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Rearloading 2k Turrets

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#1 Ryan201821

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 04:35 PM

Probably the hardest turret to make rear-loading because of such tight tolerances. But that doesn't mean it's impossible.

To start, take out the air restrictors and the stock barrels, until you are left with this. Easiest way to do this is put it in boiling water for 5-10 seconds. Everything falls apart.

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Now take apart the two halves of the turret by securing the end cap that holds the turret together in a vice and pull it off. You'll be left with this.

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Next thing to do is make a bunch of holes. I highly recommend using a drill press if you have access to one. Makes your life so much easier. I wouldn't attempt this with a hand drill. First get the bottom half of the turret.

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Drill a 3/8" hole where the air actually come through the turret. This will increase your airflow. Drill the hole as far away from the center post in the turret as possible. Drill another 3/8" hole at the top of the turret. This hole is really irrelevant, but it makes it easier putting on the washer later. The other two holes, where you would rear-load darts, drill those to 1/2" or 9/16" depending on the diameter of your darts. Also make sure you cut off the stock connection from the turret to the airtank. We will replace this later.

Now it's time to get out your rubber washers. You'll need two washers 1/16" thick, doesn't really matter what size. I guess it would be possible, and easier to use just one 1/8" thick rubber washer, but whatever. Glue the pieces of rubber to the front half of the back of turret. Make sure the rubber washers don't interfere with the rotation mechanism. Just to clarify, you'll have two 1/16" on top of each other, or one that's 1/8" thick.

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Now to the front half of the turret.

Drill out the holes so they are the diameter of your barrel material. I drilled mine to 9/16" since I'm using PETG. Now this picture is wrong, as this was from my first attempt, but hopefully you'll get the picture.

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Make sure your barrels come up just before the rotation mechanism. In this picture they are slightly above it, which fucked up the rotation when I tried to put it back together. Take your other half of the turret and check to see if the rotation mechanism rotates freely, and if the barrels come up flush with the rubber washer. Solvent weld your barrels in place.

Now you can either use hot glue or epoxy putty in this next step. Hot glue was a better choice in this case because sanding down the epoxy putty is a bitch. Make sure the hot glue/e-putty is flush with the barrels. Sand/cut down the excess e-putty/hot glue.

Now, if you're a good modder, you'll get it on your first try. It took me two attempts to get a good seal on the barrels. Although with my dart-barrel fit in PETG, a perfect seal isn't necessary. A pretty loose dart-barrel fit works the best.

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Now the last order of business is to make a new connection from the turret to the tank. Use something that has a relatively large inside diameter (better airflow), but small as possible OD. PETG works well. I used a piece of the stock barrel from a firefly turret. 5/8" brass would be my other choice.

And now you're done. You'll now have 2k that is just as powerful as a 1500. Right now I'm getting close to singled 2k ranges, with 12" barrels. Cut some slots in your 2k shell to allow rear-loading.

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Enjoy.
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#2 Seven7h Man

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:32 PM

I love you.
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#3 LoneNerfer

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:33 PM

Great job unfortunately I only have a hand drill to use but I never thought that this could be done because of the at2k's turret size.
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#4 Homestarune

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 06:17 PM

Leave it to McNumbers to make the first gay AT2K. Great work once again. I may eventually get around to doing this.
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#5 Samzilla

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 07:41 PM

Wow! Now newer nerfers who have 2ks will be able to compete with guys with 1.5ks and with your 3k maybe the price of 1.5ks will go down now (but they still are more comfortable.
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#6 Banshee

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 08:31 PM

Can you show us how you install this into an AT2K and rear load it, I'd like to see that!
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#7 TantumBull

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 08:33 PM

Wow! Now newer nerfers who have 2ks will be able to compete with guys with 1.5ks and with your 3k maybe the price of 1.5ks will go down now (but they still are more comfortable.

For the record, you don't need to make your 2k rear-loading to get 1.5k ranges. Widening the turret holes to the diameter of the sealing surface of the valve will have the same effect.

Ryan: Nice, I honestly never thought anyone would make the 2k rear-loading because of how limited you are by space. Props. I'd like to see the shell that this turret goes to.

You seem to be on a rear-loading roll! (I'm not saying you're gay)
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#8 Ryan201821

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Posted 21 October 2009 - 12:45 AM

I have one more thing I am working on currently that I'm going to finish. This 2k turret is for another application. It's not actually going into a 2k. But I just wanted to show everyone it is possible. I want to do a couple more to see if different materials and methods will work also, or even better.
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#9 Samzilla

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Posted 21 October 2009 - 07:14 PM

When you drill rearloading holes on the side doesn't it take out those two tabs on the side that hold the back plate of the turret while you spin?
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#10 Lt Stefan

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Posted 21 October 2009 - 10:25 PM

Couldn't you cut a polycarb "spacer," if you will, in place of the hot glue so the washers seal with a perfectly flat, smooth surface?
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#11 Ryan201821

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Posted 21 October 2009 - 11:15 PM

No, a portion of the tab is still there to keep it in place.

You could make a spacer but it's much easier using this method.
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#12 ggk

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 11:22 AM

Nice job. My question is for the 9/16" holes what type of bit did you use to drill them?
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#13 Lt Stefan

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 02:52 PM

Nice job. My question is for the 9/16" holes what type of bit did you use to drill them?


A 9/16" one?
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#14 Nerf Bros

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 03:49 PM

Nice job. My question is for the 9/16" holes what type of bit did you use to drill them?


A 9/16" one?


I think he's wondering weather he should us a spade or twist type drill bit. I'd recommend a spade type, it be nearly impossible to find a bit that bit that would fit your chuck.
I was thinking about doing this, but was too lazy and knew I'd mess up. But now that ryan's done it we all can approach it with confidence.
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#15 wingd man

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 05:52 PM

Actually, no. I would recommend a regular bit if you can afford it and/or don't already have a spade. They fit okay, they just cost like $20.
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#16 Liam

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Posted 24 October 2009 - 09:54 PM

I, like a few others, are curious to how this will work installed in a 2k. However, awesome job, never even considered making 2k turrets rear loaded.
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#17 Lt Stefan

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 10:44 PM

A 9/16" twist bit is $14 at HD. However your drill needs a half inch chuck.
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