apocalypticamerica

Okay, so after my full rewire, motor/switch swap, etc, I go to fit this 3s 1000mAh Zippy Compact, which is supposed to fit in the battery tray. But no matter how much I've dremeled, there is just no way the battery door is going to close.

It fits this way


But not this way



Is this maybe just a slight abnormality in the size of the battery pack?

Honestly, I always liked the Recon stock. But as we all know, one of it's big downfalls is how flimsy it feels. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised when I went to search for reinforcement write ups- most people just don't like it enough to spend the time! Well, I set out to reinforce mine, and while I didn't feel the need to write it up in great detail, I thought it might be nice to at least document the way I did it. This skips some basic steps but this is a pretty easy project.

Materials:
-phillips head screwdriver
-awl
-hammer (not required, but will make it a little easier)
-epoxy putty
-1/2" brass tubing, about 1 1/2' of length
-file/sandpaper

I already had everything except the brass, so total cost to me was about $4.00

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Firstly, take out all the screws to open 'er up. Then you're going to have to punch out the two pins on the connecting part of the stock. This is where you need the awl.


Instead of replacing the supports with the brass, I measured all the points and cut it to fit over the existing supports. So this nub needs to be sanded so our brass can slide over. Just a little bit.


Once you've measured and cut your brass, mix your epoxy putty, and use just enough to coat the plastic supports so that the brass slides over snugly. But excess can obviously just be wiped off. Unfortunately, I was by myself here and didn't take pictures because I was wearing gloves to work with the epoxy. But the other important step here was to pack the joints with the putty, so that there's no flex where the brass meets plastic in the middle and at both ends.

So here it is sanded and ready for paint


And... with the first coat of paint.


Total time (not including time for epoxy to cure 24 hrs) this only took me about 2 hrs. I wasn't super picky about sanding at the end before painting, so it's not super clean, but if you wanted to, it wouldn't take much longer. The stock has a much nicer weight though, and no flex whatsoever.

Hi, I've been searching for a thread on this, but I can't seem to find much detail on this topic anywhere. I've been eyeing a lot of really good looking paint jobs with nicely detailed logos, and I'm wondering how people get them looking so sharp. I've seen some great guides on painting in general, and some assorted specifics, but nothing about logo/hand detailing in particular. Can anyone point me in the right direction?