Lately I've been noticing a bunch of chinese ebay sellers with white FBR that they sell as 'Wedding foam'.
Has anyone had any experience with this stuff? Is it any good?

I ordered some out of curiosity, I was planing to stretch it if it was nice foam. Although the foam is pretty nice it will not stretch at all. But it makes perfect larami darts for supermaxx blasters. I used all of it to make darts for all my larami blasters and they shoot grate out of stock supermaxx blasters.

That company that is selling the green foam doesn't seem to want to answer me, I found that exact site about a month ago and have been emailing them once a week with no response. I sent them a order for 1000 rods in yellow and 1000 in red and they didn't even answer that. They didn't take my money or anything, they just didn't answer the order email.

Hi,  My son tells me that he somehow lost ALL the shell screws for his "Magnus".  Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement set, or if not, what size and type of screws are used by the magnus, please?

 

He has a learning disability and is quite upset.  Any help would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Brsd1961

 

#4 sheet metal screws fit in some blasters. Iv never used them on a magnus but its worth a try if you cant find any. 

Dont mean to point out the obvious but why not just get your own darts? 

If anyone one wants to have a war or is having a war let me know. I have posted twice to try and get a war going with no luck. I live in mississauga and I know of at least 4 places that would work. they are not busy at all. Most of the time there is no one there. Also there is a airsoft place that is willing to have us come and a place that does dart tag wars for kids said if we get enough people they will let us have the place for a wile. also I have contacted the schools in my area that I used to go to and they said it was ok as long as nothing is broken and we do not leave a mess. My old high school has a football field 2 parking lots, a small area with trees and bushes as well as alot of portables. That would be a grate place to play. There is a park right behind it also. We wont get kicked out, I have played airsoft there before and no one said anything. Yes I am aware that was dumb unsafe and irresponsible. I, like most was young and stupid at one point. There are also 4 other schools within a 15 minute drive of my old high school that would be pretty good to play at as well. If anyone wants to know where they are I can post all the locations. The last place I had in mind is a huge field that is off of the highway. It is far enough away to not be able to hit cars. I play airsoft there sometimes and police have only come twice and both times they where just there to make sure we were being careful had eye ware on and were watching out for others. I am more then wiling to pick anyone up if they need a ride or if the war is some where else car pooling in my car is fine too.

I would want to get a war going with you because I live only 20 mins away from Missisauga (I'm in Oakville) but on one condition: there are no age minimums because I'm quite young.

grate! like I said I have more then enough blasters to go around and enough foam for everyone as well. just get your parent or guardian to drop you off and sine a waver to relieve everyone involved any legal responsibly if you get hurt. Don't let that scare you away, you will most likely not get hurt, it is just for worst case scenario situations, i don't feel like getting sued by someones emotional parents. If I ever get enough people to have a war everyone will sine one, so don't feel singed out because you are younger. I have been trying to get a war going for this month but finding a indoor space has been very difficult so we might have to wait until the weather is nice. I will be posting all the information about the war in april soon so people will have a chance to get ready.

Are ACC darts aloud? They have a very soft tip and preform better then elite darts. Koosh darts would also be a good alternative. If elite suction cup darts are aloud you could probably get away with knock off suction cup darts. Here is a few links, hope this helps 

 

http://www.ebay.ca/i...JYAAOSwLVZV2nA7

 

http://www.ebay.ca/i...N4AAOSw5VFWJvog

 

http://www.ebay.ca/i...GoAAOSw8-tWbIRq

Use the word "hole" while searching darts on eBay (i.e. "nerf dart hole") and look for entrees showing "with hole" or "w/ hole". This should get you many colors of the *berry variations. I haven't put this to the test though, so I'm not sure what the final product that arrives is like, but you shouldn't get FVJ's. Check the photos to be sure.

Alternatively, listen to this guy ^. The darts he listed perform far better and fly straighter. Make sure you replace "ebay.ca" to "ebay.com" if you're in the U.S.

 

Additionally, the following search terms are helpful:

 

"koosh" for finding Koosh darts. The few sellers who list them have caught onto that.

"sucker" for USC (Universal Suction Clone) darts. These are very cheap and have gotten quite competitive. I highly recommend them over FVJ's.

 

Unfortunately, ACC darts don't seem to use the correct search helper term.

 

To find Acc darts just type " Nerf dart black" , works for me every time 

I stumbled upon a couple of youtube videos and blog pages about this R type ultra match blaster as well as the "bird or prey". After a lot of reading and watching I am very compelled to make one due to the rage claims of 140- 200 feet. This sounded ridiculous to me at first but I found a page selling these blasters as well as a pretty convincing range test video. I am currently in the middle of making two of these out of the blasters used in the videos I found. If anyone knows what I'm talking about or has made one of these before and has some tips on the mod please let me know or If this is all just bs and I'm wasting my time let me know.

For anyone that does not know what I am talking about and is curious, the general idea is to make a high powered fairly accurate blaster based off of a night finder type blaster, usually a fire strike or a pink crush.

I'm assuming your talking about Chris Cartaya's modded blasters.
A couple months ago there was a controversy towards his range testing methods and it eventually came to the fact that he wasn't using stefans as well as breeze/angle.
He mods his blasters well, and they do shoot above 70 feet consistently with stefans and they are pretty accurate.

These "R type ultra match blasters" aren't anything new or special, they're just modifications of existing nerf blasters (albeit with a high spring load and comprehensive mods.) I've handled them and have been shot by them and really aren't anything new to what the community has been doing for a while. They can be compared to a nicely modified nightfinder.

An aside: Your post quality is pretty poor. You don't link to an actual video nor do you present any new or interesting ideas. Furthermore it looks like you spent about half a second on your title, which doesn't really describe what you found.

Yes he is one of the people I was reading about. That makes sense, too bad they don't live up to what he says they are. Oh well, I'm more of a homemade blaster guy anyways. Ill just stick to my rainbow pistole

I am aware that they are just modifications of existing blasters.

Thank you for answering my question, I appreciate the response as well as the constructive criticism. I will keep what you said in mind next time I post.

 

I saw this when it first came out. I don't think the files ever went public though. I haven't seen them anyways.  Its nice to see the project re visited

 

Edit: I found the files on thingiverse 

 

https://www.thingive...m/thing:4206149

Location: 1695 Dundas St W, Mississauga, ON L5C 1E3

 

Admission: Last war I had a few people not pay so im being as clear as possible  . If you don't pay you don't play. Wars cost money to do and its not fair that some people contribute and other dont. To anyone whats wondering where the money goes it all goes toward renting the area, buying cover and maintaining the large dart bin. If your not okay with that don't come.  The cost of admission will depend on how many people show up. The cost per person will lower depending on how many people come 

 

When: June, 19,2016  war starts at 10 

 

WHAT TO BRING

 

- PRIMARY

  One or more good primary blasters, and if possible a backup in case your blaster breaks. If your blaster does end up breaking, we have loaners available for you to use.

- PISTOL

  A pistol for pistol rounds. And no, a Nitefinder rifle doesn’t count. However, a Panther or Pistol Splat does  

 

MELEE WEAPONS

  Melee is allowed but it must be either Nerf brand or homemade perfectly. We will check any homemade boffer weapons, unless we know you and trust that you know what to do. Also, you must also be bringing a blaster (this is to prevent LARPers showing up with just melee, however unlikely that is). Most LARP weapons will be allowed; if it is similar to the N-Force line in terms of materials (foam outer layer and plastic core).

Special restriction on homemade melee weapons: Length limit of 3 FEET. That is the length of the Marauder longsword.

 

 

DARTS

  As many darts as you see fit, I am bringing 500 for myself. We have a community bin you can use, but dart fit may vary. I would prefer everyone to bring there own but the community dart bin is available to those who need darts. If you use my darts you WILL help us dart sweep at the end of the day.

WATER

  There won’t be any places to get water close to the field so please bring your own. I will be bringing a cooler with a case of water in it for myself and any idiots that forget to bring some.

POSITIVE ATTITUDE

  A good mood, no one wants to war with a jerk. If you are causing problems with other players you will be escorted from the premises.

LUNCH

  Bring one or eat before you get there, but we will probably order a pizza or something anyway.

EYE PROTECTION

  Your eyes are pretty much the only part of your body that can be seriously hurt by a nerf dart, I really would like to see everyone with some kind of eye protection. However, if you are

1.Over 18 years of age or  2. An idiot, we cannot legally force you to.

 

WHAT NOT TO BRING

 

- WATER GUNS

  You can bring a converted Hydro Cannon to f*ck with between rounds for the LOLs, but if it shoots water, don’t bring it. If you have a converted super soaker that you feel is safe, you’re welcome to bring it and one of us will check it.   

 

- SINGLED DRAIN BLASTERS (COBRA, JOBAR, PANGO, etc.)

  Nope. Not a chance. You can bring it just in case a raccoon is bothering us, and you happen to bring a long enough barrel to hit it accurately.

Absolver exception: At least 4 Barrels required for Cobra, 3 for Jobar and Pango.  

 

ALCOHOL, ILLICIT DRUGS OR REAL FIREARMS

  As much as we’re sure you enjoy any or all of these, you will be escorted from the premises if you show up with any of them. There’s plenty of time to drink at dinner afterwards.

 

HOMEMADE AIRGUNS

  We really don’t care how safe you made your pipe bomb, you’re not bringing it. We’ll let you know if we’re planning any big game hunts in the near future.

Exception: JSPB Pro  

 

SINGLED TITANS

  If you’ve been nerfing for any decent length of time, we don’t have to explain this. Absolver’d titans will be allowed, MIN 3 BARRELS.

 

PLUGGED BIG BLASTS, UMBs and MEGA MISSILES

 Same as the singled titan ban. And yes, we can tell. We didn’t fall off the cabbage truck yesterday.

 

BLASTER RESTRICTIONS

 This will be done on a case by case basis but there a few things I do not want to see.

- anything made to look real

- overpowered airguns. Just because you reinforced you tank with epoxy doesn't mean you need to pump the sh*t out of it and shoot way harder then needed

- converted paintball guns (scepters are okay)

 

if you are not sure about a blaster show it to one of us. If you wouldn't want to be shot with your own blaster there is a good chance no one else wants to be shot with it either.

 

DARTS

 

ILLEGAL

-Slingshot darts

 If you bring these we have a couple of our own and a couple shitcannons on site to shoot you with point blank. We let it slide last time but not anymore.

-EXPOSED METAL

  I can’t believe we even have to put this here. To be honest anyone smarter than a sack of hammers can follow this.

 

LEGAL

-SILI-TIPS

  This includes Pak-D tips, Xplorer tips, homemade sili-domes, artifact darts, acc darts or any other types of silicone domes or other metal free alternative.

SLUGS

  #6 or PERFECT (foam and felt must COMPLETELY COVER the weight, not just the front. Yes it is possible. ) #8 slugs

 

GLUE DOMES

  3/0, 3/16 ball bearing, single BB, etc. Basically 3/0 or lighter is allowed.

 

CDTS (Converted Dart Tag Stefan)

  Remember when people made these? We don’t.

STOCK AMMO

  Any form of stock ammo, knockoff brand or otherwise. This includes Nerf, Buzz Bee, BoomCo, Rival and Sceptor balls, megas, missiles, whatever.   

 

  If your darts are made so poorly that they are unsafe we will not let you use them, you are more then welcome to use some from the community box though, just remember to return them at the end of the war.

 

POTENTIAL GAMETYPES

3:15 Team Deathmatch

3:15 FFA

5:0

Headhunters

Civil War

Freeze Tag

Defend the Core

Monster Mash

Payload

Capture the Flag

Slaughter

Pistols

Wingman

 

RAFFLE

  We will be having a Southeast style raffle. Please don’t bring absolute garbage, however there will most likely be a trash can nearby you can use for your Recon with a leaky shotblast tank that uses a vertical facing super soaker pump and only takes 50 pumps to fill. And no, we don’t care that it fires fine “if you shoot right after pumping”.

 

AFTER-WAR DINNER

  We will probably go somewhere for dinner afterwards, whoever wants to come is welcome to.  

 

 

ATTENDEES

• skullface44

• the2ndbluesbro

• buffdaddy

• curly

• deaddumpster

• grey 

• k9 (hopefully) 

I am hoping to attend this war, however I had a question about dart weight regulations. I use glue domed Stefan darts weighted with a 1/4" diameter steel ball from McMaster Carr. The steel ball weighs the same as a 3/0 lead fishing weight, but it is slightly larger. Would I be permitted to use these weights in my darts? Or would I have to switch to another type of weight for the war?

 

How heavy are they? If you dont know ill weigh them at the war. Bring one of the steel balls for me to look at too if you can. If they end up being to heavy your more the welcome to use my darts, I bring around 3000.

That's fine the weight is what matters not the diameter.

 

Slingshot weights are !/4 steel balls, so they are most likely not fine. Please do not answer questions about rule unless you are sure you know the answer. Just dont want it to get confusing 

After some research, 3/0 fishing weights weigh approximately 0.5g, while 1/4 slingshot ammo weighs 1.0g. So what you bought from McMaster seems to be the exact ones companies sell as slingshot ammo. Sorry for my lack of research before replying the first time, your darts will not be allowed with those weights. 

 

 

Just weighed some 3/0 lead fishing weights and they are 1g too. Not sure if what you found was the weight of another size of fishing weight, but the 3/0 fishing weights I own (from Walmart) weigh the same as the 1/4" steel ball. I could use 3/0 weights in my darts, but I don't like to handle all that lead plus the steel balls are cheaper.

 

The 3/0 fishing weights from canadian tier and bass pro shop are .75g-.8g witch is the max weight for darts at the war. The darts in the community dart bin are made of a mix of sera rod, hot rod xl and some red foam from china. If they dont fit your barrel you can use one of mine or if your not using something that the barrel cant be changed you can use one of my blasters. 

Do it. Even if I can't get the day off I'll make sure you break even on the permit and other expenses (within reason).

Okay, I will be booking it tomorrow. The office is closed now

Haha, you do realize Canuckstan ran slingshot darts for the longest time, right? So the old guys probably have those in stock.

Totally understand moving away from those, and you're hosting so it's your call. But since it's the first war in forever, it might be good to be lenient about them. A transition type deal. Although if someone shows up with lots of fresh slingshot darts, we reserve the right to use them on the offender with a Big Blast

3/16'' bearings work perfectly. Since McMaster doesn't do Canada I could bring some up if needed.

How much are the permits?

You have a point, I will although sling shot darts for this war but we need to start to get rid of them if we continue to do this. Definitely no fresh ones. 3/16 ball bearings are great, iv been using those for a wile and I love them. If everyone used those that would be perfect but most people in Canada cant get stuff from mc master. 3/0s should be fine for everyone, thank your for the generous offer though

Absolutely. I'll have to get the day off work but I'll sell a kidney to Nerf again. If the permits aren't hilariously expensive it's a good idea. Enough of us can Paypal you the money in advance to cover most of the cost. I have plenty of loaner blasters, and a few NIB UMBs if needed. I need foam, barrel material, and your motorcycle.




I actually do have a large amount of slingshot weights... are those still the state of the art in Canuck dartsmithing? I just emailed McMaster and they said they ship to Canadian businesses, but weren't specific on what type of business. I'll see what they say if I try to ship stuff to work and let everybody know. I wouldn't be upset if I couldn't use my slingshot darts, but the next cheap alternative I'm aware of is copper BBs which are hard to center. Slugs should be faster to make if you don't have to carefully make a glue dome, if they're not double the cost I'll switch to those permanently. If McMaster checks out anybody at an independent business should be able to get McMaster goodies.

Grate idea, ill look into in tomorrow morning and post how much it will cost as soon as I find out even if I can get a few people to pitch and I end up paying the most I am totally fine with that.


I don't think the care what type of business, my family owns a small construction business and I have had no trouble ordering stuff from mc master. Switching to slugs would be cheaper I think, #6 washers can be bought locally and the felt pads are around $5usd for 500.

I am 100% bringing a +2 however they will need loaners and will use the community darts since I don't have enough dart making materials to make more than enough for me.

Great! Not a problem, I will be bringing at least 6 blasters to lend out to who ever needs one

could I come? I might bring one or two friends we got tons of blasters and tons of darts. im curios, are modded blasters aloud?

of course you can come, bring as many people as you want.

Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. I have the date marked!

Grate,see you then !

I just started making and testing darts this weekend. 100 so far, just while I'm watching things on TV.

Expect some money on Paypal to help cover the permit this week, after my next paycheck.

Sounds good, thank you.

I recently renewed my passport, and if this wasn't on the 15th I would be down to clown. Unfortunately, I'll be in the Grand Cayman Islands that weekend. I've been looking forward to Canukistan nerfing for a few years now.

If the Canadian war scene is really back, you may consider trying to revive Hell Before Halloween. I have a 90% of the plans laid for another Hell After Halloween this year (probably in Columbus) but if you guys want to host something later in the fall, count me in.

If this goes well and I get a good turn out I will host wars on a regular basis in Canada. Assuming everything works out I will be hosting a war around Halloween, a bunch of the old Canadian vets on Canadian nerfers facebook group want to do a Hell Before Halloween in Ontario and I would love to see some Americans come. Hopefully no one gets too butt hurt about there being two Hell before Halloweens. The only resin I would host one In Ontario as well is because I doubt all the nerfers in my area would drive to Columbus. I will try my best to come to your Hell before Halloween though. I was thinking I would do the Hb4h war in my area two weeks before or after your hb4h (probably before) and call it Hb4H round one or somthing along those lines.

Location: Erindale Park 1695 Dundas St W Mississauga, ON L5L 1C6 Canada I have a permit for section A 10:00am - 6:00

When: August 15th, I will be at the park at 9:30AM to set up but the war starts at 10:00 AM.

What to bring:
- One or more good primary blasters as well as a secondary blaster. If your blaster brakes I will most likely be able let you use one of mine
- A springer pistol for pistol rounds
- As many darts as you see fit, I am bringing 500 for my self as well as what ever is in my dart bin for anyone that did not bring enough darts
- Water, there will not be any places to get water close to the field so please bring your own. I will be bringing a cooler with a case of water in it for my self and any idiots that forget to bring some
- A good mood, no one wants to war with a jerk. If you are causing problems with other players I will ask you to leave
- Bring a lunch, there will not be anywhere to go eat that is close by. The park has a few BBQs, if one is available I would pitch on a box of burgers or something if anyone else wants any
- Eye protection. Your eyes are pretty much the only part of your body that can be seriously hurt by a nerf dart, I really would like to see everyone with some kind of eye protection but I wont make you if you don't want to.

What not to bring:
- Water guns
- Alcohol or drugs, I would be the first to want to go get a beer with everyone (that is legal) after the war but the park is not place for that. We will get kicked out if people see that.
- Homemade airguns
- singled titans

Blaster restrictions:
- This will mostly be done on a case by case basis, if you are not sure about a blaster show it to me.If you would not want to be shot with your own blaster there is a good chance no one else wants to be shot with it either.

Darts:
- #6 or #8 slugs as well as 3/0 or lighter glue domes will be aloud. If your darts are made so poorly that they are unsafe I will not let you use them, you are more then welcome to use some of mine though.
- No exposed metal or slingshot weighted darts
- Silicone domes and x darts are fine too

Who will be there:
- Me + 3
- Condorboy +1
- The2ndbluesbro +1-2(maybe)
- Buffdaddy
- cheyner (maybe)
- charlie156 (maybe)
- Lpat +1 or 2 (maybe)

I know I already posted this but I though I would put it up here so no one will miss it. The park will cost $87-$100ish for the day for 120 people. I know we wont have that many so there will be no problems with that. I told the lady pretty much what we were doing and she seemed to not care. My pay pal address is danny931202@gmail.com, I am going to pay for the rental and what ever money you guys can pitch in would be grate.

I'm a maybe.
Do you have a permit?
How firm are you on slingshot darts?

I was looking into that and apparently we don't need one unless there is 20 people. I would buy one if I knew people would come and pitch in to help cover the cost but since this is the first war in a long time im worried about spending bunch of money to get a permit and loosing it all because not enough people show up. If there is a good turn out and we can turn this into a regular thing I would be more then happy to get a permit or rent out a airsoft place. Wost case we get kicked out of the park we can just move to another location, I know of a few other good spots close by.

No sling shot darts man, they are just dangerous. Getting shot with those out of pretty much any airgun or homemade is not fun. I think I can speak for most people when I say no one whats to be shot with slingshot darts.

The only reason I've done Hell After Halloween for the past two years was because HBH died. I'll gladly attend if HBH is hosted in Canada and I could host a different war in Columbus at a different date. I don't have any qualms about who hosts or where; I'm game for a good war regardless of location.

Okay, sounds good. I will know if it will happen or not after this war on the 15th. I'll send you a message with the results and what I plan to do. I will still try to come to Columbus if you host a different war after HB4B, hopefully some people from my area will come up with me too. Im going to try to get 3 other people

As long as it does not look like paintball gun or a real gun Its all good.

I just called about renting the park. It will be $87-$100 to rent the park all day. I am willing to put up all of the money as long as people pitch in what they can. My pay pal address is danny931202@gmail.com send what ever you feel like giving. A minimum of $5 cnd would be grate. Any local guys that want to give me cash when they see me at the war or ti buy foam let me know. The sooner I rent the park the better.

For anyone that needs foam, I have been selling hot rod xl and Sera rod beige. If you want to go straight to the source Bernardi building supply in Mississauga carry hot rod xl. It's fat foam but can be stretched to fit cpvc and 17/32 brass. I have the auto blanker so anyone that wants pre cut blacks of stretched hot rod xl let me know. The Sera rod is springer fit in 17/32 and cpvc. Airgun fit in petg, it is slightly flat on one side but 15 minuets in the dryer takes care of that.

So this event is for homemades?

If you read the posts you would know the answer to your own question. Your in Mississauga, you should come. If you don't have a blaster you can use one of mine.

I went to go see the section I rented for us today and I could not be happier. The area is more then big enough, is totally separate from the rest of the park,has a big area with tables for getting ready or what ever and it has a separate washroom. The area is separated from the rest of the park by a big wall and a lot of trees, there will be no non nerfers there to complain and try to get us kicked out.

I may be bringing a +1 or 2 (strong maybe for the +1, not so sure on the +2)

Okay, sounds good. I will bring lots of extra blasters for people

I'll be willing to pitch in to cover a possible permit!

Great, thanks!

put me down for a maybe

Okay, will do




I spent about 3 hours last Saturday walking through the park. The area I rented had a lot of people in it so I didn't go in but the rest of the park has lots of great spots to play if we get bored of our spot. I will be going back to the park this week to take a closer look at the spot I rented though.

I'll see if I can talk the and only MIG into coming

That would be great, I inboxed him on youtube but he didn't answer

Is there anyone in the Toronto area I can carpool with to get to the war? I'm in the midtown area but I would be fine with going to any subway station to meet up on the way.

If you aren't able to find a ride let me know, I can pick you up if need be. Just let me know a day or two before the war so I can plan for it

A permit will go a long way to get more vets. Many of us are still bitter about being kicked out of the park Vengeance used to be held at.
Also, if the permit allows sticking things in the ground I have many obstacles I can bring and would really like to pass onto somebody else after the war.

That would be grate, I will tomorrow after I get the permit. If for some resin we get kicked out of the park (very very unlikely) I have a back up spot that is close by, it is a industrial lot that no one really goes to. I don't know who owns it but I have talked to every one that backs onto it and they don't care what I do there. I used to play airsoft there with my friends when I was in high school with loud full auto AEGs and GBBs, no one ever came or said anything. So no matter what we are having a war, the relocation spot is 5 mins away at most. If I am the only one with a car I will make as many trips as I need to to get everyone from one spot to another if I have to.

No turning back now, I just payed for the permit, it was $106. We have section A from 10 to 6, this section has a BBQ so we can cook up a nice lunch. Please don't make me regret this guys, if we have a good turn out and I don't have to eat the inter cost of the permit I will be doing this as regular as possible. Anyone that wishes to help out with the cost please send money to danny931202@gmail.com via paypal.

Just to be clear, slugs sili tips, xplorer darts, with #6 or #8 washers, 3/0 fishing weights?
Glue domes are a no no (in all fair understanding, just wanted to make sure)

3/0 glue domes are fine, as long as they are made properly and out of decent foam. If they are made poorly to the point that they are flying apart in the air or the foam is so bad that the 3/0 wight flys out I will as the person to put them away. 3/0s inside of a dart are pretty harmless but when they leave the dart in mid flight they can do serious damage. I have shot a 3/0 weight out of a big blast and it went though 1/4 inch wood

Glue domes are allowed just no slingshot weights.

Yes, that is correct

Location: My place, (Caledon East) Pm for address

When: Postponed
What to bring:
- One or more good primary blasters as well as a secondary blaster. If your blaster brakes I will most likely be able let you use one of mine
- A springer pistol for pistol rounds
- As many darts as you see fit, I am bringing 500 for my self as well as what ever is in my dart bin for anyone that did not bring enough darts
- Water, there will not be any places to get water close to the field so please bring your own. I will be bringing a cooler with a case of water in it for my self and any idiots that forget to bring some
- A good mood, no one wants to war with a jerk. If you are causing problems with other players I will ask you to leave
- Bring a lunch, there will not be anywhere to go eat that is close by. I have BBQs, but screw that lets order pizza like last time
- Eye protection. Your eyes are pretty much the only part of your body that can be seriously hurt by a nerf dart, I really would like to see everyone with some kind of eye protection but I wont make you if you don't want to.

What not to bring:
- Water guns
- Alcohol or drugs, I would be the first to want to go get a beer with everyone (that is legal) after the war but the park is not place for that. We will get kicked out if people see that.
- Homemade airguns
- singled titans

Blaster restrictions:
- This will mostly be done on a case by case basis, if you are not sure about a blaster show it to me.If you would not want to be shot with your own blaster there is a good chance no one else wants to be shot with it either.

Darts:
- #6 or #8 slugs as well as 3/0 or lighter glue domes will be aloud. If your darts are made so poorly that they are unsafe I will not let you use them, you are more then welcome to use some of mine though.
- No exposed metal
- Silicone domes and x darts are fine too

Game types:
- 3:15
- defend the core
- slaughter
- VIP

Who will be there:
- Me
- 2ndbluesbro
- condoboy
- curly

I recently was lucky enough to find a new in box supermaxx 5000, the blaster is totally sealed and the box is in good condition. My question is what is it worth? Im not asking because I have intentions to sell it, I am just curious. If anyone is interested in how much I payed and how I found it, I payed $40cdn and found it on kijji, The guy said he was cleaning his dads garage and found it still rapped up for christmas, it was supposed to be a gift for his son many years ago but it was forgotten about. Since his son is older now and has no interest in nerf he put it on kijji and sold it to me. I also would like to know how much a new in bow supermaxx 3000 v2 would be worth ? I payed $20cdn and got it in literally the exact same way under the same circumstances. I guess the nerf gods like me or something?

So, basically i wanted to gauge interest in becoming a silicone tip maker and distributer around the forums. Would anyone find a person who could produce a large number of tips and ship them out to be useful? I made a mold, and i need some funding to buy myself some new tools. Feedback and comments welcome!

just to clarify are these tips like the ones sold by xplorer and pac D ? http://www.xplorersg...1_11521172.aspx or they just normal silicone domes that can be easily made by anyone with silicone from a hardware store and a dome mold from mha ?

Yeah there are some reliability issues, I figured anyone using one would carry a few 18 clips with them on a vest or something. Maybe we should take a look at the design and see if there's any room for improvement (Larger PT?). Also sometimes you can fail to prime the pumpsnap all the way if you're tired near the end of a war, but the shorter draw of the RevShot usually avoids that. There are also less complicated parts on a Pumpsnap, I still have no idea how the RevShot works.

I'd rather have a pocket full darts and a hopper over a vest full of mags. The mags have to be modded if you want to shoot stefan darts too, witch is a pain in the ass. Dont get me wrong I love my rev shot, iv put a lot of time into tuning it. I even made specific darts for it, but doesn't fit my play style.

I don't own one but hopefully someone who does will see this thread. Also I'm pretty sure it needed a custom lathed part as well. We really should limit all Nerf stuff to the Haven, it really sucks that people are going to Facebook.

I have one, Its the one I had at the last war. Ill post pics and measurements when I have some time

That'll be an awesome addition to nerfhaven's library. Honestly I think it's more effective than a pumpsnap. Higher capacity and consistent shots.

I disagree , yea its nice but it has the plunger volume of a longshot. The brass breach can sometimes chop darts and mis feed and reloading mags isn't fast at all. Sure you could carry pre loaded mags but that's a pain (In my opinion). I would take a hoppered snap/rainbow pump over a rev shot any day. There is a reason people stopped making them.

Introduction:

 

Fist off I would like to say that I am doing this wright up because I have had quite a few people ask me to do it and since there isn't a lot of revshots around and the original wright up is not available anymore  I thought  it would be a good thing to have around. Especially since there is a lot of cheap, safe and good darts that dont hopper that well coming out of china lately i figured a few people might want to build a mag fed homemade again. Secondly  I have to mention that I did not design this blaster, from what I have seen luiec3 is responsible for this blaster . This blaster was purchased from a nerfhaven user (luckydude), although most of the blaster has been re built some of the credit goes to him for building the blaster because it aloud me to study the blaster inside and out,make the changes I thought where necessary and eventually do this wright up. SInce I dont have anything else to reference im going to assume the way I received this blaster was the way they were intended to be. Here is a list the "stock" features and a list of the changes i made. I perceive  them as upgrades but that is just my opinion. The 1.25" Thin wall plunger tube can be substituted with a ERTL PAS plunger tube( witch is even bigger), if you do this use the stock pas plunger head. 

 

Specs of blaster when recived:

 

- 1 1/4" pvc plunger tube

- 5" of draw

- brass and cpvc breach going into a  12"petg barrel

- 1 1/2" thinwall pvc pump grip 

- #6-32 hardware 

- rainbow catch 

- omni directional catch 

- U cup+rubber washer seal 

- [k26] spring 

 

Changes made:

 

- expanded plunger tube using  1-1/4 thin wall pvc (for a even bigger plunger tube a pas PT can be used) 

- 9/16 brass breach with tightening rings ( 14" barrel ) 

- [k26]+ arrow storm spring 

- spring spacer for more compression 

- stronger catch spring 

- #10-32 bolt for the priming rod 

- Polycarb and delrin angled fore grip added to the pump 

- air release hole in breach for smooth loading 

 

Matierals needed:

 

- 1' of 1/2" nylon rod

- 2' of 1.5" thinwallpvc 

- 3' of 1' pvc 

- 5/8" clear thinwall pvc 

- 1"- 1/2" pvc bushing 

- 2' of 1/2 pvc

- 12" of 1 1/4 pvc 

- 3/4" of 1 1/2 sink drain extension pipe 

- #6 1/4" nylon spacers 

- 3' of 1/4"x  1/2" aluminum bar 

- 12x6 1/4" polycarb sheet 

- Any 1/2" thick plastic (i used hdpe )

-  3/8 #6-32 set screws x 4 

- 3/4 #6-32 pan head screws x3

- 1/2" #6-32 pan head screws x 17

- 3/8 #6-32 pan head screws x 8

- #6 washers x7

- 2" #10-32  bolt with matching lock nut

- 6" of 2" Dia. plastic rod ( nylon,delrin or pvc can be used) 

- 1/4" aluminum rod 

- tuck tape

- 6x6 3/4" thick peace of hard wood 

- U cup seal 9691k57

- 1.5" rubber washer 

- 1/2" of 17/32" brass 

- 18" of 9/16" brass 

- 5 3/8"  19/32" brass

- 5 1/8" of 1/2" brass

- 6x12 sheet 1/16" plastic ( I used styrene) 

 

Tools

- #6-32 and #10-32 tap

- drill press

- scrollsaw

- bandsaw

- holesaw

- 7/64" dril bit 

- lathe

- tools for lathe I ground my own out of H.H.S blanks because its cheaper but you can buy them if you want  (boring tool, standard bit,grooving bit)

- vernier calipers 

- screw driver 

- marker 

Adhesives

 

- pvc primer 

- solvent weld

- epoxy 

- epoxy putty

- hot glue

- super glue 

- goop

- lepage 100% glue or Go2glue

 

 

Step 1: The Magewell 

 

- Here are drawings of the mag well,trigger and support  bar for the mag well. You will need to make 2 of the side plates. These are not templates but you could probably get away with cutting them out. Just measure the drawing when you print it and see if its close to the dimensions.   These parts are made of 1/4" polycarb

 

 

 

 

 

It will look like this when its done 

 

 

 make the aluminium  bar before you put the mag well together.  it will help you line everything up correctly. 

 

 

Step 2 : Body 

 

- Cut 20 1/4" of 1 1/2" thinwall pvc. divide the pvc into 8 sections. I like to use one colour for the 1/4s and another for the 1/8ths. mark out the mag well slot by  starting at 7/8" from one side of the pvc and ending at 4 5/8", make it 1" wide and cut with a dremel this will now be the front of the blaster. 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3 : Slots 

 

- place the body with the mag well facing towards you and mark out the slots. They start at 5 3/4" and end at 10 1/4", make them wide enough so a #10-32 bolt slides freely. Sorry for the bad picture. 

 

 

 

Step 4 : The breach support  

 

This is the part you need a lathe for. Get your 2" rod and cut it 1/2 longer then you need it to be, that will give you lots of room to face off the part on both sides and make both faces square. When you are making these parts make sure to have a scrap peace of the 1 1/2" thinwall pvc with you to check the fit of your parts.adjust  the size of these two parts to what ever you need, they should be able to fit into your pvc easily but not be able to slide too much. Wile your at the lathe go ahead and make the aluminum support  bar for the mag well too.  Im sure there are other ways to do this though. I drew a quick sketch of the parts 

 

 

 

They will look like this when you are done 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5 : The catch 

 

Make a standard rainbow catch. Templates can be found here: http://nerfhaven.com.../20330-rainbow/

 

now cut a  5" peace of 1 1/4" pvc and screw the rainbow catch in place using set screws. it should look like this when you are done 

 

 

Rap e tap around the tube until it fits in the 1 1/2" thinwall pvc 

 

Now line up the catch tube so its flush with the back of the 1 1/2" pvc body and mark where the catch hole need to be. Now drill a hole where your mark lines up with the the next 1/4 line over from the line you make one of the slots on. This will now be the bottom of the blaster.

 

 

 

 

The hole will need to be big enough to let the catch screw slide freely but small enough so the spring has something to rest on. If you mess up and make it too big its not a problem the spring will rest on the 1 1/4" pvc that is nested inside the blaster.  After you have done this put the catch tube in the blaster and screw in the catch screw, this will hold the tube in place for now.

 

 

 

 

put  3 or 4 screw though the 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" pvc to hold the catch tube in place, make sure to not hit the catch with these screws. The placement of the screws  does not matter but make it look nice 

 

 

 

 

 

step 6 : The plunger tube 

 

Get your 1 1/4" thin wall pvc and cut it to 6". Now get your 1 1/2" sink drain extension pipe and cut a 1/2 peace. Take your 1" to 1/2" pvc bushing and tap with tape until its snug in the drain pipe. Solvent weld the peaces together so the front of the bushing is flush with the 1 1/2" drain pipe. Now get a stub of 1/2 pvc and solvent weld it into the bushing.  Next measure 3/4" from the front of the part and cut( make sure its dry first). It should look like this when you are done 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now that you have your 3/4" long plunger cap  solvent weld it into the 1 1/4 thin wall plunger tube so it is flush with the front. After it is cured drill a 5//32" hole 3/8"from the front of the plunger tube, make sure its going straight through.  It should look like this when you are done. 

 

 

 

Step 7 : The breach 

 

The sized of brass used will depend on if you make a 17/32" barrel or a 9/16" barrel. I used 9/16". First measure out 17" of  your barrel material ( i used 9/16"). next measure 4 1/4" from one end of the brass and mark with a sharpie. Now draw a line around half of the brass then draw two straight lines to the end of the brass. Shade in the area and cut it out, i Used a band saw with a metal blade but a dremel  works just as well.  It will look like this when you are done 

 

 

I lost the pictures for this part but its very easy. Cut 10 1/2" of 1/2" pvc and 1" pvc then glue the 1/2" pvc into the 1" pvc so 2 1/2" of the 1/2" pvc is sticking out of one end of the 1" pvc. You may need to sand don the 1/2" pvc. Once it has cured take your brass barrel and glue it into the 1/2" pvc so that the end of the barrel is flush with the 1/2" pvc sticking out of the 1" pvc. Make sure to add tightening rings to the brass (if you want to ) before you glue it in. It should look like this when you are done. 

 

 

Next we are going to make the bolt and pusher, if you are using a 9/16 barrel like me you will need 19/32" brass and 1/2 brass.  Cut 5 3/8" of your 19/32" brass and 5 1/8" of your 1/2 brass. now cut 1/2" of your 17/32" brass and  9/16" brass. Now super glue the 17/32" brass into the 9/16" brass then super glue that onto one end of the 1/2" brass this is now your pusher . after you have done this carefull drill a 2 7/64" holes anywhere in the 1/2 pusher, make sure to debur the holes. These holes will prevents a vacuum forming  behind the dart then it is being loaded. Next take your 19/32 brass and super glue it onto the pusher. Your bolt is now done. I used a peace of 5/8" brass to bridge the gap between the 19/32" and the 1/2 pvc but you can use e-tap if you dont have any. It will look something like this

 

 

Now that you have this peace you can glue it into the plunger tube. Make sure none of it sticks out on the inside of the plunger tube. I used Lepage 100% glue for this because its strong but flexible, if your in the states this is called go2glue. Once it is cured you can carefully drill though the brass using the holes that you already drilled in the pvc plunger tube. To make sure everything is air tight put a ring of glue (goop or Lepage 100% glue/go2glue) around the bottom of the brass and let it cure, next put a layer of glue all over the front of the plunger tube. I dont have a pic of this sorry. 

 

 

 

Step 8: The pump grip 

 

Take your aluminum bar and cut two 14 1/4" peaces. Make sure one end is nice and square and round off one end.  Now cut a 3 1/3" peace of 1 1/4" pvc and 1 1/2" pvc and nest them together, you will need to rap the smaller size with e-tape. Now  on the rounded side of the bars drill a 3/16" hole though both bars, to make sure the hole is in the same spot on both bars i like to tape them together with some packing tape.  next drill 3 --- holes on the square side of the bars, i drilled them 1/4" apart.  Now that you have done that put everything aside, the holes that will allow the bars to be attached to the pvc are drilled later.  This would be a good time to make a grip for your pump if you want to. Mine looked like this when i was done 

 

Step 9: the plunger 

 

Get your 1/2" nylon rod and cut it to 10 1/2" next make your catch notch 5 1/4" back from one end of the rod (it must be omni directional). This one was cut on a lathe.  If you do use a lathe, center drill one end and then drill a 17/64" hole about 3/4" deep then tap with a 6-32 tap.

 

 

 

Now get your 1/4 polycarb( 1/4" hdpe works too) and cut 3 disks, two disks using a 1 3/8" hole saw and the other with a 1 1/8" hole saw. Once you have that done get your u cup and put the small disk in the center of it then the two other ones sandwiching it the screw it onto your plunger rod.I have a 1 1/2" rubber washer under my u-cup but its not necessary.   I padded mine with some craft foam and a rubber washer.

 

 

I made a spacer for more spring compression out of 1/2" pvc and cpvc and come 3/4" pvc but its not necessary. It helps performance quite a bit in my opinion though. 

 

Step 10: handel 

 

Cut 2 1/4" of 1 1/4" pvc, chamfer both ends then cut the top off. This cut does not need to be perfect it will be cleaned up later. Do not take a lot off though, just enough to give you room to screw in the handle. You can make the handle any shape you want, I made a simple one out of oak. Attach the handle using 3 drywall or wood screws, i like to us 1/2 screws on the outside holes and a 1" screw in the middle. I also put some epoxy around the joint between the wood and pvd to smooth it out but its not necessary. Stain or paint the handle how ever you want, I just rapped e tape around mine. It will look something like this when you are done 

 

 

Step 11: The stock 

 

Cut a peace of 1 1/2" pvc how ever long you want then cut a peace of 1 1/4" pvc the same size. Glue the 1 1/4" into the 1 1/2 then glue that into the elbow. It will look like this when its done 

 

 

Step 12: trigger housing

 

 Cut three disks that will fit snugly in 1" pvc  from you 1/2" plastic , I used a small peace of 1" pvc to trace the inside of the pipe onto the plastic.  Next cut a 14" peace of 1" pvc. Cut the top off of the 1' pvc your taking about a little bit more then 1/4 of the pipe off. The goal of this is to have it sit nicely onto the 1 1/2" pvc body. Now put your disks indie the 1" and mark how much need to be taken off of them for everything to sit nicely onto the 1 1/2 pvc. After you have done that cut a slot on the bottom of the pvc, it will start 1" from the end and finish 2 1/2" from the end,this will allow the trigger to slide.  Now take the disks out of the 1" pvc and cut groves in the bottom of them big enough to let the trigger slide though them. Next cut a small triangle out of polycarbonate, this may take few tries to get right, I dont have measurements for you sorry. Secure the triangle into one of the disks using a small pin, the triangle  must be able to move, it will be what pushes on the catch screw. Here a some pictures of mine, if this does not make sense watch the video that is linked at the end of the wright up. 

 

 

 

 

Step 13: assembly 

 

Get your front magwell and insert it into the blaster, next get your front breach support peace and insert it into the front of the blaster, it should be pretty much flush with the pvc. Secure the front breach support with 3/8" 6/32 screws, i used 4. Next get your back breach support and slide it in the back of the blaster until it fits into the other side of the magwell. Next you slide your plunger tube with the plunger and springs in it into the back of the blaster, make sure you lube the plunger up well.  Next screw in your catch tube into the back of the blaster, you want your plunger rod to be sicking out of the catch by at least a 1/4" but no more then 1". Your should have something that looks like this now. 

 

 

here is a pic of how the internals are in the blaster 

 

 

Now screw on the trigger housing and stock. The trigger housing is supported by the magwell and the straps. Screw on the stock using one long screw at the bottom of the stock, you want the screw you go though the trigger housing, this will make sure it does not move backwards.  

 

 

The last thing to do it to put the pump on, get your 2" 10-32 bolt and screw on the aluminum bars with it and secure with a lock nut on the other side, you do not want to over tighten this. Next slide the pump onto the front of the blaster and screw it to the aluminum bars. You can play around with the location a bit but make sure you can prime the blaster. 

 

NOW YOUR FINALLY DONE!! GO SHOOT SOME FOAM! 

 

 Here is a pic of what mine looks like 

 

 

A link to a video with a fireing test, range test, trigger demo and some ideas on how to now use a lathe will be up shortly. Thank you for reading, hope this helps. Questions are welcome 

 

Link: https://www.youtube....h?v=35TzVKIyOp0

Thanks so much for posting this up. It's great to have the design back around and visible. As much as I prefer hoppered blasters for a lot of reasons, I would way rather build one of these than spend the money on Xploding up a Longshot.

 

A suggestion to those who want to build one of these but don't have access to a lathe: there are omnidirectional Rainbow catch designs, such as the one in Aeromech's write-up here (I'd offhand guess that Ryan and Beaver deserve the credit for coming up with that design but who cares). There are probably also ways to implement a SNAP-style catch on the plunger head if the builder didn't want to make a Rainbow, which would also reduce the effective length of the trigger.

 

Thanks again for posting this, dude. Nice job building it. Did you end up making a video of it?

No problem, I think so too. I prefer hopperd blasters as well  but lately iv been really liking all of the cheep rubber domes coming out of china and since they dont hopper iv been using this quite a bit. 

 

Yes, I made a video the day i posted it, the range test is a little dark but you can hear the dart hit my garage. It just took a long time to upload because i live in the middle of no where and the internet is slow. 

Thanks for posting this, I know that my badgering must have been annoying.

Could you post a picture of the finished blaster? I don't see one on here and there aren't that many pictures of the revshot on NH anyway.

Also, what material are the "straps" that hold the plunger assembly to the lower receiver? I don't see them listed. 

You can use any 1/16" plastic for the straps as long as its flexible or can be bent with heat . Ill put a pic up later today. 

location:  Section A of Erindale Park    1695 Dundas St W, Mississauga, ON L5C 1E3

  Admission: in previous wars I had a few people not pay so im being as clear as possible  . If you don't pay you don't play. Wars cost money to do and its not fair that some people contribute and other dont. To anyone whats wondering where the money goes it all goes toward renting the area, buying cover and maintaining the large dart bin. If your not okay with that don't come.  The cost of admission will depend on how many people show up. The cost per person will lower depending on how many people come. 

 

WHAT TO BRING

 

- PRIMARY

  One or more good primary blasters, and if possible a backup in case your blaster breaks. If your blaster does end up breaking, we have loaners available for you to use. Most of my loaner homemades broke last indoor war so they will not be available. Will not be lending anyone my personal blasters sorry. I will have some singled airblasters availble  though and others may have blasters for people to use. 

- PISTOL

  A pistol for pistol rounds. And no, a Nitefinder rifle doesn’t count. However, a Panther or Pistol Splat does  and rainbow pistols DO count, I DONT CARE WHAT YOU ALL SAY ILL MAKE A BUNCH FOR EVERYONE TO USE IF I HAVE TO LOL       

 

MELEE WEAPONS

  Melee is allowed but it must be either Nerf brand or homemade perfectly. We will check any homemade boffer weapons, unless we know you and trust that you know what to do. Also, you must also be bringing a blaster. Most LARP weapons will be allowed; if it is similar to the N-Force line in terms of materials (foam outer layer and plastic core).

Special restriction on homemade melee weapons: Length limit of 3 FEET. That is the length of the Marauder longsword.

 

 

DARTS

  As many darts as you see fit, I am bringing 500 for myself. We have a community bin you can use, but dart fit may vary. I would prefer everyone to bring there own but the community dart bin is available to those who need darts. If you use my darts you WILL help us dart sweep at the end of the day.

WATER

  There won’t be any places to get water close to the field so please bring your own. I will be bringing a cooler with a case of water in it for myself and any idiots that forget to bring some.

POSITIVE ATTITUDE

  A good mood, no one wants to war with a jerk. If you are causing problems with other players you will be escorted from the premises.

LUNCH

  Bring one or eat before you get there, but we will probably order a pizza or something anyway.

EYE PROTECTION

  Your eyes are pretty much the only part of your body that can be seriously hurt by a nerf dart, I really would like to see everyone with some kind of eye protection. However, if you are

1.Over 18 years of age or  2. An idiot, we cannot legally force you to.

 

WHAT NOT TO BRING

 

- WATER GUNS

  You can bring a converted Hydro Cannon to f*ck with between rounds for the LOLs, but if it shoots water, don’t bring it. If you have a converted super soaker that you feel is safe, you’re welcome to bring it and one of us will check it.   

 

- SINGLED DRAIN BLASTERS (COBRA, JOBAR, PANGO, etc.)

  Nope. Not a chance. You can bring it just in case a raccoon is bothering us, and you happen to bring a long enough barrel to hit it accurately.

Absolver exception: At least 4 Barrels required for Cobra, 3 for Jobar and Pango.  

 

ALCOHOL, ILLICIT DRUGS OR REAL FIREARMS

  As much as we’re sure you enjoy any or all of these, you will be escorted from the premises if you show up with any of them. There’s plenty of time to drink at dinner afterwards.

 

HOMEMADE AIRGUNS

  We really don’t care how safe you made your pipe bomb, you’re not bringing it. We’ll let you know if we’re planning any big game hunts in the near future.

Exception: JSPB Pro  

 

SINGLED TITANS

  If you’ve been nerfing for any decent length of time, we don’t have to explain this. Absolver’d titans will be allowed, MIN 3 BARRELS.

 

PLUGGED BIG BLASTS, UMBs and MEGA MISSILES

 Same as the singled titan ban. And yes, we can tell. We didn’t fall off the cabbage truck yesterday.

 

BLASTER RESTRICTIONS

 This will be done on a case by case basis but there a few things I do not want to see.

- anything made to look real

- overpowered airguns. Just because you reinforced you tank with epoxy doesn't mean you need to pump the sh*t out of it and shoot way harder then needed

- converted paintball guns (scepters are okay)

 

if you are not sure about a blaster show it to one of us. If you wouldn't want to be shot with your own blaster there is a good chance no one else wants to be shot with it either.

 

DARTS

 

ILLEGAL

-Slingshot darts

 If you bring these we have a couple of our own and a couple shitcannons on site to shoot you with point blank. We let it slide last time but not anymore.

-EXPOSED METAL

  I can’t believe we even have to put this here. To be honest anyone smarter than a sack of hammers can follow this.

 

LEGAL

-SILI-TIPS

  This includes Pak-D tips, Xplorer tips, homemade sili-domes, artifact darts, acc darts or any other types of silicone domes or other metal free alternative.

SLUGS

  #6 or PERFECT (foam and felt must COMPLETELY COVER the weight, not just the front. Yes it is possible. ) #8 slugs

 

GLUE DOMES

  3/0, 3/16 ball bearing, single BB, etc. Basically 3/0 or lighter is allowed.

 

CDTS (Converted Dart Tag Stefan)

  Remember when people made these? We don’t.

STOCK AMMO

  Any form of stock ammo, knockoff brand or otherwise. This includes Nerf, Buzz Bee, BoomCo, Rival and Sceptor balls, megas, missiles, whatever.   

 

  If your darts are made so poorly that they are unsafe we will not let you use them, you are more then welcome to use some from the community box though, just remember to return them at the end of the war.

 

POTENTIAL GAMETYPES

3:15 Team Deathmatch

3:15 FFA

5:0

Civil War

Freeze Tag

Defend the Core

Monster Mash

Payload

Capture the Flag

Slaughter

Pistols

Wingman

 

 

AFTER-WAR DINNER

  We will probably go somewhere for dinner afterwards, whoever wants to come is welcome to. 

 

 

ATTENDEES

• skullface44

• the2ndbluesbro

• buffdaddy (hopefully)

• curly  ( hopefully) 

• deaddumpster +3

• grey ?

• k9 (hopefully) 

• Tank 
• charlie 156