Jyang

I think it's fine for now, assuming that you've done a decent rewire (i.e. using silicon 18AWG wire, replaced switches, heatshrink, no flailing loose ends, connector is rated) and that the battery is specced well.

Chances are the stock motors with their metal brushes will burn out after some time (in like a year, maybe?), but that's no big deal, replacing those is usually reasonably affordable.

Just to be sure though, what battery is that? Do you perhaps have a more accurate part number/name? I'm guessing it's nickel, which should be fine, but there's always the fear that you're using an underspecced lipo (in terms of current draw), which can cause problems.

Could you take a picture down the barrel? Might help with better troubleshooting.

While elite darts are pretty bad, I don't recall having that many whirlybirds when using them. I suspect that the wheels may be misaligned (too far down the shaft, not far down enough, not equally far down the shaft).

For clarification, I assume you refer to

Original:

http://www.lightake....te_2329306.html

Vertical:

http://www.lightake....ck_2271479.html

Diagonal:

http://www.lightake....ck_2274372.html

The black ones are higher crush flywheels, looking at the product dimensions. Do note though, while they advertise as adding 1mm of crush, it's really only like 0.7-0.8mm, which isn't a huge difference, but it's worth noting.

The vertical vs diagonal I'm not sure about, but generally grooves are considered bad for performance long term since they inhibit foam buildup. In this case it looks like the diagonal toothed ones have less severe grooving, so I'd recommend those from an analytical perspective, but there's not much empirical data to back that up IIRC.

Documentation is really thorough, which I always appreciate very much in this hobby.

The idea of having a tool for centering is really clever, I definitely struggled with that the last time I attempted to print flywheels (ultimately a failure on my part).

Want to ask, though, have you considered using the following geometry (left being current openwheel, right being the alternative) to improve the top surface finish? I would've considered tested it out on my own, but I figured it'd likely be something you've already considered.

https://imgur.com/a/73CpTQK

I've brought up the topic with you previously, but with the noise that they're currently producing, would you be happy with running the wheels as they are on a long-term basis, or is it still too loud?

 

http://www.wentec.co...ower_torque.asp

 

Well, I suppose building the gearbox out of gears isn't that tough. You'd need perhaps 2 pairs of gears, at half and 6 cm or 1 and 12 cm (since the square root of 150 is 12ish, that's the size ratio we want to be fine with just 2 pairs), link one pair on an axle and the other 2 on independent axles. Then, I guess the springer-pusher gear gets attached to the big 'outer' gear while the motor goes on the small one. Might get slightly bulky, but who cares?

I'm personally not familiar with the actual implementation of building gearboxes, but if it's something you're comfortable with doing, by all means!

I don't think there is much documentation on gear manufacture within the hobby (that I know of), so I think it'd be an excellent content addition, regardless of how well/janky/clean it ends up being.