265 replies to this topic

[GeneralPrimevil]

Ever consider making your own tooling? Err...it's only for plastics anyway, so why not?

[CaptainSlug]

Ever consider making your own tooling? Err...it's only for plastics anyway, so why not?

The ID is a little too small for a custom boring rod being any easier than just using a drill bit.
The drill bit isn't THAT expensive ($26). I just have compounding problems of not having the health or time to work on everything I want to right now.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 11 June 2006 - 08:29 PM.

[footemps]

Sweet concept you're working on.

I don't really have any on topic contribution but keep up the good work.

(are you captain slug for bit-tech.net?)

[CaptainSlug]

(are you captain slug for bit-tech.net?)

Yep. My computer-related projects are delaying my nerf-related projects.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 20 June 2006 - 06:35 AM.

[footemps]

(are you captain slug for bit-tech.net?)

Yep. My computer-related projects are delaying my nerf-related projects.

Finish Mk6 modular first jeez! And finish your waterblock for procooling too!

lol, sorry, I just found it interesting that we're both on bit-tech, procooling and nerfhaven.

[taz22]

hey captain slug.

how is the progres?
i like the idee. hope it will turn out very good and cool.

[CaptainSlug]

This is keeping me busy

I'll get back to Nerf in a month or two when I'll have more resources, time, and money.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 28 June 2006 - 08:12 PM.

[z80]

OOOOOhhh, purty metal! Looks nice, I'm into computers myself, but obviously not as good as you.

[LastManAlive]

What mother board is on there and what do you ahve on the mother board? I can't see for the metal casing bars.

[CaptainSlug]

What mother board is on there and what do you ahve on the mother board? I can't see for the metal casing bars.

There's several dozen more images in the forum thread: http://www.ocforums....ad.php?t=394139
It's an Aopen NCK804Ua-LFS. Rock solid and gorgeous motherboard.
It's covered by two decorative covers that will also help me hide some wires I have yet to add for lighting and possibly a temperature probe.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 30 June 2006 - 07:07 AM.

[Metal Nerf Solid]

Back to your C.S.h.G design, how do you compensate for the softenss of the foam darts? In other words, what guarantees that the light foam will fall into the rotating chamber? Boltsniper and others solved this by using a rigid shell to hold the foam, but this idea then requires a shell ejection system somehow. I hope that this criticism only helps your project along rather than hinder it.

[taz22]

it is fed by a hoppper on the top as you can see in the picture.
on guns with a clip under the barel you need a spring to push the darts up.
but it is very hard to find the right spring because they must push them up, but they may not compress them.
thats why they use shels.

if you use a top fed hopper design, they won't compress so you don't need them.
the weight of the darts will be enaugh to push them down in the gun.

hope this was enaugh.

greats

[CaptainSlug]

^ that and the darts don't "fall" they are pulled into the chamber by the teeth and then a ramp forces them into the chamber.


I abandoned the idea of using shells because I don't have a spring-feed system where dart compression would be an issue. The darts roll in the hopper towards the inlet thanks to gravity

Edited by CaptainSlug, 30 June 2006 - 03:07 PM.

[footemps]

gravity will probably reduce your firing rate if you don't have some sort positive feed system. Just look at paintball markers. Most gravity fed systems max out at something like 8 balls a second, while agitated reach low to mid teens and positive feed reaching up in the twenties and thirties.

edit: also might as well point this out. Half feeds and misfeeds might result in "chops" like in paintball or maybe just jams since the velocity won't be insane. A positive feed system would help reduce that too.

edit 2: I'd say that a friction feeding system would be the best idea. Maybe just a rubberized drum that lines up darts and pushes them into the feeding position. You could also power it off the motor if you get clever with it.

Edited by footemps, 03 July 2006 - 08:39 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

I don't think any of those solutions would be very reliable with foam, and it's moot considering my firing rate isn't going to be very high since I'm only working towards 1 or 2 darts fired a second.

[davidbowie]

On top of that, paintball hoppers tend to be funnel-shaped for more ammo capacity, which slows them down a lot. With a straight hopper, things go much faster.

[pat 1st Lt]

I don't think that the ROF is going to be so high that you would need an agitated feed system. It's not like the ROF is going to get any higher than 4 or 5 at the MAX for this system's effectivness. Also, as DB said, PB hoppers are almost always a funnel shape, which naturally lead to slower feed rates. A cylinder or a box allows things to fall faster than a funnel allows them.


Some type of follower in the hopper wouldn't be a bad idea, but I'm pretty confident that it would work well without it.




Sincereley,
Pat

[CaptainSlug]

Okay, well this project was delayed by another that was more critical. But in doing so I have been able to formulate a more detailed plan for the remaining parts of this gun. In the next few weeks I'm going to refine the CAD model to a complete form to implement the new mechanisms I've come up with and hopefully sometime soon I can start machining those parts.
Assuming of course that my body will cooperate. Which it hasn't for the past two months.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 09 September 2006 - 12:39 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

Just a basic work up of the remaining parts that need to be made.

This is the shoe and slide mechanism that will slide the breech open and closed. The "shoe" is the green part that will bolt onto the arm extending off of the breech/barrel. Each shoe will have a wheel on top of it so that the helical track will push the shoe forward or back.
The yellow rods (1/4" aluminum) act as a guiding rail system.
The same mechanism will be used for the plungers as well.
And with all of the above figure out I have a much clearer image of what is left for me to do to make this gun operational.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 12 September 2006 - 01:38 PM.

[mav3r1c]

That thing looks beastly, if i had the skills to make it, I most definatly would.

[elf avec gun]

Do you have a very effective way to clear jams? If not that might be a major hinderance to the guns preformance

[CaptainSlug]

Do you have a very effective way to clear jams? If not that might be a major hinderance to the guns preformance

This was a concern very early on and I left three ways of clearing jams that won't require complete disassembly of the gun.
1) The dart ramps which you can see sticking out of the left side of the gun in the above image and be removed from the gun to allow easy access to clear jams if they occur.
2) The forward breech track will be slide mounted so that you can move it out of the way, allowing you to manipulate the breech actuation by hand.
3) The dart hopper will be bolted into place, but can easily be removed completely from the gun by undoing the two screws that attach it to the upper frame spine. This gives you an even larger jam clearing window.

If you do all three you've removed all of the moving parts that could possibly cause a jam. And if I simply use thumbscrews to hold those parts in place it can all be done without needing any tools. I don't think jams will occur if the design of the hopper is such that the darts can only enter in the correct orientation.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 13 September 2006 - 12:28 AM.

[General Cole]

I would suggest some sort of plexiglass sheet that would sit over the darts and provide pure downward force. I know my darts have the tendancy to stand up even when just lying on a flat surface.

[wst50]

So there I was, thinking I would be the first to make a Nerf Minigun, and CS beats me to it. To give him his due, I was going to begin in a few months... not a few months ago.

Good luck with it, I'll probably d/l the CAD drawings and get my school to install Alibre on their CAD/CAM machines...


And, don't shoot near windows with it. If the trigger got stuck on you'd be much poorer... stefans are expensive

[elf avec gun]

... stefans are expensive

Since when were stefans expensive?