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Finished Advanced Sear Carbine writeup

sear carbine easy noob

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#1 Snoop Doggy doge

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 01:07 AM

godfuckingsamnit
Of course, of fucking course this crashed. I had to rewrite this damn thread. Anyway, this is my take on the sear carbine. I've had like 7 people ask me for this, and half were on NH from Aeromech's thread. Sorry to hijack your thread, but you're not even working on it. Some of this will look familiar, since it's from Chris's thread. Part of it is relevant to the post IMO.
 

IMG_9271.jpg
You'll be making one of these! Yes they can hop!
Read the whole writeup before you build one
This is text heavy, you don't have to read everything, but I highly reccomend it. Overall, I feel like I could replicate this in a few hours. Probably will take you 6. Less time than to write this whole fucking writeup.

I am not responsible for any damage or any actions you make following this guide. It is up to you to use common sense building and using this blaster. Wear eye protection and gloves, work in a ventilated space and don't point this at anyone outside of playing a game. 


Preface

Spoiler

My Build goals
Spoiler


WHAT YOU WILL NEED
Spoiler



STEPS

oh boy, now it's about time to start. About damn time. All steps will be BELOW the photo. Make sure everything is cut to length as displayed above. If you notice any discrepencies in photos, or slight differences, I'm making 3 of these blasters at the same time. 
Upper body tube steps

Spoiler

Lower Reciever steps
This assembly should be near damn impossible to break unless you print it. even than, pretty hard

Spoiler

Final steps
Spoiler



RESULTS
Spoiler

END THOUGHTS
Spoiler


Edited by Snoop Doggy doge, 02 October 2016 - 11:26 PM.

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#2 Snoop Doggy doge

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 01:14 AM

This comment is reserved.
Because Phil can do it.


But also because I'm going to add extras. (comfort mod, folding stock, extra cool shit to do)


First thing I reccomend. Either get some skater tape or really light sandpaper and put it on your charging handle. 10/10 tactics, can grip when hands are wet and it is raining, or if you got gloves on
IMG_9370.jpg
IMG_9371.jpg
I added some to my charging handle, on one of my carbines has grip tape on the side of the pistol grip to give some stippling. 

3D PRINTING FILES
Print the Upgrade trigger here (my fav)
and use this to print the lower reciever.
You need the 

-catch piece

-front handle piece

-main handle z print

and the trigger pieces if you're going to use an ESLT trigger instead of the Aeromech one. I prefer the Aeromech upgrade trigger,


Yes I know this isn't complete and looks like a mess, { but I spent more time writing all of this than Chris spent building his sear carbine. 
#shotsfired }
Don't worry, cool shit soon. 

 

USER WAS WARNED FOR FORGETTING WHOSE HOUSE HE'S IN 

FUCKING 1v1 ME AT APOC BITCH
(guess whose carbine kicked more ass)


Edited by Snoop Doggy doge, 02 October 2016 - 11:27 PM.

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#3 Aeromech

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 10:21 PM

Wonderful writeup. I work 7 to 5 most days, and then work out for 2 hours per day on top of that, so I am really beat when I get home, and it's a miracle I got this design out when I did.

 

This take is far superior to my original design BUT it breaks the design goals that I personally set out to achieve when I created the original blaster, namely, to be able to build it without having to order anything online. The spring does not count in my opinion, because if you plan on going to a war, you can ask in a NH or FB thread for someone to supply a [k26] spring when you get there. Remove three screws, throw a spring in, and add the screws back in. No "online ordering" has taken place, the K25s/26s are common enough that you can get one anywhere in the homemade scene, and the design itself is robust enough to handle a wide range of common springs. Back to the "no-online stuff"; the U cup seal and Nylon rod both must be ordered from an online vendor and are not simply "drop-in" like the aforementioned spring. i.e. more manufacturing operations are required to get these components in there and working correctly. You put down the superlative plunger seal (and normally I would too) but for whatever reason, it works. On my prototype, there was barely any creep in the bolt when testing the air seal, and the movement I did have was coming from the BUSHING! So the forward bushing seal wasn't 100%, but whatever the 1" PVC fit is with hardware store rubber washers must be pretty good. If it works, don't fix it. As for the charging handle, yes nylon is a million times as good as a wooden dowel. But it breaks the rules that I (arbitrarily) set for my design goals. A wooden dowel, perhaps reinforced with some steel rod (straight from the hardware store) would suffice for those that for whatever reason do not have access to McMaster. The whole point of the original was to make something with the hardware store accessibility of a SNAP, but without the rather negative experiences that I had with the three SNAPS that I built. So its a SNAP, but it isn't. That was always my goal. To say you've made this better than the non-McMaster one is almost trivial. When given unlimited resources OF COURSE you can make things better, but where's the FUN?!

 

EDIT: Also some more constructive criticism. On my design, the reason that the 1-1/2" PVC "half-pipes" that hold the receiver in place are offset by about 45 degrees is to be away from the charging handle. Take a look at your blaster, especially where the rear half pipe is. Imagine in the heat of a war, you're not thinking anymore, you go to prime back your bolt with all your might, get your hand real close to the receiver and slam it back... but what's this? Your hand is bleeding because the edge of the half-pipe is directly in the path of the bolt handle? Yup. That's my biggest criticism of your design but it's an easy fix and otherwise bravo it looks and I'm sure performs bodaciously.

 

If I haven't stated it yet, I love the writeup and the resulting blaster. But realize that someone without access to these tools can sub in the aforementioned parts and still have a competitive blaster without dealing with the hassles of online ordering parts. It was a completely arbitrary design goal because I don't know, I like to make things more difficult than they are. Good writeup. I expect to see ten of these at APOC.


Edited by Aeromech, 01 August 2016 - 11:05 PM.

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Watch my shitty videos

This is so ghetto but so awesome.


#4 Snoop Doggy doge

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 12:04 AM

awww shiet I got you to respond.
I love the constructive criticism and actually finsihed the upper and lower of 3 more of these. So there will be 4 maybe 5 at APOC because I'm running out of cutting board. The intent and goal of my design was to make one that, seemed less tacky for veteran builders and to do something with extra parts. Maybe your rainbow had some extra sliver nylon left over, you have another seal and everyone pretty much has these parts laying around so building it should be a ok. Also, because your a seal snob, you can get a skirt seal in there! I know you like your skirt seals but 5 ucups are the price of one, and this is for quality.

My whole thing with the, fuckit I'm getting online parts is that, fuckit dude, you gotta get a wye, may as well get some springs, a foot of nylon, a decent seal and get some shit at home depot. I'm assuming you're spending like 30$ for everything including shipping from Mcmaster, shouldn't break the bank. There's still a place for your variant, I just wanted to add some reliability. I also semi war tested it with a friend throughout a day of dicking around, nothing really happening.

I also didn't have any wood around but I had some extra nylon that I salvaged from Zachs broken rainbow. God what a fucking mess that was. As for what the challenge, I made this without a table or a vice bending over and drilling into my lap breaking a shit ton of safety procedures and giving myself cancer.
#hardcore. (seriously, space is tight in the city.) so you know, that was my hard part. I have a cut on my leg, hole in my palm, cuts everywhere, a burnt finger and plastic dust everywhere as of making 4 of these. 

Also, I was thinking about the last part. I could move the half piped out of the way, but I would just reccomend wearing gloves with these, and will be providing them as loaners when using them because that can be an issue. What I did to kinda circumvent that is sand the fuck out of the sharper edges. Hopefully no ouchies, I am going to redesign these after APOC to be ambidextrious and modular (pump action yo) and do some more experimenting, like with speedholes on the ramp that are small to cut down weight even further. I also extended the charging handle on the newer ones so hopefully people won't grab it so close but further out where the texturing is. Oh yea, I'm putting skater tape on the bolt to show where to grab. 

In the end, I'm happy I found a way to stick my dick in your designs, and I will definitely adress the half clamp thing in the later revisions, maybe like 2.0.
Maybe we can expand this out as far as the SNAP
>inb4 carbine criticisms 

Writeup to be finished by wednesday. I'm going out tommorow so I can't slave away building writing and taking pics yet. Currently at 5 hours and 40 minutes of writing and only halfway done. *le sigh*
Fucking Phil, make it so I can upload more than 10 photos. I make mah shit detailed son


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#5 Snoop Doggy doge

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 10:54 PM

Bumping this because first I finished it,

Second it was war tested heavily at APOC. A lot of people tried it, I never had to run it but I ran it the day after with a shotgun tubed barrel and it was pretty cool. Couldn't find a chrony but it was very fun. Report came back that it was a noticabley lower powered, like a higher end ESLT but also the bolt texturing was very aggresive and required gloves. Everyone enjoyed it and it was fun, "it was a front line assault gun, kinda eh and was like the British Sten" from someones plus one. I can kinda agree and see that. I know it wasn't a very competive blaster but it was a fun blaster and easy as a loaner. Hell, maybe you could use these in superstock too as they did fire rockets decently. (throw on like a 4 in CPVC barrel and wrap some etape to give more of a seal on the rocket) 

Kinda glad I made this, waiting for ESLT 1.7 blue prints to attatch the lower reciever parts. Or for Chris to release his files or something


Edited by CaptainSlug, 27 August 2016 - 10:16 AM.

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