Quack

This setup should be perfectly fine. I usually use these switches. They've worked for way more demanding circumstances than yours, and they are pretty compact. I watch Out of Darts' channel sometime too, but I wouldn't buy marked up batteries from him on Etsy. Here's the same battery but cheaper from hobby king. Just in case you're buying your Meishel motors from him as well. Here they are for a lower price at containment crew. The OFP cages on his Etsy seem to be the going price so that's probably fine. Your battery should be able to provide more than enough current for these motors.

I should have put this in my reply above. But Is the diagram above more or less how it would look wired up? And is it safe for these kinds of batteries?

 Yeah that diagram looks fine. But if you're really going through this much trouble with an imr setup you might as well just get a lipo and buy and extended tray for like $5.00. cutting the little fins out of the battery tray to fit a lipo isn't really that hard. I think it's a cool idea but it just seems impractical.

The issue is that all we do is redirect the problem. Watts=Volts*Amps and so instead of choosing a bigger 3 Cell battery that could handle the amperage you recommend picking a bigger six cell battery that diverts the problem. Minimizing amperage is definitely benificial, but seems unnecessary and impractical for our use.

I see what you're saying and I get that it really only redirects the problem, but I think I'm going to try it on my latest build more out of necessity than convenience. I designed and 3d printed my own 2 stage cage for the stryfe and put hellcats as the first stage and wolverines as the second (all on a 3s). When I first tested it in a completely parallel setup I melted the inside of my high amp switch. I originally estimated that the wolverines would draw 30 to 40 amps at 3s but when I finally found a data sheet I saw that they draw 70 amps each. All totaled my setup draws 184 amps which is way more than any switch small enough for the blaster could handle. I just ordered the 6s I linked in my first post and will do a write up if it works. Obviously I would avoid this setup in the future, but I don't want to just abandon this project.

I feel like the second one is showing motors in series, sets in parallel - both pairs of motors have wires leading to/from home, but the motors themselves only have 1 path. Your idea seems sound in my not-an-engineer head; just need to make sure the diagram is correct.

Yeah the diagrams are correct. Or at least they are what I intended. The two stages are in parallel while the motors within each stage are in series.

So, you're saying since I just bought a Rapidstrike that I'm going to turn into a rapidpistol with 16 AWG, 3 switches and a LS2 with no electrical/dremel/modding/painting knowledge to my name is a bad choice..

 

Gonna do it anyway. Might turn out good, might turn out bad. Either way I'll have fun (hope I dont blow myself up).

From experience I know rewiring rapidstrikes with 16AWG can be a pain if your soldering isn't too good. It can be done, but is difficult for a beginner since the blaster was designed for much thinner wire. I would practice first on something like a stryfe which has the potential to be arguably better than a rapidpistol. If you want to go for it though, good luck. My first real mod was a rapidstrike/rayven integration with full rewire. It took a really long time but ended up working fine.