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Now with OPRV update!

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#26 Whisper101



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Posted 29 August 2011 - 10:52 PM

You bet I did :)

Do you find it at all difficult to fire the tank at 60PSI? Do you think a hindered trigger pull is hurting your ranges?

Sorry? What's hindered about the trigger pull? It's extremely easy to fire at 60 PSI and even a bit higher.
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#27 KaneTheMediocre


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Posted 04 September 2011 - 04:57 AM

@ roboman: it was actually lying on the side of the tubing before I took the picture. It's not usually all that srucnched up and kinky.

@ricochet:7/8" long, 1/4" dia., 1/32" wire dia. It's a pretty strong spring.

@Zorn: Wouldn't that make the air transfer from the main tnak to the pVAT alot slower? Maybe I'm not following...

@Kane: I think curly explained it pretty well. In fact, he's the one that brought the placement matter to my attention. I have the pSI guage there, so for me, I just don't go over 60 PSI. The OPV leaks when the button on ricochet's valve is depressed because that opens the line for air from the main tank to flow into the PVAT. Lets say there is 60 pSI of compressed air in the main tank. That tank is very large compared to the PVAT, so when you open the ricochet valve, all the air in the main tank tries to force itself into the PVAT. 60 PSI in the big tank however translates to a much higher psi in the much smaller PVAT. lets say the main tank is trying to force in what translates to 110 psi in the PVAT, but is only 60 PSI in the main tank, while the OPV is set at about 50 PSI. There is your bleed. The trick is just to hold the button down for a very short period of time and let the excess bleed out. It does so pretty quickly.

It takes between 3 and 5 pumps to fill the PVAT, depending on what pressure you want. i don't quite understand the second part. You dont have to pump after each shot. The homemade pump is only for when you've exhausted your supply of air in the main tank. Then you switch OFF the main tank selection and use the homemade pump to pressurize the PVAT directly.

This part confuses me the most. Can you not use the homemade pump to fill the main tank? I don't see why you'd limit yourself to requiring the air compressor, which pretty much means not using it at regulated wars.

Why is all of the main tank trying to force itself into the PVAT? If you simply open a connection between them, then the air will simply distribute itself between the main tank and the pvat, equalizing pressure, size isn't relevant. Unless the PVAT was already pressurized, this will actually reduce the pressure slightly from the level of the main tank, the pressure drop being related to the ratio of the volumes of the tanks, and how much air is already in the firing tank.

Furthermore, why are we setting the opv at 50, and expecting the blaster to operate at 60, let alone 110? If the supply tank is kept at a safe pressure, the firing tank can't exceed that pressure without some other energy input. Furthermore, you've defeated the whole bomb-prevention aspect of the opv by not doing anything to keep the main tank from exceeding the OPV pressure, other than promising us that you won't go past that pressure.
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#28 Whisper101



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Posted 04 September 2011 - 07:33 PM

You can use a homemade pump to fill the tnak. It just takes a very very long time. An alternative would be to buy a $20 compressor that runs off the jack in your car...

Maybe I have the OPV and the main tank set to different pressures. You are saying that I should not have bleeding if the main tabnk is pumped to 60 PSI and the OPV is set to 60 PSI as well?

Those were hypothetical numbers, not hard facts. The main tank is always kept at 60 PSI, and yes, I realize that the main tank really does need a way to limit pressure. WOuld a regulator, where I can pump up and then manually let air out do the trick?
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#29 nerfnut23



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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:47 PM

WOuld a regulator, where I can pump up and then manually let air out do the trick?

Another way is using a bike valve from an old inner tube, and a pressure gauge for a car tire, quick, easy and nonobtrusive.
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