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Stacy: Mag Fed Pistol F.A.R. - First Homemade, Advice Appreciated

homemade magazine pistol

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#26 TulipMama

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 03:25 PM

Question for tulip: would/does the current iteration of the design work with 16,25,and 35 dart drums?

 

Hello Silly, to be fully honest, I couldn't confirm that to be the case, as Stacy was designed to work with a standard nerf Magazine. If drums have the same external dimensions for their connection and dart retention clips, then there shouldn't be any issue with using one. 

 

 

Thanks to Mr. Jwasko, Mr. Meaker and Cpt. Slug's suggestions and comments, I've made some significant changes to the design again, and this time I think I may have a winner, though I am, as always, very open to suggestions. 

 

Stacy R3

 

stacy_operation_1__2_r3_by_the_tulip_mam

stacy_operation_3__4_r3_by_the_tulip_mam

stacy_r3_exploded_by_the_tulip_mama-damm

 

In this iteration, I've removed the single action nature of the bolt/plunger, instead opting to have the bolt pushed forward by the wielder in order to seat the round. The plunger rod and bolt are both made from 3/8" PEX, the body is a more traditional 1-1/4" pvc, and the barrel/breach is made from 1/2" pvc with a 1/2" pneumatic tube liner. The pneumatic tube should give me the tighter barrel diameter that I need to fire these darts more efficiently, and it can pretty easily be opened up by a millimeter or two if need be. The connector screw is used as a cocking handle, pulling back the plunger and bolt simultaneously, the groove in the bolt allows it to move without interfering with the rainbow catch screw, and the groove in the plunger allows the connector screw to move forward freely to allow the bolt to seat the dart. The bolt head has an O-ring on it to seal in with the pneumatic tube in the barrel, and a screw/nut to push the dart forward without crumpling the foam, and moves the back of the dart forward of the hole connecting the plunger body & barrel. The plunger head is a rubber washer squeezed between two flat washers, and I have a long screw going down the length of the plunger for added support, I'm hoping that the rainbow catch will work on the nuts on this screw instead of putting all of the spring force on the plastic PEX.

 

The only thing I'm not feeling 100% about on this design in the 3/8" PEX being used as the plunger rod, because it is relatively soft and I feel like it will get torn apart by repeat use, particularly at the connector screw and the rainbow catch areas. The addition of the nuts on the plunger to catch on the rainbow catch are my attempt to help mitigate wear at that point, but I honestly don't know if it's worth the effort. Has anybody else tried something similar? What was the life-span of your part?

 

Thank you for your time and considerations


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#27 Meaker VI

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 04:42 PM

 

The only thing I'm not feeling 100% about on this design in the 3/8" PEX being used as the plunger rod, because it is relatively soft and I feel like it will get torn apart by repeat use, particularly at the connector screw and the rainbow catch areas. The addition of the nuts on the plunger to catch on the rainbow catch are my attempt to help mitigate wear at that point, but I honestly don't know if it's worth the effort. Has anybody else tried something similar? What was the life-span of your part?

 

Thank you for your time and considerations

 

Yeah... I've done that (similar) with the Mark-8. I used 1/2 CPVC and it worked *OK*, but it'll likely get worn out. PEX is just as soft, but you're using a different catch style (I used more of a SNAP catch, which has a smaller contact area). I can't give you a definite life span, but it won't be a one-and-done part.


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#28 jwasko

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 06:02 PM

I used to play around with 1/2" aluminum tube (I think the ID was around 3/8") for plunger rods. It was sold near the threaded rods in home depot and/or lowes.

 

Also wanted to mention that rather than slotting the plunger rod, you could have something slide over the plunger rod instead. Like how the pump on the +bow rev3 interfaces with the plunger rod: http://www.captainsl...rf/bow3_011.jpg. Your choice which is easier/better for you.

 

Otherwise the design looks great.

 

PS What's a pneumatic tube liner?


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#29 TulipMama

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 09:36 PM

 
PS What's a pneumatic tube liner?


I'm using pneumatic tube as a liner for the pvc pipe. Pneumatic tube is used in air control systems and air tools, usually made from nylon or polyethylene. Imperial sizes are based on the ID, so a 1/2" tube has a 0.5 ID and a .625 OD.
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#30 Silly

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 08:17 AM

So can we have some pictures of a prototype/finished product, or have you not made a working physical design yet?
Also, could a stock be attached from the bottom and top of the handle?
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#31 TulipMama

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 10:42 AM

So can we have some pictures of a prototype/finished product, or have you not made a working physical design yet?
Also, could a stock be attached from the bottom and top of the handle?

 

Hello again Silly,

 

I haven't started the build yet, I wanted to make sure that my design had any merit before I spent any resources on supplies and construction. I'll probably start ordering parts later on this week with build and, hopefully, functional testing info to follow.

 

As for the addition of the stock, it's something I intend to incorporate later on as well, and should be pretty easy to do. Without changing the internals at all, and just the addition of the stock, a longer barrel and/or pump slide, this thing can be changed to a more rifle or shotgun style blaster. With some length alterations to the body, spring, plunger and bolt, you could make the body more length appropriate for those styles as well. 

 

 

Edit: Hi, I've decided to try and get my hands on a piece of 1/2" Schedule 80 pipe, which has a nominal ID of 0.54" which is much, much closer to the 0.511" of the nerf dart without any modifications. 


Edited by TulipMama, 07 November 2016 - 03:25 PM.

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