#1126
Posted 15 August 2013 - 01:03 AM
Pumpbows/plusbows numbers 4, 5, and 6 out of 16.
The two pumpbows pictured are going to my aluminum supplier. One needs two holes to be countersinked, because I seem to have lost my countersink. Korned is receiving the plusbow once I make a priming handle for it.
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#1127
Posted 15 August 2013 - 03:22 PM
Red dot sight level: Amazing.
The gun itself is... a mutant. I made something that functions near identical to what Langely uses, save that it has a rainbow catch. It has a full 7 inches of draw.
I was very surprised at how well the RDS worked for aiming. I didn't expect it to do much but look cool, but it does help. I was able to shoot a telephone pole from about ninety feet away on my second shot. Might of been luck, might of been how awesome it is. The rail has it's own slot, so the sight stays still while the thinwall slides.
#1130
Posted 18 August 2013 - 11:55 PM
#1132
Posted 21 August 2013 - 12:43 AM
The other side.
I still need to range test, but this thing goes through cardboard (not the nerf kind). And the only dull color on this is the epoxy putty. I'll change that though.
Edited by Defender 7, 21 August 2013 - 12:45 AM.
#1136
Posted 25 August 2013 - 10:52 PM
Mine's bigger.
Dulcinea:
Nearly 5 feet long with the barrel, Dulcinea is a modified Quixote design. The primary difference is that the spring is between the plunger head and a spring rest (3/4 endcap with a 5/8 hole) screwed into the plunger tube just forward of the slot. It currently has a k26 in it, but the spring relocation should allow for other larger OD springs, such as a screen door closer spring, making this a blaster that can be made entirely out of store-bought items. The stock can be shortened (although I don't think you would want to) and the grip and priming handle are in about the same place as they would be on a smaller blaster, there's just a whole lot of plunger tube in front of all that. It's basically like a pull-back snap with the handle behind the stock, and then another stock behind that.
You can poop in my toilet anytime champ.
2016 Nerf War Schedule
Bless you, my son. Now recite 3 New Members Guides and 5 Code of Conducts for your sins.
#1137
Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:45 PM
Hex-head screws FTW. Since I am not Boltsniper, I used an ~2" screw (you can see the edge of its head on near the bottom-front of the blaster) and a zip tie to hold the bottom receiver to the plunger tube, instead of his magical glued-on PVC tabs.
I think I traced a classic TTG or Maveric handle onto some cheap 1x4 and cut it with a drill & coping saw, then filed it down; it's reasonably comfortable but could be thicker.
Sorry about the questionable image quality; it just barely shows the bolt holding the angle bracket/trigger and the head of the single screw holding the grip on (which is augmented by copious amounts of gorilla glue). Blurred is my use of some kind of walmart wire as a trigger pin, since I had no roofing nails.
Red circle shows the pin in place. This particular setup doesn't require a ton of pin shape adjustment, but getting the length to work was tricky. Mostly because a clothes pin can only open so far, and the pin needs to be long enough that it'll still catch - had I used a nail this would have been easier since bending the wire changes the length. I think I was using this sans slot at first, with my main problem being that the hole was too far forward. If you don't want to use a slot you can probably get away without it.
Edited by Meaker VI, 28 August 2013 - 04:56 PM.
#1139
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:37 PM
The blaster is essentially a 3k tank firing through a rearloading DTB turret with 12" barrels. Pump is from a magstrike I think. The body is snapish. Wooden handle wrapped in red gasket rubber and then grip tape.
The spacer was laser printed out of acrylic like 3 years ago way back when I had access to my high school's cool toys.
There's a notch cut to keep the 3k valve firmly pressed against the turret. The valve is simply hotglued/e-taped on, which works because it only needs to be held in place. The notch takes all the stress.
The marks on the back of the turret are to help align it properly. The spring in the rotation mech is partly being used to press the turret against the rubber seal, so the teeth don't seat all the way. In other words it doesn't always align optimally.
The trigger is a modified recon trigger affixed to some green piping that slides over 1.5" PVC. The spring between it and the handle is less to provide tension and more to keep the trigger from wobbling out of place.
Tubing from the valve enters here...
...And exits here to the pump. The tubing is sheathed in polyester piping to keep the pump sturdy.
Edited by TantumBull, 28 August 2013 - 09:40 PM.
#1140
Posted 30 August 2013 - 03:40 PM
These are already sold, so please don't ask if they're for sale. I have a couple other projects I'm working on right now, mainly for darts, but I will have these for sale within the next month.
#1142
Posted 15 September 2013 - 07:06 PM
- Replace the plunger tube with opaque PVC (clear PVC cracks easily)
- Fine tune the trigger. It actually catches now.
- Re-attached the handle with epoxy putty instead of hot glue an zip ties
- Filled unnecessary holes in the plunger tube and bushings.
- Made a new spacer to attach the priming handle to the plunger tube. The original was 1/2" long and the new one is 2.5" long.
Pictured with the other blasters I've fixed that once belonged to Zorn.
I also finished up a new bullpup blaster that is a spring powered version of Kane's BullPACs; It is the same size and has a better name "BullShit".
Here it is with it's predecessor the "BullCrap"
22:47- Zorn :BONUS
#1143
#1144
Posted 30 September 2013 - 09:57 PM
Full Album Here
Edited by roboman, 30 September 2013 - 10:15 PM.
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LS and Retaliator boltsleds are currently available at https://www.facebook.com/RoboM8/
#1145
Posted 10 October 2013 - 04:20 PM
Write-up coming soon (hopefully). Name Pending.
#1146
Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:01 PM
Fairly certain I haven't posted this before. Tornadobow priming handle for ACNerfshop from a commission in early July. I don't really intend to make any more of these, other than for the two tornadobows that I'm building for Korned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3QpOjrN_TA
Found some video on my phone of the machining process (second operation) and threw it on Youtube earlier today.
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LS and Retaliator boltsleds are currently available at https://www.facebook.com/RoboM8/
#1147
Posted 16 October 2013 - 06:50 PM
#1 is my personal, #2 is a commission. PM me if you want one!
~le yootoob
#1148
Posted 23 October 2013 - 11:56 AM
The writing on it is Japanese for sparrow bow.
Ranges are 75-80ft flat.
Edited by rokushoo, 23 October 2013 - 11:58 AM.
#1149
Posted 23 October 2013 - 06:24 PM
- 30" long, 12" aluminium barrel, carbon fiber bolt, fiberglass frame on a 40mm thin wall pipe, VERY hard +-7" spring (needs 3 to 1 leverage to prime);
- The barrel is "soft mounted" with just 3 screws (whole gun has 13 screws if I´m not mistaken!);
- It only has 2 o-rings. One is used as a bumper and the other was cut down and glued back together! I made it to not use o-rings...;
- Only Nerf parts are: magazine and darts (Elite), and the trigger lock of a retaliator that was modified to be used as a magazine lock;
- Shoots more than twice the distance of a retaliator with AR removed, and has not jammed once so far (about 80 shots);
- Since the picture, I have added a buttstock, countersunk those screws on the back, added a cap to that big headscrew on the lever, and added a steel bar to the lever itself (it would bend and break trying to compress the spring). I will, eventually, change the trigger and trigger connecting rod, and do some finishing on it (has not even been sanded).
#1150
Posted 24 October 2013 - 09:31 PM
New L+L design for a commission for Psyk.
The catch "block" is entirely 3D printed and makes up a majority of the blaster's structure, replacing all structural standoffs. The grip is a modified version of the design I used for the pumpbows, and is also 3D printed. All flat aluminum parts will either be waterjetted or CNC milled and subsequently sandblasted for a satin finish. The sideplates, catch plate, and catch cover plate are laser cut UHMW or ABS sheet. The top rail is designed to the MIL-1913 standard, and accepts all picatinny rail-compatible accessories.
STLs for those of you who want to try printing the parts yourselves will be up after I build the first one. A number of people have asked if I will be selling these, and I'll consider it if there's enough interest. This is simple enough that I should be able to build them very quickly, and I'd estimate that they'd wind up being around $80 + shipping.
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