To start, take out the air restrictors and the stock barrels, until you are left with this. Easiest way to do this is put it in boiling water for 5-10 seconds. Everything falls apart.
Now take apart the two halves of the turret by securing the end cap that holds the turret together in a vice and pull it off. You'll be left with this.
Next thing to do is make a bunch of holes. I highly recommend using a drill press if you have access to one. Makes your life so much easier. I wouldn't attempt this with a hand drill. First get the bottom half of the turret.
Drill a 3/8" hole where the air actually come through the turret. This will increase your airflow. Drill the hole as far away from the center post in the turret as possible. Drill another 3/8" hole at the top of the turret. This hole is really irrelevant, but it makes it easier putting on the washer later. The other two holes, where you would rear-load darts, drill those to 1/2" or 9/16" depending on the diameter of your darts. Also make sure you cut off the stock connection from the turret to the airtank. We will replace this later.
Now it's time to get out your rubber washers. You'll need two washers 1/16" thick, doesn't really matter what size. I guess it would be possible, and easier to use just one 1/8" thick rubber washer, but whatever. Glue the pieces of rubber to the front half of the back of turret. Make sure the rubber washers don't interfere with the rotation mechanism. Just to clarify, you'll have two 1/16" on top of each other, or one that's 1/8" thick.
Now to the front half of the turret.
Drill out the holes so they are the diameter of your barrel material. I drilled mine to 9/16" since I'm using PETG. Now this picture is wrong, as this was from my first attempt, but hopefully you'll get the picture.
Make sure your barrels come up just before the rotation mechanism. In this picture they are slightly above it, which fucked up the rotation when I tried to put it back together. Take your other half of the turret and check to see if the rotation mechanism rotates freely, and if the barrels come up flush with the rubber washer. Solvent weld your barrels in place.
Now you can either use hot glue or epoxy putty in this next step. Hot glue was a better choice in this case because sanding down the epoxy putty is a bitch. Make sure the hot glue/e-putty is flush with the barrels. Sand/cut down the excess e-putty/hot glue.
Now, if you're a good modder, you'll get it on your first try. It took me two attempts to get a good seal on the barrels. Although with my dart-barrel fit in PETG, a perfect seal isn't necessary. A pretty loose dart-barrel fit works the best.
Now the last order of business is to make a new connection from the turret to the tank. Use something that has a relatively large inside diameter (better airflow), but small as possible OD. PETG works well. I used a piece of the stock barrel from a firefly turret. 5/8" brass would be my other choice.
And now you're done. You'll now have 2k that is just as powerful as a 1500. Right now I'm getting close to singled 2k ranges, with 12" barrels. Cut some slots in your 2k shell to allow rear-loading.
Enjoy.
