6 replies to this topic

[Blue]

I'm not sure if no one has posted a repair of the priming rod to the PAS or if I just haven't found it; anyways here are my fixes. Everything is post mod, but it's pretty simple.
What you will need:
Some wire coathanger
Superglue
Epoxy paste or some other strong adhesive that you can sand

To start with, goop a vortex disc to the plunger head. The plastic part fits PERFECT in the brown funnel part (as long as it is not filled in) and I think it might even help the seal a little. Anyways, I did this and I like it.


Now, plunger rod repair. Mine was snapped right where the bar connects to the catch part. It happened because of a bubble in the plastic. To start with, dremel or drill a hole in either side of the broken pieces. Take your piece of coat hanger and cut it so it can fit in the holes, then superglue the coat hanger bit and the two pieces together. Cover everything in epoxy paste, but you will need to poke around a bit with a toothpick as it dries so that the epoxy doesn't go in the grooves that align the rod in the shell. I coated the inside of the shell with some silicone grease and pressed the drying epoxy parts in the shell to help mold it after it had cured for around half an hour. Once it is cured, sand everything nice and smooth. I used a dremel on the epoxy that was on the rod, because it wasn't fitting through the brown piece.



Now to the priming bar! As you probably can guess, it snaps at the elbow because it is terribly designed to have the least support at the point that takes the most stress. Take the priming nub that popped off and dremel/drill a groove through it. Pretend that the two pieces are together in your mind or whatever, then drill/dremel a hole in the rest of the bar where the groove would continue to go through. Don't worry about making straight or clean cuts, just don't dremel a too much away because you need to leave enough surface area to superglue these two pieces together.

Now, drill a small hole up through the nub. Cut a 90 deg piece of wire (I used the trigger thingy from a UMB, coat hanger would work too) to fit in these new spots made. The pic is from before being glued, but just superglue the two pieces of plastic together and get some superglue on the metal too.

Cover it all in plastic specific putty and then sand it to the stock size; I also added a piece of brass to the bend like so many others have done before.


I've fired the pas about 50 times with the stock spring and it has been fine, no signs of stress at all.

Edited by Blue, 20 November 2011 - 12:33 AM.

[gehaga]

The vortex disk is genius, simply genius my friend.

Edited by gehaga, 05 November 2011 - 08:55 PM.

[iknowmy3tables]

you might want to include the full name of the blaster you are modding: Ertl Pump action shotgun in your post, no just your n00bs to understand, but so other people can find your repair post

also good write up

[chavez guy]

'iknowmy3tables', on 07 Nov 2011 - 12:52 AM, said:

you might want to include the full name of the blaster you are modding: Ertl Pump action shotgun in your post, no just your n00bs to understand, but so other people can find your repair post

also good write up

Dude, this guy runs the modification directory. Chances are he is going to stick this in there (if he hasn't already) for everyone to find.

[Blue]

I updated the mod directory about once a month.
Thanks for the comments.

In related news, the two front screw ports that hold the orange ball part in place are snapped off. I tried supergluing them back together but it didn't hold. I'm going to try cannibalizing a different Nerf shell for the screw ports but I'm unsure how I would properly attach them to the PAS, so helpful tips or suggestions are appreciated.

[Curly]

While I'm talking out my ass entirely, I can see a couple solutions. Like people do when the front and rear sights break, drill out the screw port and use a bolt with appropriate hardware to secure it. In the short-term you could also drill holes along the broken area and zip-tie it together until you find a permanent solution. Adding PVC around the coupler area that sits up against the shell is strongly recommended to add extra support where the ball holder and it's screws should be.

[Blue]

I decided to just replace the screw ports with Nerf ones (I used some from a first generation NF, so they should be as strong as you can get)
This little guide will help you if you have screw ports that look like this:


Step 1:
Cut out your screw ports from your donor. Don't damage them too much, you need them to be circular.


Step 2:
Start the drilling, pic is of mid drilling. Keep going until you reach the 7/32 bit (or whatever your screw ports fit snugly into)


Step 3:
Insert screw ports.



Step 4:
Put superglue on the screw ports, then screw them shut. This will make the screw ports perfectly aligned and the right length. Add putty around them and screw them shut again with the ball shooter (grease it so it doesn't get stuck). This will make a mold.


Step 5:
Trim the excess.


Notes:
I used this method to repair a snapped catch bar thing on a HandCannon (That little well that the metal bar and catch rotate on) before and it worked great. Just drill out the screw hole part a bit until it can fit the metal bar.

EDIT:
Alternative method suggested by Roboman, use a Circular Aluminum Standoff instead of Nerf plastic and use machine screws. I've been told they are commonly available at hardware stores and online. Picture below is of a hex one:

Edited by Blue, 20 November 2011 - 12:43 AM.