Semi-auto 2k Prototype-its A Start
Posted 04 September 2004 - 11:56 AM
Posted 04 September 2004 - 12:24 PM
Edited by NinjZ, 04 September 2004 - 12:25 PM.
Posted 04 September 2004 - 12:44 PM
Posted 04 September 2004 - 12:54 PM
Aight, this is what I think your saying, plus my ball valve idea.
Edited by THIRST, 04 September 2004 - 01:02 PM.
Posted 04 September 2004 - 01:23 PM
Posted 04 September 2004 - 02:38 PM
You would want to attach the tube from the plunger tube to the secondary tank as close as possible, I would presume. I'm not sure how or if you can do this, but it would be alot easier than stringing a tube across the stock.
Edited by Hunter, 04 September 2004 - 02:40 PM.
Organizer Vancouver Area Nerf Series
Posted 12 September 2004 - 09:20 PM
Posted 12 September 2004 - 09:49 PM
The Lamari BallGun uses the the tank of the back as the air resivor(sp). So it you go the route of using a system like the BallGun, you could just use 1 foot of 2" PVC with an end cap on one side and use reducers to bring the PVC back down to 1/2" or so.
larami ballgun rubber tubing.
Posted 26 October 2004 - 05:33 PM
I call it The Shpiel. Its Yiddish, Talio told me to name one of my guns a Yiddish.Jewish name, so were we are. Shpiel means speech, and since this deisgn is far superior to the last, it deserves a speech.
Thats my speech. Introducing the newist semi2k!
Edited by THIRST, 26 October 2004 - 05:47 PM.
Posted 26 October 2004 - 05:37 PM
Posted 26 October 2004 - 05:45 PM
Posted 26 October 2004 - 06:03 PM
Call me NSF
Posted 26 October 2004 - 06:09 PM
Posted 26 October 2004 - 06:19 PM
Posted 26 October 2004 - 06:21 PM
Posted 16 November 2004 - 09:26 PM
-Vintage, need a writeup
-Texmustache, need a writeup
-Ompa, need a writeup
-Cx, anything you would like to further contribute would be great, as you really helped us all along. Im probobally going to include several peices from your posts.
-Shortshit,thanks for the writeup...I didnt use it on mine, on the next one I will though. Im still going to include it.
-BoltMasterZero, your is different, but helpfull to this, need a writeup.
I have heard several other people say they may attempt it, but until I get confimration, please notify me. We have put this off for too long, and I understand that we have school work, but it would be nice to get done. I dont have much room to talk, hell, I still ahve a writeup for a single barrel BF sitting on my harddrive...Sorry if I missed anyone, I had a very long day today. Long wrestling practice, 3 hours of homework, and sore muscles= unhappyness.
Lets stop "beating around the bush". It shouldnt take this long, myself included.
Thanks, keep it up,
I would have PM'd this, but I have found many people dont read their PM's...
Posted 16 November 2004 - 09:28 PM
Posted 16 November 2004 - 10:01 PM
Okay, write-up time.
I’m assuming you have:
1 Airtech 2000
1 rapid fire 20
Brass (9/16 or 17/32)
Disassemble both guns. You can scrap the RF20 case, but be sure to keep:
The both valves
The tubing connecters (the white and black things near the tubing connections)
The AIR BLADDER!
Disconnect all tube connecters (I’ll call them tube-screws) and take out all the tube.
Using pliers, unscrew the pump tube from the goo-gauge.
Keep the tube-screw (the black part clamping it)
You have a few paths you can go to-
Use the AT2K pump-
Hold on to the AT2k tube screw, but attach the AT2k pump tube to the air bladder using a RF20 tube screw, which ever prong (the screw-ended parts for putting tube on) you want.
AIR RELEASE METHOD
You can try crimping the tubing.
If you choose this, just take one of your tubes, fold it like a z, put a short piece of tubing at the crimp, then put a tie wrap around it.
Now your main firing setup is done:
I’d say use a turret for you’re barrels, as it has a high ROF and not much range loss.
You know the deal – pull of the existing barrels, glue on the brass: I’d recommend 4” barrels. The work the best, and logically, if 6” barrels are optimized for 90 feet, 4” barrels (2/3 as long) are optimized for 60 feet (2/3 as far).
You want to close up your case, letting the tubes out through the back, but you probably want to leave the blue clear part at the back off. Or, you can drill holes in it to allow the tubes in. Your choice.
Mounting the air bladder:
First things first, put your hose clamp over the white part with 2 prongs, then attach the black bladder, and tighten the clamp really, really, hard.
You can choose to mount the bladder on top of the gun:
If you choose this, just put two tie wraps close to the clamp, and put you’re tie wraps through the top of the Airtech2k case, on either side of the goo-gauge. Tighten it up really good.
You need to attach the tube from your crimp to the liquitron gauge, using the AT2k tube screw.
You should be aiming for-
Range 50-60 feet
Slow release/crimp – 4 shots, 4 seconds
Posted 16 November 2004 - 11:02 PM
Anyway, I can't really see how the writeup would help me as it's semi-self-explanatory.
Posted 16 November 2004 - 11:45 PM
Posted 17 November 2004 - 01:26 AM
1/4" vinyl tubing (I think. The size that come with the RF20. Using the RF20 tubing works as well)
RF20 Bladder + bladder connection intact
3/4" Hose clamp
Drill + 1/4" drill bit
1. Open up the case (you will need to pop off the pump cap) and cut the tubing in there.
2. When you cut the tubing from the pump, make sure not to damage the connection.
3. Hacksaw (dremel) out the back of the gun's shell to make room for the bladder to stick out.
3. Saw off the liquitron gauge at the airtank. (where the orange meets the white section)
4. Use the drill to enlarge the airtank's pump connection.
5. Plumber's goop about 12" of tubing to the airtank's enlarged connection.
6. Plumber's goop the other end to the RF20 bladder.
7. Goop about 1.5" of vinyl tubing over the pump connector.
8. Goop the other end to the other bladder hook-up.
9. When the goop is dry, crimp the 12" tube section twice ("Z" shape) and secure it with tape.
10. Tighten the clamp around the bladder at the front. (leave the plastic back-end clamp on, just clamp the front-end.)
11. Put the gun back together with the bladder sticking out the hole in the back of the shell.
Use alot of goop if you want to reinforce the bladder for more power.
Use a tight-fitting short barrel setup. (Cpvc, Crayola, brass)
Secure the bladder as it hangs out the rear. It won't stick straight out unless you secure it there somehow.
I should be able to get pics up tomorrow after work.
Edited by Vintage, 17 November 2004 - 01:31 AM.
Posted 17 November 2004 - 05:10 PM
Also when you say "needle restriction" do you mean you have a needle in the goop? or you let the goop dry with a needle in it and then removed the needle for a small hole?
Posted 17 November 2004 - 05:20 PM
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