Remzak

The Nerf Rapidstrike has a fantastic guide that can be found here: http://torukmakto4.b...ated-guide.html     The Brute is much simpler, but in my opinion it still deserves a guide to address several key parts of the mod. 
 
Materials:
 
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Option A (Using IMR's):
Soldering iron 
Solder
2 Micro-switches (I used these:
http://www.amazon.co...ds=microswitch)
Hobby knife or drill with 3/8" bit
Superglue
 
Option B (Using LiPo)(Preferred):
All Option A materials
Battery connector
2 Cell LiPo (I use a 100mah pack)
Heatshrink
 
The blaster runs on 4 AA batteries, so using IMR's is actually as simple as installing them like normal AA batteries. There are NO LOCKS either electronic or mechanical in the brute. I recommend following my switch replacement however, it will add performance and reliability. Opening the brute is a pain. I recommend removing all the screws, then using a flat head screwdriver as a pry bar. Be careful and go slow, but because the plastic is flexible you should be able to open the blaster without damaging anything. Remove the stock first, then the blue piece on the handle, and then the blaster should open freely.
 
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These are the internals, the wire gauge is acceptable, but definitely only for the stock motors. If you replace the motors definitely replace the wire. As I stated earlier there are no locks in the blaster and you don't actually need to add any wire to the blaster.
 
Overview:
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Flywheel Closeup:
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Stock and battery door pieces:
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Mag release picture to help with reassembly.
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The brute has a dart guide, which is a nice feature for reliability, especially with no jam door on the blaster.
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The flywheels are horrible. Look at the holes, or lack thereof. Buzzbee tried to add lightening holes, but ruined the balance of the flywheels. That's why you have the drill and/or hobby knife. Fix the holes so the wheels are symmetrical.
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I used a drill with a 3/8" bit at low rpm.
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The motors have no thermistors or resistors.
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The pusher motor has none either.
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The stock switches need to go. They are simply two flexible metal tabs, which have high resistance and poor reliability. 
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Desolder them from the circuit and unscrew their mounting point.
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The switches need to be replaced with a microswitch. The ones I used are in the materials list at the top. Remove the roller if your switch has one and tin the tabs.
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Solder your new switches onto the stock leads, then mount them with superglue. It is very important that you mount the switches in a way in which the switch is moved to the on position when the trigger is pulled, but also in a way in which it does not impede the trigger movement. The way to do this will vary from switch to switch but always test fit the switches before you glue them in. Test your circuit and make sure everything is functional.
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Now that the switches are squared away you need to solder the battery leads. If you are using IMR's then just remove the two yellow components (PTCs) and resolver the wires. I recommend using two IMR cells. If you are using a battery pack you need to remove the stock battery tray to fit your pack.
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Desolder the wires and cut them to an even length.
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Solder on the connector of your choice with heatshrink to insulate the contacts. 
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Reassemble the blaster and you are done!
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Three cells will burn darts, cause major slippage, and decrease range. Use a maximum of 9 volts.

Assuming all went well your brute should be shooting 90-100 fps. The motors that come with the brute are pretty good, the flywheels however are not. Aftermarket flywheels are certainly an option, but spacing will become an issue. If you are trying to be extremely game effective go buy a Stryfe or Rapidstrike, they can achieve much higher velocities than the brute is capable of. Rev times with a LiPo should be lightning fast and the fire rate will have much more get up and go.

I had some brushless motors lying around so I decided to make my stryfe run on three phase AC. The motors I used are DYS 1806 2300 kv motors, which have a 2mm shaft and can run on 2-4S lipos. I also set them up with one 30 amp speed control, and an arduino using a potentiometer to control motor speed. The velocity on a 3S lipo exceeds 100 feet per second and the motors run almost silently. I will have more updates as the project moves on, but I have only completed preliminary velocity tests on 3 cells. I still need to figure out a way to house the arduino.
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The test circuit for the electronics
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Arduino pin outs
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I am running two motors with one ESC
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The code, just converting the potentiometer value into a PWM signal
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A picture of the homemade flywheel cage installation
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Close up of the motor mount I made from aluminum sheet
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Last picture before I closed it

I build model planes as a hobby, and to launch glider I use silicon tubing. The silicon tubing is cheap, stretches well, and has a high draw weight when pre-extended. This is in my opinion a superior alternative to bungees, and a cheap alternative to latex tubing. It comes in two sizes, 6mm and 8mm and cost either 4$ or 7$ for 10 METERS. Need I say more?
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6mm tubing:
http://www.hobbyking...Start_Cord.html

8mm tubing
http://www.hobbyking...Start_Cord.html

I have only tried the 6mm tubing, but next time I place a Hobbyking order I will definitely buy some 8mm tubing. I conducted a few tests to gauge the properties of the 6mm tubing.

Stretch Distance:
I cut a 6 inch piece, and clamped an inch, leaving the stretchable length to 5 inches. I then stretched it to it's limit, which was as advertised, 30 inches. It stretches at a 6:1 ratio! The pre-extension capabilities because of this ratio are fantastic. See pictures below.
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I was unable to stretch it to 30 and take a picture at the same time, but I do in the video.

Stretch Weight:
This was a much less scientific test. I took the same 6 inch piece, clamped an inch, and put it through the center of a ten pound weight. It still had a little bit of stretch left in it. Super scientific. See photo.
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Practical test:
Next I decided to overpower my beater Snapbow. It has performed very well with three lengths stretched to 4.5 times their original length. It had an easy, smooth prime, and was still penetrating cardboard with stock darts out of a four dart RSCB. I put on two more lengths, stretched to a full 5.5 times their original length. The prime was almost impossible, but as you will see in the video the power was insane. It shot invisibly fast out of an empty RSCB with stock darts. See video. After 5 shots however, I managed to break my catch. (EDIT: I managed to strip the plunger head wing nut) With pre-extension it is easy to get lots of power.

Conclusion:
Watch the video to see for yourself, but in my opinion HKTS is a fantastic alternative to standard latex tubing, both in price and power, especially the former. I will order some 8mm tonight, I expect it to have about twice the power of the 6mm tubing.

I have recently become obsessed with modding Nerf guns and was wondering if there was anyone in Massachusetts. (preferably within a half hour of Boston)