Of course, of fucking course this crashed. I had to rewrite this damn thread. Anyway, this is my take on the sear carbine. I've had like 7 people ask me for this, and half were on NH from Aeromech's thread. Sorry to hijack your thread, but you're not even working on it. Some of this will look familiar, since it's from Chris's thread. Part of it is relevant to the post IMO.
You'll be making one of these! Yes they can hop!
Read the whole writeup before you build one
This is text heavy, you don't have to read everything, but I highly reccomend it. Overall, I feel like I could replicate this in a few hours. Probably will take you 6. Less time than to write this whole fucking writeup.
I am not responsible for any damage or any actions you make following this guide. It is up to you to use common sense building and using this blaster. Wear eye protection and gloves, work in a ventilated space and don't point this at anyone outside of playing a game.
Alright, so I built this in mind knowing this is a mash of the ESLT and Snap Carbine. I've stuck my dick in both of them and I knew how they work. This design was built to be made with, very simple tools. It's been done by Chris, but to any noob who may feel discouraged, since Chris has spent a lot of time building homemades, I went out to build it from scratch myself, (I FIX and MAINTAIN homemades, and understand them but a lot of understanding was through reading)
Anyway, that's boring. Why does that matter? This is my first (technicallly) homemade I built (from scratch)
SO THIS MEANS YOU CAN BUILD IT TOO! Use a 1/8 drill bit laterally if you're too damn lazy to hacksaw, or whatever drill bit comes with a dremel and make this because it speeds it up. (wear gloves, and full facial protection if you do this though)
I would highly reccomend using a dremel doing this, Fuck Chris and his hand BS, without any templates or proper measurements I built this in 10 collective hours with trial and error. WAY LESS TIME THAN A RAINBOW AND SNAP BECAUSE THOSE ARE FINICKY AT FIRST. If you had templates and didn't try and strip and copy an ESLT STL you would cut down build time to like 8 hours with other finicking around.
SO STICK YOUR FOOT IN THE WORLD OF HOMEMADES, THIS IS REALLLY EASSYY TO DOO
My Build goals
Build this shit better than Chris by
-using a better charging handle bolted onto the bolt
-use something better than a rubber band for a return mech
-cutting cost down further
-use something better than a superlative seal or whatever the fuck that was.
I can put a skirt seal in this if I really wanted too
-make the "lower reciever" strip easily and not require a fucking ziptie
my zipties are reserved for the bedroom. Also, I like not replacing a piece every fieldstrip
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
4 in of 1-1/2 in PVC
17 in of 1-1/4 in PVC
7 in of 1 in PVC
12 in of 3/4 in PVC (or more, most of it is for the stock)
1 in of 1/2 in PVC
1 in to 3/4 in bushing
1 in to 1/2 in bushing
3/4 in elbow
3/4 in cap
6x6 in of cutting board (the good shit, HDPE would work great. It's like 1/4 in thick, you can use polycarb if you want too)
3-1/2 in of nylon/delrin (replacable with a wooden dowel
k18 spring (you can use [k25] or [k26], but will need some more 1 in PVC for anti kink) [McMaster Carr part]
12 #6 screws (3/8 in long)
10 #6 screws (1 in long)
6 flathead #6 screws (1 in long)
some tiny extension spring. You can find one in a pen or a tek 6. alternatively, a rubberband works
2 nerf screws
goop (epoxy can work)
u-cup seal (skirt seal works too) the shit that fits in 1-1/4 in PVC [McMaster Carr part]
4 #6 washers
1/4in to 1-1/4in washer (any type washer with a diameter of 1 1/4" will suffice. this isn't mandated if u have a k18 spring but helps keep dirt out. alternatively you can make it out of cutting board and secure it to the bolt with another machine screw)
I know this looks like a long list, but I'm listing every consumable you will need. you cannot buy exact quantities of screws, and if you order. I bought a lot of the things in bulk, all the PVC I got in 10 ft except for the 1-1/2 in, and everything else I bought in quanitity. Some thing I had laying around, if you're an experienced builder you may have most of these parts laying around. The total amount of money I spent, part for part listed adds up to 70$ if you buy EVERYTHING on the list. I spent about 40 buying stuff I didn't have laying around, and have the material to make 5 of these. I will have built 4 by the end of this writeup, maybe more because I'm using all my u-cup seals in these.
For maximum cost efficiency, you can get a lot of machine screws that are longer and cut them to length as I did, but that's more tinkering and lots of metal flying
Dremel + cutting wheel, sanding bit
Drill set up to 1/2 in
(only 1/2 in, 7/64, 5/64 and 5/32 bits were used)
Filtration mask (fuck these fumes)
Optional but reccomended
Pipecutter (the spinny one!)
3/8 drill bit (SPEEDHOLES)
Countersink (not required. Ghetto technique is shown below)
Vice (I only used mine to make the speedholes in the "bolt" and freestyled everything else)
Probably a belt sander and scroll saw but I didn't even touch one making this
oh boy, now it's about time to start. About damn time. All steps will be BELOW the photo. Make sure everything is cut to length as displayed above. If you notice any discrepencies in photos, or slight differences, I'm making 3 of these blasters at the same time. Hold the bolt, take your sharpie, check the small slot and use your sharpie to mark where the slots line up. Adjust the bolt up and down so your catch will catcha wether the bolt is more up or down Cut a hole of cutting board that doesn't go to the edge of th seal but secure sits over the center. YOU CAN USE A DREMEL TO MAKE THIS, IT JUST WON'T LOOK PRETTY. Alternatively, but untested you can get a metal washer that's 1 in in diameter (
Lower Reciever steps Notice the skater tape on the black bolt, I would do this just cuz, tactics? not required but I had skater tape so why not.
Upper body tube steps
7 inches away from one end of the front end (doesn't really matter which side) make a mark. Than continue the mark for the other 10 inches to the other side of the PVC.
Go up half inch from where you initially started the first mark. Than make a line parallel and straight like the other one.
This is your slot, where the charging handle will go through. Make sure your charging handle can slide through no problem. If it can't sand or cut out more material
Mark another slot 1/2 in wide and 2 in long somewhere. This will be kinda where you're gripping from, so make sure you can pull the bolt and that you like the angle it's at. It has to be at least an inch away from the first slot
Cut your shit out. I start cutting from the start and than out of the PVC, instead of inward for the main slot. For the end, you can drill with a half in bit so it touches and than dremel out, but I just cut at it a little bit with the dremel, and than snapped it out with pliers. Sand and deburr. Also look at dat priveledge on my glove,
See you can drill this slot out with just your drill, but I sunk in my dremel, than made a little cut into both ends, than a triangle cut like shown. This is so I can put a pair of pliers in and snap them both out. Deburr and sand.
cut a ring of 3/4 in PVC to 1/4 in long. Nylon rod cut is also shown. Feel free to make the nylon abit longer or shorter if you like,
but 3-1/2 in long is a long enough charging handle for me
sand that nylon a bit so its a rounded at the front. Not too much, just as shown so it fits in the inner wall of 1 in PVC
take your 7 in long 1in PVC. This is your "bolt" and make an x half an inch in. A little closer in wouldn't hurt
Drill straight through with a 7/64 bit
Drill with half in drill bit, deburr and put in Nylon rod. It should look flush(ish) like this
Make sure that hole is centered in the nylon. Now drill through the hole about 1-1/2 in or however long your flat head is. It should be at least an inch long. Do it slowly, and let material come out of the nylon. It gets hot as fuck and shit starts melting otherwise. Take your time.
Now for the ghetto countersinking. Take your half in material and by hand drill. You can even do this with a knife but remove material so there's space and enough for your flathead to sit in here.
Sink it in all the way. Make sure the flat head sits flush
put it in the main body tube. The bolt carrier assembly should slide around with out lube. Sand the whole bolt assembly if needed
Take the bolt out and cut out them slots. Do the sandwhich thing, use pliers to get out the pieces, sand and deburr.
Now go to the front of the bolt. dremel a bit out so the 1/4 in long 3/4 in PVC sliver can fit flush. If you have magic 3/4, 1/2 in PVC may fit in there. If 1/2 in PVC doesn't fit in there, sand the fuck out of the 3/4 in PVC so the 1/2 in can fit in. it should all be tight and snug fit. Kinda finicky, you'll see why I did this later
OPTIONAL TACTICAL SPEEDHOLE BOLT
Don't fucking do this without a vice. I tried off handing it, I drilled my glove. Ow. Anyway, you can be sloppy and just drill holes with no sense like Chirs (shots fired biatch) or actually creat an outline. I switch to the superior Metric system drilling these bolts with a 3/8 bit. I also don't expose holes to for when the blasters primed, because dirt and shit gets in your system. you can drill speed holes everywhere, even on the ramp but I only do it on the side. I would do this before doing the previous steps to assemble the bolt in case you fuck up, but you can do it later as shown.
Make a shit ton of lines. I space each column of holes a centimeter from each other, and each hole also a centi meter away from each other. On every other set, I marked the hole on each 1/2 cm so they'd be alternating. Kinda hard to put into words
I drilled with the 7/64 as a pilot for all the holes. Put dis bitch in the vice. you don't wanna fuck up. It's also tiring becuse you don't want to penetrate the other side of the bolt
Move onto the 3/8 bit and drill all the holes out. BE CAREFUL. You don't want to drill to the other side of the bolt
Deburr, clear out the fuck out of the inside. Now you've got a faster bolt. I don't know if it increases FPS that much, but why the fuck not am I right? Gotta go fast
Fill half the 1 in long 1/2 in PVC with Eputty.
Now put one 1 in long machine screws in through the center of a plate you julst drilled (or the hole of the washer) and let it sit. Because I used an arbor too big, I put a washer under my screw on the plunger head.
You can put either a U-cup or skirt seal on there, I would put a u-cup on their because I'm a cheap fucker.
drill a hole near the front, counter sink with a larger drillbit and put a flathead through. This is so the plunger assembly doesn't come out
Add lube and you're good! However, I'd remove the seal and refraim from lubing til you finish the lower rciever. This is so you can just test and not get your reciever dirty.
Oh yea! don't forget that washer lol, or plate of cutting board. I just superglued it onto the back. Real simple. If you use cutting board or polycarb plate on the back, drill and secure it to the charging handle. This is important to keep dirt out or use any other smaller springs but not mandated with a K18 spring.
This assembly should be near damn impossible to break unless you print it. even than, pretty hard
Start off with cutting out this template or printing it. (Print details in comment below)
I would suggest using an ESLT lower, or wait til Aeromech posts his printed lower version. It saves a lotta hassle
This is the lower. I'm borrowing the ESLT sear because I'm lazy. Ignore the long clamp, and their return srping.
Basically, make this out of cutting board.
So cut everthing out, I'd seperate stuff. I honestly just have a filler picture here
Assemble the side plates and spacer piece by drilling through and putting 2 regular machine screw though. Add #6 washers inbetween one of the plates on both screws to give it some space.
cut out a 1-1/2 in long piece of 1-1/2 in PVC. Than cut off a a third of it. This is your front clamp it should loook like a u.
Drill into the spacer but avoid the machine screws. Drill into the PVC clamp. Tap where you drilled with ghetto bit and assemble so it sits on.
Than test to make sure your sear "catches" and locks. If it doesn't catch, make a new one or trouble shoot. It just has to be able to have the bolt lock back.
Drill the marked hole in your sear witha 5/32 bit. This is so it can move freely on a machine screw.
Drill through your lower with a 7/64, attatch sear like this on the screw and push on the sear and see if it catches again. If it catches, great move on. If not, drill your hole higher.
Drill the marked hole with a 1/8 bit again on the trigger, and than use drill witha 7/64 where marked
Screw through and assemble on lower reciever. Remember, you want the moving pieces to move freely
Testing is the fucking key. Make sure everything works and the sear catches.
Also, if you want to reduce trigger pull length, put another screw to stop the trigger from coming too far forward. Make sure this doesn't disrupt the catching mechanism though
Cut out another 1-1/2 in long piece of 1-1/2 in PVC and cut in half. You don't want this to snap on. Hell, you may be able to use the piece that you cut off from the 1-1/2 in clamp earlier.
Than connect to main handle piece. As Aeromech point out, you'll run your hand into this charging. In a future revison I may update the photo, but I'd put it so one end is on the handle.
Center and align main handle so the reciever is striaght above catch. Just make everything straight.
Drill through the rear PVC peice into the body tube, 2 in each side and screw in. Make sure bolt can move around freely still. If there is excess PVC in the way of the charging handle, cut it off.
Attatch the handle to reciever. This is so everything is one assembly.
Oh yea, put a #6 washer in each screw securing the handle. This is just so everything is spaced.
Make sideplates for the handle so it's actually gripable. It's not neccesary, but really this makes the handle more decent.
Attatch side plates to handle by drilling through all and screwing in.
sand the fuck out of it til it's a decent handle and you're willing to hold + use it. You're holding onto this all day, may as well make it good.
If you're a lazy fucker like me, you can just wrap the handle in etape. Works, and isn't complete shit.
drill a hole somewhere into the front sear catch with a 5/32 bit, and one near the trigger/handle.
Than attatch a return spring and screw them both in with a nerf spring. test prime and make sure everything catches.
Now you have a finished lower reciever! 4 screws and it's off.
You're almost done! This last part is just assembly.
Add a few wraps of packing tape or etap to your 1/2 to 1 in bushing and than tap it at the front end.
Than goop it, add screws but goop those too! (screws should be 3/8 long
Tape over your bushing because fuck that smell! (with duct tape. That smell is literally cancer)
Now attatch the 3/4 to 1 in bushing in the end and screw it in.
This is the stock. cut 3/4 in PVC to however long you want, an elbow, than cut another length to rest your shoulder up against. Combine. possibly put a screw screw in if you want it to be extra sturdy
OPTIONAL : [k26] adapter
(anti kink mech and plate)
This piece you need if you're not using a K18 spring.
This lets you use smaller springs and prevents kinking. Reccomened if you have all other materials but not the K18 as it's not common or used in many other blasters.
You'll need duct tape, a 1-1/4 washer like used before, 2 inches of 1 in PVC, and the 1in to 3/4 bushing
configure all the pieces together like this. PVC segment to washer to bushing. Than tape it
Now your bushing is ready to put it into the end of your body tube.
Didn't put in the seal right? Well detatch the rear bushing AND lower reciever, remove the bolt and attatch lube the fuck out of it. Put grease through the slots, and than wipe off excess grease on the seal so you can slide the bolt back in the body tube.
guide the seal back in. When it comes to the slots, push the flaps of the ucup/skirt in and slide it in, shouldn't have much resistance, you don't want to tear the seal. Add more lube though the front of the bushing and you're good to go.
Add in the spring and attatch the stock along with the lower reciever. Boom. You got yourself a working primary, all you need is a hopper setup. A standard setup should suffice (12 in barrel, 5 dart hopper)
Go figure that out yourself. (displayed is my personal running a 14 in transitional .495-.527 alu barrel with a 6 dart hopper just cuz but I would reccomend a shorter barrel)
I have no fucking clue what this would be called. IDK, call it the practical innovated sear carbine?
Enough with the stupid names, if you build it like I did I don't care, it doesn't need a name, it's a different approach to a similar concept which is the sear carbine
most of the right side was flush. But because I built this all in my lap, I accidentally drilled too high making the catch connection point on the reciever. So I used deez nuts to help kinda secure it. The other screw is a trigger block to prevent from pullign the trigger all the way
SNAP Carbine size compraison. (Alfatroopers Mk2 heavily modded and repaired by me)
The SNAP is longer because the stock isn't removed, but it can be shorter since it has a shorter bolt than the Sear Carbine
However it is taller, which kinda feels weird at first.
Fits in a backpack great. Just the bolt handle is a bit akward but I tape my barrel and wye assembly on the left side so it's not just the charging handle jutting into something
less than 5 minutes to open up and reassemble while taking pictures using a multitool DX gave me. Quick spring change and maitnence.
Size comparison of a sear carbine to other blasters, in case you wanted to see
Overall I think this was a cool project and a great design. Was a bitch to make since I did this on the floor, just a dremel drill hacksaw and assorted bits, + cutting board and PVC but would've been LOVELY to have a damn table and proper vice that wasn't shit and spun around on an axis
Everyone should make one of these if you have the time since they're dead simple and shouldn't be fucked up. once Aeromech releases templates, you shouldn't have a damn struggle making any of these pieces. Hell, I copied an ESLT lower to make this,
You could probably take an ESLT lower and machine a catch to line up with one if you want, so you can print it out if you're lazy and make this in an hour and a half.
My Sear carbine hops well, idk sounds fine and is so cheap + simple + reliable, I should make more to hand out to noobs.
Seriously, make one and we can all have loaners and backup rifles. Everyone gets a rifle.
Hold the bolt, take your sharpie, check the small slot and use your sharpie to mark where the slots line up. Adjust the bolt up and down so your catch will catcha wether the bolt is more up or down
Cut a hole of cutting board that doesn't go to the edge of th seal but secure sits over the center. YOU CAN USE A DREMEL TO MAKE THIS, IT JUST WON'T LOOK PRETTY. Alternatively, but untested you can get a metal washer that's 1 in in diameter
Lower Reciever steps
Notice the skater tape on the black bolt, I would do this just cuz, tactics? not required but I had skater tape so why not.
Edited by Snoop Doggy doge, 02 October 2016 - 11:26 PM.