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Rainbow Pistol Write Up

homemade writeup rainbow pistol spring

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#26 Naturalman7

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 10:53 PM

You are correct, I sometimes use three - it gives a great peace of mind. However, I've found the pivoting with two is negligible - especially if the bushing is wrapped enough. The added tape keeps the bushing stable - even without screws sometimes. I haven't seen orange or white e-tape before, intriguing.

The threads in the knob are metal. Threading in Delrin rods have been known to rip out before.
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#27 Langley

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 11:46 PM

Thread locker would help to keep from unscrewing but my concern is being able to get a good grip on it. Then in the realm of stripping threads, I feel the ball would be of more concern than the plunger rod itself.


Can you get thread locker for plastics? My locktite bottle says that it's only for use with metals. I'm assuming there's some nasty solvents in there or something.
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#28 archangel24

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:56 AM

Can you get thread locker for plastics? My locktite bottle says that it's only for use with metals. I'm assuming there's some nasty solvents in there or something.

Assure 425, can be found on amazon.
No More Leaks, not necessarily for this but would be interesting to look into for other uses in nerf.
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#29 Meaker VI

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 12:33 PM

Can you get thread locker for plastics? My locktite bottle says that it's only for use with metals. I'm assuming there's some nasty solvents in there or something.


Superglue works from what I hear, but that'd adhere to the plastic.

Whoever was talking about wood earlier - you can get wood in whatever thickness you please. It's just the cheap construction stuff we usually use labeled '1x', '2x', etc. that is nominally labeled - that is, it's wood that was 1" thick before they planed 1/4 off of it (For reference: take 1/4" off of 1x sizes for 3/4" actual, 1/2" off of 2x-6x for 1-1/2" to 5-1/2", and 3/4" off anything larger). If you get nicer wood (usually in the mill-work section), it's possible to get boards exactly 1" thick and it's always possible to get it rough and trim it/plane to size or glue boards together and trim the glued-up board to size. As always, the best bet is to measure first see if it's something you want.

Not sure what the obsession is with these knob/disc handles, they seem like they'd be uncomfortable to me. A bell-knob might be ok, but any of those are going to be heavier than the standard ring or T, which I like just fine and are easily made/attached securely.
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#30 Naturalman7

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 01:10 PM

I was mostly worried about the knob unscrewing because it would be handled a lot. The screw and knob threads are both metal. I knew about the wood dimensions, but it's also about what is easily and readily available at my local store in the wood section, there are only a few options.

Just tighten the screw into the Delrin well and apply the thread tightener on the knob. The option of tightening the screw super tight isn't as plausible as tightening it into the knob as it is into the Delrin.

I think Ryan has plenty of info and speculation to go off of now.
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#31 snakerbot

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 07:28 PM

Regarding all the wood thickness talk, deck planking or stair tread (also called 5/4 x N) is actually 1 inch thick. Something like this.

Another thing: Why does everyone use machine screws for attaching wooden handles? Surely actual wood screws work better, right?
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#32 Naturalman7

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 07:39 PM

Regarding all the wood thickness talk, deck planking or stair tread (also called 5/4 x N) is actually 1 inch thick. Something like this.

Another thing: Why does everyone use machine screws for attaching wooden handles? Surely actual wood screws work better, right?


Interesting.

The answer may be opinion based, but for the application, machine screws seem to work just as well - just as secure. Perhaps it's because machine screws are more multipurpose and readily available. Using 1/2" machine screws for the catch means you'll have left over screws for the handle, too. I assume it would be a lot simpler to find 1/2" round head machine screws rather than 1/2" round head wood screws also. But I don't know. I just find it simpler to use the same screws for everything if they work.

Wood screws are also pointy, and dangerous.

Machine screwed handles are plenty sturdy.
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#33 Meaker VI

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:32 AM

The answer may be opinion based, but for the application, machine screws seem to work just as well - just as secure. Perhaps it's because machine screws are more multipurpose and readily available. Using 1/2" machine screws for the catch means you'll have left over screws for the handle, too. I assume it would be a lot simpler to find 1/2" round head machine screws rather than 1/2" round head wood screws also. But I don't know. I just find it simpler to use the same screws for everything if they work....


I'm confused- do you really mean machine screws, which usually have very fine threading and wouldn't hold beans in wood; or metal screws, which are a coarser thread but are usually also pointy?

This is a machine screw:
Posted Image

This is (my favorite variety of) metal screw:
Posted Image

Metal screws come in the widest variety of head-types, my favorite being the above hex-head since you can use a wrench on them and the drivers for them never slip. Wood and drywall are nearly always bugle-head. While I only use machine screws with their appropriate nut, I'll use metal screws on wood if it makes sense to do so. Usually though, I'm attaching a handle and I need longer screws, so I use the long wood screws I have by the box.
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#34 Naturalman7

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:48 AM

Yes, I do mean #6-32 machine screws. I know the difference between different screws are and I know that there are a wide variety of head options, but for this application, machine screws work just fine. I've never done test trying to deliberately pull or rip the handle off, but it has held up to dropping and normal blaster wear.

Are wood screws more expensive than machine screws?
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#35 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 12:02 PM

Yes, I do mean #6-32 machine screws. I know the difference between different screws are and I know that there are a wide variety of head options, but for this application, machine screws work just fine. I've never done test trying to deliberately pull or rip the handle off, but it has held up to dropping and normal blaster wear.

Are wood screws more expensive than machine screws?

They're cheaper, easier to install, and hold in wood better.

There's really no reason to not be using wood screws to hold in your handles.
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#36 Naturalman7

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 12:17 PM

Alright. I'll add this information to the OP and other write-ups.
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#37 MonkeyMeister

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 02:58 PM

I am thinking of making this and I was curious to what ketch spring you would use? your right-up does not say what kind. 


Edited by MonkeyMeister, 27 February 2016 - 02:59 PM.

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