Typically, LiPo batteries are more expensive than any other type, and require a more expensive and singularly useful charger than any other type. At least with NiMH batteries, you can use them in your television remote and wireless mouse. All he is saying is that he doesn't see the need for his purposes. For new people buying one type of battery to use in all of their blasters? Sure, LiPos make sense. If you already have Li-Ion batteries, like Trustfires, then use them. The information I found within the independent reviews of Trustfires on DX indicated that the over current protection would allow 4A draw through full discharge. That's probably fine.
You'll notice that I gave both.
I assume you mean voltages while measuring these currents. The stock Barricade measures 4.65v at the batteries with the switch off, drops to 4.0v and climbs back up to about 4.4v at full speed. The modded unit shows 4.75v with the switch off (I don't know about the discrepancy, that's weird), drops to 3.05v while accelerating, and comes back up to 4.25 while running full speed.
I suppose it is possible, but not in the milliseconds that it takes for my DMM to read. Also, is this the chart you are referring to?
Yes, that's one chart I saw. It shows 4.93A for 5V there, but on another site, it said it was 4.5V. Motor specs are pretty hard to find on the internet haha.
Stall current happens pretty quick, I think. I know you measured peak current draw, but I don't know if a multimeter can display it quickly enough without averaging out the samples.
I just work out the rough math for stall current based on current charts and increasing voltage (typical Tamiya specs are at 2.4V).
The voltmeter I put into my gun is pretty crude, but with a battery measured at 4.2V out of circuit, it shows a I think 3.6V when rapid firing, and just 3.9V when just running or after one or two shots. If I press the acceleration button with no clip, it reads 4.1V still.
Just to give you my experience with the LiPo.
Those sound like Ponies. Also, ridiculous requirements. Maybe that's a little much?
The Plasma Dashes don't sound any louder than an overvolted Rayven at 16V, I think. YMMV.
Also current requirements are pretty typical, for more powered up motors.
That said, I think the Plasma Dashes actually run too hot, temperature wise, for use in an plastic enclosure like this haha.
The Mach Dashes I got seem much more manageable, and are pretty close to the Hyper Dash 2s in terms of power requirements.
I am using standard alkaline AA batteries (Rayovac) rated at 1.5v, just do dispel whatever you are trying to cook up here.
How long do the motors take to spin up or recover on the Alkaline?
Not trying to "cook up" anything here. I want an awesome gun as much as you guys haha. I just want consistent results to decide for myself. I'm hearing different ranges with essentially the same motors in a similar setup. There shouldn't be a 40 foot difference in the two sets of results. Just saying.
NiMH is capable of a little more current then alkalines but the biggest difference is that NiMH will have a longer charge life at the high amperage draw then the alkalines will.
You got 70-80ft ptg using what? Stock motors on stock voltage? Trustfires? Something else? I only got 60ft on stock motors and AAs.
The problem with the Tamiya Dash series of motors is that they're 3v motors. Any 3v motor will require twice as much amperage to do the same work as a 6v motor. The Dash motors are built for that kind of amperage of course but as you already know you'll have to use something other then AAs or Trustfires to supply that current.
Just saw this post.
70-80 feet using Tamiyas and a LiPo, like I said in the thread I have which you posted in before haha. Sorry for assuming it would still be fresh in your memory, that was my mistake.
I don't think the Stryfe can do 60 feet at stock. I didn't test mine with the stock setup for long, but that seems to be the average range of one overvolted to 12V, based on other tests I have seen conducted.
Are you actually measuring? Or just guessing? I thought mine was hitting 90, but upon measurement, it was more like 80 at peak distance, with high 60s and 70s on average.
Also, I brought up the current thing because based on the specs, like in the chart posted by Draconis, current draw is reaching a level that could potentially burn out the stock switches, even with your voltage setup. It's just a word of warning.
Edited by azrael, 05 February 2013 - 07:56 PM.