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Member Since 28 Sep 2011
Offline Last Active Nov 24 2015 01:09 PM

Topics I've Started

3k Tank Issue

17 September 2013 - 07:34 AM

I have a 3k tank, whenever any sort of pressure is used though, the pin actually pulls out of the seal, and nothing useful happens. Are there any fixes for something like this?
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RF20 powered Vulcan

19 August 2013 - 12:09 AM

It has been more than a year in the making but I have finally finished my belt fed RF-20 blaster. Most of the actual construction process in undocumented (Because frankly it was primarily trial and error). I will, however be going over the general function of the blaster itself, and if anyone is interested, I can draw up some actual plans to build it (and will probably be doing so for a MKII design anyway)

First a (probably incomplete) list of things used:
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Shadow hawk shell
RF-20 (almost all of it)
Vulcan (the rotation mech, and associated shell pieces, and some other parts from other areas)
Zip ties (small and medium sized)
Random pieces of plastic/polycarb/whatever
Spare screws
Bell Airstrike 1000 pump, or whatever your pump of choice is (not pictured above)
Some nuts, bolts, and washers
Plastic welder (the epoxy stuff)
Tools, lots of them

First the shell:
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The shadow hawk shell is actually made of more rigid plastic than most Nerf brand blasters, it is also assembled in sections (each half is actually six pieces) this is both easier to work with because you donít have to deal with the whole thing at once, and a pain because a lot of material has to be removed from certain areas, and the thing still has to hold together, lots of screw ports will be omitted.
The only parts of the Vulcan shell needed are the barrel insert, and the area where the chain goes. You donít want the front wall, but the back one is very important for lining things up (more on that later)
the front part of the Shadow hawk shell gets lots of attention from the Dremel. Its original bore is around .25 inches, and the Vulcan barrel is a lot closer to 1.5 inches, so go crazy, but make sure it is straight. To accommodate your hand pump of choice, just cut the existing pump grip slide out (I left a part of the stop from the original grip on for aesthetic purposes.)
For the middle part of the shell, all you have to do is cut a section out of the shell wide enough to fit the part of the shell from the Vulcan. When epoxying this in place however, it is crucial that it is centered as perfectly as possible (I mechanically fastened it with zip ties and then used the epoxy, just to be sure). I attached pieces from the front of the Vulcan for structural reasons (also because I thought that they looked cool)
The rear section is relatively simple, some holes need to be drilled for air lines, and the space around where the RF-20 piston needs to move needs to be cleared up (you will probably have to go back and clear some more out later, I had to go back in there three or four times due to the piston rubbing on things and wasting energy

Next for the piston and related parts (pretty much everything but the rotation mechanism)
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This is also around the point where documentation and specific dimensions is almost nonexistent (not that there has been much of it up to this point) so I apologize for that
The piston is secured to the rearmost part of the Shadow hawk shell (as it turns out it is the same thickness as the gap in the mount on the back of the piston)
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when supplied with air (using the stock RF20 trigger valve)
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It moves forward until it meets up with and then pushes the part that seals against the Vulcan chain. The front RF20 seal has been super glued to the back of it, and part of the Vulcan plunger tube has been used to prevent the return spring from pulling the whole assembly out (another part of the plunger tube has been used as a guide)
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And now for the rotation mech:
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First off the stock mech in the Vulcan was actually broken in the one I found at the thrift store and the RF20 is a push-type rotation mechanism whereas the Vulcan is a pull-type. Anyone who has used a maverick will tell you how unreliable it is when the firing chamber advances at the same time as firing, so I had to start completely from scratch. The other important thing here is the location of the part that actually does the pulling, it has to be on the side in the same place as the Vulcan otherwise the rest state of the Vulcan belt wonít be lined up with the barrel and piston (and it wonít fire). Since this is the only part being attached to the Shadow hawk shell, I just made fine adjustments on the angle with zip ties so the belt sat in the correct place.
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To get the spacing right between the rotation mech tab on the piston (which needs to be trimmed a bit to allow for full travel) and where the puller arm is just used a bolt, some washers and some nuts. That way it can be finely tuned and adjusted, when you get it right, use some blue or red Loctite on the threads to prevent the nuts from moving.
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The other important part of the rotation mech is the chain tensioner (that little spring loaded piece in the big orange part that goes over the Vulcan chain) I just screwed a bolt and washer down through the center piece, a small amount also needs to be trimmed from the sides of the spring retaining circle just so that it fits in the Shadow hawk shell and can travel up and down freely. This part is important because it keeps pressure on the top of the chain so that it only moves when the rotation mech pulls on it (or when you are pulling it through)
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I probably missed some stuff (as I have said before documentation wasnít very good) if you have any questions, ask me. And if you want plans, PM me and Iíll get them to you when they exist.
Also I canít get a firing video as of right now (or rather, I can, but you would only get a few shots before it stopped) the piston needs a higher pressure than the stock RF20 due to the fact that it is doing more things.
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LS Priming Solution

18 December 2012 - 09:19 PM

I recently (finally) bought a Longshot, and after doing some basic mods (mainly just lock removal at this point) I noticed that it is impossible to prime it using the handle on right side you have to use both, or the one left side. I talked to a couple people who also had Longshots, and they said it was a normal thing.

I found a solution:
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If you remove the boltsled lock, just cut the tail off of the boltsled. It isn't actually needed anymore

(I assume that this has been done before, but I didnt see it mentioned specifically in any of the Longshot posts)

Buzz Bee Cougar

27 October 2012 - 06:41 PM

With the Panthers/Range Masters out everyone seems to be ignoring all of the other Buzz Bee products (or more likely they were already doing that)
Here is a new blaster that isn't actually bad when you compare it to the Nerf equivalent: the Maverick
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As the darts fire, the clip comes out the top of the blaster

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It holds 10 shots compared to the Maverick's 6
It come with a clip unlike the Maverick (but, like the Maverick the clip/modified clip is specific to this blaster)

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the air restrictors in the clip are very easy to remove. It took not even 5 minutes to go through the back with a pin punch and punch them out.

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It is a direct plunger blaster, primed by pulling the yellow stock shaped thing back

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the actual plunger volume is considerably bigger than the maverick (using no maths or science at all I would guesstimate it to be about double)
the plunger rod actually has a 100% seal stock
note the foam on the front of the PT, it creates a moderately ok seal between the PT and the clip

ranges are similar to a Nitefinder (about 60 feet)

Yes, I was dry firing, I live on the 7th floor, and my darts are in my car.
The video is also HEREif the above isn't working

So, in all, for $10 bucks, it is a much better alternative to the Maverick


24 September 2012 - 12:02 AM

Where: 252 east longmeadow road ; east longmeadow (residential)
When: Saturday October 27th, 12:00-5:00
(Map to be posted soon)

-Free for all
-Red vs Blue
-Plant the bomb
-What ever the nerf else we want to play.

Come the the 4th North Eastern Nerf Outing!
Finnaly a war more centered in the state! Covenantally located in longmeadow Massachusetts!
Bring your Blasters!
Bring your game!
Most importantly bring your nostalgia and prepared to have it tickled!

Also, there will be a raffle, if you want to participate, just bring something to put into the pot. If you bring something, you will leave with something. (Please don't use this as an excuse to get rid of a crappy blaster, see "douchebag rule" below)

Rules as set by Kidame Tomanaka.:
-No douchebagary. (I take this seriously)
-No banned Blasters (unless it is simply for show)
-All Blasters must be presented and tested for power and pain. (if you wouldn't want to get shot with it, don't bring it)
-Melee is fine. (only foam swords or foam crafted weapons, again to be tested by me)
-Darts, and plenty of then, if you need to borrow any, message those who are attending to see if you can either buy or can be loaned darts for the day.
-BYOB (bring your own Blasters for trading and war time)
-No douchebagery (I'm just making this clear to those who read it)
-Slugs (because that's what we seem to have a fetish for)
-No death darts (seriously. I see it. You're gone)
-Keep your sailor mouth to a bare minimum (this is my friends field,though we can essentially be as loud as we care to be)

My rules may be long. But I will enforce them. And will make those leave if they wish not to comply.

Trading will happen as soon as everyone arrives, so please be on time, afterward we will have warm up rounds of 3:10 just to shake the jitters, and get pumped!

Kidame Tomanaka (host)
zx532 (co-host)
Popatachi (maybe)
tinoraxen (maybe)
Random kid we met at TRU (maybe)
Any information that anyone needs simply PM Kidame Tomanaka or me (you will probably have better luck with me though) and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.