meishel

This allows the end user to decide what level of infill they want on their print. Each section of the shell is no longer than 9 inches, making it compatible with the majority of the entry-level machines.

 

I could be wrong, but I believe the most common bed size is 200x200mm which is just under 8 inches squared.    Also, there's MeshMixer as well as other applications that allow you to cut STL files into smaller pieces for printing.    Here's a tutorial on how to cut files with Meshmixer.

Edit:  I cut it in two pieces and threw it into my slicer for my larger printer.  Stats are with 20% infill and 3 outer walls as well as 3 top and 3 bottom walls.  My printer is about 5-10% slower than the slicer thinks it is, so it'd be a 15 hour print per side, and use a little more than 1/4 of a spool of filament.  I don't know what kind of spring loads it would handle, and my large printer is down at the moment.

 

 

Edit again:  Forget the previous numbers, forgot to add support material because the internal structure would need it, and I had my speed set way too high for reasonable quality.  Now it's like a 30 hour print because my printer is not very fast due to the huge bed causing more sway than typical printers. :\

I have no clue, but I did some digging, and I see some people have done some crazy mods to them without replacing that switch. I saw one person with a 33volt mod and they were using the stock switch. *shrug* If you're really worried about it, throw a beefier switch in there.

Stuck on the IMR setup for this blaster build because I also nerf with nephews. Easy to switch back to regular old AA. Also its been minimized making battery pack placement tricky. I will leave the wiring at resistor/lock removal and run two IMR. Thanks for all the info! Next build I will probably order the full 180 Rapid Pistol kit and new switches ect. As far as battery life goes, ill just have to bring spares unfortunately.

If you're worried about shooting too hard, you could buy a 1s LiPo as well, and then you're running at 3.7 volts which is similar to stock, but you'll have more current so spin up may be faster.

130 pros:
No shell cutting, which means easier to do, less tools required.
There are some decent options for less money than 180s.
With proper battery and re-wire, should be able get to or near the FPS ceiling for flywheels.
130 cons:
Gets hotter, mainly because they are smaller and get less air circulation because the shell is covering them.
Less torque.

180 Pros:
More torque.
Runs cooler due to having a larger shell to dissipate heat, and more than likely being exposed to outside air.
Blade motors are proven reliable.
180 Cons:
Shell modification required, Motor cover of some sort is highly recommended.
Cost is much more than many of the 130s on the market.
Can draw a LOT of current. IMRs not recommended. Many people use them on IMRs and say it's fine, but you're under utilizing them without a LiPo or NiMH pack with sufficient current.

Thanks for the writeup. Awesome info!

I would also recommend hobbyking. I found this http://www.hobbyking...idProduct=39496 Or as Lunas said, LiPo batteries as long as you read up on the safety/handling instructions for them. I have a little tiny LiPo battery in my stryfe, and it screams.

I did a quick google search and found multiple sites listing those motors and the voltage they require. http://www.powerslot...-Can-p/3005.htm

They run 40k RPM @ 12 volts, but will go faster with more voltage. I may be corrected on this, but I thought after 25k or 30k RPM, torque was more beneficial than more RPM.

I'm new here, but I'm not new to nerf. Here's what I have done as far as cosmetics:



The Maverick has dropout mod, AR removal, and a few pennies behind the spring.
The Stryfe has some RM2 motors, a 2s lipo in the jam door, and completely re-wired.



This is my current project. It's a Lanard First Shot. I re-barreled it with cpvc, improved the seal on the o-ring, and it shoots 70ft flat pretty easily with elites (I don't have any steffans, but hopefully that'll change soonish) It will be mostly silver, with neon green accents and tip to make it look like an alien blaster.

I've got a lot more on the way.