Matches

You would state the rule in the warpost, and then people would either willfully ignore it or completely fail to understand how far 60-80 feet actually is.

1. [Laughs] Yes, they probably would (as I said in my original post); however, there's this wonderful thing called punishment...

But seriously, if a host made it clear to everyone at the beginning of a war that there was a new rule every bit as important as all the other rules, and that it was important enough that he would have to punish anyone who broke it, it could conceivably work. I know it's not fun to make people sit out a round, or not use their favorite air gun for a round, or whatever, but it's not about winning popularity contests.

2. Surely it wouldn't be too hard to have a 60' distance marked before the war, and have everyone observe it?

This still doesn't do anything to cover the possibility that someone runs in front of the shooter shortly before the person shoots.

I didn't think of that, and I agree.

You could be right about the point of air guns, I never really understood it.

Sorry for not being clear. I should have said it like this: The way I see it, air guns aren't practical inside 50 or 60' range or so, because their RoF is usually too slow to compete with the high RoF springers that are only used at 50-60' range. But Beaver brought up the point that it's much easier to hit someone at close range with a fast-shooting air gun than it is with a low-power springer. That's definitely a disadvantage to my theory, I admit.

Perhaps a more reasonable way to restrict high-powered blasters without altogether banning them would be a minimum firing angle of 45 degrees.

Pardon the rude joke, but not if you want to hit anyone.

But seriously, you might want to try shooting while holding the gun at a 45° angle or higher. It's not exactly practical, even if you're trying to not have great accuracy. Furthermore, making sure people hold their air guns at that angle for every shot would be at least as difficult as enforcing my idea.


I should have emphasized the extreme theoretical-ness of this idea more. Again, I'm not saying I'm convinced it will work, I'm saying I'm not convinced it would be impossible. We really won't know until someone tries it. In my opinion, banning guns that are "too powerful" negates the purpose for innovation of farther-shooting guns. To me, innovation is the point of the hobby.

If I were to host a war, I would enforce a rule that would prevent people from firing any singled air gun--plugged OPV or not, 4B or not--at anyone within a certain number of feet, probably 60-80. And unless I'm hugely mistaken, that's the point of air guns: their RoF is almost always too low to be of any practical use inside 50 or 60 feet, given all the high RoF springers everyone loves--unless you retreat wildly after every shot. The problem with rules, though, is that many people are moronic and/or forgetful, thus rendering implementation difficult.

But in theory, if you could enforce such a rule, wouldn't your concerns about excessive pressure be resolved?

I suggest making a brass breech and shotgun foregrip, and reinforcing the boltsled and doing some basic mods. That will give you the best RoF and range, if you use customized darts.

You ought to be able to fix the endcap by epoxying a washer to each side of it. Ace (of course!) has one the perfect size. I don't know its actual part number but it's the thinner version of MSB-XH. My LS's endcap either broke like yours or it started cracking, and that's what I did to fix it. I also covered the extensions where the screw sockets in the endcap are with epoxy, sticking a very thin piece of rolled up paper into the actual socket so no epoxy would get in there.

The concept is still the same, but that was hardly a write-up, it's 6 years old, there was only one picture, and my results look better if you ask me. I'm not the first person to use this method of painting, lots of people one here have done it, but no one has gone in depth and explained how to do it.

Anima went as in depth as he could without providing superfluous information, with one exception. He didn't say how long to let the groundcoat cure before applying the paint. But the can (at least on Metalcast) tells when the groundcoat dries, after which time it is presumably safe to apply the paint. But other than that, what other information would anyone need? It seems to me that he covered everything. Again, I'm not trying to discourage you from writing a tutorial if that's what you're bent on doing.

Or maybe your method is different from Anima's?