Rainbow Pistol Write Up
#26
Posted 16 July 2014 - 10:53 PM
The threads in the knob are metal. Threading in Delrin rods have been known to rip out before.
#27
Posted 16 July 2014 - 11:46 PM
Thread locker would help to keep from unscrewing but my concern is being able to get a good grip on it. Then in the realm of stripping threads, I feel the ball would be of more concern than the plunger rod itself.
Can you get thread locker for plastics? My locktite bottle says that it's only for use with metals. I'm assuming there's some nasty solvents in there or something.
You can poop in my toilet anytime champ.
2016 Nerf War Schedule
Bless you, my son. Now recite 3 New Members Guides and 5 Code of Conducts for your sins.
#28
Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:56 AM
Assure 425, can be found on amazon.Can you get thread locker for plastics? My locktite bottle says that it's only for use with metals. I'm assuming there's some nasty solvents in there or something.
No More Leaks, not necessarily for this but would be interesting to look into for other uses in nerf.
I would much perfer a game that's free of KY. I like it rough. Right, Vacc?
"She went all Ghetto Fab on you."
#29
Posted 17 July 2014 - 12:33 PM
Can you get thread locker for plastics? My locktite bottle says that it's only for use with metals. I'm assuming there's some nasty solvents in there or something.
Superglue works from what I hear, but that'd adhere to the plastic.
Whoever was talking about wood earlier - you can get wood in whatever thickness you please. It's just the cheap construction stuff we usually use labeled '1x', '2x', etc. that is nominally labeled - that is, it's wood that was 1" thick before they planed 1/4 off of it (For reference: take 1/4" off of 1x sizes for 3/4" actual, 1/2" off of 2x-6x for 1-1/2" to 5-1/2", and 3/4" off anything larger). If you get nicer wood (usually in the mill-work section), it's possible to get boards exactly 1" thick and it's always possible to get it rough and trim it/plane to size or glue boards together and trim the glued-up board to size. As always, the best bet is to measure first see if it's something you want.
Not sure what the obsession is with these knob/disc handles, they seem like they'd be uncomfortable to me. A bell-knob might be ok, but any of those are going to be heavier than the standard ring or T, which I like just fine and are easily made/attached securely.
#30
Posted 17 July 2014 - 01:10 PM
Just tighten the screw into the Delrin well and apply the thread tightener on the knob. The option of tightening the screw super tight isn't as plausible as tightening it into the knob as it is into the Delrin.
I think Ryan has plenty of info and speculation to go off of now.
#32
Posted 17 July 2014 - 07:39 PM
Regarding all the wood thickness talk, deck planking or stair tread (also called 5/4 x N) is actually 1 inch thick. Something like this.
Another thing: Why does everyone use machine screws for attaching wooden handles? Surely actual wood screws work better, right?
Interesting.
The answer may be opinion based, but for the application, machine screws seem to work just as well - just as secure. Perhaps it's because machine screws are more multipurpose and readily available. Using 1/2" machine screws for the catch means you'll have left over screws for the handle, too. I assume it would be a lot simpler to find 1/2" round head machine screws rather than 1/2" round head wood screws also. But I don't know. I just find it simpler to use the same screws for everything if they work.
Wood screws are also pointy, and dangerous.
Machine screwed handles are plenty sturdy.
#33
Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:32 AM
The answer may be opinion based, but for the application, machine screws seem to work just as well - just as secure. Perhaps it's because machine screws are more multipurpose and readily available. Using 1/2" machine screws for the catch means you'll have left over screws for the handle, too. I assume it would be a lot simpler to find 1/2" round head machine screws rather than 1/2" round head wood screws also. But I don't know. I just find it simpler to use the same screws for everything if they work....
I'm confused- do you really mean machine screws, which usually have very fine threading and wouldn't hold beans in wood; or metal screws, which are a coarser thread but are usually also pointy?
This is a machine screw:
This is (my favorite variety of) metal screw:
Metal screws come in the widest variety of head-types, my favorite being the above hex-head since you can use a wrench on them and the drivers for them never slip. Wood and drywall are nearly always bugle-head. While I only use machine screws with their appropriate nut, I'll use metal screws on wood if it makes sense to do so. Usually though, I'm attaching a handle and I need longer screws, so I use the long wood screws I have by the box.
#34
Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:48 AM
Are wood screws more expensive than machine screws?
#35
Posted 18 July 2014 - 12:02 PM
They're cheaper, easier to install, and hold in wood better.Yes, I do mean #6-32 machine screws. I know the difference between different screws are and I know that there are a wide variety of head options, but for this application, machine screws work just fine. I've never done test trying to deliberately pull or rip the handle off, but it has held up to dropping and normal blaster wear.
Are wood screws more expensive than machine screws?
There's really no reason to not be using wood screws to hold in your handles.
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
#36
Posted 18 July 2014 - 12:17 PM
#37
Posted 27 February 2016 - 02:58 PM
I am thinking of making this and I was curious to what ketch spring you would use? your right-up does not say what kind.
Edited by MonkeyMeister, 27 February 2016 - 02:59 PM.
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: homemade, writeup, rainbow, pistol, spring
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