4 replies to this topic

[Snoop Doggy doge]

godfuckingsamnit
Of course, of fucking course this crashed. I had to rewrite this damn thread. Anyway, this is my take on the sear carbine. I've had like 7 people ask me for this, and half were on NH from Aeromech's thread. Sorry to hijack your thread, but you're not even working on it. Some of this will look familiar, since it's from Chris's thread. Part of it is relevant to the post IMO.
 

You'll be making one of these! Yes they can hop!
Read the whole writeup before you build one
This is text heavy, you don't have to read everything, but I highly reccomend it. Overall, I feel like I could replicate this in a few hours. Probably will take you 6. Less time than to write this whole fucking writeup.

I am not responsible for any damage or any actions you make following this guide. It is up to you to use common sense building and using this blaster. Wear eye protection and gloves, work in a ventilated space and don't point this at anyone outside of playing a game. 


Preface

Spoiler

Alright, so I built this in mind knowing this is a mash of the ESLT and Snap Carbine. I've stuck my dick in both of them and I knew how they work. This design was built to be made with, very simple tools. It's been done by Chris, but to any noob who may feel discouraged, since Chris has spent a lot of time building homemades, I went out to build it from scratch myself, (I FIX and MAINTAIN homemades, and understand them but a lot of understanding was through reading)

Anyway, that's boring. Why does that matter? This is my first (technicallly) homemade I built (from scratch)
SO THIS MEANS YOU CAN BUILD IT TOO! Use a 1/8 drill bit laterally if you're too damn lazy to hacksaw, or whatever drill bit comes with a dremel and make this because it speeds it up. (wear gloves, and full facial protection if you do this though) 
I would highly reccomend using a dremel doing this, Fuck Chris and his hand BS, without any templates or proper measurements I built this in 10 collective hours with trial and error. WAY LESS TIME THAN A RAINBOW AND SNAP BECAUSE THOSE ARE FINICKY AT FIRST. If you had templates and didn't try and strip and copy an ESLT STL you would cut down build time to like 8 hours with other finicking around.

SO STICK YOUR FOOT IN THE WORLD OF HOMEMADES, THIS IS REALLLY EASSYY TO DOO

My Build goals

Spoiler

Build this shit better than Chris by
-using a better charging handle bolted onto the bolt
-use something better than a rubber band for a return mech
-cutting cost down further
-use something better than a superlative seal or whatever the fuck that was.
    I can put a skirt seal in this if I really wanted too
-make the "lower reciever" strip easily and not require a fucking ziptie
   my zipties are reserved for the bedroom. Also, I like not replacing a piece every fieldstrip

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Spoiler

Materials

Spoiler

4 in of 1-1/2 in PVC
17 in of 1-1/4 in PVC
7 in of 1 in PVC
12 in of 3/4 in PVC (or more, most of it is for the stock)
1 in of 1/2 in PVC 
1 in to 3/4 in bushing
1 in to 1/2 in bushing
3/4 in elbow
3/4 in cap
6x6 in of cutting board (the good shit, HDPE would work great. It's like 1/4 in thick, you can use polycarb if you want too)
3-1/2 in of nylon/delrin (replacable with a wooden dowel
k18 spring (you can use [k25] or [k26], but will need some more 1 in PVC for anti kink) [McMaster Carr part]
12 #6 screws (3/8 in long)
10 #6 screws (1 in long)
6 flathead #6 screws (1 in long)
some tiny extension spring. You can find one in a pen or a tek 6. alternatively, a rubberband works
2 nerf screws
epoxy putty
goop (epoxy can work)
superglue 
silicone grease
u-cup seal (skirt seal works too) the shit that fits in 1-1/4 in PVC [McMaster Carr part]
packing tape
4 #6 washers
1/4in to 1-1/4in washer (any type washer with a diameter of 1 1/4" will suffice. this isn't mandated if u have a k18 spring but helps keep dirt out. alternatively you can make it out of cutting board and secure it to the bolt with another machine screw)
NOTE

Spoiler

I know this looks like a long list, but I'm listing every consumable you will need. you cannot buy exact quantities of screws, and if you order. I bought a lot of the things in bulk, all the PVC I got in 10 ft except for the 1-1/2 in, and everything else I bought in quanitity. Some thing I had laying around, if you're an experienced builder you may have most of these parts laying around. The total amount of money I spent, part for part listed adds up to 70$ if you buy EVERYTHING on the list. I spent about 40 buying stuff I didn't have laying around, and have the material to make 5 of these. I will have built 4 by the end of this writeup, maybe more because I'm using all my u-cup seals in these.

For maximum cost efficiency, you can get a lot of machine screws that are longer and cut them to length as I did, but that's more tinkering and lots of metal flying

Tools

Spoiler

Dremel + cutting wheel, sanding bit
Drill set up to 1/2 in
(only 1/2 in, 7/64, 5/64 and 5/32 bits were used)
Hacksaw
Sandpaper 
Sharpie
Template
Gloves
Eyeprotection
Filtration mask (fuck these fumes)
Ruler
Pliers
Screwdriver
Optional but reccomended
Pipecutter (the spinny one!)
Holesaw
3/8 drill bit (SPEEDHOLES)
Countersink (not required. Ghetto technique is shown below)
Vice (I only used mine to make the speedholes in the "bolt" and freestyled everything else)
Probably a belt sander and scroll saw but I didn't even touch one making this

STEPS

oh boy, now it's about time to start. About damn time. All steps will be BELOW the photo. Make sure everything is cut to length as displayed above. If you notice any discrepencies in photos, or slight differences, I'm making 3 of these blasters at the same time. 
Upper body tube steps

Spoiler

7 inches away from one end of the front end (doesn't really matter which side) make a mark. Than continue the mark for the other 10 inches to the other side of the PVC. 

 
Go up half inch from where you initially started the first mark. Than make a line parallel and straight like the other one. 
This is your slot, where the charging handle will go through. Make sure your charging handle can slide through no problem. If it can't sand or cut out more material


Mark another slot 1/2 in wide and 2 in long somewhere. This will be kinda where you're gripping from, so make sure you can pull the bolt and that you like the angle it's at. It has to be at least an inch away from the first slot


Cut your shit out. I start cutting from the start and than out of the PVC, instead of inward for the main slot. For the end, you can drill with a half in bit so it touches and than dremel out, but I just cut at it a little bit with the dremel, and than snapped it out with pliers. Sand and deburr. Also look at dat priveledge on my glove, 


See you can drill this slot out with just your drill, but I sunk in my dremel, than made a little cut into both ends, than a triangle cut like shown. This is so I can put a pair of pliers in and snap them both out. Deburr and sand.


cut a ring of 3/4 in PVC to 1/4 in long. Nylon rod cut is also shown. Feel free to make the nylon abit longer or shorter if you like,
but 3-1/2 in long is a long enough charging handle for me


sand that nylon a bit so its a rounded at the front. Not too much, just as shown so it fits in the inner wall of 1 in PVC

 
take your 7 in long 1in PVC. This is your "bolt" and make an x half an inch in. A little closer in wouldn't hurt


Drill straight through with a 7/64 bit

 
Drill with half in drill bit, deburr and put in Nylon rod. It should look flush(ish) like this


Make sure that hole is centered in the nylon. Now drill through the hole about 1-1/2 in or however long your flat head is. It should be at least an inch long. Do it slowly, and let material come out of the nylon. It gets hot as fuck and shit starts melting otherwise. Take your time.

 
Now for the ghetto countersinking. Take your half in material and by hand drill. You can even do this with a knife but remove material so there's space and enough for your flathead to sit in here. 

 
Sink it in all the way. Make sure the flat head sits flush


put it in the main body tube. The bolt carrier assembly should slide around with out lube. Sand the whole bolt assembly if needed

 

Now pull the bolt til you have 3-1/2 in of extra space left. That is where the spring compresses.

Hold the bolt, take your sharpie, check the small slot and use your sharpie to mark where the slots line up. Adjust the bolt up and down so your catch will catcha wether the bolt is more up or down


Take the bolt out and cut out them slots. Do the sandwhich thing, use pliers to get out the pieces, sand and deburr.


Now go to the front of the bolt. dremel a bit out so the 1/4 in long 3/4 in PVC sliver can fit flush. If you have magic 3/4, 1/2 in PVC may fit in there. If 1/2 in PVC doesn't fit in there, sand the fuck out of the 3/4 in PVC so the 1/2 in can fit in. it should all be tight and snug fit. Kinda finicky, you'll see why I did this later

OPTIONAL TACTICAL SPEEDHOLE BOLT

Spoiler

Don't fucking do this without a vice. I tried off handing it, I drilled my glove. Ow. Anyway, you can be sloppy and just drill holes with no sense like Chirs (shots fired biatch) or actually creat an outline. I switch to the superior Metric system drilling these bolts with a 3/8 bit. I also don't expose holes to for when the blasters primed, because dirt and shit gets in your system. you can drill speed holes everywhere, even on the ramp but I only do it on the side. I would do this before doing the previous steps to assemble the bolt in case you fuck up, but you can do it later as shown. 


Make a shit ton of lines. I space each column of holes a centimeter from each other, and each hole also a centi meter away from each other. On every other set, I marked the hole on each 1/2 cm so they'd be alternating. Kinda hard to put into words

 
I drilled with the 7/64 as a pilot for all the holes. Put dis bitch in the vice. you don't wanna fuck up. It's also tiring becuse you don't want to penetrate the other side of the bolt


Move onto the 3/8 bit and drill all  the holes out. BE CAREFUL. You don't want to drill to the other side of the bolt
Deburr, clear out the fuck out of the inside. Now you've got a faster bolt. I don't know if it increases FPS that much, but why the fuck not am I right? Gotta go fast 

Cut a hole of cutting board that doesn't go to the edge of th seal but secure sits over the center. YOU CAN USE A DREMEL TO MAKE THIS, IT JUST WON'T LOOK PRETTY. Alternatively, but untested you can get a metal washer that's 1 in in diameter

 

Fill half the 1 in long 1/2 in PVC with Eputty.


Now put one 1 in long machine screws in through the center of a plate you julst drilled (or the hole of the washer) and let it sit. Because I used an arbor too big, I put a washer under my screw on the plunger head. 


You can put either a U-cup or skirt seal on there, I would put a u-cup on their because I'm a cheap fucker.


drill a hole near the front, counter sink with a larger drillbit and put a flathead through. This is so the plunger assembly doesn't come out 
Add lube and you're good! However, I'd remove the seal and refraim from lubing til you finish the lower rciever. This is so you can just test and not get your reciever dirty.
 

(  
Oh yea! don't forget that washer lol, or plate of cutting board. I just superglued it onto the back. Real simple. If you use cutting board or polycarb plate on the back, drill and secure it to the charging handle. This is important to keep dirt out or use any other smaller springs but not mandated with a K18 spring.

Lower Reciever steps
This assembly should be near damn impossible to break unless you print it. even than, pretty hard

Spoiler

(add template)
Start off with cutting out this template or printing it. (Print details in comment below)
I would suggest using an ESLT lower, or wait til Aeromech posts his printed lower version. It saves a lotta hassle 


This is the lower. I'm borrowing the ESLT sear because I'm lazy. Ignore the long clamp, and their return srping.
Basically, make this out of cutting board. 

 
So cut everthing out, I'd seperate stuff. I honestly just have a filler picture here

 
Assemble the side plates and spacer piece by drilling through and putting 2 regular machine screw though. Add #6 washers inbetween one of the plates on both screws to give it some space.

 
cut out a 1-1/2 in long piece of 1-1/2 in PVC. Than cut off a a third of it. This is your front clamp it should loook like a u. 

 
Drill into the spacer but avoid the machine screws. Drill into the PVC clamp. Tap where you drilled with ghetto bit and assemble so it sits on.

 
Than test to make sure your sear "catches" and locks. If it doesn't catch, make a new one or trouble shoot. It just has to be able to have the bolt lock back.

 
Drill the marked hole in your sear witha 5/32 bit. This is so it can move freely on a machine screw.

 
Drill through your lower with a 7/64, attatch sear like this on the screw and push on the sear and see if it catches again. If it catches, great move on. If not, drill your hole higher. 

 
Drill the marked hole with a 1/8 bit again on the trigger, and than use drill witha 7/64 where marked 
Screw through and assemble on lower reciever. Remember, you want the moving pieces to move freely

 
Testing is the fucking key. Make sure everything works and the sear catches. 

 
Also, if you want to reduce trigger pull length, put another screw to stop the trigger from coming too far forward. Make sure this doesn't disrupt the catching mechanism though


Cut out another 1-1/2 in long piece of 1-1/2 in PVC and cut in half. You don't want this to snap on. Hell, you may be able to use the piece that you cut off from the 1-1/2 in clamp earlier.
Than connect to main handle piece. As Aeromech point out, you'll run your hand into this charging. In a future revison I may update the photo, but I'd put it so one end is on the handle.
Center and align main handle so the reciever is striaght above catch. Just make everything straight.

 
Drill through the rear PVC peice into the body tube, 2 in each side and screw in. Make sure bolt can move around freely still.  If there is excess PVC in the way of the charging handle, cut it off.

 
Attatch the handle to reciever. This is so everything is one assembly. 


Oh yea, put a #6 washer in each screw securing the handle. This is just so everything is spaced.

 
Make sideplates for the handle so it's actually gripable. It's not neccesary, but really this makes the handle more decent.

 
Attatch side plates to handle by drilling through all and screwing in.

 
sand the fuck out of it til it's a decent handle and you're willing to hold + use it. You're holding onto this all day, may as well make it good.

 
If you're a lazy fucker like me, you can just wrap the handle in etape. Works, and isn't complete shit. 

 
drill a hole somewhere into the front sear catch with a 5/32 bit, and one near the trigger/handle. 
Than attatch a return spring and screw them both in with a nerf spring. test prime and make sure everything catches.

 
Now you have a finished lower reciever! 4 screws and it's off. 

Final steps

Spoiler

You're almost done! This last part is just assembly.

 
Add a few wraps of packing tape or etap to your 1/2 to 1 in bushing and than tap it at the front end.

 
Than goop it, add screws but goop those too! (screws should be 3/8 long


Tape over your bushing because fuck that smell! (with duct tape. That smell is literally cancer)

 
Now attatch the 3/4 to 1 in bushing in the end and screw it in.

 
This is the stock. cut  3/4 in PVC to however long you want, an elbow, than cut another length to rest your shoulder up against. Combine. possibly put a screw screw in if you want it to be extra sturdy

OPTIONAL : [k26] adapter
(anti kink mech and plate)

Spoiler

This piece you need if you're not using a K18 spring.
This lets you use smaller springs and prevents kinking. Reccomened if you have all other materials but not the K18 as it's not common or used in many other blasters.


You'll need duct tape, a 1-1/4 washer like used before, 2 inches of 1 in PVC, and the 1in to 3/4 bushing


configure all the pieces together like this. PVC segment to washer to bushing. Than tape it

 
Now your bushing is ready to put it into the end of your body tube.

 
Didn't put in the seal right? Well detatch the rear bushing AND lower reciever, remove the bolt and attatch lube the fuck out of it. Put grease through the slots, and than wipe off excess grease on the seal so you can slide the bolt back in the body tube.

  
guide the seal back in. When it comes to the slots, push the flaps of the ucup/skirt in and slide it in, shouldn't have much resistance, you don't want to tear the seal. Add more lube though the front of the bushing and you're good to go. 

 
Add in the spring and attatch the stock along with the lower reciever. Boom. You got yourself a working primary, all you need is a hopper setup. A standard setup should suffice (12 in barrel, 5 dart hopper) 
Go figure that out yourself. (displayed is my personal running a 14 in transitional .495-.527 alu barrel with a 6 dart hopper just cuz but I would reccomend a shorter barrel)

RESULTS

Spoiler

I have no fucking clue what this would be called. IDK, call it the practical innovated sear carbine?
Enough with the stupid names, if you build it like I did I don't care, it doesn't need a name, it's a different approach to a similar concept which is the sear carbine

Notice the skater tape on the black bolt, I would do this just cuz, tactics? not required but I had skater tape so why not.


most of the right side was flush. But because I built this all in my lap, I accidentally drilled too high making the catch connection point on the reciever. So I used deez nuts to help kinda secure it. The other screw is a trigger block to prevent from pullign the trigger all the way

 
SNAP Carbine size compraison. (Alfatroopers Mk2 heavily modded and repaired by me)
The SNAP is longer because the stock isn't removed, but it can be shorter since it has a shorter bolt than the Sear Carbine
However it is taller, which kinda feels weird at first.

 
Fits in a backpack great. Just the bolt handle is a bit akward but I tape my barrel and wye assembly on the left side so it's not just the charging handle jutting into something

less than 5 minutes to open up and reassemble while taking pictures using a multitool DX gave me. Quick spring change and maitnence.


Size comparison of a sear carbine to other blasters, in case you wanted to see

END THOUGHTS

Spoiler

Overall I think this was a cool project and a great design. Was a bitch to make since I did this on the floor,  just a dremel drill hacksaw and assorted bits, + cutting board and PVC but would've been LOVELY to have a damn table and proper vice that wasn't shit and spun around on an axis
Everyone should make one of these if you have the time since they're dead simple and shouldn't be fucked up. once Aeromech releases templates, you shouldn't have a damn struggle making any of these pieces. Hell, I copied an ESLT lower to make this, 
You could probably take an ESLT lower and machine a catch to line up with one if you want, so you can print it out if you're lazy and make this in an hour and a half.
My Sear carbine hops well, idk sounds fine and is so cheap + simple + reliable, I should make more to hand out to noobs.
Seriously, make one and we can all have loaners and backup rifles. Everyone gets a rifle.

Edited by Snoop Doggy doge, 02 October 2016 - 11:26 PM.

[Snoop Doggy doge]

This comment is reserved.
Because Phil can do it.


But also because I'm going to add extras. (comfort mod, folding stock, extra cool shit to do)


First thing I reccomend. Either get some skater tape or really light sandpaper and put it on your charging handle. 10/10 tactics, can grip when hands are wet and it is raining, or if you got gloves on


I added some to my charging handle, on one of my carbines has grip tape on the side of the pistol grip to give some stippling. 

3D PRINTING FILES
Print the Upgrade trigger here (my fav)
and use this to print the lower reciever.
You need the 

-catch piece

-front handle piece

-main handle z print

and the trigger pieces if you're going to use an ESLT trigger instead of the Aeromech one. I prefer the Aeromech upgrade trigger,


Yes I know this isn't complete and looks like a mess, { but I spent more time writing all of this than Chris spent building his sear carbine. 
#shotsfired }
Don't worry, cool shit soon. 

 

USER WAS WARNED FOR FORGETTING WHOSE HOUSE HE'S IN 

FUCKING 1v1 ME AT APOC BITCH
(guess whose carbine kicked more ass)

Edited by Snoop Doggy doge, 02 October 2016 - 11:27 PM.

[Aeromech]

Wonderful writeup. I work 7 to 5 most days, and then work out for 2 hours per day on top of that, so I am really beat when I get home, and it's a miracle I got this design out when I did.

 

This take is far superior to my original design BUT it breaks the design goals that I personally set out to achieve when I created the original blaster, namely, to be able to build it without having to order anything online. The spring does not count in my opinion, because if you plan on going to a war, you can ask in a NH or FB thread for someone to supply a [k26] spring when you get there. Remove three screws, throw a spring in, and add the screws back in. No "online ordering" has taken place, the K25s/26s are common enough that you can get one anywhere in the homemade scene, and the design itself is robust enough to handle a wide range of common springs. Back to the "no-online stuff"; the U cup seal and Nylon rod both must be ordered from an online vendor and are not simply "drop-in" like the aforementioned spring. i.e. more manufacturing operations are required to get these components in there and working correctly. You put down the superlative plunger seal (and normally I would too) but for whatever reason, it works. On my prototype, there was barely any creep in the bolt when testing the air seal, and the movement I did have was coming from the BUSHING! So the forward bushing seal wasn't 100%, but whatever the 1" PVC fit is with hardware store rubber washers must be pretty good. If it works, don't fix it. As for the charging handle, yes nylon is a million times as good as a wooden dowel. But it breaks the rules that I (arbitrarily) set for my design goals. A wooden dowel, perhaps reinforced with some steel rod (straight from the hardware store) would suffice for those that for whatever reason do not have access to McMaster. The whole point of the original was to make something with the hardware store accessibility of a SNAP, but without the rather negative experiences that I had with the three SNAPS that I built. So its a SNAP, but it isn't. That was always my goal. To say you've made this better than the non-McMaster one is almost trivial. When given unlimited resources OF COURSE you can make things better, but where's the FUN?!

 

EDIT: Also some more constructive criticism. On my design, the reason that the 1-1/2" PVC "half-pipes" that hold the receiver in place are offset by about 45 degrees is to be away from the charging handle. Take a look at your blaster, especially where the rear half pipe is. Imagine in the heat of a war, you're not thinking anymore, you go to prime back your bolt with all your might, get your hand real close to the receiver and slam it back... but what's this? Your hand is bleeding because the edge of the half-pipe is directly in the path of the bolt handle? Yup. That's my biggest criticism of your design but it's an easy fix and otherwise bravo it looks and I'm sure performs bodaciously.

 

If I haven't stated it yet, I love the writeup and the resulting blaster. But realize that someone without access to these tools can sub in the aforementioned parts and still have a competitive blaster without dealing with the hassles of online ordering parts. It was a completely arbitrary design goal because I don't know, I like to make things more difficult than they are. Good writeup. I expect to see ten of these at APOC.

Edited by Aeromech, 01 August 2016 - 11:05 PM.

[Snoop Doggy doge]

awww shiet I got you to respond.
I love the constructive criticism and actually finsihed the upper and lower of 3 more of these. So there will be 4 maybe 5 at APOC because I'm running out of cutting board. The intent and goal of my design was to make one that, seemed less tacky for veteran builders and to do something with extra parts. Maybe your rainbow had some extra sliver nylon left over, you have another seal and everyone pretty much has these parts laying around so building it should be a ok. Also, because your a seal snob, you can get a skirt seal in there! I know you like your skirt seals but 5 ucups are the price of one, and this is for quality.

My whole thing with the, fuckit I'm getting online parts is that, fuckit dude, you gotta get a wye, may as well get some springs, a foot of nylon, a decent seal and get some shit at home depot. I'm assuming you're spending like 30$ for everything including shipping from Mcmaster, shouldn't break the bank. There's still a place for your variant, I just wanted to add some reliability. I also semi war tested it with a friend throughout a day of dicking around, nothing really happening.

I also didn't have any wood around but I had some extra nylon that I salvaged from Zachs broken rainbow. God what a fucking mess that was. As for what the challenge, I made this without a table or a vice bending over and drilling into my lap breaking a shit ton of safety procedures and giving myself cancer.
#hardcore. (seriously, space is tight in the city.) so you know, that was my hard part. I have a cut on my leg, hole in my palm, cuts everywhere, a burnt finger and plastic dust everywhere as of making 4 of these. 

Also, I was thinking about the last part. I could move the half piped out of the way, but I would just reccomend wearing gloves with these, and will be providing them as loaners when using them because that can be an issue. What I did to kinda circumvent that is sand the fuck out of the sharper edges. Hopefully no ouchies, I am going to redesign these after APOC to be ambidextrious and modular (pump action yo) and do some more experimenting, like with speedholes on the ramp that are small to cut down weight even further. I also extended the charging handle on the newer ones so hopefully people won't grab it so close but further out where the texturing is. Oh yea, I'm putting skater tape on the bolt to show where to grab. 

In the end, I'm happy I found a way to stick my dick in your designs, and I will definitely adress the half clamp thing in the later revisions, maybe like 2.0.
Maybe we can expand this out as far as the SNAP
>inb4 carbine criticisms 

Writeup to be finished by wednesday. I'm going out tommorow so I can't slave away building writing and taking pics yet. Currently at 5 hours and 40 minutes of writing and only halfway done. *le sigh*
Fucking Phil, make it so I can upload more than 10 photos. I make mah shit detailed son

[Snoop Doggy doge]

Bumping this because first I finished it,

Second it was war tested heavily at APOC. A lot of people tried it, I never had to run it but I ran it the day after with a shotgun tubed barrel and it was pretty cool. Couldn't find a chrony but it was very fun. Report came back that it was a noticabley lower powered, like a higher end ESLT but also the bolt texturing was very aggresive and required gloves. Everyone enjoyed it and it was fun, "it was a front line assault gun, kinda eh and was like the British Sten" from someones plus one. I can kinda agree and see that. I know it wasn't a very competive blaster but it was a fun blaster and easy as a loaner. Hell, maybe you could use these in superstock too as they did fire rockets decently. (throw on like a 4 in CPVC barrel and wrap some etape to give more of a seal on the rocket) 

Kinda glad I made this, waiting for ESLT 1.7 blue prints to attatch the lower reciever parts. Or for Chris to release his files or something

Edited by CaptainSlug, 27 August 2016 - 10:16 AM.