Well, a little epoxy never hurt anyone.

I feel like there is a better way to do this... is there enough room inside the shell to fashion a PVC brace for the parts in question?
EDIT: For format.

Yeah, you guys are totally missing the point. Sure, you could go making PVC or poly-carbonate brackets and support systems, heck, you could rebuild the entirety of the internals while you're at it! Replace the plunger head, build a poly-carbonate catch to replace the original. But that's not the idea here.

This is the way it is because it works, it's easy to do, and makes this mod accessible to those with little to no experience modifying blasters. Granted, using epoxy is not the most strenuous job in the world, but more people just have hot glue and duct tape off hand than do epoxy and materials to construct some sort of bracket. Note the beginning of the entire writeup: "But they [other more in-depth BBB writeups] are all too complicated for someone who is new to modding. And more importantly, I think it is a waste of time to put so much work into what is, at it's core, a fundamentally mediocre blaster."

Also, Beaver, cool stuff, though I recommend adding some electrical tape in order to seal (or get as close as possible to doing so) the joint between the plunger tube and the coupler assembly. You've noted that you've maxed performance, so this may or may not help you, but I've found it to really make it seal nice, and if you wrap enough around, it can also help with that rotation issue. Important to note though, e-tape is less common to just have around the house, so again, in the interest of this being accessible to more people, duct tape may be the only option, and that's totally cool too.

This reminds me of NortherofHeavens integration... but I like this one more only because it looks "ballin" haha.

P.S. Is the movie Transformers?

Nope, not Transformers, good guess, try again!

I'm not even trying on the movie; that picture's just way too vague.

As to the gun though, nice work. I do like that you kept the nitefinder functionality wise, but the only reason I would still choose the cyclops over this is cleanliness. Yes, you did it cleanly, but it still has the pump stuck to the side. Something tells me that this is far less awkward to pump though than something like the Cyclops.

Yes I am putting the dart in the 9/16. The smaller 17/32 Brass is only to make sure the dart will not get sucked back up into the gun. The 19/32 brass was just laying around and cuts the space down between the PVC and the 9/16 brass.

Sorry for the confusion.

How long is the piece of 17/32" and the 9/16"?

Do you ram the dart all the way down the 9/16"?

What are your darts weighted with?

How much lubricant did you use?

Is the spring the [k26] like it should be?

Alrighty, so, I just spent an hour or two testing pretty much every dart/barrel fit/weight/length that I possibly could. Here were my results.

Mile High Black:
12" PETG:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 80'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 73'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 84'

9" PETG:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 85'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 84'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 80'

12" 9/16" Brass:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 96'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 80'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 73'



Black Sunshine Foam:
12" PETG:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 75'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 56' (Bad Dart?)
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 85'

9" PETG:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 90'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 76' (Same bad dart)
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 111' (Best shot)

12" 9/16" Brass:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 81'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 64' (Again, bad dart)
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 98'



Swift Nerf:
12" CPVC:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 53'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 79'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 101'

9" CPVC
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 86'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 87'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 99'



Mod Man:
12" CPVC:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 98'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 51' (Fired this dart like 3 times. Got bad ranges every time)
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 90'

9" CPVC
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 93'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 95'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 73'



McMaster:
12" CPVC:
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 79'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 87'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 108'

9" CPVC
-1/4" Steel Slingshot weight; 90'
-3/0 Fishing Weight; 90'
-CS Felt/Washer tip; 94'


As you can see, very few even broke 100, no matter what dart, weight, or barrel I was using.

I was told after I posted the original post to add some more lube. That was done before these range tests. I also re-did the e-tape around the bushing in the front of the blaster, and it's nice and solid.

Seal is good, plunger does not seem to be slowing down when fired, weather's decent out, I'm not short (5'11"-6'ish), spring is the [k26], like it's supposed to be. I'm at a loss.

Koree, I'll try it, but really, in a war situation, I don't want to be running around with 16" of barrel out the front of my blaster.

If anyone could offer some help, that would be awesome. I just can't figure out what the problem is.

Ok, I've tried, from what I can tell, every possible method of solving this problem, and yet, to no avail.

My +bow's ranges have been on the low end since I recieved it (90-100 ft.). The bow was made by RyanMcnumbers, and was one of his personal +bows, and he vouched for it hitting at range. My original dart/barrel fit was mile high black slug style darts in OMC's thick walled PETG, 12" barrels. No good. However, I had used a silicon spray lube before I put it together. I found out that that could enlarge the rubber washer, so I started from scratch with a new rubber washer. I tried another lube, but then decided it was too thick, and that was the cause for the continuing bad ranges. Now, I'm using a bit of silicon o-ring grease, which I've heard is the correct stuff. Still no good. Then, I heard swift nerf foam in CPVC would yeild good results. Well, I tried, and again, no good. It worked for like a shot or two, but it must've been a lucky dart, because since, I haven't been able to hit past 100. I've used multiple dart/barrel combos, lengths, etc. and I have the same results over and over.

The odd part is though, is that with an RSCB and either of the above dart/barrel combos, I'm still hitting above 90 consistently (6 shot RSCB).

I've had no luck with this gun, and if someone could give me a reason why this could be happening, and help me finally solve this, I would very much appreceate it.

How heavy are your darts? What are they weighted with? If they're too light they won't go as far as they should, the +bow has a ton of power, so it needs heavier darts. With the rscb, the darts are receiving a little less "oomph" so the lighter weight is not as big of an issue, so you're getting good ranges.

1/4" Steel Slingshot weights with the swiftnerf.

On the Mile High, it's CS style (Washers + felt tip). Both of which should be heavy enough.

Ok, I've tried, from what I can tell, every possible method of solving this problem, and yet, to no avail.

My +bow's ranges have been on the low end since I recieved it (90-100 ft.). The bow was made by RyanMcnumbers, and was one of his personal +bows, and he vouched for it hitting at range. My original dart/barrel fit was mile high black slug style darts in OMC's thick walled PETG, 12" barrels. No good. However, I had used a silicon spray lube before I put it together. I found out that that could enlarge the rubber washer, so I started from scratch with a new rubber washer. I tried another lube, but then decided it was too thick, and that was the cause for the continuing bad ranges. Now, I'm using a bit of silicon o-ring grease, which I've heard is the correct stuff. Still no good. Then, I heard swift nerf foam in CPVC would yeild good results. Well, I tried, and again, no good. It worked for like a shot or two, but it must've been a lucky dart, because since, I haven't been able to hit past 100. I've used multiple dart/barrel combos, lengths, etc. and I have the same results over and over.

The odd part is though, is that with an RSCB and either of the above dart/barrel combos, I'm still hitting above 90 consistently (6 shot RSCB).

I've had no luck with this gun, and if someone could give me a reason why this could be happening, and help me finally solve this, I would very much appreceate it.

This would generally not need to be asked, but which end are you putting the dart in? You said in the 9/16"?

Also, one more thing. The first catch notch gets caught on the spring once in a while. The gun locks up, and it refuses to prime. Anyone have a solution for that?

Are you sure your spring is centered at the back of the plunger tube?

It is when I put it in. Then it begins to move offcenter, to the point where it will occasionally get caught.

Damn, Koree was right. Huh. Well, 16" of CPVC + Swift nerf or McMaster foam = Awesome for a +bow, apparently. I'm consistently hitting over 100 with that combo. If someone could solve the problem with the other dart/barrels though, that'd be cool.

Also, one more thing. The first catch notch gets caught on the spring once in a while. The gun locks up, and it refuses to prime. Anyone have a solution for that?

*Edit* I also had a hilarious thought, now that we are making other nerf blasters into crossbows... when will someone make an actual Nerf Crossbow, crossbow powered?

I don't know when...but I smell a bow-powered Ellen on its way.

Also, great work as always, I may apply this to my pumpbow if I get the chance to go out this weekend and get the materials.

Hey, as a token of solidarity, you want an NF, gratis? We gotta support one another.

PM me...I can't possibly turn down a nitefinder

If you make it up to a Canadian war there will be a blastfire waiting for you.

^One thing that I very much hope to do in the near future. Thanks a lot man. We'll see 'bout that one. By the way, FA...

...I don't know if you recognize those longshot remains...

Keep in mind, guys, I just copied and pasted this from the Trading section, so it's more trade-oriented.

Long time no post...it's been awhile. I'd just like to take a moment to give you all an idea of what's been going on in my life for the past year plus, and why I've been so inactive, for those who don't already know. On the Friday before Christmas two Christmas's ago (the 19th of December, I believe it was), I lost my house along with everything in it to a fire. My family, my pets and I were all that made it out unscathed, other than a few lucky breaks with several cherished belongings passed down from my great-grandmother as well as our many photo-albums filled with pictures from family events throughout the years. This loss included the entirety of my nerf collection. Not only does this mean guns, but spare parts, tools, modding materials, darts, etc. were all gone. As it was a total loss, we decided to rebuild, and we rebuilt the same house from the ground up (appart from the foundation, which remained intact). Although there are some differences and everything's obviously new, the structure and floorplan of the house are almost identical. We moved back in just before Thanksgiving this past November. In the meantime we lived at a rental house nearby where I had essentially no area to mod, limited tools, and limited time with all that was going on. It was hard, but life goes on, and you get through it. I'm really, to be totally honest, just happy to have my family. The fire started as a result of a rusted out cap on the bottom of the chimney, in conjunction with dry leaves, a dry night, and a spark (or so we believe). It happened at 10:30 PM or so, and we were all home, awake, about to go to sleep. The fire wasn't put out well into the morning hours, and at that point, it was too late. Throughout the time in the rental house I did modify several blasters, prepped for apoc, etc. I also attended a BCNO during that time period, so I have plenty of blasters, and now that I've found my darts, things are shaping up nerf-wise. I still though, unfortunately, lost all of my spare parts, tools, and many blasters that I, and others, put a lot of work into. Fellows, the fallen:














All of the above were spared to some degree, leaving melted remains behind. Everything in my bedroom was gone entirely, including my crossbow, other SNAPs, Plusbow, etc. In some of the cases above, actually, most notably my SNAPbow, you're seeing it's "good side." It didn't want me to take a picture of its bad side. These remains are all for sale if there are any crazies out there interested in some modern art .

Now, I'd like to address another thing. There are a small group of individuals out there who questioned the authenticity, the truth to the tragedy that my family and I underwent, stating that I used it as an "excuse" to get out of things, to not hold up on transactions that I may have been involved in. This is, for lack of a better word, bullshit. Someone who would fake what I went through in order to cop out on obligations they've made is a horrible, horrible person. Something like this is not something you make up "for funzies." So those of you who were "calling bullshit" on me, and you know who you are, I hope you feel like ass holes. That's all on that.

Keep in mind, gents, this isn't a search for sympathy, just a conformation for those of you who were unaware as to the reasons for my absence or the nature of what happened to me last year. I will be posting this in off-topic as well, intentionally as it belongs there as well.

As for the second portion of this "sales thread," if any of you have any of those "spare parts," that I mentioned earlier that you may be willing to part with for little to nothing, I could really use them.

I also posted several videos to this channel throughout the time at the rental house discussing it all. I also will be posting videos as my workstation begins to come together and other assorted nerf-videos, including a tour of the new house.

So yeah guys, post here, PM me, whateva...Nice posting again

Ok, well many people talk about guns going off on them because of weak catches. Well, while I was running tests to see what was wrong with my singled LS I put my finger in the T to see if anything was lodged in there. The catch gave up on me. Lets just say that the pipe made a connection with the coupler and that I'm not writing this message with that finger. Also, some of my LS may have a blood-red color scheme.

This is just a message to everyone, saying TAKE PRECAUTIONS before you start experimenting with these things. Not that I could have prevented that in any way, but I could have used something more practical than my finger. I'm so naive.

Have fun nerfin safely,

~chris~

I think this is important in a way. While it was a stupid idea to stick your finger in the middle of a singled longshot's breech, it's a stupid idea that many people have. This would be one of my main problems with singled longshots. Safety issue. At some point, your catch will fail, and your finger will be toast.

I think the message of all these threads popping up is just be careful. Yes, shit happens, but you can try to make sure it doesn't. Not every accident needs its own thread, but yes, safety is important when modding or using nerf blasters.


And Vacc, not trying to disagree with you, because I completely agree. Having a gun primed while it's open is asking for a disaster, but this can happen even with the gun closed, which is why I hate singled LS's so much. Every time you load a dart into one, you risk your finger. He probably just tried to stick his finger in while the gun was still closed and primed to check, and the catch disengaged on him. I used to have one that slipped on me. My finger wasn't there, thank god, but after that, I never used it again.

Also why would I want to modify it over a normal SM5K?
The sweet mother fucking stock on the back!
It's so comfy and definitely comparable to an X-bow stock.

Yes, yes it is. The stock on these things is amazing. I'm lucky enough to own one, but I've also owned an x-bow, and I must say that they are comperable. On that note though, there is also the fact that it's its own piece of the shell, meaning you can detatch it and put it on any SM5k, which is what I plan to do with mine (Fix up my 5k, and when I use it, use the ST9k stock on it).

they're toys with the intention of being played with. Sometimes those toys will cost lots of money, but they're still toys with the same intentions.

I just wanted to second this. Unless you got it for some low price and were going to re-sell it and make a huge profit, I entirely agree.

Gotta side with Talio on this one. Who knows what kind of PV (Production Value) you'll get from a bunch of kids trying to wield camcorders as well as their blasters. I guess still have everybody film their wars but don't use the SOF name on a potential crapfest.

Potential is the key word there though. Why not give it a shot? Hand the camera to someone who knows how to use it or someone who has taped wars before. Someone coming to APOC out of those masses of people has to have some kinda awesome video camera or a dad who does, or something. I think we could, as a community, definitely make the documentary part work.

Sorry to hear that the trip's off, guys. I'm just at my beginning year in the hobby though, so I have a long time to go when hopefully the economy will shape up a bit and you guys can get over here.

It seems as if your force is primarily coming from beneath that side, even though it is drawn as a diagonal. Personally, I would recommend the vertical support struts. Yes, they are smaller, but that provides them with less of a chance of breaking. Also, that would cushion more of the force that you have drawn.

Personally, I'd go with a completely different design. Will edit the pic in shortly.

Personally, I'd go with OMC's suggestion. I'd say "sounds delicious," but something tells me people are hunting for sigs in this thread already.

Second choice though, I would go with tantum, but the problem is is that some of the struts would get to the point where they would not provide any structural support from that angle (The ones towards the top). Due to those dimensions, the support struts towards the top if they all extend from the vertex that tantum dEffeminateted, would not provide very much if any support. Out of the options, I'd personally go with A, or a combination of both, like mine.

Good point about the gun hit though. I'd just barrel tap with your barrel. This adds too much surface area.

You could use the same material used for +bow plunger rods. It's ligthweight, and would most likely be sufficiant strength-wise. How large is this structure? Dimensions would help.

Something like that would be your best bet. The triangular structures give you a ton of support, but I'm not quite sure if you're willing to go that in depth into it. I highlighted each area (Triangles facing each direction), and the green are the vertical support struts I had said would be the best. Don't necessarily take my word on it, but I think this would be your best bet.

But yeah, are you killing someone with this? I mean, the barrel tap's more of a mercy rule...not meant to kill someone with.

In engineering terms, if the strength is in the edges, then the appropriate rule is to triangulate. Only diamondback's suggestion actually does that, though it's rather excessive about it. Your best bet, really, is to run a rib from the middle of each side, to the middle of each other side, for a total of three ribs, subdividing the original triangle into four.

Good call. Yeah, mine was a bit excessive...but like bob said, it's the same concept he's talking about. I like this better though; it's far more simple and would do the job.

But right now, this is my new project. The "2k of doom".

Pics...

Still got work to do, but it's coming along quite nice.

Damn Ryan. Stop, stop now...I need to finish mine first...

What is it taht you used though to fill in around the base of the petg?

Also, is that a rubber washer you used there? That was what I was planning to do to mine, suggested to me by a friend. Did you just like, sand the entire back part flat before aplication of the washer? (minus the gears of course).

I'm having a little trouble with the seal. The washers (which are 1/8 in thickness) are not making a good seal with the tank. Any suggestions on how to fix it? I could not find any washers with a different thickness.

I suggest using foam for the seal. I had the same problem.

17/32" brass FTW...

I really need to get around to explaining my method...

I'm curious as to why the longshot is being converted into yellow, while the raider is being released as blue as part of the n-strike line. I'm guessing they'll re-color that at some point too. The ten-shot does look sick, and excitingly reminicent of he SM1k. However, to whoever said the pump would have to be very small, making it possiby a springer, the pump could run through the middle of the turet, allowing it to extend all the way to the back of the gun. Also, on the capture the flag pistols, the second "barrel" seems to be more of a ammo holder. I'm still skeptical as to whether those pistols will be pump or reverse plunger slide priming mech designs. The plus shaped looking bar could be simply for looks, rather than be part of a pump.

First of all, thank you, wisdom. I think there needed to be a kick in the ass around here. Honestly though, it's ashame, because after all the work you put into that little speech of yours, I can almost guarenty nothing will change. There will still be bans, new members pissing off the admins, and the admins doing their best to put up with it. I mean, that'd be awesome if it did change, but I honestly doubt it entirely.

Second, nerfkid, while sunshine's a great member and all, he's not an admin.

Also, I hope this topic isn't deleted, even if it is closed. This message must be heard. Again though, it's ashame that people don't know this before they get validated, because they should. The Code of Conduct is easy to access, and I think through all the admins' posts banning people, closing topics, etc., people should kind of get the hint without needing this...but if this helps, I am by all means for it.

I would be careful about your connection between the spring and the washer. If that were to fail, it could go from harmless dart shooting mine to a steel washer to the side of the face.

Hehe...I've had one of these since I don't know when. It's been sitting on the shelf in my basement NIB waiting for something to be done to it. Now that I know it has potential, I might take a crack at it. Definitely post your findings once you get going on it.

Apoc was great! Thanks to Langley, VACC, the LGLF, and TED. Had a great time.

What did Ted do? Is that just because he's looking studly as ever? + for that!

1 / 10:15 - 10:50 / Deathmatch
2 / 11:05 - 11:40 / U3 Objective
3 / 11:55 - 12:30 / Full Roster Deathmatch
4 / 12:45 - 1:20 / Deathmatch - U3 Objective
5 / 1:35 - 2:10 / 4-Team Deathmatch - U3 Objectives
6 / 2:25 - 3:00 / Deathmatch - U3 Objective
7 / 3:15 - 3:50 / 4-Team Deathmatch
8 / 4:05 - 4:40 / Full Roster Deathmatch
9 / 4:55 - 5:30 / Deathmatch

Depending on how much I enjoy the first Objective game mode, I may or may not (probably will) want to play more throughout the day. Really, I don't care all too much about round schedule, I just want to shoot people. I may have one guest with me, who doesn't currently have computer access to confirm his attendance. 700 darts down...seriously, people, if you're freaking out about darts, see here.They're super duper easy to make, and work fantastically. Looking forward to seeing y'all on the 6th. I'll also have lots of guns to sell, so bring yo monies.

Throw me down as a maybe.

I'm looking forward to this. I was feeling a little lacking of wars 'round this time.

Diamondback and Parkway on TEAM OMC, ALL DAY!

Parkway isn't related to diamondback.

Nope. But Whitemoonlight and I may be able to swing being on team OMC. At least once or twice (or all day), for ol' time's sake. It will be legendary.

My brother and I will be there. Doubt he remembers his log-in...frankly, I'm surprised I remember mine. I will bring plenty of cornstarch.

Sorry, but it's been done before.

Yeah? Well, so have nitefinder coupler mods, but there have been a hundred or so writeups on them. There are differences between the two writeups as well. This is a NERF arrowstorm, and his ranges are better.

Personally, I think you did a pretty good job, especially compared to the last one. No offence, but it wasn't the prettiest looking thing in the world.

Nice mod but i looks like you should move the pump mech up so that you can hold the gun easier, and that way you could use the actual trigger instead of the wire in the back, otherwise nice mod.

I agree with Basilisk here. It looks a tad awkward to hold. You may want to go for a more "Cyclops" approach (See pointblank's entry in the contest), which would allow you to fire from the original trigger, have a full grip on the handle, and still have the same function you're going for here. Nice idea though; my brother is planning something similar, but maintaining the function of the disk shot.

I've found that a good way to revive older valves such as the one at the end of the 2k tank is to spray it with a silicon lubricant. The one thing you want to make sure of is that it's a rubber safe lubricant and won't damage the valve. But that should breathe some life into your valve. Try the other method too though, I've never tried it, but it seems as if it should work.

By the way, if you choose to spray the valve with silicon lubricant, just be careful, because that's what your first few shots are going to smell like.

Would you mind taking a picture of the rear of the trigger (Where it connects to the firing pin)? From the back side though. Your problem may be the firing pin slipping through the trigger, so yes, you're pulling the trigger back, but the pin is not coming with it. There is enough friction though to pull it back when it's only pressurized with 1-2 pumps, but not enough when you've pumped more than that. I'd need a picture of the back though to determine this. Most 2ks, well, all that I've seen, wouldn't have this problem because the metal pin has a raised area on the back that stops that orange piece from falling off.

You'll have to really search to find a check valve at a normal store. An auto parts store would be a good place to look. I personally get mine on eBay. Cheap and easy.

Auto parts? Why? Pet stores, you can, but they tend to be a bit weak.

Definitely go with a mcmaster check valve, keep it close to the pump, and you're good to go.

Many things come into play when you're deciding barrel length for this blaster:
-Turret-Plunger tube seal
-Plunger head-Plunger tube seal
-Lubrication
-Spring power
-Dart-barrel fit

Therefore, it's hard to say basically, the worse all of those things are (Spring, lube, and seals), the shorter barrels you should have, because you simply will not get enough air output to use 12" barrels. Also, if your darts are too tight or too loose, you may have a problem with long barrels. My recommendation though is start out with 12" barrels, gooped and everything, test it out, and then, if necessary, you can cut down the barrels while already mounted (Just run the whole turret (just the ends of the barrels, obviously) through a bandsaw). Take it down by 1" incriments until you find a length that suits your blaster well.

I'm up for it. Depends on my parents. Mark me down as a maybe.

Almost a definite. Throw me + 2 down as a maybe though, because I can't say for sure yet. I really hope to get to this one, considering I'm only 25 minutes away.

Sorry guys, I'm out for this one. Day before easter, family's coming up, stuff to get ready. Have fun...wish I wasn't missing out...