS.

Tools Needed:
Scroll Saw or JigSaw
Drill Press or handheld Power Drill
Phillips Screw Driver
Knife (To clean the edges of the polycarbonate)
6-32 Tapping Bit
13/64" Drill Bit
5/32" Drill Bit
7/64" Drill Bit
5/16" Spade Bit
3/8" Spade Bit
9/16" Spade Bit

You will also need some full sheet label paper to print out the templates on.

Print out the templates and cut them out, lay them out on the polycarbonate along with your +Bow templates, it should only take one sheet of 1/8" and one sheet of 1/4" total.

Cut out the polycarbonate pieces using a scroll saw or jig saw, and make sure to cut out or drill out all the interior holes as well. Pay special attention to the catch drilling because you are going to use a 5/16" Spade Bit, NOT the 9/16" that the template indicates. If you lay the spades out you'll see that one fits the hole marked and one doesn't.

Cut the main spring in half, leaving a 6" piece, you can cut it to 6.5" if you want but it's not going to help anything.

Cut a 6.5" piece of PETG tube, yes this wastes 4.5" of a 12" piece, but I'm sure you can figure out something else to do with it.

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This is what you should have when you're done.
1 Set of Polycarbonate pieces, cut and drilled
1 Main Spring, cut to 6"
1 Catch Spring (You'll have to find one of your own, the one in the pic is an Ace, I think it's #178)
1 6.5" length of PETG Tube
2 3/4" Lengths of 1/2" Nylon Rod drilled through the center with a 5/32" Bit
3 3/4" F to F standoffs (Yes, there's 5 in the picture, you need 3)
4 1/4" F to M standoffs
2 3/8" Unthreadeded Round Spacers
1 1/2" OD, 1/8" Length Unthreaded Spacer
1 1/2" Screw Size 1-3/8" OD Extra Thick Reinforced Rubber Washer
8 Nylon 6/6 Flat Washers
5 3/4" Screws
1 1-1/4" Screw
2 2" Screws
9 3/8" Screws
10 1/4" Screws
3 Lockwasher Integrated Nuts
1 SCH40 PVC Pipe Fitting 1" to 1/2" Compression Fitting

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Use your Tapping bit to thread all the appropriate holes, two on each trigger housing piece, two on each grip piece, one on the catch plate and four on the fixed catch plate.

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Peel off the templates and the protective plastic from all your polycarb pieces, leaving you with your materials.

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Assemble the catch, gather the two pieces of the catch together and place 4 nylon washers over the holes on the fixed catch plate, put the other 4 nylon washers on 4 3/4" Screws. Place the catch plate over the fixed catch plate and insert the four screws into their corresponding holes. Tighten them down almost all the way, making sure that the catch plate can freely move vertically but that it doesn't rattle back and forth.

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Gather the pieces pictured above in order to assemble the grip.

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Screw the M to F standoffs into the threaded holes on top of the trigger housing pieces and use3/8" screws to attach the trigger housing pieces to the grips as pictured.

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Use the 3/4" standoffs to attach the two resulting pieces together, two standoffs in the grip and one to attach the lower part of the trigger housing. Use 1/4" screws to attach.

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Your completed grip should look like this.

New Longshot Spring

02 April 2009 - 02:56 PM

So I was over at K-Mart picking up a Longshot for a commission that I received and I noticed that they had the yellow longshots in stock.

So being the smart person I am, I picked up their last blue one, figuring that by the nature of nerf, it would be better.

Well, I got it home and took it apart, and to my amazement I found that it has a new spring.

A new, suckier, spring.

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The Silver is the old spring, the black is the new.

The black's wire thickness is slightly smaller than the silver, and the resistance to compression is noticeably lower.

So I suspect the yellow LS is going to suck, but we'll see after I'm forced to buy one for a commission.

Search Nh With Google!

10 March 2009 - 01:31 PM

So since you all are spazzing out about the 500 errors that have been happening, here's something you can do to save the server a little bit of load.

Go to www.google.com

Enter your search term, say... MaxShot

After that, enter this nifty little bit: site:nerfhaven.com

So it would look like this in google: maxshot site:nerfhaven.com

That will search NH for the word maxshot using Google instead of the Invision Power Board search engine.

Make sure there are no spaces in the site:nerfhaven.com section or it won't work right.

As an added bonus, the Google search isn't case sensitive like the NH one is.


Stefans - The Hc Way

12 February 2009 - 09:38 AM

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Begin with a holder, I like a piece of wood with 1/2" holes drilled in it, other people like 1/2-3/4" pieces of PETG, it depends on what you prefer. This particular one holds 200 blanks.

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Filling 200 holes with blanks takes a while, I suggest watching TV or something while you do it. It's a mindless activity.

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This is the trick that I discovered a little while back. A cheap little Weller soldering iron will make a hole that's just about perfectly sized for a Copperhead BB. You just have to be careful not to keep it in the foam too long or it will melt everything around it and make a larger hole.

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For Single BB darts, a quick dip about 1/4" in will work perfectly. For Type D you need to go about 1/2" as quickly as possible to avoid overmelt, and for type S you need to go in about 3/8" and hold for a second so a larger diameter is created.

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Once the holes are made, insert your chosen weight. Notice the difference in the hole size from the top row to the bottom row.

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Then you fill in with hot glue and you're all done. Top row is Single BB, Second is Type D, Third is Type S.

You just have to be careful not to let the hot glue gun sit for too long or it'll get so hot that it'll melt right through the dart. You want the glue to be only semi-liquid, not running like water.

So there you have it, that's how I do my stefans that I both use and sell. Hope you enjoyed.

Longshot Plunger Head Replacement - Updated

10 February 2009 - 02:06 PM

This is CaptainSlug's design, but a formal writeup was never posted, so I'm posting it.

All the design is his work, the pictures are mine. Credit goes to Slug.

Parts Needed:

1- 1 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID 1/16" Thick Rubber Washer
1 - 90126A509 - Zinc-Plated Steel SAE Flat Washer #6 Size, 5/32" Id, 3/8" Od, .036" Min Thickness = $0.97 per 100
2 - 91090A104 - Zinc-Plated Steel Large-Od Flat Washer 10 Screw Size, 7/32" Id, 1-1/4" Od, .042"-.052" Thk = $7.41 per 100

McMaster does NOT carry the correct rubber washer for this modification, but the steel washers they have are perfect. The rubber washers can be purchased from Lowes or Home Despot or any other hardware store that carries such things.

From Ace Hardware:

1 - Rubber Washer, 1 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID, 1/16" Thick [Ace #RM1214]=$.85 each.
2 - Flat Washer #6 Size, 5/32" ID, 3/8" OD [Ace #546563]=$.09 each.
2 - Flat Washer, 1/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD [Ace #546608]=$.29 each.

The last washer ID is 1/4" instead of 7/32", but it works fine.

To clarify, that goes Small Metal, Large Metal, Rubber, Large Metal, Small Metal. That provides some extra backstopping on the plunger for those of you too lazy to do the CPVC mod below.

Thanks Sputnik!

Begin with a longshot plunger tube.

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Remove the two silver screws from the back

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Pull the plunger head and rod out of the tube and take out the front silver screw

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Detach and set aside the stock plunger head, keep the screw

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These are the materials used, including the stock screw

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Cut a 1/4" piece of 1/2" CPVC and place it on top of the stock plunger rod. It should be a perfect fit, OD to OD. Then fill in the gap between the stock attachment point and the CPVC with hot glue.

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Overfill the top a little to provide some back-pressure on the plunger head.

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Arrange the materials as pictured, metal, rubber, metal, metal

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Center the rubber washer on the metal washers for an even seal

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Attach the plunger head to the stock plunger rod using the stock screw

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View from the side

Re-insert the plunger head into the tube, it will be difficult because the washer needs to bend to fit into the tube, it will fit though and will provide you with a perfect seal for your longshot.

You WILL need an additional spring, or a more powerful one. A cut down AR-15 or a BBB or a MaxShot spring are all valid options. I personally prefer a LS+AR-15 spring combo.